Sofia Martinez
The fashion industry has been transformed by an explosion in the use of inexpensive, petroleum-based materials. This shift has been aided by the successful rebranding of synthetic materials like plastic leather, once known as pleather, into trendy alternatives like vegan leather. This rebranding is a marketing strategy meant to imply environmental benefits. The Higg Index, an influential rating system introduced in 2011 by major fashion brands, assesses the environmental impact of fabrics and materials. However, the index has been criticised for favouring synthetic materials made from fossil fuels over natural ones, and for justifying the choices of fashion companies by portraying synthetics as the most sustainable option.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Influential system overseen by | Retailers and clothing makers |
| Petroleum-based synthetic ranked as | More environmentally sound than natural fibers |
| Examples of petroleum-based synthetic | "Vegan leather" |
| Production of garments made from polyester and other synthetics | Tripled since 2000 |
| Influential rating system | Higg Index |
| Introduced in | 2011 |
| Introduced by | Some of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers, led by Walmart and Patagonia |
| Purpose | Measure and ultimately help shrink the brand's environmental footprints |
| Ways to shrink environmental footprints | Cutting down on water used to produce clothes and shoes |
| Reining in the use of harmful chemicals | |
| Higg Index | Favors synthetic materials made from fossil fuels over natural ones like cotton, wool, or leather |
| Criticism of Higg Index | Used to portray the increasing use of synthetics as environmentally desirable |
| Sustainable Apparel Coalition | Runs the Higg Index and counts almost 150 brands as members, including H&M and Nike |
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What You'll Learn
The rebranding of plastic leather as 'vegan leather'
The rebranding of plastic leather as vegan leather has been a marketing masterstroke by the fashion industry. The term "vegan leather" suggests environmental virtue and has helped to transform the industry, with an explosion in the use of inexpensive, petroleum-based materials.
Vegan leather is a term that has been used since the 2010s to describe plastic fabric made to look like leather. It is also known as synthetic leather, faux leather, or pleather. The term "pleather" has fallen out of favour with consumers due to its negative connotation as a cheap imitator of leather.
The rebranding of plastic leather as vegan leather has been driven by an influential rating system called the Higg Index, which was introduced in 2011 by some of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers, including Walmart and Patagonia. The Higg Index assesses the environmental impact of fabrics and materials and strongly favours synthetic materials made from fossil fuels over natural ones like cotton, wool, or leather.
The Higg Index has been criticised by independent experts and representatives from the natural-fiber industries, who argue that it is being used to justify the increasing use of synthetic materials in the fashion industry. Despite these criticisms, the Higg Index has had a significant impact on the industry, with many brands and retailers adopting it to assess the environmental impact of their products.
Vegan leather is often made from polyurethane, a polymer that can be customised for any designer. It can also be made from sustainable materials such as pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit waste, and recycled plastic. Vegan leather is versatile and can be used for luxury handbags, shoes, lingerie, and clothing.
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The Higg Index's influence on the fashion industry
The Higg Index is a sustainability rating system introduced in 2011 by some of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers, including Walmart and Patagonia. The index, which is overseen by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), aims to quantify the sustainability impacts of apparel, footwear, and home textile products. It also seeks to reduce redundancy in measuring sustainability and drive business value through risk reduction and efficiency improvements.
The Higg Index provides a suite of tools, such as the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM), Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM), and Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM), that enable companies to assess their environmental and social impacts. These tools help designers and developers make more sustainable choices during the product development cycle, from prototyping to sourcing raw materials.
The index has been influential in the fashion industry, with over 24,000 organizations worldwide adopting it. It has helped raise the sustainability standards within the industry and encouraged companies to strive for continuous improvement. However, the Higg Index has also faced criticism. Some experts argue that it favors synthetic materials made from fossil fuels over natural textiles like cotton, wool, or leather. There are also concerns about the data used by the index, with allegations of poor data quality and a lack of transparency.
In response to these criticisms, the SAC has defended the Higg Index, stating that the data is scientifically and externally reviewed. They have also taken steps to address the concerns, such as suspending the consumer-facing portion of the index while they perform a review. Despite the controversy, the Higg Index has played a significant role in bringing attention to sustainability within the fashion industry and driving change from within.
Overall, the Higg Index has had a notable influence on the fashion industry by raising awareness about sustainability, providing tools for self-assessment, and encouraging companies to set goals for environmental improvement. While there are ongoing debates about the accuracy and transparency of the index, it has catalyzed important conversations and initiatives focused on making the fashion industry more sustainable.
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The environmental impact of synthetic materials
One of the major concerns with synthetic materials is their reliance on fossil fuels, such as petroleum and gas. The extraction and burning of fossil fuels contribute to biodiversity loss and have hazardous effects on the environment. Synthetic materials are also non-biodegradable, leading to an increase in waste. In 2018, clothing was reported to be the main source of waste in landfills, with 11 million tons of clothing waste ending up in landfills in the United States alone. The degradation of synthetic materials in landfills can contaminate ground and groundwater, causing further environmental damage.
