Sofia Martinez
There are several ways to copy a plastic part, and the best method depends on the desired quality, quantity, and available tools. For small quantities, 3D printing is a good option, although it may require additional smoothing with acetone or isopropanol. For higher quantities, creating a silicone mould and casting resin parts is a good option, although it requires more preparation and curing time. Other methods include resin casting, injection moulding, and CNC machining.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Techniques | 3D printing, 3D scanning, CNC machining, injection moulding, resin casting, silicone moulding |
| Cost | 3D printers cost $300 to $600 |
| Time | 3D printing is quick, but removing layer lines is time-consuming; mould-making and moulding is time-consuming |
| Quality | 3D printing may not achieve a smooth finish; moulding can create indistinguishable copies |
| Ease | 3D scanning requires skill; moulding requires forethought about design |
| Use case | 3D printing is suitable for small runs; moulding is suitable for high-quality, precise parts |
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What You'll Learn
3D scanning and printing
Scanning the Object
Firstly, you will need to scan the plastic part to create a digital 3D model. There are various methods to do this, including using a 3D scanner or a camera. If you are using a 3D scanner, dedicated 3D scanners can capture intricate details, but you may still need to edit the scanned data using software. Alternatively, you can use a camera to take multiple photos of the object from different angles and then use software to stitch these images together to create a 3D model. This method may be more accessible, but it could struggle to capture intricate details.
Processing the Scan
Once you have the scan, you will need to process it using software to create a watertight mesh file. This means ensuring that the 3D model is sealed, with no holes, and all parts are properly connected. Software like Geomagic Design X and FlexScan3D can assist in creating watertight .stl files from 3D scan data. This step is crucial, as a bad file can ruin your print and waste time and resources.
Printing the Object
With your processed 3D model, you can now use a 3D printer to create a copy of your plastic part. Depending on the size and complexity of the object, you may need to use a specific type of 3D printer. For example, small and intricate objects may require an SLS printer instead of an FDM printer. Additionally, consider the material you will be printing with. Thermoplastics, for example, can be used to create functional parts but may not look exactly like the original.
Post-Processing the Print
Finally, once your part is printed, you may need to post-process it to achieve the desired finish. This could involve smoothing the surface with acetone or isopropanol to remove the layer lines associated with 3D printing. If you require an extremely smooth finish, you may need to consider using a mould and casting resin, which can create almost indistinguishable copies of the original part.
Overall, 3D scanning and printing can be a useful method for copying plastic parts, but it may require some trial and error, as well as access to the right tools and software.
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Using silicone moulds
Silicone moulds are widely used for their extreme degree of detail duplication and the flexibility to construct moulds in different ways. The process of using silicone moulds to copy a plastic part can be broken down into four steps.
Firstly, build a box and secure your part with casting pour spouts. Using a hot glue gun and pieces of square-cut foam core boards, or any inexpensive rigid flat material, construct a five-sided box with an open top and fully-sealed seams. Ensure that the box is large enough so that when the plastic part is placed in the centre, there is at least 0.5" clearance all around and above the part. This ensures that the silicone mould will have enough thickness and won't risk tearing. Secure the plastic part inside the box with hot glue, or if the part doesn't have a flat bottom, adhere cylindrical dowels to the base of the box and then attach the part to the other end of the dowels.
Secondly, mix and pour the silicone. A two-part platinum cure silicone is recommended. Mix equal parts of the silicone and pour slowly into the open top of the box, ensuring the silicone falls in a thin stream that hits the inner bottom surface of the box (not directly onto the plastic part). Pouring the silicone slowly and evenly helps to prevent large bubbles from forming in the silicone as it cures into rubber.
Thirdly, once the silicone has cured, cut open the mould and remove the plastic part. The mould can be cut in half with a knife, creating a parting line that assures the alignment of the two sides of the mould.
Finally, the mould is ready to be used for casting reproductions. The space left behind by the dowels, if used, will create a spout hole for pouring in the casting material. It is important to note that a release agent should be added wherever the two sides of the mould will touch, to prevent them from sticking together.
