
Installing a lamp post can be a simple DIY project that adds character and beautiful light to your home. It can also enhance your home's curb appeal, improve safety, and help deter crime. Before you begin, it's important to turn off all power to your main breaker box to avoid injury. Additionally, consider the height and lighting style of the lamp post, as well as whether you prefer clear or frosted shades. You may also choose to hire a licensed electrician to handle the wiring. Once you've made these initial considerations, you can start by digging a hole for the lamp post, following the manufacturer's guidelines for depth and diameter.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Height | 8 feet |
| Lighting style | One bulb or multiple bulb setups |
| Shade | Clear or frosted glass |
| Base | Concrete or expandable foam |
| Wiring | Connect wires from the lantern to the post based on colours |
| Electrical connection | Connect wiring to the home's main electrical panel |
| Installation method | Dig a hole, fill with gravel, place the post, and backfill trench with soil |
| Additional steps | Apply waterproof sealant, add decorative elements, and test functionality |
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What You'll Learn

Preparing the base area
First, decide on the location of your lamp post. This decision will depend on various factors, such as the desired lighting effect, the proximity to your power source, and any relevant electrical codes or safety considerations. Once you have chosen the location, use the supplied wooden template to mark out the fixing holes and determine the space needed for the base. This template will help you visualise the position of the lamp post and ensure you have allowed for sufficient space.
Next, start preparing the ground. Dig a hole that is approximately 18 to 24 inches deep and 6 inches in diameter. This depth is important to provide stability and support to your lamp post. As you dig, clear out any large rocks or loose dirt clods to create a smooth and level surface. After digging the hole, fill the bottom with a layer of gravel, approximately 6 inches deep. This gravel layer will provide drainage and help stabilise the base.
Now, create a trench that runs from the lamp post area to your power source. This trench should be deep enough to accommodate the electrical wiring and conduit. A good rule of thumb for burying conduit is 18 inches for PVC conduit and 24 inches for direct wire burial. Place the soil removed from the trench onto a plastic tarp to make it easier to refill the trench later.
Before placing the lamp post base, ensure you have marked out the proposed fixing holes and that the concrete base is fitted with an appropriate means of threading your electrical cable. Drill the fixing holes into the concrete or installation site, and get ready to fix the lamp post base into position using the supplied masonry expanding bolts or an alternative method suggested by your tradesperson.
By following these steps, you will have a well-prepared base area that is ready for the next stages of installing your plastic lamp post.
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Wiring the lamp post
Firstly, measure the distance from the outlet to the lamp post to determine how much conduit you will need. Run plastic conduit from the light to the outlet; Rigid Non-Metallic Conduit (RNC) is a safer option for underground wiring. Bury the conduit according to electrical code guidelines, typically 18 inches for PVC and 24 inches for direct wire burial.
Next, strip about 1/4" to 1/2" of insulation from the wires to expose the bare copper. This is done for both the post and lantern wires. Match the wires by colour, connecting the corresponding wires from the post to the lantern. Use wire nuts to securely hold the joined wire pairs together. Ensure you leave room at the top of the post to tuck the excess wiring in.
After wiring, carefully slide the lantern onto the post and tighten it with the provided screws to secure it in place. For safety reasons, it is recommended to hire a licensed electrician to connect the wiring to your breaker box and install a switch. They can also help you add a timer or photocell to your lamp setup, allowing automatic control based on time or ambient light levels.
Once the wiring is complete, backfill the trench and around the post base with soil, tamping it down to prevent settling. Finally, test your lamp post to ensure it functions correctly by turning on the switch and verifying that the light comes on.
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Securing the lamp post
Now, fit the central pole and lantern. If you are using concrete, pour the ready-mix concrete into the hole, leaving 6 inches of conduit exposed. Do not let the concrete touch the wires or conduit. Smooth the concrete with a concrete float. Pull the wires through the bottom of the lamp post, and push the shaft of the post over the conduit, about 12 inches into the concrete. Ensure the wires remain exposed at the top.
Use two work straps to secure the post, wrapping them around and staking them into the ground about 36 inches away from the post, on opposite sides. Adjust the straps to ensure the post is level, and leave the concrete to set for a minimum of four hours, or ideally, eight hours or overnight.
