Ethan Clarke
For centuries, hunters have mounted animal skulls and antlers on their walls to commemorate a successful hunt. The European skull mount, also known as a freedom mount, is a popular choice for those who prefer a clean, bleached skull look. While some opt for professional taxidermy, others choose to create their own mounts, which can be more cost-effective and allow for greater personalisation. One method for achieving an aged appearance on a plastic European skull mount involves the use of wood stain, specifically Dark Walnut, which imparts a yellow-brownish tint to the bones, giving them a more natural and aged look.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Skull Mounting Methods | Boiling, beetles, traditional antler mounts, European skull mounts, shoulder mounts, full-body mounts |
| Boiling Skull Instructions | Wrap antlers in tinfoil/plastic wrap, use enough water to cover the skull, cook until meat falls away from bone, let cool before cleaning |
| Whitening Skulls | Hydrogen peroxide gel, baking soda, powdered whitening agents, sunlight/artificial light |
| Antler Transplantation | Saw off antlers, drill holes in antlers and donor skull, use pegs, bondo, resin, or epoxie, smooth seams with epoxie sculpt, touch up with white paint |
| Aging Plastic Skulls | Wood stain (Dark Walnut), cotton balls for a mottled look, clear lacquer to prevent chipping |
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What You'll Learn
Whitening skulls with hydrogen peroxide gel and baking soda
For whitening skulls, hydrogen peroxide of concentrations 3%, 12%, and 35% can be used, with higher concentrations working faster. Food-grade hydrogen peroxide is preferable as it does not contain stabilizers or additives. The peroxide is applied by painting it on the skull or soaking the skull in a tub of peroxide. The application method depends on the concentration, with lower concentrations requiring soaking for 2-3 days and higher concentrations requiring only a few hours. After application, the skull should be rinsed and dried, and sun exposure can enhance the whitening effect. It is important to keep concentrated peroxide out of reach of children and animals and dispose of it properly due to its environmental impact.
In addition to hydrogen peroxide, baking soda can also be used to whiten skulls. Boiling skulls in a solution of Arm and Hammer super washing soda for 2-3 hours can effectively whiten them. This method is a safer alternative to using pure hydrogen peroxide, as it does not require the same level of caution regarding toxicity and environmental impact.
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Boiling skulls to remove meat and fat
Boiling skulls is a common practice for those who want to create a European skull mount. While it is not the only method, boiling is often chosen because it is easy and effective. However, it is important to note that boiling can damage the skull if not done properly. For example, boiling for too long can crack the teeth and soften the bone. Therefore, it is recommended to only boil the skull for as long as necessary to remove the meat and fat.
To begin the boiling process, one must first prepare the skull. This includes removing as much meat and tissue as possible with a knife. For some skulls, it may be necessary to remove the brain as well. This can be done by using a screwdriver or a drill with a hole saw to mush the brain and then scoop or rinse it out.
Once the skull has been prepared, it is ready to be boiled. One popular method is to use a Bridger Boiler, which has a split cover that helps retain heat. However, other large pots can also be used, such as a deep frying turkey pot or a metal bucket. When boiling the skull, it is important to maintain a light boil or simmer to avoid damaging the teeth and bones. The boiling time can vary depending on the skull, but it typically ranges from 15 to 60 minutes. During this time, the skull should be periodically removed from the water to scrape away any loosened tissue.
After boiling, the skull should be placed in clean, hot water while a bleaching mixture is prepared. This mixture often includes Basic White powder and 40-volume hydrogen peroxide. The skull is then removed from the hot water, patted dry, and covered with the bleaching mixture. It is left to air dry, usually overnight, and then rinsed with clear running water. The result is a white, clean skull that can be used for a European skull mount.
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Using wood stain to age plastic skulls
Wood stain is an effective way to age plastic skulls. It is a popular method for creating DIY Halloween decorations. The process is simple and can be done with easily accessible materials.
Firstly, choose a suitable wood stain. Dark walnut is a popular choice as it leaves a yellow/brownish tint, giving the plastic skull an aged appearance. Other wood stains such as Minwax "Special Walnut" can also be used, depending on availability and preference.
