
Installing thin plastic moulding is a straightforward process that can be done in several ways. Before attaching the moulding, ensure that the surface is clean and free from debris. If you're working with a painted surface, remove any loose or peeling paint to ensure proper adhesion. You can use nails, screws, or an adhesive like PVC cement to attach the moulding. If using nails, stainless steel or galvanized nails are recommended, with nails spaced evenly, approximately every 16 inches, to ensure a secure attachment. When using PVC cement, you will have about five minutes of working time to clamp and fasten the joints before it sets.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of nails | Stainless steel or galvanized nails with thin shanks, fully rounded heads, and blunt points |
| Spacing between nails | Evenly spaced, approximately every 16 inches |
| Fastening location | Nails should be driven into the framing, not just the sheathing, at least 2 inches from the end of the board |
| Surface preparation | Clean and free from debris, with any rough edges sanded down and loose or peeling paint removed |
| Expansion and contraction considerations | Leave a small gap (approximately 1/8 inch) between the trim and adjacent surfaces to accommodate temperature-induced expansion and contraction |
| Additional protection | Apply exterior-grade caulk to joints and seams for protection against moisture infiltration and a seamless appearance |
| Caulking application | Use a caulking gun for even and consistent application |
| Drilling considerations | Use standard woodworking drill bits with a point angle of -90° to 110°, a spiral angle of approximately 30°, and a relief angle of 10°; remove shavings from drill holes before filling |
| Routing recommendations | Employ standard working cables with carbide-tipped bits and multiple flutes; use a newly sharpened tool and opt for tools with small radii to prevent stress cracking |
| Cutting considerations | Use a fine-toothed hand saw or a power saw with at least an 80-tooth blade to avoid breakage |
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What You'll Learn

Clean the surface and remove debris
To attach thin plastic moulding, it is important to begin with a clean surface, free from debris. This is a crucial step to ensure proper adhesion and a seamless finish. Here are some detailed steps to guide you through the process:
Firstly, inspect the surface for any dirt, dust, or residue. Use a soft, clean cloth to wipe down the area, removing any visible particles. If there are stubborn stains or grease, a mild detergent or cleaning solution can be used, but be sure to rinse and dry the surface thoroughly afterwards.
Next, pay special attention to the edges and corners of the surface. Use a fine-grit sandpaper to gently sand down any rough patches or protruding paint. This step will create a smooth finish and help the moulding adhere better. If there is loose or peeling paint, carefully scrape or peel it off to ensure the surface is consistent and stable.
After the surface is clean and smooth, take a moment to inspect it for any remaining imperfections. Fill in any small holes or cracks with an appropriate filler or putty, following the instructions on the product for proper application and drying time. This step will ensure a truly even surface for the moulding to adhere to.
Additionally, remember to keep the surrounding area clear of debris as well. Use a vacuum or a soft brush to remove any dust or debris that may have accumulated nearby, as these particles can easily settle on the freshly cleaned surface. It is important to maintain a clean work area throughout the entire process.
By following these steps, you will ensure that the surface is properly prepared for the attachment of thin plastic moulding, providing a strong and seamless finish.
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Use nails or screws for fastening
When attaching thin plastic moulding, you can use nails or screws for fastening. This process can be done with standard hand tools or power tools.
If you are using screws, it is recommended to use high-quality stainless steel trim screws, as these will not corrode or rust. You can also use hot-dipped galvanized nails, but these may corrode over time. When using screws, ensure that you select the right length to penetrate the framing by at least 1-1/2 inches. Cortex brand fasteners are also a good option, as they come with a bit that will stop the screw once the desired depth is reached.
Before drilling, remember to pre-drill holes that are slightly larger than the screw head. This is especially important if you are using a powered driver, as you do not want to overtighten the screws and risk distorting the plastic. If you are using nails, it is recommended to use 8d nails with thin shanks, fully rounded heads, and blunt points.
When fastening PVC trim boards, it is important to fasten them well, as they tend to expand and contract with temperature changes. Make sure to fasten to the framing and not just into the sheathing. Place fasteners approximately every 16 inches at both edges of the trim, spacing them about 1/2 inch from the edges. If your trim is 10 inches or wider, add another fastener in the middle.
By following these steps and using the appropriate nails or screws, you can effectively attach thin plastic moulding.
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Drill holes with woodworking drill bits
When drilling holes with woodworking drill bits, it's important to select the correct type of drill bit to ensure that the holes are uniformly shaped, clean, and undamaged. Spur-point drill bits (also known as dowel bits or wood bits) are best suited for drilling holes in plastic. The point and angle in front of these bits ensure that the stress in front is minimised and that the cut is smooth. It is recommended to slow down as you are exiting to get a clean and neat hole.
