Ethan Clarke
Laying plastic grass is not a simple task. It requires a lot of preparation and the right tools. The first step is to plan out the area to be covered, ensuring that cables and water pipes are below the digging depth. Then, remove the existing turf and excavate to a depth of around 75mm (about 3 inches) below the desired finished lawn height. If there is no existing hard edge or wall, install a retaining edge. Spread your sub-base across the area and compact it using a roller or compactor plate. Apply a layer of sand and smooth it out to fill in any gaps. Add a weed membrane to prevent weeds from growing through your lawn, and pin it in place. Lay the grass out, ensuring that the pile direction is facing towards your house or main viewpoint. Trim any excess grass and apply kiln sand to the turf.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Installation | Artificial grass should be installed by a professional. However, if you choose to install it yourself, you will need basic tools and helping hands. |
| Base | The base should be prepared properly and be smooth, level, and clear of debris. It can be concrete, old slabs, soil, or a combination of MOT type 1 and granite stone 6mm dust. |
| Turf | Remove the turf to a depth of 2-4 inches using a turf cutter or spade. |
| Edging | Install a timber edging to secure the grass. |
| Weed membrane | Lay a weed membrane to prevent weeds from growing through your lawn. |
| Sand | Apply a layer of sand and smooth it out to fill in gaps. |
| Joining pieces | If you have a big garden, you might need to join two pieces of artificial grass together. Ensure the fibres point the same way and the edges run parallel. |
| Trimming | Once positioned, trim the excess artificial grass. |
| Sand infill | Apply kiln sand to the turf using a blower, stiff brush, or lawn fertiliser spreader. |
Explore related products
What You'll Learn
Preparing the base
Before starting your project, plan out the area to be covered. Ensure that cables and water pipes are below the digging depth. Remove any existing turf to a depth of 2-4 inches (50mm-100mm) using a turf cutter or spade. If you're working with a large area, consider hiring a turf cutter to save time and effort. Remove any large stones, bricks, or other obstructions. If you're building a timber frame to fix the grass to, now is the time to construct it. Make sure that it doesn't sit higher than the final planned height of the grass.
Next, spread your sub-base across the area. The depth and material of your sub-base will depend on the type of soil beneath. For example, if you have clay soil with poor drainage, start by adding a 3-inch (75mm) layer of aggregate such as MOT Type 1. Use a rake to level it out and then compact it with a roller or vibrating plate compactor. Repeat this process with a layer of fine aggregate such as sharp sand or granite dust, raking and compacting to create a smooth surface. The total depth of your sub-base will depend on the height of the artificial turf and the type of soil. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for guidance. It's important to incorporate a slight camber in the base, so it slopes slightly towards the edges to encourage drainage.
Finally, install a layer of permeable weed membrane or landscaping fabric to prevent weeds from growing through your lawn. Overlap the edges of the membrane sheets by about 4 inches (100mm) to ensure weeds cannot penetrate. Some installers prefer to add this layer under the base, while others add it on top of the sub-base. Both methods produce the same results. At this point, you may also choose to add a layer of shock-absorbing material.
Plastic Fence Posts: Do They Break Down?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Installing an edging system
Firstly, you should plan out the area to be covered. Ensure that cables and water pipes are below the digging depth. Remove any existing turf to a depth of around 75mm (about 3 inches) below your desired finished lawn height. If there are no perimeters for the product to butt up against, install an edging system.
There are several options for edging systems, each with pros and cons. Timber is the most commonly used edging system as it is cost-effective, quick, and easy to install. However, steel edging systems are also quick and easy to install, can be shaped to form curves, and have a longer lifespan than timber. On the other hand, steel is far more expensive than timber. Another option is to use sleepers, which provide a fantastic edge restraint and add an interesting feature to your garden. They can be stacked to create raised beds and planted with attractive plants and shrubs.
If you are using timber edging, you can fix the grass using galvanized nails, providing a neat finish. To install timber edging, knock the edging into the soil with a hammer and a piece of wood, leaving around 3cm exposed. Apply 6mm of granite dust and use a piece of timber to drag the dust across the application area to smooth it out.
If you are using a different type of edging, such as Wonder Edge, you can glue it in place with turf glue or nail it down with turf nails. Simply connect the pieces, nail the edging in place, and get ready to lay and seam your turf.
