Chloe Zhang
Installing plastic baseboard molding is a great way to cover up unsightly joints and imperfections where the floor and drywall intersect. The process is similar to installing regular wood or MDF baseboards, but there are a few extra considerations to keep in mind due to the fragility of the plastic material. The first step is to decide on the type and style of baseboard you want, then measure your space and purchase the necessary materials, including extra in case of mistakes. Before attaching the baseboard to the wall, ensure the surface is clean and flat, and patch up any problem areas. Then, measure the length of each wall and cut the plastic baseboard molding to size using a finer-toothed saw to prevent chipping. Finally, attach the baseboard to the wall using adhesive or nails, ensuring a tight fit and filling any gaps with caulk or wood filler.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right type and style of baseboard
Flat Baseboards
Flat baseboards, also known as square baseboards, feature a basic, minimalist design with squared-off corners. They typically range from 3 to 5 inches in height and are well-suited for modern, minimalist, and Craftsman-style homes. Flat baseboards provide a simple look, allowing other moldings or room features to stand out. They can be paired with quarter-round or shoe molding for added detailing.
Sculpted Baseboards
Sculpted baseboards offer a more decorative look with a flat bottom section and a top section adorned with scallops, steps, or other ornamental details. They typically range from 4 to 7 inches in height and are suitable for Victorian, Colonial, Craftsman, and farmhouse-style homes, as well as homes with tall ceilings. Sculpted baseboards add a distinguished or elegant touch to the room.
Rounded or Stepped Baseboards
This style features a flat bottom with decorative grooves at the top, resembling small steps or a rounded half-moon. Rounded or stepped baseboards provide a modern and simple aesthetic without excessive details. A 3-inch height is a popular choice, as it offers a soft and decorative look that blends well with various design styles.
Bullnose Baseboards
Bullnose baseboards have a rounded top edge that tapers into the wall, creating a soft and distinguished appearance. They are often used in short profiles and simple designs but can also be more ornate. Bullnose baseboards typically range from 5/8 to 7/8 inches thick and 3 to 7 inches tall.
Flush Baseboards
Flush baseboards sit at the same depth as the wall surface, providing a streamlined appearance. They offer protection like traditional baseboards but with a more subtle look. Flush baseboards are well-suited for modern spaces and can save on floor space. However, they may be more challenging to install than other styles.
Material Considerations
In addition to style, the material of the baseboard is an important factor to consider. Common materials include wood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF), and synthetic options like PVC. Wood baseboards, particularly solid wood, are traditional and versatile, allowing for painting, staining, or showcasing the natural grain. MDF is an economical and popular choice for molding due to its moisture resistance and ease of painting. However, it may swell and warp if exposed to direct water contact. PVC baseboards are ideal for moisture-prone areas like bathrooms and basements, but they are challenging to repair and environmentally unfriendly.
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Preparing the wall surface
Firstly, ensure that the wall surface is clean and flat. Use a suitable cleaning agent to remove any residue, dust, or debris from the walls. It is important to ensure that the walls are completely dry before proceeding, as this will impact the adhesion of the moulding. If there are any uneven areas or imperfections on the wall, use a putty knife or spackle to patch and smooth these areas out, creating a flat surface.
Next, measure the length of each wall to determine the required length of the plastic base moulding. Mark the moulding pieces accordingly, allowing for any inside or outside corners. Remember to measure twice and cut once to ensure accuracy. When marking the moulding, use a miter box and a pencil to guide your cuts. Line up the cut marks with the appropriate slot in the miter box, which can be a 90-degree or 45-degree slot, depending on the angle required for your corners.
After marking the moulding, it's time to cut the pieces to size. Use a fine-toothed saw to prevent chipping and breaking, which is a common issue with plastic base moulding. A miter saw is an excellent tool for this step, as it allows you to make precise cuts at the marked angles. Cut the pieces slightly longer than needed, following the measurements you took earlier, and allowing for any necessary splicing or corner adjustments.
Before attaching the moulding to the wall, it is essential to determine the placement of the joints and ensure tight connections. Hold the cut moulding pieces against the wall and look for any gaps. To create tight joints, especially on crooked walls, cut braces from scrap baseboard with 45-degree angles on the ends. These braces will provide support and help fill any gaps. Additionally, when splicing two pieces of moulding in the middle of the wall, make sure the joint is over a stud to keep the ends tight and secure.
Finally, when you are happy with the fit of the moulding pieces, it's time to attach them to the wall. Apply adhesive to the back of the moulding, leaving a quarter-inch space at the top to prevent the adhesive from oozing onto the wall surface. Use a suitable adhesive that cures quickly and strongly, such as a fast-curing all-purpose adhesive. Place the moulding onto the wall, using a small hand roller to ensure solid adhesion.
