Alexei Volkov
Polyester is a plastic made from oil, and it is estimated that about 49% of the world's clothing is made from it. Recycled polyester, or rPET, is created by collecting, sorting, washing, and breaking down PET, usually in the form of single-use plastic bottles, into small chips, which are then melted and reformed into new polyester fibres. This process can be done mechanically or chemically, with mechanical recycling being the most common form as it is simpler and more easily sourced. While recycled polyester gives a second life to a material that is not biodegradable, there are concerns about the amount of plastic fibre discharged when these garments are washed, as well as the closed-loop nature of plastic bottle recycling being disrupted.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Can polyester be made from recycled plastic bags? | Yes, recycled polyester is made from single-use plastic bottles. |
| How is it made? | Recycled polyester is created either mechanically or chemically by collecting PET, usually in the form of used plastic bottles, and sorting, washing and breaking the material down to be spun into yarn. |
| Is it sustainable? | Recycled polyester gives a second life to a material that’s not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in a landfill or the ocean. However, it cannot be recycled indefinitely and can release microplastics during washing. |
| How does it compare to virgin polyester? | Recycled polyester is almost the same as virgin polyester in terms of quality, but its production requires 59% less energy and reduces CO2 emissions by up to 29%. |
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What You'll Learn
Recycled polyester is made from plastic bottles
Polyester is a man-made synthetic material composed of polyethylene terephthalate, or PET, the most common type of plastic in the world. Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre. While polyester is not a sustainable textile option, recycled polyester gives a second life to a material that is not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in a landfill or the ocean.
The process of creating recycled polyester from plastic bottles can be confusing to consumers, as the common understanding of the word 'polyester' is 'a type of fabric'. However, scientifically speaking, the word 'polyester' is an umbrella term for a group of materials that are polymers containing esters in their building blocks. Polyester fabric is made from the same material as PET bottles, and recycled polyester is often made specifically from these bottles.
While recycled polyester made from PET bottles has a lower environmental impact than virgin polyester, there are still concerns about its sustainability. Plastic bottles can be recycled repeatedly into new bottles in a closed-loop system, but when they are made into clothing, they are removed from this loop and can no longer be recycled. Additionally, the infrastructure for collecting, sorting, and processing recycled textiles is limited in many parts of the world, making it difficult to scale up clothing recycling efforts.
Furthermore, garments made from recycled polyester can release microplastics during washing, contributing to plastic pollution. To mitigate this, consumers can minimise washing these garments and use filter washing bags to prevent microplastic pollution. While recycled polyester may not be a perfect solution, it is a step towards reducing the strain on the planet's resources and encouraging the development of more sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
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Recycled polyester is not as sustainable as it seems
While recycled polyester may seem like a sustainable alternative to virgin polyester, it is not without its drawbacks. Firstly, it is important to note that polyester is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. This means that the majority of clothes made from polyester are derived from crude oil. While recycling plastic seems like a positive step towards sustainability, the process of recycling polyester has its limitations and environmental impacts.
One of the main issues with recycled polyester is that it is not a closed-loop system. In a closed-loop system, old products are recycled into new products of the same type, such as bottles into bottles or textiles into textiles, over and over again. However, when plastic is recycled into polyester clothing, it is removed from this closed-loop system and can no longer be recycled into new products of the same type. This creates more waste and disrupts the closed-loop process that plastic undergoes to be recycled. Additionally, actual polyester clothing is incredibly challenging to recycle, further contributing to waste generation.
Another concern with recycled polyester is the release of microplastics during washing. Studies have shown that each cycle of a washing machine can release hundreds of thousands of plastic fibres into the environment. These microplastics contribute to water pollution and can have detrimental effects on marine life. While solutions such as filter washing bags can help capture these microplastics, they do not eliminate the problem entirely.
Furthermore, the recycling process for polyester can degrade the fibre's strength over time. This often requires the addition of virgin polyester to maintain the quality of the recycled material. Chemical recycling, which restores polyester to its original monomer state, is a more effective method. However, it is more expensive and less widely used, making it a less viable option for many manufacturers.
Lastly, it is important to address the issue of greenwashing in the fashion industry. Fast-fashion brands often market their use of recycled polyester as a sustainable alternative without addressing the broader issues of their production practices. The Remake 2024 fashion sustainability report revealed that out of 52 companies assessed, the average accountability score for making sustainable and ethical changes was only 14 out of 150 points. This highlights the need for more transparent and ethical practices in the fashion industry, as well as the importance of consumers being critical of greenwashing claims.
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Recycling plastic reduces the need for crude oil extraction
Polyester, derived from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), is the most common type of plastic in the world and is used to make about 49% of the world's clothing. Recycling plastic bottles into polyester is known as textile-to-textile recycling, and it gives a second life to plastic that would otherwise end up in landfills or the ocean. However, the process of mechanical recycling, which breaks down plastic into small chips that are then melted and reformed into fibres, degrades the fibre's strength over time, often requiring the addition of virgin polyester.
The recycling of plastic reduces the need for crude oil extraction in several ways. Firstly, recycled polyester requires 59% less energy to produce than virgin polyester, resulting in a 32% reduction in CO2 emissions. Secondly, by utilising existing plastic, recycled polyester prevents the need for extracting new crude oil and natural gas from the earth to create more plastic. This reduction in crude oil extraction contributes to a decrease in greenhouse gas emissions and other pollutants associated with fossil fuel usage.