The production of synthetic materials also has a significant environmental impact. The manufacturing process often involves the use of harmful chemicals and dyes, which can pollute water sources. The water footprint of polyester production, for example, can be as high as 71,000 cubic meters per tonne of fiber. Additionally, synthetic materials often shed microplastics when washed, contributing to plastic pollution in waterways.
The fashion industry has attempted to address the environmental impact of synthetic materials by introducing alternative names and ranking systems. Synthetic leather, once known as "pleather," has been rebranded as "vegan leather," suggesting environmental virtue. The Higg Index, introduced in 2011 by major fashion brands, ranks petroleum-based synthetics higher than natural fibers in terms of sustainability. However, these efforts have been criticized by independent experts and representatives from natural-fiber industries, who argue that they justify the increasing use of synthetic materials without considering their full environmental impact.
While synthetic materials have revolutionized outdoor gear and fashion, it is crucial to consider their entire life cycle, including production, use, and disposal, to understand their true environmental cost. Innovative textiles made from bio-based materials, such as spider silk, seaweed, and milk, show promise as more sustainable alternatives to petroleum-based synthetics.
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The Sustainable Apparel Coalition's role in the Higg Index
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a coalition of stakeholders across the apparel industry, including brands, retailers, manufacturers, industry affiliates, trade associations, and environmental nonprofits, among others. The coalition was founded in 2009 by Walmart and Patagonia with the goal of developing a common approach to measuring sustainability in the apparel industry.
The SAC's main focus is on building and developing the Higg Index, a standardized supply chain measurement tool for all industry participants to understand the environmental, social, and labor impacts of making and selling their products. The Higg Index is a suite of self-assessment tools that deal with facility, brand, and product, and it asks practice-based, qualitative questions to gauge environmental sustainability performance and drive behavior for improvement. It is designed for members from every segment of the industry, and by entering data about their business' impact areas, SAC members generate standardized performance scores that can be shared with current and future supply chain partners.
The Higg Index has been criticized by some for using poor data and a non-transparent approach, resulting in potentially misleading information on which fiber is more sustainable. However, the SAC has defended the index, stating that the data is scientifically and externally reviewed.
The SAC has also been proactive in addressing concerns raised about its transparency program, stating that it is "grateful for the collaboration and productive discussions" and that it is working to address the issues raised.
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The benefits of natural materials over synthetics
The fashion industry has seen an explosion in the use of inexpensive, petroleum-based materials, aided by the rebranding of synthetic materials like plastic leather into environmentally-friendly alternatives such as "vegan leather". However, it is important to note that natural materials offer several advantages over synthetics.
Firstly, natural materials are renewable and biodegradable. While synthetic materials can be engineered to have enhanced properties, they often contribute to environmental pollution and health concerns due to their non-biodegradable nature. Natural materials, on the other hand, are less likely to cause long-lasting waste in the environment as they break down over time.
Secondly, natural materials are generally safer for human health. Synthetic materials, especially those made from plastics, can contain harmful chemicals and pollutants that can negatively impact human health. The production of synthetic materials can also involve the use of toxic chemicals, which can have adverse effects on both the environment and human well-being.
Thirdly, natural materials often have a lower environmental impact during production. The creation of synthetic materials often involves the use of non-renewable resources and fossil fuels, leading to a larger carbon footprint. Natural materials, such as cotton, wool, or leather, may require more technology, human labor, and transportation, but they do not deplete finite resources in the same way that synthetics do.
Lastly, natural materials offer unique properties that synthetics cannot replicate. For example, natural fibres like cotton and wool are breathable and comfortable, while synthetic alternatives may not offer the same level of comfort and may even be less durable in the long run.
While synthetic materials have their advantages in specific applications, the benefits of natural materials in the fashion industry are significant. Natural materials are renewable, safer for human health, environmentally friendly during production, and offer unique properties that contribute to a more sustainable and comfortable product.
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Frequently asked questions
There has been an explosion in the use of inexpensive, petroleum-based materials, aided by the rebranding of synthetic materials like plastic leather into "vegan leather".
The Higg Index is a rating system that assesses the environmental impact of fabrics and materials. It was introduced in 2011 by some of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers, including Walmart and Patagonia.
The Higg Index uses data that is scientifically and externally reviewed to measure and help reduce brands' environmental footprints, such as by cutting down on water usage and harmful chemicals.
Critics argue that the Higg Index strongly favours synthetic materials made from fossil fuels over natural ones, and that it is being used to justify the increasing use of synthetics as environmentally friendly.
Independent experts and representatives from natural-fibre industries have called for a more accurate portrayal of the environmental toll of synthetic materials and for companies to prioritise truly sustainable practices.