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Cutting the baseboard
Preparation
Before cutting the plastic baseboard, ensure you have the right tools and have taken the necessary measurements. Measure the length of each wall to determine the required length for each piece of plastic baseboard. Mark the moulding pieces where cuts are needed. It is recommended to have a finer-toothed saw to prevent chipping and breaking, which is common with plastic baseboards. Suitable cutting tools include a miter saw, miter box, or coping saw.
Cutting Process
Place the moulding in a miter box, aligning the cut mark with the appropriate slot. The slots are typically 90-degree or 45-degree slots, either left or right. Cut the plastic baseboard using the chosen saw. When cutting, ensure you wear proper safety gear, including eye and ear protection.
Advanced Cutting Techniques
For inside corners, overlap the last piece of the board by about an inch to achieve a seamless look. Mark the cutting point with a pen, and use a wood chisel to create a V-shaped groove for snugly fitting the board around the corner. An alternative method is to wrap the board material around a small PVC tube to form the V-shaped groove.
For outside corners, use corner blocks and secure them with fast-curing adhesive. For clear finished baseboards with a prominent grain pattern, select pieces that match closely to ensure a consistent look.
Final Adjustments
After cutting the baseboard to length, hold it against the wall to check for gaps. Cut braces from scrap baseboard, typically 4- to 6-inch lengths, and angle the ends at 45 degrees. This helps fill any gaps and create a tight fit. If there are still gaps, seal them with a flexible trim sealant.
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Attaching the baseboard
When cutting the baseboard, use a finer-toothed saw to prevent chipping or breaking. Measure the length of each wall to determine the necessary length for each piece of baseboard. Mark the baseboard where you need to cut, and place it in a miter box, lining up the cut mark with the appropriate slot. Cut the baseboard using a miter saw.
When attaching the baseboard, you can use adhesive or nails. If using adhesive, apply it in the direction of the baseboard roll, leaving a quarter-inch space at the top of the base piece to prevent adhesive from oozing onto the wall. Use a small hand roller to ensure the piece sticks solidly. If using nails, use a trim gun to place the trim exactly where you want it. Ensure the nails are below the surface of the baseboard. If they are not, carefully hammer them until they are nearly flush, then use a nail set to push them below the surface.
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Finishing touches and fixing mistakes
Once you've installed your plastic baseboard molding, there are a few finishing touches you can add to ensure a seamless and polished look. Here are some tips to help you achieve that:
- Sealing gaps and cracks: Use a flexible, paintable, and crack-resistant caulk to seal any gaps or cracks where the molding meets the wall, other trim, or at joints. This will give a smooth and uniform appearance to your work.
- Nail management: Ensure that all brad nails are below the surface of the baseboard. If any nails are protruding, carefully hammer them down and use a nail set to push them below the surface. Fill the nail holes with a wood filler that matches the colour and texture of the baseboard. Let the filler dry, and then sand it down smoothly with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Painting: If you wish to paint your baseboards, choose a semi-gloss paint that complements the colour of your walls. Painting your baseboards can add a framed appearance to the room.
- Quarter-round installation: If you have uneven floors or gaps between your baseboards and the floor, consider installing quarter-round molding. Attach the quarter-round to the baseboard, not the flooring, to allow for natural expansion and contraction due to humidity and temperature changes.
Now, let's address some common mistakes and how to fix them:
- Chipping and breaking: Plastic baseboard molding is fragile and prone to chipping or breaking during installation. To minimise this, use a finer-toothed saw when cutting the molding to reduce the risk of damage.
- Gaps at joints: If you encounter gaps at the joints of your baseboards, especially on crooked walls, there are a few tricks you can try. Cut braces from scrap baseboard with 45-degree angles on the ends and insert them into the gaps. You can also use caulking to fill in the gaps and create a seamless appearance.
- Imperfect angles: When joining two pieces of baseboard in the middle of a wall, finding the perfect angle can be tricky. Cut the pieces at angles slightly more or less than 45 degrees and test fit them repeatedly until you find the right angle. Save this angle setting on your miter saw for future cuts.
- Adhesive issues: When using adhesive to attach your baseboards, ensure the walls are clean and dry for the best adhesion. Leave a small gap at the top of the baseboard to avoid adhesive oozing onto the wall. Use a hand roller over the board surface to ensure a solid bond.
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Frequently asked questions
The steps are similar to installing a regular wood baseboard. First, decide on the type and style of baseboard. Then, measure the length of each wall to determine the necessary length for each piece of molding. Mark the molding pieces where you need to cut, using a miter box and a miter saw or a coping saw. Cut the molding using a finer-toothed saw to prevent chipping. Attach the molding to the wall using adhesive or a nail gun.
You will need a miter box, a miter saw or a coping saw, and a nail gun or a hammer and nails. You will also need adhesive, such as Cove base glue or "Liquid Nails Paneling & Molding".
To get a smooth look around wall corners, place the baseboard roll around the corner edge and mark a cutting point. Cut the marked point with a wood chisel to create a V-shaped groove, so the board fits snugly. Overlap the last piece of the board by one inch for a continuous roll.