After the concrete has set, attach the lantern by connecting the wires and securing with screws or bolts. Check the post is straight and plumb, and apply a waterproof sealant around the base to prevent water damage and keep the post stable.
Finally, turn the power on at the breaker, and test your lamp post. If there are any issues, consult an electrician.
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Adding finishing touches
Once the concrete has fully set and the electrical connections are complete, backfill the trench and around the post base with soil. Tamp down the soil to prevent settling.
To enhance the lamppost’s appearance, consider adding decorative elements like mulch or small plants around the base. Before signing off on the job, test your new lamppost to ensure it functions correctly. Turn on the switch and make sure the light comes on and stays lit.
If you're happy with the function and look of your lamppost, consider adding some finishing touches to enhance its functionality and style. For example, you could add house numbers to make it easier for visitors and emergency services to find your home. Alternatively, you could add planters or hanging baskets to bring a touch of colour and life to your yard, making the lamppost a focal point.
You could also add a timer or photocell to your lamppost setup. These devices automatically turn the lamppost on and off based on the time of day or ambient light levels, increasing the efficiency of your lighting fixture.
Finally, apply a paint coat within the first 3-9 months to maintain the lamp post's appearance. Repeat this process as and when required.
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Testing the lamp post
Testing your lamp post is a crucial step in ensuring its safety and functionality. Here is a detailed guide on how to test your newly installed plastic lamp post:
Testing the Electrical Connections
Before turning on the lamp post, ensure that all electrical connections are secure. Check that the wires are properly matched and connected between the lantern and the post. Verify that the electrical wiring complies with local codes and regulations. If you have not done so already, consider hiring a licensed electrician to establish the connections and ensure they are safe.
Testing the Switch
Once you are satisfied with the electrical wiring, turn on the switch to test the lamp post. Confirm that the light comes on and stays lit. If the light does not turn on, check the bulb and try replacing it with a working one. If issues persist, consult with a qualified electrician to identify and resolve the problem.
If your lamp post has a sensor, such as a photocell or a timer, you will need to test its functionality. For a photocell, wait until dusk or darken the sensor with black tape to simulate low-light conditions. Observe whether the lamp post turns on automatically as it should. If not, the issue may lie with the sensor or the transformer.
Testing Voltage
To test the voltage, use a voltage tester or a multimeter to check the voltage at the wiring connections of the sensor. Ensure that proper voltage is reaching the sensor and the photocell. If the voltage is insufficient, there may be an issue with the electrical connections or the power source.
Testing Stability
In addition to electrical testing, it is important to assess the stability of your lamp post. Ensure that the post is plumb and straight, using a level to verify its alignment from multiple angles. Check that the concrete base is secure and that the lamp post does not wobble or lean.
By following these testing procedures, you can ensure that your plastic lamp post is installed correctly, functions as intended, and meets safety standards. Remember to consult with a licensed electrician if you encounter any issues or have concerns about the installation.
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Frequently asked questions
First, turn off the power to your breaker box to avoid injury. Measure the distance from the outlet to the lamp post to determine how much conduit you need. Dig an 18-24 inch deep hole with a 6-inch diameter. Fill the bottom with 6 inches of gravel. Dig a trench from the lamp post area to the power source and place the soil on a plastic tarp for refilling later.
Use wire strippers to expose 1/4-1/2 inch of bare copper on the wires on both the post and lantern side. Match the wires from the lantern to the post by colour. Use wire nuts to hold the joined pairs together.
Place the lamp post on the ground and pull the wires through from the bottom to the top. Slide the shaft of the post over the conduit and push it about 12 inches into the concrete. Use work straps to keep the post straight and level. Let the concrete set for a minimum of four hours, preferably eight hours or overnight.
After the concrete has set, backfill the trench and around the post base with soil and tamp it down. Apply a waterproof sealant around the base of the post to prevent water damage and keep the post stable. Test your lamp post to ensure it functions correctly. For aesthetic purposes, consider painting your lamp post within the first 3-9 months and repeating as necessary.










