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Casting resin parts
To begin the casting process, you must first create an original piece. This can be done using a CNC, 3D printer, ball of modelling clay, or scalpel. Once you have your original piece, you can make a mould. Single-sided moulds are the easiest to make but limit the type of detail that can be captured. Two-sided moulds are more complex and time-consuming but can produce highly detailed parts. It is also possible to make even more complex moulds using three or more sections. Plastic sheets can be used to make cheap and easy mould forms.
When creating a mould, it is important to consider the design and think about how to eliminate places where air bubbles can become trapped. Bubbles are a common issue when casting resin, so it is recommended to use a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone and resin before casting. This process involves placing the resin or silicone under a vacuum, causing the liquid material to foam as air bubbles expand and pop. However, vacuum degassing is not suitable for all resins, especially those with quick setting times.
After degassing, the resin is poured into the mould. It is important to pour the resin as high and as thin a stream as possible to further break up any remaining bubbles. Once the mould is filled, it is placed into a pressure chamber to allow the resin part to cure. The pressure helps to compress any remaining air trapped in the mould, ensuring a smooth finish on the final cast part.
Polyester resin is typically the cheapest and easiest resin to find at craft stores. However, it has a strong odour and requires proper ventilation during use. Most polyester resins also require mixing with a concentrated catalyst, which is highly toxic and caustic. Therefore, it is crucial to prioritise safety measures when working with resin.
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CNC machining
There are three main CNC machining methods: CNC drilling, CNC turning, and CNC milling. Each method has its own unique guidelines and applications. CNC drilling involves using a drill bit to drill holes into a plastic block. It is important to use sharp drill bits to prevent tooling problems and performance issues. CNC turning involves holding a plastic piece in place on a lathe and rotating it against the cutting tool. Different forms of CNC turning, such as straight or cylindrical turning and taper turning, create unique shapes. CNC milling uses a cylindrical rotating tool called a milling cutter to remove material from a solid workpiece. 3-axis mills are best for simpler designs, while multi-axis mills are more suitable for complex geometries.
When CNC machining plastic parts, it is important to understand the unique challenges posed by plastics. Plastics can be prone to poor surface finishes and dimensional changes. Overcompressing the part during machining can lead to impressions or deformation. Additionally, softer plastics may "flow" around the cutting tool instead of forming chips, while harder plastics can fracture unpredictably. It is crucial to research and experiment with specific plastics to understand their behaviour during machining.
To copy a plastic part using CNC machining, follow these general steps:
- Create a detailed CAD (Computer-Aided Design) model of the part, defining dimensions and tolerances accurately.
- Convert the CAD model into a CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing) file to generate G-code, which instructs the CNC machine on cutting, moving, and shaping.
- Mount the plastic material onto the CNC machine, ensuring proper material selection and secure mounting.
- The CNC machine follows the G-code to mill, drill, or turn the material, accurately replicating the CAD design.
- Inspect the final part for quality and precision.
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Injection moulding
The process begins with raw plastic material in the form of granules or tiny pellets being fed through a hopper and melted at high heat. When the plastic is soft enough, it is injected under pressure into a single or multi-cavity mould to produce the desired shape or shapes. The plastic is then left to cool and harden, after which the injection mould is opened and the new plastic component is released using moving rods, plates, or an air blast.
The mould consists of two separate parts: the injection mould, which shapes the plastic, and the ejector mould, which pushes the solidified product out of the machine. The moulds are made from strong tool metals such as steel or aluminium to withstand heavy use and are precision-designed by engineers to fit their exact purpose.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to copy a plastic part. You can use a 3D scanner to scan the part and then print it using a 3D printer. You can also create a mould of the part and then cast it in resin or epoxy putty. If you don't have access to a 3D scanner or printer, you can measure the part and remake it using CAD software.
There are a few different ways to create a mould for a plastic part. One way is to use silicone. You can pour silicone around the original part to create a mould, making sure to avoid any air bubbles. You can then cast the plastic part using resin or epoxy putty. Another way to create a mould is to use a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone and resin before casting, and a pressure chamber to allow the resin part to cure.
To get a smooth finish on a 3D printed plastic part, you can use acetone or isopropanol to smooth out the layer texture. You can also cast the part in a silicone mould to create a smooth and polished finish.
