Ethan Clarke
Plastic septic tanks are an essential part of a home's wastewater management system. Before installing a plastic septic tank, it is crucial to carefully plan the entire system, taking into account factors such as property boundaries, soil type, and local regulations. Installing a septic tank typically requires professional involvement to ensure compliance with regulations and avoid future legal issues. However, for those considering a DIY approach, it is important to understand the critical steps involved in the installation process. This includes obtaining permits, conducting soil tests, designing the system, selecting a suitable location, and, most importantly, properly connecting the pipes to the septic tank.
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What You'll Learn
Planning and permits
To initiate the permitting process, it is often necessary to submit an application along with detailed information about the proposed septic system installation. This may include the landowner's name and address, the location and size of the lot, the number of occupants and bedrooms, water usage amounts, and the presence of any basement plumbing fixtures. Some jurisdictions may also require a rough sketch of the property, including the location of the house site, well, spring, planned driveway, and utilities.
In addition to the application, a site evaluation or soil assessment may be required to determine the suitability of the land for a septic system. This evaluation may include a survey of the lot, a soil analysis in the proposed disposal area, and other criteria necessary to ascertain the feasibility of installing an OSSF system. In some cases, backhoe pits may be necessary for soil evaluation, depending on the location of the site.
Once the application and site evaluation are complete, the permitting authority will review the submission and either approve or deny the request. If the permit is approved, the applicant can proceed with installing the septic system, adhering to any conditions and regulations outlined in the permit. However, if the permit is denied, the applicant has the right to appeal the decision and discuss alternative options with the permitting authority.
It is important to note that the permitting process may vary depending on the region and specific regulations. Therefore, it is always advisable to contact the local permitting authority or seek guidance from a licensed professional to ensure compliance with all applicable laws and requirements.
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Choosing the right tank
Concrete tanks are very bulky and heavy, so moving them takes specialized equipment. Concrete septic tanks come with a higher upfront investment than plastic tanks and require heavy machinery for installation. Concrete tanks require more labour at the job site, which adds to the installation cost. Concrete is quite sturdy, and there is zero risk of collapse when pumping.
Plastic septic tanks are lightweight and easy to install. They are resistant to corrosion and rust and can last for up to 40 years. Plastic tanks are available in different sizes and shapes, making them suitable for different properties. Plastic tanks are quite a bit cheaper to buy than concrete tanks. Since they are simpler to work on, you'll also find that your repair bills will probably be a little lower if you pick a plastic tank. Once the tank is at the end of its lifespan, a concrete tank will continue to cost you more than a plastic tank. Plastic tanks are a common alternative to concrete tanks and are typically oblong shapes with a ridged wall. The ribbed wall provides the strength to withstand inside and outside stresses in the ground. Plastic is not chemically reactive and, therefore, resistant to rust and corrosion, unlike steel and concrete tanks.
However, plastic tanks have some limitations that require consideration. Plastic tanks are very lightweight. The tanks cannot handle as much effluent as their concrete counterparts. Plastic tanks can float out of position if the water table rises. Plastic tanks require more pumping and can collapse inwards or warp when pumping. Plastic is more vulnerable to environmental changes. Things like soil vibrations or growing tree roots can cause a plastic tank to break. Consequently, plastic tanks often need more repairs than concrete tanks.
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Preparing the site
Site Selection and Permits
Select a suitable location for your septic tank and drain field, taking into account local regulations and guidelines. Contact your local health department or building regulatory office to obtain the necessary permits and understand the specific rules regarding septic systems in your area. Ensure that you have the required permits before starting any excavation or installation work.
Soil Testing
Have a professional conduct a soil test, also known as a percolation test, to determine the soil's absorption capacity. This test is crucial in deciding the size and type of septic tank and drainage field needed. The results of the percolation test will help you design an appropriate septic system for your home, ensuring that the ground is suitable for a plastic tank and identifying any necessary structural precautions.
Site Survey
Obtain a site survey to identify your property boundaries. This is essential to ensure that your septic system placement complies with regulations regarding the proximity of wastewater flow to your neighbour's property. Understand the regulations concerning the distance from your home, property lines, water sources, and wells.
Excavation
Choose a site with good sub-soil drainage and allow for adequate clearance around the tank. Prepare the bedding for the tank by providing a well-compacted or undisturbed layer of sand, gravel, or clean granular soil. Shape the bedding to suit the underside of the tank, ensuring proper placement and compacting backfill around the lower half of the tank.
Electrical Considerations
If you have a pumped plastic septic tank, you will need to install a pump chamber. Consult a licensed electrician to ensure that the electrical aspects of the pump comply with state regulations. Address any specific requirements for regions with high groundwater levels, which may impact the pump's functionality.
