Ethan Clarke
Installing plastic on a hoop house, high tunnel, or greenhouse is a challenging task that requires a team of people and the right tools. The process involves removing old plastic, preparing the metal frame, and carefully attaching new plastic sheeting. The best time to install plastic is on a calm, windless day, when the plastic can be stretched and secured without the risk of it being blown away. There are several methods for attaching the plastic, including using snap clamps, poly lock channels, spring wire channels, or rope and pressure systems.
Characteristics and Values
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Time to attach plastic | Mild, sunny weather with no wind or low wind speed (below 5 mph) |
| Plastic type | IR (Infrared Reflecting)/Condensate Control inner plastic, Tufflite IV, Tufflite Dripless, Anti-Drip Greenhouse Plastic, Poly Lock Channel, Snap Clamps |
| Tools required | Tall stepladder, shorter stepladders, small-nosed pliers, flat-bladed screwdriver, bolt cutters, utility knives, tennis balls, ropes, duct tape, batten tape, staple guns, spring wire, wiggle wire |
| Installation process | Remove old plastic, detach blower and jumper hoses, remove inner plastic, apply duct tape to metal frame connectors, unroll new inner plastic, attach plastic to ends, attach plastic to sides, secure with channel and spring wire, tack plastic into the channel with wiggle wire, attach jumper and inflation hoses, refit manometer, unroll outer plastic |
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What You'll Learn
Prepare the plastic and the frame
First, ensure you have the right size and type of plastic for your hoop house. Order this in advance so that you have it ready when you need it. The plastic should reach the ground (no separate sidewalls). You will also need high-quality duct tape, so make sure you have enough for your project.
Next, prepare the frame by removing any old plastic. Pull off the outer plastic and roll it up, or cut it into 10’ wide lengths for future low tunnels. If you think you may need to use it again in an emergency, keep it whole. Then, detach the blower and jumper hoses from the inner plastic and remove this too, rolling it up as you go.
Now, cover all the metal frame connectors with new duct tape. This will ensure your new plastic has a clean surface to attach to.
Finally, prepare your new plastic. Unroll it outside the hoop house, keeping the surface that will be on the inside dry. If the ground is damp, use the old plastic as a carpet and unroll the new plastic on top. You want to avoid the plastic getting wet and becoming harder to stretch. This job is best done in mild, sunny weather, with little to no wind.
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Use snap clamps or spring wire
When it comes to attaching plastic to a hoop house, one recommended method is to use snap clamps or spring wire. This process is relatively straightforward and can be completed in a few steps, but it is best done with a pair of helping hands.
Firstly, ensure you have the right size and type of plastic for your hoop house. Order this in good time, and consider the specific requirements of your structure. For instance, if your hoop house has separate sidewalls, you will need to account for this in your measurements.
On the day of installation, it is best to work in mild, sunny weather. Avoid windy conditions, as this will make the process much more difficult. If you can only work in breezy conditions, try to do so at dusk or dawn when the wind is less strong.
With your plastic ready and the weather on your side, begin by pulling off any old outer plastic from your hoop house. You can roll it up as it is or cut it into smaller lengths for future use. Then, detach the blower and jumper hoses from the inner plastic, and remove this too, rolling it up as you go.
Now, you can start attaching your new plastic. Using snap clamps, simply push them onto the plastic and the metal tubing of your hoop house frame. Ensure you have the correct size of snap clamps for your tubing diameter. Spring wire can also be used in a similar way to hold the plastic in place. Work from the peak of your hoop house structure down to the hip-rail, pulling the plastic tight as you go to reduce movement in windy weather.
Finally, once your plastic is attached, you can refit your blower and jumper hoses. Be sure not to cut the outer plastic when making the hole for the tubing.
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Tack the plastic into the channel
When attaching plastic to a hoop house, it is important to work in mild, sunny weather with minimal wind. This ensures that the plastic will be dry and can be stretched without tearing. It is also crucial to have the necessary tools, such as a tall stepladder, small-nosed pliers, a flat-bladed screwdriver, bolt cutters, tennis balls, ropes, a sock, a plastic water bottle, polypatch tape, scissors, utility knives, drip-tape for battening, staples, staple guns, and duct tape.
Once you have prepared the frame of your hoop house and unrolled the new plastic, you can begin the process of tacking the plastic into the channel. This step is crucial for securing the plastic tightly to reduce movement in windy weather and prevent wear and tear. Here is a detailed guide on how to tackle this step:
Prepare the Wiggle Wire
Before tacking the plastic, you should first prepare the wiggle wire, a flexible wire used to secure the plastic in place. Cut the wiggle wire to the appropriate length using bolt cutters. The wiggle wire will be inserted into a channel that runs along the baseboards or hip-board of the hoop house.
