Maya Ellison
Installing plastic floor molding is a simple way to add instant character to a room. The purpose of molding is to cover edges, camouflage expansion spaces, and bridge surfaces where wood ends and other types of flooring begin, like tile or carpet. The steps for installing plastic baseboard molding are similar to those for regular wood or MDF products, but there are some differences. For example, plastic baseboard molding may come in a few more colors or styles than traditional molding materials, but it also tends to be more fragile and prone to chipping or breaking during installation. To prevent this, it is recommended to use a finer-toothed saw when cutting the plastic molding.
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What You'll Learn
Planning: Consider edges, cabinets, fireplaces, stairways, and transitions
Planning is a crucial step in installing plastic floor moulding. Here are some key considerations to keep in mind when planning for edges, cabinets, fireplaces, stairways, and transitions:
Edges and Transitions
- Determine the necessary length for each piece of moulding by measuring the length of each wall.
- Plan for trim and moulding in advance to avoid last-minute issues.
- Consider using T-molding or transitional pieces when continuing flooring through a doorway. This allows for expansion and is often a better option than trying to create an exact fit.
- Threshold trim is used to bridge the gap between the floor and a sliding glass door, connecting wood floors to carpet, and leaving an expansion gap in place. End cap or square nose moulding can also be used.
Cabinets, Fireplaces, and Stairways
- Identify any fixed objects in the room, such as installed cabinets, fireplaces, or stairways, and leave a 3/8" expansion gap around them.
- Transitions around fireplaces can be tricky. To achieve a natural-looking transition, trim out an area around the hearth using an undercut saw with a diamond-tipped blade. Two cuts are required: one at the vertical height level of the floor and the other flush with the subfloor. Chisel the area between the cuts for the flooring to slide between.
- For stairs that end under the floating edge and require expansion room, use overlap stair nosing or bull nose trim. If the stairs end flush, opt for flush or square edge stair nosing.
General Planning Tips
- Bring the moulding boards into the room a few days before installation to allow the material to acclimate to the environment.
- Clean and patch the surface where the moulding will be attached to ensure a smooth and flat application.
- Measure twice, cut once. Take precise measurements and plan your cuts carefully to save time and effort.
- Use a stud finder to locate and mark the wall studs. This will guide your attachment points.
- Use a miter saw to cut the moulding pieces accurately, especially when dealing with corners. A miter box is a good alternative if you're on a budget.
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Preparation: Acclimate moulding, clean surfaces, and measure
To prepare for installing plastic floor moulding, you should first acclimate the moulding. Like the flooring planks, mouldings should be acclimated for 72 hours.
Next, you should clean the surfaces. Before attaching the baseboard to the wall, ensure the surface is clean and flat. Patch or smooth any problem areas. Clean the subfloor surface before putting any new flooring in place.
Finally, you should take measurements. To determine what kind of trim you’ll need, consider the edges of the room and anything that meets the floor, for example, installed cabinets, fireplaces, stairways, doorways, and transitions between floorings. A general rule of thumb is to leave a 3/8” expansion gap around any fixed object and use mouldings, pipe rings, or vent covers to conceal the gaps. Transitions around fireplaces are often awkward. The most natural-looking way to handle a raised hearth is to trim out an area around the hearth itself using an undercut saw with a diamond-tipped blade. Two cuts are required and this needs to be prepared before installing the floor. The first cut goes at the vertical height level of the floor and the second flush with the subfloor. Chisel the area between the two cuts for the flooring to slide between.
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Cutting: Use a miter saw, cut corners, and avoid chipping
When installing plastic floor molding, cutting is a crucial step that requires precision and the right tools. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for the cutting process:
Using a Miter Saw:
The miter saw is a versatile tool that can be used to make straight cuts and angled cuts, known as miters. When using a miter saw, it is essential to select the right blade. Look for a sharp blade labeled as a "trim" or "fine crosscutting" blade. The number of teeth on the blade is also important: a 10-inch blade should have at least 40 teeth, while a 12-inch blade should have a minimum of 60 teeth. If you are using a sliding miter saw, choose a blade with a neutral or negative hook angle for safety.
Cutting Corners:
When dealing with corners during your plastic floor molding installation, it's important to understand the concept of miters. Miters are angled cuts that allow molding pieces to fit neatly around corners. The most common miter angle is 45 degrees, but it's important to note that even on perfectly square corners, 45-degree angles may not always result in perfect miters. Minor adjustments might be needed, and these adjustments are typically very small, often just a quarter of a degree.
