Ethan Clarke
When building a greenhouse, it is important to consider how tight the plastic covering should be. The tightness of the plastic will depend on various factors, such as the expected weather conditions and the material of the greenhouse frame. It is crucial to ensure that the plastic is tight enough to withstand wind loads, especially on the end walls, while also being properly secured to the structure. One common method of securing greenhouse plastic is by using spring wire and lock channels, which allow for easy removal and reinstallation without damaging the plastic. The thickness of the plastic sheeting is also a critical factor, with thinner plastics used for general applications and thicker plastics used in harsh weather conditions or heavy-duty applications.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Plastic film | Should have at least 2 extra feet all around the structure on the ground |
| Attachment method | Lock channel and spring wire |
| Spring wire installation | Pull the plastic tight and wiggle the wire back and forth into the channel |
| Spring wire length | 6.5 feet |
| Plastic tightening | Pull as tight as possible |
| Plastic thickness | Typically 3–12 mil, with 6 mil being the most common |
| Thinner plastic | Used for general applications like temporary walls and covering materials |
| Medium-thickness plastic | Used for greenhouse covers and enclosures |
| Thickest plastic | Used for heavy-duty applications like water retention liners |
| Frame material | Wood or metal for thicker films; PVC or polyester may react chemically with polyethylene sheeting |
| Weather conditions | Thicker plastic for heavy snow, rain, or heat |
| Installation | Start early in the morning for cooler temperatures, stretch the film, and tighten as temperatures increase |
| Maintenance | Repair holes or tears, tighten the plastic between seasons, and use the correct repair tape to maintain the warranty |
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What You'll Learn
The thickness of greenhouse plastic
Greenhouse plastic is typically available in a range of thicknesses from 3 mil to 12 mil. The most common thickness for greenhouse plastic is 6 mil, which is often recommended for full-season greenhouses in moderate climates. Thinner plastic sheeting, such as 3-4 mil, is suitable for short-term structures and general applications like creating temporary walls. Medium-thickness plastic, such as 6 mil, can be used as greenhouse covers and enclosures. For maximum durability and insulation in cold climates and commercial operations, thicker plastic of 8-12 mil is recommended.
If you live in an area with heavy snow, rain, or extreme heat, thicker plastic sheeting is advisable. Thicker plastic can also provide greater longevity in harsh weather conditions. Additionally, consider the frame material when choosing the thickness of your plastic sheeting. If your greenhouse frame is made of weaker material like PVC, thicker plastic sheeting may cause the structure to collapse. In such cases, a medium-thickness plastic is more suitable.
To extend the life of your greenhouse cover, consider using string-reinforced sheeting, which increases durability without adding thickness. If your greenhouse is located in a high-wind area, a woven poly or nylon scrim-reinforced material can provide additional strength. Applying a felt barrier, regardless of the frame material, can also help reduce the deterioration of the plastic sheeting.
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Installation methods
When getting started on your greenhouse structure, treat any wooden parts with a non-oil-based fumigant. Use aluminium slats instead of PVC. Before setting the plastic, paint all surfaces that will come into contact with the plastic with a white acrylic paint. After setting the plastic on the greenhouse structure, paint thin strips (20 cm) using a white acrylic-based paint directly on the film surface at points of contact between the film and the structure.
Attaching the greenhouse to the structure can be tricky. It is recommended to start the roll at the top of the gable and unroll it to the length of the structure. Begin this process early in the morning for cooler temperatures. Stretch the film to size and return to tighten as temperatures increase in the day. Be sure to install the roof and side curtains in the same work window, end walls can come last.
The more places you can secure the plastic on the ends, the better. This is because the end walls are vertical and bear more wind load than the curved length of the hoop house or greenhouse roof. Begin by securing the plastic across the baseboards, including horizontal door and door frame pieces at the bottom. You will then secure the plastic to the top with a second layer of wiggle wire in the end wall hoop lock channels that you first secured the plastic in when you began installing the plastic. When working the wrinkles out, think in terms of working from a central point and out diagonally. Next, work your way up the door, door frame, and uprights to the top of the hoop. It works best if you work from the bottom to the top, from the middle out on one side, and then the other. Securing these individual pieces after the perimeter makes the end wall skin very tight, which is what you want.
To finish securing the film to a greenhouse frame, begin at the top of an end wall and work down one side to the ground. With help, pull the plastic as tight as you can toward you and begin securing the film into the channel from top to bottom and side to side. Move your ladder and your crew to the opposite end wall and repeat the process.
