Ethan Clarke
Hiding seams in plastic models can be done in a variety of ways, depending on the type of plastic and the size of the seam. One common method is to use a filler or putty, such as Evercoat Polyflex, Zap-A-Gap, lacquer putty, or modelling putty, to fill in the seam and then sand it smooth. Another method is to use a chemical weld, such as model cement or Tenax-7R, which melts the plastic and creates a strong bond. For organic models, water effects can be used to hide seams, and for thinner plastics that may flex, a generic filler like Bondo can be used.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Filler material | Evercoat Polyflex, Zap-A-Gap, Lacquer Putty, Bondo, Modelling Putty, Milliput, Green Stuff, Polystyrene Cement, Model Cement, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Academy Cement, Tenax-7R |
| Preparation | Prime styrene before applying filler |
| Application | Apply filler generously to both ends of the part to be joined, squeeze hard to create excess filler, which can be sanded down |
| Sanding | Use various grades of sandpaper, from rough to ultra-fine, in a well-lit area to spot imperfections |
| Additional steps | Use a polishing compound, apply water effects to hide seams, use a paintbrush to moisten the sanded area |
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Use modelling putty
Modelling putty is an effective method for hiding seams in plastic models, although it can be time-consuming. It is important to be careful when applying putty, as excess putty can hide surface details such as rivets and panel lines. When using modelling putty to hide seams, it is crucial to blend it in with the surrounding area and add modelling details so that it does not stand out as a smooth patch on your model.
For plastic model aircraft, it is recommended to use modelling putty to fill in any imperfections such as gaps, pits, or scratches. This can be done carefully with a toothpick. After applying the putty, the sanding process begins. It is important to be meticulous during this step, using various grades of sandpaper, such as 600ALO, 400ALO, 320SIL, and 150SIL, to smooth out the filled seams. Always sand under a strong light to accurately spot any rough areas.
Before sanding, it is helpful to moisten the area with a damp paintbrush. Once the sanding is complete, clean the model with water and dry it thoroughly. Check for any remaining rough patches and repeat the sanding process as needed. This process will help create a smooth and seamless finish on your plastic model.
When working with flexible ABS or HIPS plastic, using real ABS dissolved in acetone or "polystyrene cement" can provide the best results. Dissolved ABS is easier to work with than dissolved HIPS, and it is recommended to apply it in thin layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. However, this method requires careful storage in an airtight jar to prevent evaporation.
For thinner plastics that may flex, using autobody filler like Bondo might not be ideal as it can crack. Instead, consider using a liquid autobody filler like Evercoat Polyflex, which will flex without cracking. Epoxy putty is also recommended over Bondo due to its better adhesion and resistance to cracking.
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Sanding
Before beginning the sanding process, it is crucial to have the right tools and materials. You will need various grades of sandpaper, including coarse, medium, and fine grits. Sandpaper comes in different types, such as ALO (aluminium oxide) and SIL (silicon carbide). For plastic models, SIL paper is often preferred for its ability to smooth surfaces without causing scratches. Common grit sizes recommended for sanding plastic models include 600ALO, 400ALO, 320SIL, and 150SIL. Additionally, you may require sanding sticks, a hobby knife, a paintbrush, and a container of water.
Start by identifying any rough patches or imperfections on the model. If there are noticeable seams or joint lines, you can use a hobby knife to carefully scrape off any excess filling material. Be cautious not to dig too deeply, as you want to avoid creating new scratches or gouges. The goal is to create a smooth and even surface across the model.
Once the excess material has been removed, it's time to begin sanding. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper, such as 320SIL or 400ALO, and gently sand the area in a back-and-forth motion. Apply light to medium pressure, being careful not to press too hard, especially on thinner plastics. The goal is to gradually smooth out the seams and blend them into the surrounding surface. Always sand in the direction of the seam to avoid creating visible scratches.
After sanding with the coarse grit, progress to a finer grit sandpaper, such as 600ALO or 150SIL. This will help refine the surface further and remove any scratches left by the coarser sandpaper. Continue sanding until you achieve a smooth and consistent finish that blends seamlessly with the rest of the model.
Finally, once you are satisfied with the sanding, you can use a soft cloth or an old cotton t-shirt with a small amount of toothpaste to polish the area. This final step will help restore the shine to the plastic and ensure that the sanded area matches the rest of the model.
