Maya Ellison
Casting a plastic figure is a fun and creative process that can be done at home with the right tools and materials. It involves creating a mould of an object, such as an action figure, and then pouring a liquid plastic resin into the mould to create a duplicate. This technique is known as resin casting, and it allows creators to produce parts that would otherwise be difficult or expensive to make without a full CNC and injection moulding setup. With a good setup, which costs around $300 to $600, creators can produce parts that are stronger and more accurate than those made with injection moulding. In this process, it is important to follow the right steps, from preparing the mould to casting and curing the resin, to ensure a successful final product.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cost | $300-$600 for raw material, resin, dye, pressure chamber, and an optional vacuum degassing set-up |
| Materials | Silicone, resin, plaster, clay, glue, petroleum jelly, cooking oil, release agent |
| Tools | Miniature paint mixer, electronic precision scale, gloves |
| Process | Clean the plastic figure, make a mould, spray with release agent, pour in resin, let cure, remove from mould |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a mould-making material
When choosing a mould-making material, it is important to consider the desired complexity of the mould, the type of plastic being used, and the desired finish.
For beginners, it is recommended to start with a simple, flat, one-piece, open mould. Basic moulds can be made using silicone, which does not stick to most materials, except glass, due to its shared silica base. However, if working with a fragile or porous surface, it may be necessary to seal it with varnish or PVA glue, or grease it with Vaseline before applying silicone. After curing for 24 hours, the mould is ready for use.
For more complex moulds, it is advisable to create easily mouldable parts that can be assembled. Urethane or polyurethane can be used for fast-cure moulds, and ImPRESSive Putty is recommended for higher temperatures. To handle higher-temperature urethane resins, techniques such as freezing the mould, adding fillers, or pouring in intervals can be employed. Urethane moulds are also suitable for casting concrete, gypsum, and wax.
When working with epoxy resins, it is important to choose epoxies with longer cure times for larger castings. Epoxy resins that require added heat for curing are not recommended. ComposiCast White, Black, and Clear Casting Plastic are formulated for use with ComposiMold and ImPRESSive Putty.
Other mould-making materials include polyurethane mould rubber, which can be poured, brushed, or sprayed onto surfaces, and ComposiMold, which is suitable for casting with crayons. Additionally, InstaMorph and Friendly Plastic are types of plastic that become putty-like when melted and can be used for casting in ImPRESSive Putty moulds.
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Preparing the mould
Firstly, measure the width and height of the figure you plan to mould. It is recommended to add at least one extra inch to the width, while for the height, it just needs to be taller, with no specific amount. This will ensure that your mould box has enough space to accommodate the figure comfortably.
Next, cut out the four sides and the bottom piece according to your measurements. Assemble the box by gluing the sides to the bottom piece. Hot glue is a suitable adhesive for this purpose. Once the box is constructed, fill any gaps or seams with hot glue to create a seamless mould box. This step is important to prevent any leaks when pouring the casting material.
Now, you can secure your figure to the bottom piece of the mould box. Use hot glue or light glues like rubber cement or blue tack to hold the figure in place. If using hot glue, be careful not to use too much heat, as it may damage the figure.
Before pouring the casting material, it is essential to prepare the mould surface. Spray the inside of the mould box and the figure with a mould release agent. This will help ensure that your cast can be easily removed later. Allow the release agent to dry completely, and then polish it off. This step is especially important if your figure has a textured surface to prevent any detail loss.
Finally, if your figure has intricate details or undercuts, you may need to create a two-part mould. This involves creating keys and sprues using modelling clay or a similar material. Build the keys and sprues on the same flat surface where your figure is mounted, ensuring they are securely attached.
By following these steps, you will have a well-prepared mould that is ready for the casting process. The mould preparation is a critical aspect of achieving successful and accurate casts, so attention to detail is essential.
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Casting the figure
Casting a plastic figure requires a mould, which can be made using silicone, and a casting material, which could be resin, plaster, concrete, rubber, or metal.
First, you need to prepare the plastic figure for moulding. Remove the figure from its assembly and clean it thoroughly. Any fingerprints or dust will be replicated in the mould. You may want to spray the plastic with a mould release agent to help with the removal of the cast later on.
Next, you need to create a mould of the figure. Measure the width and height of the figure, adding at least 1" to the width and a fair amount to the height. Cut out the sides and bottom of the mould, using modelling clay for the bottom piece. Hot glue the figure to the bottom piece and attach the sides with glue. Fill all gaps with hot glue to contain the silicone. Mix the silicone and catalyst together, following the instructions on the packaging, and pour the mixture over the figure, ensuring it is covered by 0.5-1cm of silicone. Cover the mould with plastic sheeting to prevent the clay from drying out and wait for the silicone to dry.
