
Soft plastic lures have been used since the plastic worm was introduced in 1951, and have since expanded to include paddle-tail, forked-tail, and ribbon-tail designs, as well as plastic grubs and salamanders. Designing your own soft plastic lures can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to connect with your fishing on a deeper level and providing a sense of pride when catching a fish with your creation. The process involves crafting molds, blending unique colours, and pouring soft plastics. The fishing lure's body shape is the most important design consideration, with concepts such as natural resemblance, centre of gravity, frontal resistance, and stationary action being crucial to maximising the lure's fish-catching ability. For example, the soft plastic shad or minnow design features a small nose, a larger body, and a flat rounded tail, allowing the lure to move through the water with ease and create a lifelike movement.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Clay or polyurethane resin, hard plastic resin, plastisol, pigment, glitter, scent, worm oil, and a mold |
| Molds | Can be crafted by hand or bought; should resemble a living thing at rest and in motion |
| Plastisol | Available in soft, medium, and hard varieties; the softer the plastic, the more action it will have but the quicker it will tear off the hook |
| Temperature | Optimal temperature varies by Plastisol manufacturer but is somewhere between 300-400 degrees |
| Tools | Pyrex cup, microwave, thermometer, butter knife, measuring spoons, probe thermometer, etc. |
| Safety | Safety glasses, heat-resistant gloves, good air circulation |
| Design | Body shape is the most important design consideration; other concepts to consider include natural resemblance, center of gravity, frontal resistance, and stationary action |
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What You'll Learn

Choosing a liquid Plastisol
When choosing a liquid Plastisol, you will be faced with a wide range of options. Plastisol is typically available in soft, medium, and hard varieties, with some brands also offering saltwater options. You can also find blends such as soft/medium or medium/hard. The type of Plastisol you choose will depend on your specific needs and preferences. If you want your lure to have more action, go for a softer plastic, but keep in mind that it will tear off the hook more easily. For a balance between action and durability, a medium plastic is a good choice.
You can purchase Plastisol in different sizes, with quart-size containers being a great trial size before committing to a specific brand. When cooking your Plastisol, you will need a microwave and a glass or Pyrex measuring cup. It is important to use a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the Plastisol, as it needs to be within a specific range—typically between 300-400 degrees—to achieve the desired results. If heated beyond this range, the Plastisol may turn yellow.
To enhance the appearance of your lure, you can add colorants, glitters, and scents to the Plastisol. These additional components can be purchased separately, allowing you to experiment with different colors, scents, and levels of glitter to create unique and attractive lures. It is important to stir the mixture well after adding any extra components to ensure they are evenly distributed.
Before pouring the Plastisol into your mold, it is recommended to brush a light coat of worm oil into the mold cavities. This will help ensure a smooth and easy release once the lure has cooled and set. With the right supplies and a bit of creativity, you can design and create custom soft plastic lures that are both effective and satisfying.
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Creating a mould
First, you need to decide on the shape and design of your lure. Using clay or polyurethane resin, create a model of your desired lure shape. This step allows you to visualise and refine the design before finalising the mould. Consider factors such as natural resemblance, centre of gravity, frontal resistance, and stationary action when designing your lure.
Once you are satisfied with your clay or resin model, it's time to prepare a container. Place the model in the container and superglue it in place to ensure it doesn't move during the moulding process. You can use a simple container, such as an old baking pan, for this purpose.
Now, you will pour the hard plastic resin into the container around your model. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for preparing and pouring the hard plastic resin. It usually takes about a day for the resin to cure and become a usable mould.
If you want to get more creative, you can make your mould by hand. One method involves using Fimo (a type of modelling clay) to create the rough shape of the lure body and then baking it. After baking, you can use a Dremel tool and sandpaper to refine the shape and smooth out any imperfections. This process allows you to create a custom master for your mould.
Another creative approach to mould-making involves using plasticine and Duplo bricks. First, create a block of plasticine that serves as the core of your mould. Then, use the Duplo bricks to build up the sides of the mould around the plasticine block. Seal the edges with plasticine to ensure a good seal. You can also add ball bearings to create locating lugs for the two halves of the mould. Once you are satisfied with the setup, coat the mould with a light layer of Vaseline to ensure the finished lure releases well.
Remember, creating a mould for a soft plastic lure can be a fun and rewarding process. It allows you to customise your fishing experience and experiment with different designs and materials. Always prioritise safety by working in a well-ventilated area and wearing protective gear, such as gloves and goggles, when handling hot plastic or resin.
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Melting and pouring the plastic
Melting and pouring plastic is a rewarding way to pass the time and allows you to connect with your fishing on a deeper level. It is also a very affordable hobby to take up, with all the necessary equipment costing less than $100.
To melt and pour plastic, you will first need to make a mould. You can do this by hand with either metal or hard plastic. You can also use clay or polyurethane resin to make a model of what you want your lure to look like, then pour a hard plastic resin around it. Once you have your mould, you can begin the process of melting and pouring the plastic.
First, choose a suitable workspace with good ventilation. Put on protective gear, such as gloves and goggles, to protect yourself from spills and burns. Put your mould on a heat-resistant surface, such as an old baking pan. If you are making more than one lure, you can arrange several moulds on the pan. Spray the mould cavities with cooking spray to make it easier to remove the lure from the mould after it cools and solidifies.