Remember, when sanding plastic models, it is essential to work gradually and carefully. Always start with a coarser grit and gradually move to finer grits to avoid creating new scratches or damaging the model. With patience and practice, you can master the art of sanding and create seamless and authentic-looking plastic models.
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Water effects
To use water effects to hide seams, start by choosing a water effects product that suits your needs. Different brands have different formulations, which behave differently. For example, Woodland is thicker and tackier, making it ideal for creating peaked textures like fur, while Vallejo is softer and better suited for rounded textures.
Once you've selected your water effects product, get an old brush that you don't mind messing up. Apply a generous amount of the water effects gel to completely cover the seams. Use enough gel to create ridges and valleys that mimic the veins and lumps of the model.
Leave the model undisturbed overnight to allow the gel to dry. The gel should dry transparent. Once it's dry, prime your model as you normally would. The water effects will have hidden the seams and added interesting detail to your model.
The water effects method is quick and easy, only taking a few seconds of work excluding drying time. It's also versatile and can be used to cover seams and other irregular surfaces on your models. Experiment with different brands and techniques to discover the best way to utilise water effects for your specific project.
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Welding with Tenax-7R
Styrene Tack-It II Adhesive, formerly known as Tenax-7R, is a plastic welder and bonder used for joining pieces of styrene plastic in modelling. It is a fast-acting adhesive, bonding styrene in about 5 seconds and acrylic in 10-12 seconds.
To weld with Tenax-7R, apply the adhesive with a fine-haired brush or Touch-N-Flow applicator to both ends of the parts you wish to join. Line up the parts and squeeze them together firmly. The excess adhesive that oozes out will form a putty-like substance. Once dry, sand the excess adhesive smooth to hide the seam.
Tenax-7R is a volatile solvent, so it is important to keep the cap on the bottle when not in use. For a slower drying time, you can mix 10-50% xylene with the product.
Compared to other adhesives, Tenax-7R is non-flammable, non-sniffable, non-sticky, and leaves no residue. It is also safe to use on flexible plastics without causing cracking. However, it may cause discolouration on the plastic where it is applied.
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Filler materials
When working with flexible ABS or HIPS, dissolving real ABS in acetone or "polystyrene cement" can provide the best results. Dissolving ABS in poly cement is a more expensive option but is ideal for the final layer. For those who want to avoid using fillers, there is an alternative method. This involves using model cement or super glue to join the plastic pieces, creating a chemical reaction that melts the plastic. By applying generous amounts of cement and squeezing the parts together, the excess cement that oozes out can be sanded smooth, effectively hiding the seam.
For model airplanes specifically, Tenax-7R is a fast-dry formula used for welding plastic scale model parts. It fuses the plastic by melting the parts together slightly. After drying, any excess chemical can be scraped off with a hobby knife, and model putty can be used to fill any remaining gaps, pits, or scratches. It is important to be cautious when using putty, as it can hide surface details if overapplied. Once the putty is applied, the model can be sanded using various grades of sandpaper, such as 600ALO, 400ALO, 320SIL, and 150SIL, to create a smooth and natural finish before painting.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several materials that can be used to hide seams in plastic models. These include:
- Modelling putty, such as Milliput or Green Stuff.
- Zap-A-Gap, a flexible superglue.
- Evercoat Polyflex, a liquid body filler.
- Bondo, an autobody filler.
- Lacquer putty.
There are several ways to hide seams in plastic models, depending on the type of model and the materials used. Here are some general steps to follow:
- Use tape to mask off the crack or opening to be filled.
- Apply a thin coat of putty and allow it to dry for about 30 minutes.
- Sand the area down to the level of the tape using various grades of sandpaper.
- If necessary, re-apply putty and repeat the drying and sanding process until you have a level surface.
- Remove the tape and begin fine sanding your work, being careful not to sand off too much material.
- Moisten the sanded area with water.
One way to hide seams in plastic models without using paint is to use a chemical welding process with model cement. Here are the general steps:
- Apply model cement generously to both ends of the parts you want to join.
- Line up the parts and squeeze them together hard, allowing excess cement to ooze out.
- Sand off the excess cement until the seam is smooth.
- Use gradual grades of smoother sandpaper until you are buffing the plastic.
- Optionally, use a polishing compound to further smooth the seam.
