Ethan Clarke
If your toilet's flush valve is broken, you may be able to fix it by tightening the bolt that holds the assembly to the handle. If not, you'll need to replace it. To do this, you'll first need to remove the toilet tank from the bowl. Turn off the water, flush the toilet, and hold the trip lever down to remove most of the water from the tank. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water, then disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. Next, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. Clamp a padded locking plier/wrench around the flush valve to keep it from rotating, then unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Now you can install the new flush valve, following the directions provided with the product.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| What holds the flush valves to the tank | One large jam nut on the bottom of the tank |
| Removing the toilet tank from the bowl | Usually required, but wall-mounted tanks may not need to be removed |
| Steps to remove the tank | Turn the water off, flush the toilet, hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the water, use a sponge to remove remaining water, disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply, replace the flexible riser tube if damaged, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve |
| Caution | Forcing the bolts may cause breakage of the tank, bowl, or both |
| Additional steps if bolts won't budge | Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads, wrap masking tape around a hacksaw blade and saw with the teeth facing you so the blade cuts on the 'pull' stroke |
| Steps to install the new flush valve | Lay the tank upside down on a rug or newspaper padding, unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve, use locking pliers with penetrating oil, clamp a padded locking plier/wrench around the flush valve to prevent rotation, follow the directions for the new flush valve (rubber gasket goes inside the tank, flat washer goes on the outside), tighten bolts to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket, check state and local codes |
| Additional information | Toilet repair kits are available at hardware stores with parts and step-by-step instructions |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the toilet tank
Once the water supply is off, flush the toilet and hold the trip lever down to drain the tank. If there is still water remaining, use a sponge to soak it up. The next step is to disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If there is a flexible riser tube, check for damage and replace it if necessary.
Now, you can begin to remove the tank by unscrewing the bolts. First, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads to avoid forcing the bolts, which could cause the tank or bowl to break. If the bolts still do not move, try using a hacksaw blade. Wrap masking tape around the blade and saw with the teeth facing you, so the blade cuts on the pull stroke. Ask a helper to hold the tank steady while you remove and install the bolts.
Finally, lift the tank away from the bowl. Place it upside down on a rug or newspaper padding to protect it. You can now access the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank.
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Disconnecting the water supply
Next, disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the flexible riser tube is damaged, it should be replaced. Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange and have nuts beneath them. Be cautious during this step, as forcing the bolts may cause the tank, bowl, or both to break. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If the bolts still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing you so that the blade cuts on the 'pull' stroke.
After the bolts are removed, the tank should lift away from the bowl. Lay the tank upside down on a throw rug or newspaper padding to protect it. Now you are ready to install the new flush valve.
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Unscrewing bolts and nuts
To change an Ace flush valve, you will first need to remove the toilet tank from the bowl. This can be complicated, so caution is advised. If you have a wall-mounted tank, you may not need to remove it. If you do, start by turning off the water supply completely and flushing the toilet. Hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the water from the tank. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water. Then, disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply.
Now, you can begin to unscrew the bolts and nuts. There will be two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts beneath. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If they still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing you so that the blade cuts on the 'pull' stroke.
Once the bolts and nuts are removed, you can lift the tank away from the bowl. Lay it upside down on a rug or newspaper to protect it, and unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Use locking pliers and penetrating oil, and be extremely careful to avoid breakage.
Finally, clamp a well-padded locking plier or wrench around the flush valve to keep it from rotating inside the tank. You can now install your new Ace flush valve.
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Installing the new valve
Now, lift the tank away from the bowl and lay it upside down on a rug or newspaper to protect it. Unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank, using locking pliers and penetrating oil. Clamp a padded locking plier or wrench around the valve to keep it from rotating.
Install the new flush valve according to the directions. The rubber gasket goes inside the tank to prevent leakage, and the flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage. Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, tightening them enough to compress the tank’s soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.
Finally, reconnect the tank to the bowl, and turn the water supply back on. Check for any leaks, and tighten any connections if necessary.
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Securing the bolts and washers
Now, you are ready to secure the bolts and washers. First, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts beneath. If the bolts do not budge without force, try using plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If this does not work, wrap masking tape around a hacksaw blade and saw with the teeth facing you so that the blade cuts on the 'pull' stroke.
Once the old bolts are removed, you can install the new brass tank hold-down bolts. Tighten these bolts just enough to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket and prevent leakage. The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank, while the flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage.
Finally, check your state and local codes, and follow all safety precautions before testing your new flush valve.
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Frequently asked questions
If the flush handle doesn't flush the toilet, the toilet valve assembly has likely become loose. You can try to fix this by tightening the bolt that holds the assembly to the handle. If that doesn't work, you will need to replace the flush valve.
Flush valves are held to the tank by one large jam nut on the bottom of the tank. To remove the old flush valve, first turn off the water supply and flush the toilet. Hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the water from the tank. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water. Disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the flexible riser tube is damaged, replace it. Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve.
Install the new flush valve according to the directions provided with the product. The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent leakage. The flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage. Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, tightening them just enough to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.