Remember, preparing the site for a plastic septic tank installation is a complex process, and it is recommended to seek professional assistance to ensure compliance with regulations and safe installation practices.
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Connecting the pipes
The first step in connecting the pipes is to ensure proper placement and sizing. This includes identifying the inlet and outlet ports, which should be oriented correctly before placing the tank. Tees must be installed at both the inlet and outlet ports to prevent solid waste from entering the drain field. The top of the tee should have a short pipe attached, extending the opening above the scum layer, while the bottom of the tee should extend below the scum layer or about 2 feet below the tee. This can be achieved by gluing a length of 4-inch pipe or installing a septic tee pipe with an internal filter.
When connecting the pipes to the tees, it is important to use glue or adhesive to create a watertight seal. Some plumbers also install a grate on the upper portion of the tee to keep out debris, but this is not mandatory. Under no circumstances should a grate be installed on the lower portion, as it will clog the pipes. If the slope between the trenches for the waste and drain pumps is gentle, the pipes can be glued directly to the tee. However, if the slope is steep, it is advisable to glue a 22 1/2-degree bend onto the tee to ensure a secure connection.
To prevent stripping, hand-tighten the threads several turns to ensure proper alignment. Check for leaks when the tank is filled, and tighten only enough to stop any leaks. Over-tightening can strip the pipe threads or crack the bulkhead fittings, requiring replacement. Additionally, consider applying a root-killing chemical to the joint before burying the pipe, ensuring it is not corrosive to metal or concrete.
It is important to note that plumbing can be complex, and professional installers have the necessary knowledge and training to properly connect pipes and ensure compliance with regulations. They also have access to specialised equipment that most homeowners lack. Therefore, consulting a professional is always recommended to avoid costly mistakes and legal issues.
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Sealing the pipes
Firstly, understand the role of tees. Tees are essential components in a septic tank system as they help prevent solid waste from entering the drain field. They direct waste downward and allow sewer gases to escape through the top. Tees should be installed at both the inlet and outlet ports, with the top extending above the scum layer and the bottom extending below it or about 2 feet below the tee.
When installing the tees, consider using an adhesive. While it is not always necessary, it is a good idea to use a bead of butyl or silicone caulk around the perimeter of the tee on both sides of the tank to ensure a secure seal. Additionally, some plumbers choose to install a grate on the upper portion of the tee to catch debris, but this is optional. Just make sure to never install a grate on the lower portion, as it will clog the pipes.
Next, connect the pipes to the tees. You can glue the pipes directly to the tees if the slope is gentle. However, if the slope is steep, consider gluing a 22 1/2-degree bend onto the tee to create a watertight connection. Gluing the pipes is crucial, as not doing so can lead to the tee becoming detached and falling into the tank, requiring professional services for repair.
In some tanks, you may find a rubber insert or a thin concrete casting that needs to be knocked out to insert the pipe. To seal the connection, you can use tar, concrete, or expanding foam. Ensure that you do not insert the pipe too deeply, as you do not want it to contact the baffle. Additionally, be cautious of the spacing or annulus between the pipe and the cowling, as you may need to use a gasket or sealing foam to fill the gap.
Finally, check for leaks. Once the tank is filled, carefully inspect for any leaks and tighten the connections just enough to stop them. Over-tightening can lead to stripped pipe threads or cracked bulkhead fittings, resulting in the need for replacements.
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Frequently asked questions
Tees should be installed at both the inlet and outlet ports to prevent solid waste from entering the drain field. The top of the tee should have a short pipe attached to extend the opening above the scum layer in the tank, while the bottom of the tee should extend below the scum layer or about 2 feet below the tee. You can glue a length of 4-inch pipe to the tee or install a septic tee pipe with an internal filter.
There are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system. Firstly, you should conduct a site survey to identify your property boundaries and ensure your septic system placement complies with regulations regarding how close wastewater can flow underground to your neighbour's property. Secondly, you should conduct a percolation test on the soil to determine whether the ground is suitable for a plastic tank and what type of structural precautions are required. Thirdly, you should submit your designs and applications for permits and approvals required by your local government, complying with plumbing and building codes. Finally, you should select a suitable location for your septic tank and drain field, taking into account local regulations regarding distance from the home, property lines, water sources, and wells.
It is important to glue the pipes to the tees to prevent the tee from becoming detached and falling into the tank, which would require professional services to fix. When tightening the pipes, excessive tightening may strip the pipe threads or crack the bulkhead fittings, so only tighten just enough to stop any leaks. To prevent leaks, you can use a bead of butyl or silicone caulk around the perimeter of the tee on both sides of the tank.
You can use a flexible rubber pipe connector (Fernco donut) or mortar the pipe to the tank using hydraulic cement. Alternatively, you can use oakum and tar, butyl rubber, or a link-seal, which has been an industry standard for many years.