Avoiding Chipping:
To avoid chipping when cutting plastic floor molding, there are several techniques you can use:
- Sanding: After making your miter cuts, use a small piece of 120-grit sandpaper to sand over the joint. This will help create a smooth finish and remove any cross-grain sanding marks.
- Back-Beveling: Create a back-beveled cut by placing a pencil under the molding and tilting the blade of your miter saw by a degree or two.
- Outside Corner Miters: When cutting outside corner miters, cut them about 1 degree sharper than the actual angle. This will result in the tips of the miters touching, leaving a tiny gap at the back that is barely noticeable.
- Hiding Gaps: If you encounter a slight gap in the outside corner miter, you can disguise it by rubbing the tip of the miter with the shank of a screwdriver or nail set. This technique bends the fibers to hide the gap, creating a rounded corner that is less susceptible to chipping.
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Installation: Use nails, staples, glue, or putty
When installing plastic floor moulding, there are several methods you can use, including nails, staples, glue, or putty. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to use these different methods:
Nails
- Ensure that the floor is level: Use a four-foot spirit level to check for uneven areas and position the baseboard at the lowest point on the wall.
- Mark the wall: Use chalk to mark the wall, following the baseboard trim from the top down to each corner.
- Cut the baseboard: Measure the perimeter of the room and cut the baseboard trim to size. It's better to cut the trim a little longer than needed, so you can trim it down if necessary.
- Secure the baseboard: Use finishing nails and a hammer to secure the baseboard to the wall at the studs.
Staples
- Measure and cut the baseboard: Determine the perimeter of the room and cut the baseboard trim accordingly.
- Attach the baseboard: Use a staple gun to attach the baseboard to the wall. Ensure the staples are long enough to penetrate the baseboard and the wall securely.
Glue
- Clean the surface: Ensure the subfloor surface is clean and flat before starting.
- Apply adhesive: Use a caulking gun to apply adhesive to the back of the baseboard and the wall.
- Attach the baseboard: Carefully attach the baseboard to the wall, following your pencil scribe line as a guide.
Putty
- Fill nail holes: After installing the baseboard with nails, use wood putty to fill the nail holes.
- Sand and paint: Once the putty is dry, sand the area smooth and paint over it to match the baseboard.
It's important to note that you should always take the necessary precautions when using any tools or adhesives and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.
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Finishing: Paint, fill gaps, and smooth
When it comes to finishing plastic floor molding, there are a few key steps to ensure a professional look. Firstly, it is important to fill any gaps and smooth out imperfections. For baseboards, use a putty or filler to fill any nail holes or problem areas. This is an important step to create a seamless finish. Once the filler is dry, it can be sanded down to create a smooth surface. If you are using wood putty, choose a colour that matches the moulding for a seamless finish.
For T-mouldings, it is essential to leave a gap for expansion. This can be filled with construction adhesive or liquid nails, with the moulding placed on top. Some prefer to use silicone for a less permanent solution. If using adhesive, ensure it is only applied to one side of the floor so that the floor can expand and contract.
Before installing plastic baseboards, it is important to let the material acclimate to the environment for a few days. This will help prevent warping or expansion issues after installation. Once the baseboards are installed, fill any gaps between the wall and the baseboard with caulk. This will create a clean, finished look and protect the wall from moisture damage.
Finally, painting the floor moulding can enhance the overall appearance and provide a uniform look to the room. Choose a paint that is suitable for the material of your moulding and follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to paint the moulding before installation, if possible, to achieve a neat finish. Allow the paint to dry completely before proceeding with any additional steps.
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Frequently asked questions
The steps for installing plastic baseboard molding are similar to those for regular wood or MDF products. Measure the length of each wall to determine the necessary length for each piece of plastic baseboard molding. Mark the molding pieces where cuts need to be made. Place the molding in a miter box, lining up the cut mark with the appropriate miter box slot. Cut the plastic baseboard molding using a miter saw.
Before attaching the baseboard to the wall, make sure the surface is clean and flat. Patch or smooth any problem areas prior. Bring the boards into the room where you'll be installing them a few days before you start to help the material acclimate to the environment.
You will need a miter saw to cut the plastic baseboard molding. A miter box is a good, economical option. A brad nailer is another tool that can speed up the process.
Plastic baseboard molding has a tendency to chip or break more frequently than other materials. Using a finer-toothed saw can help prevent some of these problems. If installing baseboard molding before adding carpet, it needs to be installed 1 inch above floor level to allow room for both pad and carpet.
