Alexei Volkov
Plastic laminate countertops are a popular choice for those looking to renovate their kitchen or bathroom on a budget. They are tough, durable, and come in a variety of colours and patterns. Installation can be done by purchasing a pre-manufactured countertop or building one from scratch. The process involves measuring the space, cutting the laminate to size, and adhering it to the surface using contact cement or adhesive. While it can be a DIY project, careful handling and specific tools are required to ensure a smooth and chip-free finish.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Approachable DIY project, but not for total newbies |
| Cost | Low |
| Durability | Tough and durable |
| Customisation | Available in many colours, patterns, and finishes |
| Tools | Laminate slitter, trim router, circular saw, utility knife, jigsaw, laminate roller, laminate trimmer, file, lacquer thinner, solvent, heat gun, router, tin snips, table saw, carbide-tipped blade, jig saw, tape, paintbrush, gloves, scrap wood, iron, rubber mallet, saw, scoring tool, straight edge, particleboard, MDF, screws, sink template, painter's tape, blue, drill, 1x scrap piece, wood dowels, rag, plastic sheets, laminate flush trimming bit, laminate file, sandpaper |
| Steps | Measure the space, cut the laminate to size, apply contact cement, smooth out rough edges, clean off excess glue, roll the laminate, trim the laminate, secure with screws, sand or file the cut, place the sink, cover the surface with tape, draw a pencil line, cut into the surface, iron on the end cap, finish trimming, apply sealant, clean with a damp cloth |
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What You'll Learn
Cutting the countertop
First, measure the layout of the tops of your cabinets, including the counter overhang. Plan for end caps at each appliance and wherever the countertop ends. If your countertop is L-shaped, you will need left and right miter pieces.
Next, measure the laminate pieces so they are slightly larger than needed, allowing for some excess that can be trimmed down. Mark your cutting lines with a straightedge. Cut any narrow strips first, using a laminate slitter, trim router, or utility knife. Then, rough-cut the large countertop pieces with a circular saw. Remember to protect the laminate surface with masking tape before cutting to prevent scratching and chipping.
After cutting the pieces, use a file designed for plastic laminate to smooth out any rough edges. File in a downward direction only, and clean off excess glue with lacquer thinner or the recommended solvent.
For the sink cutout, place the sink template on top of the counter and tape it in place. Drill holes in the corners, then draw a line connecting the holes with a straight edge. Cut the sides first, then cut the rest of the opening using a jigsaw.
Finally, trim the laminate to size using a laminate trimmer or a jig saw for curves. Remember to flex the laminate up and down to create a clean break along your cutting line.
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Using contact cement
Plastic laminate is a durable, reasonably priced, lightweight, and easy-to-work-with material for countertops. It resists stains and provides easy cleanup. The best adhesive for bonding plastic laminate is liquid contact cement.
When using contact cement, start by cleaning the back of the laminate with mineral spirits to get rid of any contaminants or dirt that could compromise the glue bond. Use compressed air or a shop vacuum to clean the substrate surface. Apply a thin, even coating of cement to both the substrate and the laminate using a foam paint roller. Ensure that you are working in a well-ventilated area or wear a vapor respirator, as contact cement produces fumes. Allow the adhesive surfaces to dry to the touch, which usually takes about 20 minutes.
Once the cement is dry, carefully align and join the two surfaces. Starting in the middle, remove the spacers one by one and press the laminate onto the substrate, working outward. Use a J-roller or a piece of 2 x 4 wrapped in a towel to flatten the laminate and remove any air bubbles. Roll the laminate from the center outwards to the edges. Be cautious when applying pressure near the edges of the unsupported plastic, as it is brittle and can crack easily.
If you are using contact cement on a porous material like particleboard or MDF, it is recommended to apply two coats of cement, allowing the first coat to dry completely before applying the second. This will ensure a strong bond.
Finally, trim off any overhanging plastic using a carbide laminate-trimming bit or a bearing-guided flush trim bit. Install the bit in your router and set the cutting depth accordingly. Feed the router clockwise around the outside of the workpiece to cut the laminate flush. Knock off the sharp edge carefully with a file when you're done.
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Trimming the laminate
Firstly, it is important to measure and cut the laminate pieces accurately. The laminate should be measured and cut to be about 1 inch larger than the required size. This will allow for some excess that can be trimmed down later. When cutting the laminate, use a sharp tool, such as a trim router, circular saw, utility knife, or a laminate slitter, to avoid chipping. Cut any narrow strips first, followed by the large countertop piece.