Before applying the wood stain, it is recommended to prepare the surface of the plastic skull. This can be done by using sandpaper to scruff up the surface, creating a texture that allows the stain to adhere better. This step may not be necessary for all plastic skulls, especially if they already have some texture or are not too smooth.
When applying the wood stain, there are a few techniques to consider. One method is to use a cotton ball to dab the stain onto the skull, creating a mottled and uneven finish. This technique adds to the aged look by creating variations in colour and texture. Alternatively, you can use a brush to apply the stain, especially if you want to cover larger areas or achieve a more consistent finish.
It is important to note that wood stain takes a significant amount of time to dry on plastic skulls. Be prepared to allow ample time for the stain to dry completely before handling the skull or displaying it. In some cases, it may take up to 24 hours or more for the stain to fully cure and lose any tackiness.
To enhance the aged appearance further, you can add fake blood to the cracks and grooves of the stained skull. Stretching cheap spider web material over the skull can also create an eerie effect. These additional touches can make your plastic skull look even more realistic and striking.
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Converting old taxidermy into a European mount
To begin the conversion process, you'll need to carefully remove the antlers from your old taxidermy mount. This can be done by sawing them off at the skull plate. If you want to preserve the original antlers, you can consider transplanting them onto a donor skull, which can be sourced from a local taxidermist or meat processor. Alternatively, you can opt for a plastic or artificial skull, although some may find these less aesthetically pleasing.
Once you have your donor skull, whether it's a natural, plastic, or artificial one, you'll need to clean it thoroughly. This step is crucial in ensuring that your final mount looks presentable and free of any unwanted tissue or residue. The specific cleaning method may vary depending on the type of skull you choose. For natural skulls, boiling or using a laundry booster like Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda can help remove remaining tissue and give the skull a bright white appearance.
After cleaning, you can attach the antlers to your chosen skull. If you're using a plastic or artificial skull, you may be able to reuse the mounting hardware from your original taxidermy mount. For natural skulls, you might need to use screws or other appropriate fasteners to secure the antlers in place. It's important to take precise measurements of the antler placement to ensure they align correctly and maintain the original orientation.
Finally, you can choose to further enhance the appearance of your European mount by ageing or bleaching the skull. Some prefer the aged look, which can be achieved through various techniques, such as using peroxide and sunlight or specific ageing products designed for European mounts. If you prefer a cleaner, more modern aesthetic, you might opt for bleaching the skull to achieve a bright white appearance.
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Attaching antlers to a donor skull
There are several methods for attaching antlers to a donor skull, and the process can be tricky. One method is to find antlers that are still attached to the skull plate. This provides a solid mount point, and you can then attach them to a stiff band of metal or thick leather. Drilling holes in the skull and using screws to attach the antlers is one way to ensure they are secure.
Another method is to use epoxy. You can drill into the pedicle of the antler and epoxy a threaded rod into it. Then, drill a hole into the base of the skull and insert a nut to tighten it down. You can then blend the join with apoxi clay and paint. This method can be strengthened by drilling a series of small holes on both sides and filling them with bondo, creating smaller rod-like structures.
If you are attaching the antlers to a cap, you will need to reinforce the cap with something like stainless steel strips and wood. Hot glue can be used to preliminarily attach the antlers, and then they can be stitched on through the drilled holes. For larger antlers, a steel cap is recommended as they can be quite heavy.
When gluing bones together, small sandbags and bean bags can be useful for propping up the skull while the adhesive cures.
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Frequently asked questions
Skull mounting, also known as "freedom mounting", is a method of displaying animal skulls, antlers, and horns on walls.
You can make a European skull mount by boiling the skull in water until the meat falls away from the bone. Alternatively, you can use a pressure washer to clean the skull.
You can use wood stain to age a plastic skull mount. Dark Walnut is a popular choice as it leaves a yellow/brownish tint.
You can whiten a skull mount by coating it with hydrogen peroxide gel and leaving it in the sun for a couple of days.