Tack the Plastic
Starting at one end of the hoop house, use the middle lengths of the wiggle wire to tack the plastic into the channel. Space your tacks at least once every 12 feet down the length of the hoop house. Be careful not to pull the plastic too tight to avoid tearing or putting excessive stress on the frame. Work your way along the structure, ensuring the plastic is securely held in place by the wiggle wire.
Work in Pairs
Attaching the plastic is a two-person job. While one person holds the plastic in place, the other can insert the wiggle wire into the channel, ensuring the plastic is securely tacked. Communication and coordination between the pair are essential to ensure the plastic is evenly stretched and properly secured.
Check for Alignment
As you tack the plastic, periodically step back and check that the plastic is aligned correctly and evenly stretched. Any wrinkles or uneven areas should be smoothed out before continuing. Remember not to over-tighten the plastic, as this can lead to tears and put unnecessary strain on the frame.
Secure the Edges
Once the plastic is tacked into the channel, you can further secure the edges with additional measures. Tennis balls can be tied to the edges of the plastic, and ropes can be used to pull the plastic over the top of the structure. This adds tension to the plastic and helps keep it in place, reducing the likelihood of flapping or tearing in windy conditions.
By following these steps and working meticulously, you can effectively tack the plastic into the channel of your hoop house, creating a secure and protective covering for your plants.
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Secure with duct tape
To attach plastic to a hoop house, it is recommended to work in mild, sunny, and windless weather. This is because the plastic needs to be dry and able to stretch.
If you want to secure the plastic with duct tape, you will first need to pull off any old outer plastic from the hoop house. Cut the old plastic into 10' wide lengths for future low tunnels, or roll it up as it is if you'd like to keep it in one piece.
Next, detach the blower and jumper hoses from the inner plastic. Remove the inner plastic and roll it up, either in pieces or as a whole. Put new high-quality duct tape over all the metal frame connectors.
Now, you can unroll the new inner plastic outside the hoop house along one side, keeping the surface that will be on the outside (top) dry. It's important not to pull the plastic too tight. When all seems good, work with another person to attach your jumper and inflation hoses.
Finally, you can secure the plastic with duct tape. For a 30' x 96' tunnel, you will need at least 6 rolls of high-quality duct tape.
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Work in pairs to attach hoses
Working in pairs, grab a corner of the plastic film on the ends and start lifting it over the hoops of the hoop house. Use soft-bristled brooms or poles with tennis balls on the ends to guide the plastic over the structure. This will help you work with the wind and prevent the plastic from getting pushed onto the ribs. Make sure the plastic is at least 2 feet longer than the width of your hoop house so that it has enough slack to be pulled over the structure.
Once the plastic is fully rolled out, it should have at least 2 extra feet all around the structure on the ground. Now, using the middle lengths of wigglewire, tack the plastic into the channel, at least once every 12 feet down the length of the hoop house, on the baseboards. Be careful not to pull the plastic too tight.
Next, work in pairs to attach the jumper hoses and inflation hose. You won't be able to access the outside after putting the outer plastic on, so be sure to start with undersized holes in the plastic and stretch them to fit.
Finally, refit your manometer before turning on the blower. If you need to make a hole for the tubing, be careful not to cut the outer plastic.
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Frequently asked questions
It is best to attach plastic to a hoop house in mild, sunny weather. The ideal wind speed is below 5 mph. If only breezy days are available, do it at dusk or dawn in the summer.
You will need a tall stepladder and two pairs of shorter stepladders, small-nosed pliers, a flat-bladed screwdriver, bolt cutters, tennis balls, ropes, a sock, a plastic water bottle, polypatch tape, scissors, utility knives, old drip tape or batten tape, scissors, long staples, staple guns, and duct tape.
First, remove the old plastic and detach the blower and jumper hoses from the inner plastic. Then, remove the inner plastic and roll it up. Put duct tape over the metal frame connectors. Unroll the new inner plastic, keeping the surface that will be on the outside dry. Attach the plastic on the ends, then the sides. Use Spring Wire Channel and Spring Wire, Poly Lock Channels, or Snap Clamps to attach the plastic to the metal framing.
The plastic should be pulled tight to reduce movement in the wind and prevent wear and tear. However, do not pull the plastic too tight.
Use an anti-drip greenhouse plastic that can follow the standard installation protocol for unrolling and dropping the sides over the top of the structure. For a 30' x 96' tunnel, you will need a 48' x 100' plastic sheet.