Lock channel and spring wire is the industry standard for properly securing greenhouse plastic. The PVC-coated spring wire used to secure greenhouse coverings into a lock channel is sometimes referred to as wiggle wire because you will need to "wiggle" it up and down during installation. Spring wire, used in conjunction with the lock channel, forms a tight and secure attachment of your greenhouse covering. In order to install the spring wire, pull the plastic tight and wiggle the wire back and forth into the channel. Each section of wire is 6.5 feet long so there will be places that you will need to cut the wire to fit. You can use bolt cutters or a metal saw to easily size the sections that you need.
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Securing the plastic
When securing the plastic for your greenhouse, it is recommended to start at the top of the gable and unroll it to the length of the structure. Begin this process early in the morning when the temperature is cooler. Stretch the film to size and return to tighten as the temperature increases during the day.
The industry standard for securing greenhouse plastic is lock channel and spring wire. Spring wire, used in conjunction with the lock channel, forms a tight and secure attachment for your greenhouse covering. The PVC-coated spring wire is sometimes referred to as "wiggle wire" because you need to wiggle it up and down during installation. To install the spring wire, pull the plastic tight and wiggle the wire back and forth into the channel. Each section of wire is 6.5 feet long, so you will need to cut the wire to fit in certain places. You can use bolt cutters or a metal saw to size the sections easily.
The spring wire and lock channel method are preferred over staples and batten board because it allows the grower to remove and reinstall the plastic without causing damage. To finish securing the film, start at the top of an endwall and work down one side to the ground. Then, move your ladder to the opposite endwall. With help, pull the plastic as tight as you can toward you and begin securing the film into the channel from top to bottom and side to side.
The more places you can secure the plastic on the ends, the better. This is because the endwalls are vertical and bear more wind load than the curved length of the hoop house or greenhouse roof. Secure the plastic across the baseboards, including horizontal door and door frame pieces at the bottom. Then, secure the plastic to the top with a second layer of wiggle wire in the end wall hoop lock channels. Work your way up the door, door frame, and uprights to the top of the hoop. It works best if you work from the bottom to the top, from the middle out on one side, and then the other.
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Retightening the plastic
To retighten the plastic, you will need to remove a section of the spring wire and pull the plastic from the bottom. You can then secure the plastic by reinstalling the spring wire. To do this, pull the plastic tight and wiggle the wire back and forth into the channel. You may need to cut the wire to size using bolt cutters or a metal saw.
When tightening the plastic, it is important to work from a central point and out diagonally. Start by securing the plastic at the bottom and work your way up to the top, from the middle out to one side, and then the other. This will help to ensure that the plastic is tight and secure.
It is also recommended to have a roll of greenhouse repair tape on hand to fix any small tears that may occur during the retightening process.
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Ongoing maintenance
Repair Tears and Holes
Inspect your greenhouse plastic regularly for any tears or holes, and address them promptly. Minor tears can be easily fixed with greenhouse repair tape, specifically designed for this purpose. Keeping a roll of this tape handy is always a good idea.
Tighten the Plastic
Over time, the plastic may loosen, especially between seasons. Tightening the plastic is crucial to maintaining its effectiveness. The process involves pulling the plastic taut and securing it with spring wire, working from the top of an endwall down to the ground on one side, and then repeating the process on the opposite side.
Clean the Plastic
Rinse the plastic with a garden hose periodically to remove any dirt or debris. For more stubborn stains or spots, use a mild dish soap solution and a soft rag. Avoid using abrasive cleaners or pressure washers, as these can damage the plastic.
Avoid Chemical Damage
The use of pesticides and chemical sprays can break down the plastic and void any warranty. Always avoid direct contact between chemicals and the plastic. Additionally, shade cloth should not come into contact with the plastic, as it can cause damage. Instead, suspend the shade cloth between high posts over the structure.
Consider Weather Conditions
The maintenance of your greenhouse plastic may vary depending on weather conditions. For instance, in hot weather, metal frames can cause friction or melting issues with the plastic. Consider installing leak diverter drain tarps if you experience heavy rainfall. Thicker plastic sheeting is recommended for extreme weather conditions, such as heavy snow, rain, or heat.
By following these maintenance guidelines, you can extend the life of your greenhouse plastic and ensure it provides adequate protection for your plants.
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Frequently asked questions
The plastic should be pulled as tight as possible before being secured with spring wire. The plastic should have at least 2 extra feet all around the structure on the ground.
The industry standard for securing greenhouse plastic is lock channel and spring wire. This method is preferred over staples and batten board as it does not damage the plastic when it needs to be removed or reinstalled.
The thickness of greenhouse plastic, or mil, is critical and depends on the material of the frame, the application of the sheeting, and the expected weather conditions. Thicker plastic is generally stronger and should be used in extreme weather. Thinner plastic is used for general applications.