Once the laminate is in place and the contact cement is dry, you can begin trimming the excess. Use a router with a laminate flush trimming bit to trim off the excess laminate neatly. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, especially at the edges, to avoid breaking the excess laminate. If there are hard-to-reach areas, use tin snips or a laminate trimmer to cut away the excess.
After trimming, use a plastic laminate file to smooth out any rough edges and remove any remaining excess. Always file in a downward direction and use a file specifically designed for plastic laminate. Clean off any excess glue with a lacquer thinner or the solvent recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.
If you are applying an end cap, you will need to do some filing to shape it. You can either use pre-shaped and pre-glued iron-on end caps or cut and glue plastic laminate into place with contact cement. To apply the iron-on end caps, use a household iron on medium heat and iron the cap onto the end of the countertop with a back-and-forth motion. Tap the cap carefully with a rubber mallet, then finish trimming with a fine file, applying pressure only on the upstrokes.
Finally, remember to always handle the plastic laminate with care as it is brittle and can break easily when not supported on a countertop.
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Installing the sink
Installing a sink in a plastic laminate countertop requires careful measurement and cutting. Here is a step-by-step guide:
Prepare the Countertop:
Before installing the sink, prepare the laminate countertop by following the manufacturer's instructions for adhesive and bonding. Use a J-roller to roll the laminate and trim any excess material with a fine file, applying pressure only on the upstrokes. Ensure the cutout is supported to prevent breaking the edges.
Mark the Sink Cutout:
Place the sink or rangetop rim on the backside of the countertop, marking the outline of the rim with a pencil. This outline will serve as a guide for cutting the hole for the sink.
Cut the Sink Hole:
Using a jigsaw, cut the hole for the sink. Cut the hole 1/4" to 3/8" smaller than the marked line to ensure a snug fit. All cutout corners should have clean, chip-free radii. If using a laminate trimmer, remove excess laminate and file smooth, applying pressure only in the upstrokes.
Seal and Protect:
Apply two layers of heat-conductive aluminium tape around the cutout. Apply a bead of sealant to each mitered edge to protect the laminate from moisture. Remove any excess sealant from the sink area.
Install the Sink:
Set the sink into the opening to check the fit. Make any necessary adjustments and trimming to ensure the sink fits securely. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the sink, ensuring it is level and securely attached.
Finalize the Installation:
Once the sink is installed, check for any remaining rough edges and use a file designed for plastic laminate to smooth them out. Clean off any excess glue with a recommended solvent. Ensure you follow any care and maintenance guidelines provided by the manufacturer to protect your new laminate countertop and sink.
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Finishing the countertop
If you are adding a backsplash, repeat the process and then glue and screw the backsplash in place. You can also add an end cap for a more finished look than a straight cut. Measure the depth of your base cabinets and add an extra inch for notching. Manufacturers often supply pre-shaped and pre-glued iron-on end caps, but you can also cut and glue plastic laminate into place with contact cement. You will need to do some filing to shape the end caps, either way.
After the contact cement has dried, use a router with a laminate flush trimming bit to trim off the excess laminate at the edges. Use tin snips to cut any excess where the router can’t reach. Use a plastic laminate file to gently bevel and remove any roughness from the exposed edges of the laminate. Smooth out any rough edges with a file designed for plastic laminate, always filing in a downward direction. Clean off excess glue with lacquer thinner or the solvent recommended by your adhesive manufacturer.
Finally, to maintain the beauty of your new countertop, follow some simple care suggestions. Clean with a damp cloth or sponge and a mild soap or detergent. Avoid abrasive pads, cleaners, or powders. Use a cutting board to avoid surface damage from knives or sharp objects.
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Frequently asked questions
The standard size for countertops is 36 inches high x 25 inches wide. When installed, it should extend 1 to 1½ inches beyond the face of the base cabinets.
Laminate can be cut with a trim router, circular saw, utility knife or a laminate slitter.
The best way is to roll it in a 24-inch minimum roll and tie it with string.
The easiest way is to buy a pre-manufactured countertop, which is called a post-form countertop.
Clean with a dampened cloth or sponge, using mild soap or detergent.