Once the silicone is dry, you can remove the clay walls and rebuild them 3-4cm away from the edge of the silicone mould. You can now pour the casting material into the mould. If you are using plaster, mix the powder and catalyst and pour it into the mould from the pouring tunnel at the end of the mould. Gently wiggle the mould to ensure the plaster coats all parts of the mould and to get rid of any air bubbles. If you are using resin, mix it well and pour it into the mould a little at a time, gently rolling the mould to let air bubbles escape before adding more resin. Repeat until the mould is full.
Finally, wait for the cast to cure or set and then remove it from the mould.
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Removing the cast
Preparing the Mould for Casting
Before casting your plastic figure, it is essential to prepare the mould properly to ensure the cast can be removed smoothly. Firstly, measure the width and height of the object you plan to mould, adding at least 1" to the width. Cut out four sides and a bottom piece to create a box that fits your item snugly. Assemble the box using hot glue, ensuring all gaps are filled to contain the silicone effectively.
Applying a Release Agent
Once your mould box is constructed, apply a release agent to ensure the cast doesn't stick to the mould. You can use a spray-on release agent or light glues like rubber cement or blue tack to hold the original piece in place. If using a spray-on release agent, allow it to dry completely before proceeding.
Casting the Figure
Now, you're ready to cast your plastic figure. Mix your chosen casting material, such as resin or silicone, thoroughly, following the manufacturer's instructions. If using a two-part mould, cast one half first, leaving the parts in the silicone. Then, cast the mating silicone mould on top. Remember to degas the mixture if possible to remove any air bubbles.
After the cast has fully cured, it's time to remove it from the mould. Carefully cut away any undercuts, removing only what is necessary to release the cast. Gently prise open the mould and slowly roll it back to reveal your cast plastic figure.
Cleaning and Refining the Cast
Sometimes, you may find residual plaster or mould material on the surface of your cast. To clean and refine your cast figure, you can use a variety of methods, such as:
- Soaking the cast in CLR (Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover): Soak the cast overnight, then scrub it with a stiff brush to remove any remaining plaster.
- Kiln wash: Apply kiln wash to your mould before casting to prevent plaster from sticking and make it easier to remove.
- Sandblasting: This technique can be used to remove excess material, but it may not be suitable for creating a hand-finished look.
- Hand refining: For intricate details, you may need to refine the cast by hand, using hand tools and pads to carefully remove any residual plaster.
Remember to always handle your cast with care to avoid damage, especially when working with delicate materials or intricate designs.
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Finishing touches
Once you have cast your plastic figure, there are several finishing touches you can add to make it look more realistic and polished. Here are some detailed instructions for adding the final touches to your creation:
Painting and Decals
Paint your figure with the colours and designs of your choice. If you wish to add decals, apply a gloss clear coat first to smooth the surface and protect the decals. You can use tweezers or a soft brush to apply the decals carefully. Once the decals are dry, seal them with another coat of clear gloss. If you want to add weathering effects to make your figure look more realistic and worn, do so after sealing the decals. You can use diluted paint to achieve a 3D effect on panel lines, rivets, and other surface protrusions. Be careful not to overpower the shadows or obliterate finer details.
Assembly and Detailing
After painting and adding decals, it's time to assemble any remaining parts. Attach small details such as antennas, weapons, or other accessories. Ensure you sand off any glue marks or imperfections that occurred during assembly. You can also add a diorama base or any other realistic setting to enhance the overall presentation of your figure.
Safety Precautions
It is important to wear nitrile gloves during the finishing process to protect yourself from chemicals. Although most of these chemicals are not harmful with short-term exposure, constant exposure may lead to the development of allergies.
Drying and Curing
Throughout the finishing process, it is crucial to allow sufficient drying time for each layer or coat you apply. This includes the clear coats, paint, and any other adhesives used during assembly. Refer to the instructions on your chosen products to determine the recommended drying and curing times.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need raw materials like resin, dye, a pressure chamber, and optionally, a vacuum degassing set-up. You will also need accessories like a miniature paint mixer, nitrile gloves, an electronic precision scale, and modelling clay.
First, measure the width and height of the object you're moulding, then add at least 1" to the width. Cut out the four sides and a bottom piece to make a box that fits your item. Hot glue the item to the bottom piece, then glue the side panels. Fill all gaps with hot glue to contain the silicone. Mix the silicone liquid with a catalyst, then pour the mixture over the object. Cover the object with plastic sheeting to prevent the clay from drying out.
Mix your chosen material, such as resin or Jesmonite powder, with a catalyst according to the ratios provided. Pour the mixture into your mould, ensuring that it coats all parts of the mould and that any air bubbles escape. Allow the cast to cure, then remove it from the mould.
