Omar Khalid
Clamps are essential for any woodworking project, but they can be challenging to use effectively, especially when working with materials like plastic. A plastic workbench can be a great, cost-effective option for hobbyists and professionals alike, but clamping onto this surface presents unique challenges. In this discussion, we will explore the best methods and tricks for clamping onto a plastic workbench, ensuring your projects are secure and efficient. From choosing the right type of clamp to innovative techniques for stabilizing your workpiece, we will cover everything you need to know to master clamping on a plastic workbench.
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What You'll Learn
Using pipe clamps
Pipe clamps are strong, cheap, and easy to source, making them a great option for your plastic workbench. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to use pipe clamps:
First, decide on the placement of your pipe clamps. You can attach them to the end of your workbench, or along the sides, depending on your needs and preferences.
Next, you will need to drill holes in your workbench. For a 1/2-inch pipe thread, use a 3/4-inch drill bit to create holes that are slightly larger than the pipe thread. This will ensure a snug fit for your pipe clamps. Drill the holes in the desired locations, making sure they are at the correct height. Too low, and the clamp head will not be above the workbench top.
After drilling, tap the holes with a pipe tap that matches the size of your pipe thread. In the case of a 1/2-inch pipe thread, use a 1/2-inch pipe tap. Tapping the holes creates threads in the wood that will hold the pipe securely. Drill deeper than the normal thread depth to give the threads more holding strength.
Now, you can screw the pipe clamps into the tapped holes. If using 1/2-inch pipe clamps, screw a threaded section of the pipe into the tapped hole, and then attach a pipe-clamp head to the other end of the pipe. This will allow you to secure your workpieces firmly.
With the pipe clamps in place, you can now use them to hold your workpieces securely. Depending on your needs, you can install a clamp perpendicular to the workbench top to hold items down, or use the clamps as a side vise. Additionally, by utilizing drilled and tapped holes on the opposite side of the workbench, you can attach the quick-release end of the pipe clamp to hold items that are wider than the workbench top.
By following these steps, you can effectively use pipe clamps on your plastic workbench, adding versatility and improving your workflow.
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Adding a clamp rack
First, gather your materials and finalize your design. Cut a strip of plywood to the desired length for your main shelf, usually around 4 inches wide. Miter several angled support blocks to fit under the shelf and drill pocket holes in these blocks. You can also cut two blocks and drill holes to create a holder for a plastic roll if you plan to include one.
Next, assemble the clamp rack. Secure the blocks to the underside of the shelf using wood glue and nails, ensuring all pocket holes face the back for later installation. Attach the long shelf to your workbench using pocket hole screws. Mount your parallel clamps and spring clamps on this shelf.
Now, add the finishing touches. Attach blocks for one-hand trigger clamps to the back wall, staggering their height for better space utilization. Include smaller blocks in the middle section for ratcheting clamps of various sizes. If you included a plastic roll in your design, attach one block to the back wall and another to the side wall. Don't forget to nail the hardboard in place and add the cutting strip and plastic roll on the dowel.
Finally, double-check that your clamp rack is stable and secure. Test the placement and weight of your clamps, reinforcing any weak areas as needed. Install corner blocks along the lower section using pocket hole screws and add angle clamps to these blocks. You can also attach a block beside the angle clamps to hold table clamps.
To maximize the efficiency of your clamp rack, arrange your clamps based on frequency of use, with the most commonly used ones at eye level. Label sections of the rack for quick identification and keep the surrounding area clear for easy access. Regular maintenance is important, so inspect your clamps and racks for wear and tear to ensure they remain in top condition.
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Clamping mitered edges
Painter's Tape as Clamps:
A simple and effective method is to use painter's tape instead of clamps. Arrange the pieces so that the outer edges are facing upwards and tape them edge-to-edge. Then, flip the pieces over so the bevelled edges are facing up and glue them together. Finally, tape the last two edges together and let it sit. The tape can be easily removed, and the glue won't stick to it, making sanding and finishing easier.
Blue Tape Technique:
Blue tape is another alternative to clamps for mitered edges. It has enough stretch to squeeze out excess glue, ensuring a tight fit. The tape perfectly aligns the miter and prevents glue squeezout to the exterior. This method is easier than using clamps, especially for long mitered edges.
Temporary Clamp Blocks:
Another approach is to use temporary clamp blocks with the correct angles to achieve 90-degree clamping. You can glue or double-side tape these blocks in place and then saw, chisel, or sand them off after the glue dries. This method provides good pressure in the right spot, ensuring a strong joint.
Miter Off-Cuts:
Miter off-cuts can be glued to a piece of scrap MDF and used as clamping cauls. These cauls can be reused multiple times. Drill a nail hole to hang them up when not in use. Position the cauls to apply clamping pressure across the centre of the joint for effective clamping.
Reinforcing the Joint:
When gluing mitered edges, it's important to reinforce the joint to ensure a strong bond. Apply glue to all the end-grain parts, wait a few minutes, and then apply a second coat before assembly. You can also use Domino slip tenons, biscuits, or splines to reinforce the joint and keep parts aligned during clamping.
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Using a bench hook
A bench hook is a portable work surface that makes basic woodworking tasks, such as cross-cutting boards and drilling holes, easier to perform. It also helps protect the surface of your workbench from bumps and scratches.
To use a bench hook, place it on the edge of the workbench with one fence facing downwards to secure the hook in place. Place the workpiece against the upper fence and lean on it slightly—your weight should hold the workpiece steady. Slide the cut line over the edge of the board and secure it with a clamp if necessary. Hold the workpiece and saw away.
Bench hooks can be modified to accommodate pull saws: move the two fences so they lay against the same edge. This means that the action of pulling the saw pushes the workpiece against the fence, helping to keep control of the work and work safely.
You can also rip the bench hook down the middle with a hand saw or table saw to create a support hook for long workpieces.
When building a bench hook, it is recommended to use wood instead of particleboard. Particleboard gets stripped over time, causing the wood stops to wiggle and break off.
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Clamping to the bench's leg
Clamping onto the leg of a plastic workbench is a good way to stabilise your work. Positioning your board over a workbench leg will reduce the amount of flex in the bench when you're chiselling, giving you better results.
If your workbench is just plywood screwed to 2x4s, it will move around with one clamp. A sturdier workbench will be better for heavy chiselling. You can try clamping the work in a handscrew, then clamping the handscrew to the bench.
Holdfasts are another good option for a hand tool bench. You can use a #12 auger to set the dogholes. If you want to hold the workbench on its end, you can stick it in a couple of hand screws or clamp it down with a holdfast.
If the slab and legs of the workbench are co-planar, the use of a stop and holdfasts through the legs will work well.
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Frequently asked questions
Position your board over a workbench leg to minimize flexing. You can also use a quick-release cast iron vice or a holdfast on a hand tool bench.
Cut your workpiece slightly longer than needed, fit the parts, then drill holes near the ends. Glue and screw the pieces together, adding clamps in the middle if needed. Once the glue dries, cut off the ends.
Cut a strip of plywood to the desired length for your main shelf. Miter angled support blocks to fit under the shelf and drill pocket holes in them. Secure the blocks to the underside of the shelf using glue and nails. Mount clamps on the shelf and attach blocks for a plastic roll to the back and side walls.
Use pipe clamps, which are strong, cheap, and easy to source. You can also use bar clamps, but hang them on horizontal scraps of wood to keep them organized. For small or delicate objects, use modeling clay to hold the pieces together while the glue dries.
