Ethan Clarke
Vintage plastic jewelry, particularly Bakelite pieces from the Art Deco period, is highly collectible. To identify vintage plastic jewelry, you can test for specific types of plastic, such as Bakelite, Casein, and Lucite, using a variety of methods. These include observing the weight, colour, and presence or absence of mold seams, as well as applying heat, friction, or certain products like Simichrome Polish to induce a distinctive smell.
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What You'll Learn
Testing for Bakelite
One of the most popular tests for Bakelite is the ""hot water" smell test. This involves immersing the item in hot water and smelling it. If it is Bakelite, you should detect a chemical odour similar to formaldehyde. Another way to do the smell test is by vigorously rubbing the item to generate heat through friction and then smelling it. If it is Bakelite, you should detect the same formaldehyde scent.
The weight of the item is another factor to consider. Bakelite is relatively heavy for plastic, so it should feel heavy and substantial for its size. The distinctive "clunk" sound when two pieces of Bakelite are tapped together is another indication.
There are also chemical tests that can be performed to identify Bakelite. One such test is the 409 test, where a small amount of 409 cleaner is sprayed on a cotton swab and rubbed on the item. If the swab turns yellow, it is likely Bakelite. Similarly, the baking soda test involves dipping a cotton swab into baking soda and rubbing it on the item. Again, if the swab turns yellow, the test is positive for Bakelite.
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Identifying celluloid
Celluloid, also known as French Ivory, was one of the first plastics ever made, created in 1869 by John Wesley Hyatt. It is a semi-synthetic thermoplastic made from nitrocellulose and camphor. It was widely used in the 1800s and early 1900s to create a variety of products, including jewellery, pins, fountain pens, buttons, toys, and dolls, often as a substitute for ivory.
- Visual Inspection: Celluloid often resembles carved ivory or tortoise shell. It typically has soft pastel colours like white, pale pink, peach, and very pale yellow. You may also notice signs of decomposition, such as disintegration, cracks, or crystallization.
- Transparency: Hold the piece up to a bright light. Even if it is opaque or dyed, you should be able to see through vintage celluloid.
- Weight: Celluloid is very lightweight and thinner than other vintage plastics like Lucite and Bakelite.
- Smell: Celluloid has a distinct camphor smell due to its composition. If the camphor smell is absent, the piece is likely celluloid produced after 1927 when camphor was removed from the manufacturing process.
- Rubbing Method: Rub the piece vigorously between your fingers or with a cloth until it becomes warm, then smell it. If it emits a camphor or mothball odour, it is likely celluloid.
- Hot Water Method: Run hot water over the piece and then smell it. If it smells like camphor, it is probably celluloid.
- Sound: Vintage celluloid pieces produce a unique sound when struck or rubbed against another celluloid object. It is said to resemble the sound of a ping-pong ball bouncing on a table.
- Malleability: Vintage celluloid was hard and brittle, while modern celluloid tends to be more pliable and bendy.
It is important to note that some identification methods, such as the hot water test, may not be recommended for certain jewellery pieces, as they could potentially damage the item.
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Using hot water
The hot water test is simple: place the item of jewellery in hot water (not boiling) for about 15 seconds, then smell it. If it's genuine Bakelite, it should have a sweet, old chemical smell similar to formaldehyde. Bakelite was made from phenol formaldehyde, plus filler material, so it should give off this odour when placed in hot water.
It's important to note that this test should not be used on pieces with rhinestones, as the moisture can weaken the glue or cause water damage to the stones. Additionally, if metal findings are present, be sure to thoroughly dry the jewellery after testing to avoid rust.
While the hot water test is a standard method, it's not the only way to identify Bakelite. Other tests include listening for a distinctive "clunk" when two pieces of Bakelite are tapped together, examining the weight of the jewellery, and looking for signs of wear and tear such as scratches and patina.
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Weighing the item
Bakelite is a type of phenolic plastic, along with Catalin, which is another brand name for phenolic resin. These plastics are classified as thermosets, meaning they cannot be remelted and reformed once they have hardened. Other plastics, such as cellulose acetate and celluloid, are thermoplastics, which can be heated and softened multiple times to return them to a moldable state. The weight of these different types of plastics can vary, with thermoplastics like celluloid being lighter in weight than other plastics of similar size.
When trying to identify vintage plastic jewelry, it is important to consider the colour and appearance of the item as well. For example, celluloid jewelry is often lighter in weight and can be identified by its appearance, such as yellow pieces meant to simulate ivory with graining as an indicator. On the other hand, Bakelite comes in dark colours, usually black or dark brown, and is opaque, whereas Catalin can come in a variety of colours, including bright colours and marbling, and is often translucent.
In addition to weight, there are other tests that can be used to identify Bakelite jewelry. One test involves running the item under hot water and then smelling for a chemical odour similar to formaldehyde. This is because Bakelite omits a formaldehyde-like odour when rubbed vigorously or heated with hot water. Alternatively, a Q-tip with Simichrome, a benign jewellery polish, can be used to gently rub the surface of the item. If it turns rust-coloured, it is likely Bakelite, as Simichrome changes colour when it reacts with the chemicals in Bakelite.
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Checking for seams
When examining a piece of jewelry, carefully inspect its surface for any signs of seams or mold lines. Bakelite was cast into various shapes, giving it a sleek and uniform appearance without any visible seams. This characteristic is a notable contrast to other types of plastic jewelry, which often exhibit mold seams.
The presence of seams can be a telling sign that the piece is not made of Bakelite. However, it's important to note that the absence of seams alone does not definitively confirm that an item is Bakelite. Other tests, such as the hot water test, Simichrome Polish test, or weight comparison, should be used in conjunction with the seam check for a more conclusive identification.
While checking for seams is a valuable indicator, it's worth mentioning that some vintage plastics, like Catalin, which was used alongside Bakelite in the early 1900s, also exhibit a seamless appearance. Therefore, it's essential to employ a combination of tests to accurately identify the material of vintage plastic jewelry.
In summary, checking for seams is a critical step in identifying vintage plastic jewelry, especially Bakelite. The absence of seams is a distinctive feature of Bakelite jewelry, but further tests are necessary for conclusive identification. By employing multiple identification methods, collectors can more confidently determine the material composition of their vintage plastic jewelry pieces.
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Frequently asked questions
Bakelite, Catalin, and Casein are some of the most common types of plastics used in vintage jewelry.
There are several tests to identify Bakelite. One is the hot water test, where running hot water over the piece will cause it to release a formaldehyde scent. Another test involves using a product called Simichrome Polish—rubbing it on the item and then on a white rag will result in an ivory or yellow smear if it's Bakelite. Additionally, Bakelite is relatively heavy compared to other plastics, and it does not have mold seams.
Yes, it is strongly discouraged to test plastics with a hot needle as it can damage the item and some plastics may be flammable.
Bakelite was typically produced in black and dark brown colors due to the use of fillers such as cloth, paper, cotton, and asbestos.
To preserve the value of vintage plastic jewelry, it's important to clean and store it properly. Use a gentle dish soap and warm water to create a weak soap solution for cleaning. Carefully rinse and dry the item afterward.