Next, melt your plastic. Fill a microwave-safe measuring cup, such as a Pyrex cup, halfway full of plastic resin. If you are melting down old soft plastic lures, put them in the cup instead of the resin. Microwave the resin in 30-second increments until it is clear. As the resin heats, it will first thicken and then thin, changing from a milky white to clear. Stop heating at once if you see smoke. Remove the cup of melted plastic from the microwave.
Now, you can add your desired colour and any glitter to the mix and stir well. Put the mixing cup back in the microwave for another 30 seconds or so before giving it one final stir. Check the temperature of the plastic with a thermometer. Optimal temperatures vary by manufacturer but are typically between 300-400 degrees. The plastic will start to turn yellow if it is heated beyond this range.
Finally, pour the plastic into your mould. Before pouring, brush a light coat of worm oil into the mould cavities. This will help prevent the plastic from making a mess and make it easier to remove the lure from the mould.
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Trimming and curing the lure
Trimming the Lure:
Trimming the excess plastic from your soft plastic lure is a crucial step in customising its shape and design. Firstly, transfer the lure to a cookie sheet or a baking pan. Using a craft knife, scissors, or even a pizza cutter, carefully trim off any excess plastic. Be sure to collect the excess plastic shavings as you go. These shavings can be reused by melting them down and adding them to your next lure, or you can add them to the current lure at the end to create highlights, especially if you are using a contrasting colour.
When trimming, it is important to only remove a small sliver of plastic with each cut, especially when working on the tail. This is because it is easier to take weight and bulk off the lure, but harder to put it back if you remove too much. Try to avoid square-edged cuts, as these can make the tail look unnatural and blocky. Instead, round out and bevel the edges with smaller, careful cuts to create a more natural and aesthetically pleasing look.
Curing the Lure:
Once you have finished trimming and are happy with the shape of your lure, it is time to cure it. Carefully remove the lure from the mould once it has cooled and set. Use a butter knife to help you with this step and to trim away any remaining excess material. Place the lure in a pan of water for approximately 15 minutes to cure it. Once cured, you have created your own custom soft plastic bait!
You can now repeat the process as many times as you like, experimenting with different colours, glitters, and even scents to create a unique set of lures.
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Understanding design concepts
Understanding the design concepts behind soft plastic lures is essential for creating effective artificial bait. Here are some key concepts to consider:
Natural Resemblance
Natural resemblance refers to designing artificial lures that imitate naturally occurring prey for fish. This involves not only the visual appearance but also the movement of the lure in the water. For example, a plastic worm should resemble a real worm, both in its physical characteristics and its motion when retrieved through the water. This principle applies to various other lure designs, such as plastic frogs, grubs, and salamanders.
Center of Gravity
The center of gravity of a lure is crucial in determining its movement and stability in the water. The placement of the hook and the design of the body, including the tail, antenna, fins, arms, and legs, all influence the center of gravity. Understanding this concept allows you to manipulate the lure's movement and create more lifelike actions.
Frontal Resistance and Stationary Action
Frontal resistance and stationary action are related concepts. Frontal resistance refers to the force exerted by the water on the lure as it moves through it. Different lure designs, such as crankbaits, have features that create frontal resistance, allowing them to dive or move in a specific way. Stationary action, on the other hand, refers to the lure's resemblance to a living creature both at rest and in motion. A lure with good stationary action will mimic the erratic or wounded motion of prey when retrieved through the water.
Body Shape and Water Resistance
The body shape of a soft plastic lure significantly affects its performance. The shape determines the water resistance it encounters and, consequently, its movement and action. For example, a soft plastic shad or minnow with a small nose and a flat, rounded tail will experience minimal resistance at the nose, allowing water to flow past smoothly. However, the wide tail creates more significant resistance, causing the tail and, subsequently, the entire lure to move with a desired action. Understanding water resistance and how it interacts with different body shapes is crucial for designing effective lures.
By grasping these design concepts, you can create soft plastic lures that not only resemble natural prey but also exhibit lifelike movements and actions, increasing your chances of success when fishing.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a mold, liquid plastisol, a microwave, a glass-measuring cup, safety equipment, and any additional items such as glitter, scent, and colourant.
You can buy a mold or make your own by hand. If you are buying a mold, make sure it is exactly what you want as they are very hard to change without damaging the mold. If you are making your own, you can use clay or polyurethane resin to make a model of your lure, then pour hard plastic resin around it.
Plastisol is typically available in soft, medium, and hard varieties. The softer the plastic, the more action it will have but the quicker it will tear off the hook. Try different Plastisols to see what works best for you.
Heat the plastisol in a microwave until it is clear, then add any colourant or glitter and stir. Put the mixing cup back in the microwave for another 30 seconds, give it a final stir, and then pour it into your mold.
The body shape of your lure is the most important design consideration. You should aim to imitate a naturally occurring item, such as a worm or a frog, that will move realistically when retrieved through the water.











































