Sofia Martinez
Crown molding is a designer upgrade that can add depth, character, and charm to any room. It bridges the corner where walls and ceilings meet and works with most decorating schemes. While traditional wood molding can be challenging to install, plastic crown molding offers a simpler alternative. This lightweight, flexible material is perfect for DIY enthusiasts looking to upgrade their home’s interior. Before installing plastic crown molding, it is important to carefully plan and measure the room's perimeter to determine the correct amount of material needed. The molding pieces need to fit seamlessly around the room, taking into account any irregularities in the walls and corner angles.
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What You'll Learn
Planning and measuring
Planning
Start by choosing the right type of crown moulding for your space. Consider the decorative style you want to achieve, whether it's a fancy or simple look. Planning should begin on the wall opposite the door, as you want the first view of your crown moulding to be the best. Cove moulding, for example, offers a neatly finished look without being too ornate.
Measuring
Measure the room's perimeter to determine the amount of moulding required. Add 10% to your total to allow for waste and errors. When measuring, pay close attention to corner angles and any wall irregularities. Mark the position of all wall studs using a stud finder and masking tape. These marks will guide you when nailing the moulding in place.
Next, measure the wall from corner to corner to determine the placement of the moulding. Draw a faint line to indicate the bottom of the crown moulding, ensuring it remains straight. When measuring the moulding itself, use a framing square to note the distance between the moulding's edge and the corner.
If you need to join two pieces of moulding, consider the type of joint required. Mitered joints are perfect for 90-degree corners, while coped joints work well for corners that aren't square. For long walls, you may need to splice two pieces of moulding with a scarf joint, cutting the pieces at a 45-degree angle.
Remember to plan your cuts carefully, especially when dealing with corners and transitions. It's always better to cut the moulding pieces slightly longer than needed, allowing for adjustments during installation.
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Cutting the moulding
Planning the Cuts
Before making any cuts, it's important to carefully plan and measure. Measure the room's perimeter to determine the required amount of moulding, adding about 10% to account for errors and waste. Identify the type of cuts needed: inside corner cuts, outside corner cuts, or scarf joints for joining moulding pieces on a wall. Mark the moulding positions on the walls and ceiling using an L-shaped gauge made from scrap wood. This will ensure your moulding fits seamlessly around the room.
Making the Cuts
The most common type of cut is a 45-degree angle cut for inside and outside corners. Place the moulding in a miter box or on a miter saw, upside down, and brace it against the bottom and side to mimic its position against a ceiling and wall. Use a handsaw or a power saw, wearing the necessary eye and ear protection. For inside corners, the top part of the moulding will be shorter, and for outside corners, the bottom part will be shorter.
Fine-Tuning the Cuts
After making your initial cuts, use a rasp or sanding block to fine-tune the fit. Shave the back of the angled cut to ensure the corners come together tightly and neatly. If you're joining two pieces of moulding with a scarf joint, cut the shorter piece at a 45-degree angle on the right end, then do the same for the longer piece on its left end. This will create a neat overlap.
Final Adjustments
Before installing, cut the moulding about 1/8-inch longer than your final measurement to help push the cope joint closed during installation. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting when nailing, and putty any visible nail holes. Sanding and priming the moulding before installation can also help create a smooth finish.
Remember to always plan your cuts carefully, work safely, and make adjustments as needed to ensure a precise fit for your plastic crown moulding installation.
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Attaching the moulding
To attach the moulding, you can use nails, glue, or adhesive. If you are using nails, use a brad nail gun and 1½-inch brad nails at the studs and joists. If you are using glue, apply a 1/2-inch bead of joint compound along the moulding's top and bottom edges. If you are using adhesive, apply heavy-duty construction adhesive to the back of the moulding.
If you are using nails, you will also need to fill in the nail holes with putty or wood filler. If you are using glue, you will need to press the moulding together until the glue squeezes out of the joints, and then use your finger or a putty knife to fill in the gaps.
If you are installing plastic crown moulding with uplighting, you will need to install a switched electrical outlet box at a convenient location before attaching the moulding.
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Using adhesive
When installing plastic crown moulding, the first thing to do is determine which crown moulding to use. There are a number of different decorative styles that you can install based on the decor of your room. Cove moulding, for example, offers a neatly finished look that is not too fancy.
Before you begin, measure the wall from corner to corner. Draw a faint line where the bottom of the crown moulding will lay. This will help you keep the moulding straight. Write down your measurements and use a stud finder to locate the studs. Make faint pencil marks high on the wall to guide you as you nail.
Apply a heavy-duty construction adhesive to the back of the crown moulding. Loctite Power Grab Molding & Paneling Adhesive or DAP Heavy Duty construction adhesive are two examples of suitable products. Press the moulding against the wall, following the line you drew earlier. The adhesive will keep the moulding in place while you tack it in place with nails.
If you are nailing the moulding, use a brad nail gun and 1½-inch brad nails at the studs and joists. If there are no joists to attach it to at the ceiling, drive nails in about every foot or so at a 45-degree angle. Wipe away any adhesive that may squeeze out with a damp cloth.
Finally, fill any nail holes with wood putty or a wood filler product and allow the putty to dry completely. Sand the filler with 100-grit sandpaper until smooth.
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Finishing touches
Now that you've cut and installed your plastic crown moulding, there are a few final steps to ensure a seamless and elegant finish.
Firstly, fill any nail holes with a suitable filler. For plastic or wood moulding, use a product like Plastic Wood All-Purpose Wood Filler, which is a latex-based product. If you're working with foam moulding, fill the nail holes with sandable spackle, removing any excess and allowing it to dry for an hour before sanding it smooth.
Next, you'll want to caulk the top and bottom horizontal seams of the moulding. Remove any excess caulk and smooth it out to create a seamless finish. If you've opted for foam moulding, you can now paint it to match your desired colour scheme. Primer and paint the sides and back of the moulding before installation to prevent warping. You can also use stain or varnish for a different aesthetic.
If you're feeling adventurous and want to add a warm glow to your room, consider installing uplighting to your plastic crown moulding. This will involve adding a switched electrical outlet box near the edge of the nailing strip, wiring it with a separate switch to control the lighting independently, and then laying rope lights neatly into the trough.
And there you have it! Your plastic crown moulding is now complete and ready to be admired.
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Frequently asked questions
The easiest way to install plastic crown molding is to use a peel-and-stick product that requires no tools.
The first step is to carefully plan the installation. Measure the room's perimeter to determine how much molding you need, and add 10% to accommodate waste and errors.
To cut plastic crown molding, use a miter saw to cut the molding at a 45-degree angle. Place the molding in a miter box, upside down, and brace it against the bottom and side of the box as if it were angled against a ceiling and wall.