While recycling plastic into polyester has environmental benefits, there are also challenges and concerns. One issue is the release of microscopic plastic fibres, known as microplastics, during the washing of recycled polyester garments. According to a study by Plymouth University, each cycle of a washing machine could release over 700,000 plastic fibres into the environment. To mitigate this, the use of filter washing bags during laundry can prevent the shedding of microplastics.
Another challenge is the closed-loop system disruption caused by using recycled plastic bottles to create clothing. In a closed-loop system, plastic bottles are recycled into new bottles. However, when these bottles are instead recycled into clothing, they are removed from the loop and cannot be recycled again, ultimately ending up in landfills. Additionally, the process of chemical recycling, which restores polyester to its original monomer state, is more expensive and less widely used than mechanical recycling.
Despite these challenges, major brands are recognising the benefits of recycled polyester. For example, Adidas has pledged to use only recycled polyester in its products by 2024, and Patagonia has been utilising recycled polyester since 1993. These commitments demonstrate a growing awareness of the environmental impact of crude oil extraction and the potential for recycled polyester to reduce this impact.
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Washing polyester clothes releases microplastics
Polyester is a synthetic fibre, accounting for about 60% of the total world fibre production. It is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. The washing of polyester clothing has been identified as a significant source of microplastic pollution.
During the washing process, polyester garments release microfibres, which are too small to be filtered out by wastewater filtration systems. These microfibres eventually make their way into environmental waterways, contributing to the growing problem of microplastic pollution. Studies have shown that a single garment can release more than 1900 fibres per wash cycle, with almost all garments emitting more than 100 fibres per litre of wastewater.
To reduce the release of microfibres, it is recommended to use less alkaline detergents (liquid or gel), fabric softeners, and other finishing agents. Airing out clothes after each use can also reduce the number of washes and, consequently, the release of microfibres. Additionally, using a Cora Ball, a Guppy bag, or installing a washing machine filter can help capture microfibres and reduce their presence in wastewater.
While recycled polyester gives a second life to non-biodegradable materials, it is important to note that even recycled polyester garments can release microplastics during washing. The issue of microplastics in washing machine wastewater has gained legislative attention, with France enacting laws to include filters in new washing machines from 2025.
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Recycling methods: mechanical vs chemical
Polyester, derived from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), is the most common type of plastic in the world. Recycled polyester, or rPET, is made by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre. For instance, five recycled water bottles can yield enough fibre for one t-shirt.
While recycling plastic seems like a sustainable solution, rPET has its advantages and challenges. Recycled polyester gives new life to non-biodegradable materials, reducing the extraction of crude oil and natural gas to make new plastic. However, the process of washing recycled polyester clothing can release microplastics into the environment.
To understand the trade-offs of recycling methods, let's explore the differences between mechanical and chemical recycling:
Mechanical Recycling
Mechanical recycling involves breaking down plastic into small chips, which are then melted and reformed into fibres. This process can be repeated between 3 to 7 times for most plastics before the fibre's strength degrades. The resulting plastic chips can vary in colour, ranging from crispy white to creamy yellow, making colour consistency challenging. Mechanical recycling requires uncontaminated waste streams and plastics that can be recycled, limiting its applicability. It is also a costly process, as the recycled plastic is more expensive than virgin plastic. However, it preserves the molecular structure of the plastic and does not require toxic chemicals, making it less energy-intensive and environmentally hazardous than chemical recycling.
Chemical Recycling
Chemical recycling, on the other hand, splits the polymer chains of plastic to create crude oil, naphtha, or fuels. This process restores the polyester to its original monomer state, allowing it to be reused like virgin polyester. Chemical recycling can handle a wider range of plastics, including contaminated waste streams, and produces a virgin-quality material suitable for sensitive applications like food-contact packaging. However, it is more expensive and less widely used, and energy-intensive, requiring toxic chemicals that can generate environmental waste. Additionally, the resulting product is often black-grey, limiting the colour options for new plastic products.
In summary, both mechanical and chemical recycling play important roles in the circular economy. Mechanical recycling is currently more prevalent due to its established infrastructure, while chemical recycling is gaining traction for its ability to handle a broader range of plastics and produce higher-quality recycled materials. However, challenges remain in terms of cost, energy consumption, and environmental impact for both methods.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, polyester can be made from recycled plastic bags. However, it is more common for polyester to be made from recycled plastic bottles.
Recycled polyester is created either mechanically or chemically. The process involves collecting, sorting, washing, and breaking down the plastic bags into smaller pieces, which are then melted and reformed into fibres or spun into yarn.
Using recycled plastic bags to make polyester gives a second life to plastic that is not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in landfills or the ocean. It also reduces the need for extracting crude oil and natural gas from the earth to make new plastic.
One drawback is that the recycling process degrades the fibre's strength over time, often requiring the addition of virgin polyester to maintain quality. Additionally, garments made from recycled polyester can release microplastics during washing, contributing to plastic pollution in the environment.
Some companies that use recycled polyester in their products include H&M Group, Adidas, Patagonia, and Audi. These companies aim to reduce their environmental impact and promote sustainability.