When drilling plastic, the larger the hole, the slower the drill speed should be, as high speeds can melt the plastic. Always reduce the drill speed as the drill bit exits the material. Before drilling, it’s best to clamp down the plastic securely to a solid surface and back up the piece you are drilling with a spare piece of plywood underneath. This way, the drill bit enters the plywood when it exits the plastic, avoiding chipping the surface on the bottom.
To keep the other parts of the plastic from cracking, place painter's tape over the area where you intend to drill. While drilling, apply a lubricant to remove unwanted debris and reduce heat, especially when drilling deeper holes. Lubricants such as WD40, canola oil, or even vegetable oil can be used. During the drilling process, apply a little but firm pressure to the drill. Pause or slow down to re-lubricate the drill to prevent it from overheating.
It is also important to note that plastics expand and contract with temperature changes, so it is recommended to drill a slightly larger hole than necessary to allow room for screw movement without placing stress on the material.
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Use routers for decorative edges
Routers are a well-designed, precise, high-speed rotary tool for cutting and shaping wood. They can be used to create decorative edges and grooves in thin plastic mouldings. Here are some tips for using routers to create decorative edges:
First, it is important to prioritise safety when using a router. Always wear eye protection and ensure proper dust collection to avoid damaging your eyesight or lungs. Additionally, pay attention to your blades, as dull blades can be dangerous and may damage the material you are working with.
When using a router, it is recommended to use bits with 1/2" shanks, as they offer a reduced chance of deflection and yield cleaner cuts. Routers with a straight bit installed can easily cut a dado, which is a groove or slot into which another board can fit. To ensure a straight cut in the exact location, utilise a straightedge fence.
For narrow mouldings, a router table and featherboards can be used. Alternatively, start by routing the desired profile on a wide board, then create the moulding by cutting the shaped edge using a table saw. Repeat this process until the board becomes too narrow.
When routing the ends and sides of a board, it is advisable to rout the ends first. This is because end grain tends to split out as the bit exits the cut. By routing the ends first, any damaged areas will be cut off when routing the sides.
To secure small pieces while routing, screw a scrap of wood to your workbench to elevate the project and provide clearance for the bearing. Apply hot-melt glue to the scrap and attach your workpiece.
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Use cement for PVC joints
When attaching thin plastic moulding, one method you can use is gluing PVC pipes together. This process involves using a chemical solvent to create an airtight, leak-proof bond. Here are some detailed steps on how to use cement for PVC joints:
First, ensure you have the correct type of cement. There are different kinds of cements and primers available, so read the labels carefully and select a cement specifically formulated for PVC. Popular manufacturers of PVC cement include Weld-On, Oatey, and Gorilla.
Next, prepare your work area and gather the necessary safety equipment. PVC primer and cement can be messy and release harmful toxins, so work in a well-ventilated area. Put on safety goggles and protective gloves to avoid eye and skin contact. You may also want to lay a tarp or towel over your work surface to facilitate cleanup in case of any spills or drips.
Now, you can begin the process of joining the PVC pipes. Cut the PVC pipe to the correct length using a PVC pipe cutter and smooth any burrs off the edges with coarse sandpaper or a utility knife. Apply a thin coat of PVC primer to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting, preparing the surface for the cement.
After applying the primer, you have a short time before it dries out, so work quickly. Apply a thin coat of PVC cement to the inside of the fitting, avoiding puddling as it can weaken the joint. Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe itself.
Then, assemble the parts. Push the pipe fully into the fitting using a quarter-turn motion and hold the pipe and fitting together for at least 30 seconds to prevent the pipe from pushing out. Wipe off any excess cement, and allow sufficient time for the cement to cure. The curing time will depend on the temperature and pipe size, so refer to the product's instructions.
By following these steps, you can securely attach thin plastic moulding using cement for PVC joints, ensuring a strong and leak-proof connection.
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Frequently asked questions
You can use either a power saw or a fine-toothed hand saw. If you're using a chop saw, make sure to use at least an 80-tooth blade.
Yes, you can use nails to attach thin plastic moulding. It is recommended to use 8d nails with thin shanks, fully rounded heads, and blunt points. Space the nails evenly, approximately every 16 inches, to ensure a secure attachment.
Yes, you can use an air gun to nail thin plastic moulding. Alternatively, you can pre-drill the holes and then hand nail it.
It is recommended to use silicone mold putty for plastic moulding.
You can use stainless steel or galvanized nails to secure PVC trim boards to the substrate. Drive the nails into the framing, never into the sheathing. Alternatively, you can use PVC cement to secure the joints together.











































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