Acid-Free Storage: Sterilite Plastic Boxes for Archiving
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Adding a sub-base
To begin, you must first excavate the existing soil. This is a critical step as the native soil will be replaced with the sub-base material. The depth of excavation can vary, but it is typically recommended to excavate to a depth of around 75mm (about 3 inches) below your desired finished lawn height.
The next step is to choose the right sub-base material. There are two main types of sub-base materials: crushed miscellaneous base (CMB) and decomposed granite (DG). CMB is a blend of recycled concrete, asphalt, and a sand-gravel mixture. It is easily compacted, less expensive, and provides better drainage. On the other hand, DG is granite rock that has weathered and fractured into small pieces, mixed with gravel, sand, and clay. It provides a smoother finish but is more costly.
Once you have chosen your sub-base material, spread it across the excavated area to a depth of approximately 50mm. It is important to ensure that the sub-base is thoroughly compacted. You can use a vibrating plate compactor or a roller to achieve this. If you are using a plate compactor, move in circles around the surface and compact both clockwise and counterclockwise for the best results.
After compacting the sub-base, you can add a layer of sand to fill in any gaps and bring it to the required height. At this point, you can also add a weed membrane to prevent weed growth and separate the sub-base from the earth below. Overlap the edges of the membrane to ensure weeds cannot penetrate through. You can use U-pins or galvanised nails to hold the membrane in place.
By following these steps, you will have successfully added a sub-base for your artificial grass, providing a strong and stable foundation for your new lawn.
Black Plastic Pipe: What is it Called and Why?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
$280
Laying the grass
Plan and Prepare the Area
Firstly, plan out the area to be covered, ensuring any cables and water pipes are below the digging depth. Remove any existing turf or grass to a depth of around 75mm (3 inches) using a turf cutter or spade. If you have a large garden, a turf cutter will make this process much easier. Remove any large stones, bricks, or other obstructions. If there are no perimeters for the product to butt up against, install an edging system. Treated timber edging is easy to fix the grass to and provides a neat finish.
Create a Smooth Base
It is important to create a smooth, level, and clear base. A combination of MOT type 1 and granite stone 6mm dust is recommended. If using sand, a depth of 10-15mm is advised. Use a roller or compactor plate to smooth out the base and fill in any gaps. For gardens with poor drainage, granite chippings of 10-12mm are recommended. If laying on concrete, ensure it is even and able to drain water correctly. An underlay can also be installed to provide extra cushioning and improve drainage.
Apply Weed Membrane
To prevent weeds from growing through your lawn, lay a layer of permeable weed membrane across the entire base. Overlap the edges by at least 30cm to prevent gaps, and pin the membrane to the edging. If you have pets, skip this step as the membrane can trap odours from urine.
Lay the Grass
Roll out the grass, ensuring it covers the entire area and overlaps by 50mm on all outside edges and between sections. If using multiple pieces, ensure the pile runs in the same direction and faces towards the house for the best aesthetic. Join the sections by lining them up, checking the pile direction, and creating a dry join. Then, roll out joining tape along the seam and apply adhesive. Carefully fold the grass back into place, avoiding the grass fibres touching the adhesive. Allow the adhesive to sit for 24 hours before walking on it.
Finishing Touches
Once the grass is in position, trim any excess. Apply kiln sand to the turf using a blower, stiff brush, or lawn fertiliser spreader. Around 6-8kg of sand per square metre is recommended. Brushing the pile before, during, and after this step will ensure a natural-looking finish.
HDPE Plastics: Are They BPA-Free?
You may want to see also
Explore related products
Applying kiln sand
Kiln sand is available in two grain sizes: #16 and #30. The smaller grain size (#30) is typically used for putting greens, while the larger grain size (#16) is standard for landscape applications. If you are installing artificial grass for the first time, using kiln sand is highly recommended as it is specifically designed for synthetic turf applications and will help improve the look and performance of your lawn.
To apply kiln sand, use a blower, stiff brush, or lawn fertiliser spreader. It is recommended to apply 6-8kg of sand per square metre of product, ensuring that the sand is evenly distributed across the turf. This step is vital to achieving a natural-looking finish and should be done on a dry day, preferably the same day as the lawn installation.
The sand will sit beneath the surface of the thatch, resting on the latex backing. As a result, you won't see the sand or walk on it, and it won't stick to your feet or your pets' paws. By using the recommended amount of sand infill, you will ensure the longevity and stability of your artificial grass installation.
Phthalate Testing: Plastic Box Handles, Necessary?
You may want to see also
