Maya Ellison
Plastic edging is a great way to give your garden beds a clean, finished look. It is flexible, easy to work with, and economical. To install plastic edging with stakes, you'll first need to measure the perimeter of your garden bed to determine how much edging you'll need. Then, dig a trench around your garden bed and place the edging inside, making sure the lip on the bottom is pointing toward the bed. If you need multiple rolls of edging, use a connector to attach the ends. Finally, install a stake every 5 feet along the edging, hammering them in at a 45-degree angle to avoid the edging being forced out by frost.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To give garden beds, borders and outdoor spaces a clean, finished look |
| Tools | Rope or twine, environmentally safe marking paint, tape measure, shovel or spade, tin snips, pruning shears, scissors, utility knife, coupler, hammer, mallet, hacksaw, PVC cement, H-clip, steel anchoring stake |
| Materials | Plastic edging, steel stakes, commercial-grade edging, connectors, glue |
| Preparation | Measure the perimeter of the garden bed, use rope to determine the shape and length of edging required, add 10% to the total length to account for waste, dig a trench along the edges of the bed |
| Installation | Place the edging into the trench with the lip/curled-up "V" at the bottom facing the bed, trim and join strips of edging if necessary, use a connector to attach multiple rolls, fill the trench with soil, install stakes at a 45-degree angle every 5 feet along the edging, pound wooden stakes into the ground and cut edging sides one at a time |
| Maintenance | Water the edging to settle the soil |
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What You'll Learn
Measuring the perimeter of your garden bed
To measure the perimeter, you can use a tape measure or lay a rope or twine along the bed's edges, following the shape of the bed. If using rope or twine, once you are satisfied with the layout, use environmentally safe marking paint to trace the path of the rope. Then, cut the rope to size and use a tape measure to determine its length. Don't forget to add 10% to the total length to account for waste.
If you have a straight garden bed, use a tape measure to measure the length of each side, adding the lengths together to get the total perimeter. For curved or irregularly shaped beds, the rope method is more effective.
Once you know the perimeter, you can start preparing your garden bed for the edging. This involves digging a trench around the bed, usually 3-6 inches deep and slightly wider than the width of the edging. If you are using commercial-grade edging, you may need to dig a deeper trench, around 6 inches, to accommodate the larger size.
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Digging a trench
Once you have your measurements, it's time to start digging. Use a round point shovel or spade to dig a trench that is 3-6 inches deep and slightly wider than the width of the edging. This trench should follow the outline of your garden bed, as marked with environmentally safe marking paint. Make sure the soil inside the bed has been prepared before installing the edging.
When digging the trench, be careful not to damage any underground utilities. Call 811 before digging to have underground utility lines marked. This will help you dig safely and avoid any unexpected issues.
After you've dug the trench, it's a good idea to place the edging inside to ensure a proper fit. The edging should curve along loosely, with the lip or "V" at the bottom pointing towards the garden bed, not the lawn. If you need multiple rolls of edging, use a connector to attach the ends.
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Placing the edging in the trench
Now that you've measured the perimeter of your garden bed, dug a trench, and cut your plastic edging to size, it's time to place the edging in the trench.
First, make sure the edging is oriented correctly. The edging should curve along the trench, with the lip or "V" at the bottom of the edging pointing towards the garden bed, not the lawn. If you have multiple strips of edging, use a connector to join the pieces. Slide the connector halfway into the top channel of the first strip, then fit the second strip onto the other end of the connector. Apply pressure to create a tight seam.
Next, place the edging in the trench. The edging should sit loosely in the trench, with the top bead of the edging about half an inch above the finished grade. If you're using wooden stakes, you can cut the edging to size, stopping after each cut to glue that end to your wood corner blocks. If you're using steel or plastic stakes, you'll want to install the stakes before placing the edging in the trench.
To install the stakes, place the pointed tip of the stake into the "V" at the bottom of the edging. Hammer the portion of the stake that is above the soil to drive the pointed tip through the edging. Install a stake every 5 feet (1.5 meters) along the edging, or every 2 feet at a minimum. If you're using wooden stakes, pound them into the ground at a very flat angle, ideally 25 degrees or 45 degrees maximum. For steel stakes, drive them through the lawn edging at a 45-degree angle towards the trench wall, leaving 2 inches undriven.
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Joining multiple strips of edging
- Arranging the Strips: When joining two strips of edging, it's best to join them in the middle of a run. Avoid joining strips near corners, sharp bends, or angles in the design. This will help to create a less noticeable seam.
- Using a Coupler: To connect the strips, use a coupler or connector. Slide the coupler halfway into one of the top channels of the first strip. Pinch the strip to hold the coupler in place.
- Connecting the Strips: Fit the second strip onto the other half of the coupler. Apply pressure to tightly butt the pieces against each other, minimizing the appearance of the seam.
- Backfilling: Once the strips are connected, use a shovel or spade to backfill behind the edging with soil. Pack the dirt firmly as you go, ensuring the edging is securely held in place.
- Staking: To provide additional stability, install stakes at the joint. Place stakes at both ends of the joined section, about 6 inches apart. Pound the stakes at a very flat angle, ideally no more than 25 to 45 degrees. This will prevent the edging from being forced out by frost.
- H-Clips and Anchoring Stakes: For extra reinforcement, especially when joining sections with curves or bends, use H-clips and anchoring stakes. Apply PVC cement to both sides of the edging and quickly connect the sections with the H-clip before the glue sets. Then, drive a steel anchoring stake through the pre-cut slots in the edging until it reaches its maximum depth.
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Hammering the stakes into the ground
When hammering the stakes into the ground, it is important to remember not to pound them straight down or at a 40-degree angle. Instead, they should be hammered in at a very flat angle, a maximum of 25 degrees, or 45 degrees if hammering into the edging. This will ensure that the edging remains in place and does not get forced out by frost.
To hammer the stakes into the ground, first, use a hammer to gently tap the stake into the ground at the desired angle. Ensure that the pointed tip of the stake is facing towards the "V" shape at the bottom of the edging. Next, apply more force with the hammer to drive the stake deeper into the ground. Continue this process until the stake is securely in place.
If you are using wooden stakes, you may need to use a mallet instead of a hammer to avoid damaging the wood. Additionally, if you are using steel stakes, you may need to use a hacksaw to cut the stake to the desired length.
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Frequently asked questions
First, measure the perimeter of your garden bed using rope to determine how much edging you'll need. Then, dig a 3-6 inch deep trench around your garden bed that's slightly wider than the width of the edging.
Place the edging into the trench with the lip on the bottom pointing toward your garden bed and not the lawn. If you need multiple rolls of edging, use a connector to attach the ends of the rolls.
Place the pointed tip of the stake into the "V" at the bottom of the edging. Hammer the part of the stake that is above the soil to make the pointed tip go through the edging. Install a stake at every 5 feet along the edging.
Hammer the stakes in at a very flat angle, 25-45 degrees max. Pounding the stakes in at a very flat angle prevents the edging from being forced out by frost.
Commercial-grade edging will be more durable and last longer than cheap plastic edging. Good edging measures five-and-a-half inches wide or more.
