Omar Khalid
Installing a plastic low-voltage box is a straightforward task that can be completed with the right tools and some careful planning. Low-voltage boxes are typically used for phone, cable TV, speaker wires, and 12-volt lighting fixtures. They are also useful for supporting cover plates and protecting your home from potential electrical fires. When installing a plastic low-voltage box, it's important to first locate the studs using a stud finder and outline the bracket on the wall. The bracket is then secured to the drywall, and the wires can be run through it. It's crucial to ensure that the box is level and properly aligned to avoid an askew cover plate.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To support the cover plate and protect your home from a fire in the event of connection failure |
| Tools | Stud finder, screwdriver, drywall saw, torpedo level, ruler, pencil |
| Installation steps | - Locate the studs using a stud finder |
- Outline the bracket on the wall
- Place the front of the bracket against the drywall at the installation location
- Set a torpedo level on the top edge and adjust the box to centre the bubble
- Poke a pencil through the reference hole near each of the corners and make a mark on the wall
- Remove the bracket
- Draw lines between the marks to form a rectangle
- Cut around the rectangle using a drywall saw
- Remove the cutout
- Fit the bracket into the hole and turn the screws in front clockwise | | Advantages of plastic boxes | More rigid, better mechanical advantage in gripping the drywall, removable and replaceable, non-conductive, uses less plastic, simpler to mould, don't limit the termination area's volume to the size of the box |
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What You'll Learn
Using a stud finder to locate the studs
When installing a plastic low-voltage box, it is important to first locate the studs in the wall. A stud finder is a useful tool for this task. Here are some tips for using a stud finder to locate the studs:
Firstly, it is important to choose the right stud finder for the job. Different models of stud finders may be better suited to specific tasks or wall types. Some factors to consider when choosing a stud finder include ease of use, detection depth, accuracy, and the ability to identify different materials behind the wall, such as metal pipes or live wiring.
Once you have selected your stud finder, it is important to calibrate it properly before use. Refer to the instructions provided with your stud finder to ensure correct calibration. This will help ensure accurate results.
When using the stud finder, start by moving it slowly and systematically across the wall. Listen for an audible tone or watch for an indicator light that signals the presence of a stud. Mark the edges of the stud with a pencil to help guide your installation.
If you are having trouble locating studs with the stud finder, there are alternative methods you can try. One method is to use rare earth magnets to locate nails or screws in the wall, which are typically attached to studs. Light switches and wall outlets are usually mounted to studs, so you can also look for these as reference points.
Additionally, studs are typically spaced 16 inches apart. Once you find one stud, you can measure 16 inches to the left or right to locate the next one. Tapping on the wall can also help; a more solid sound indicates the presence of a stud, while a hollow sound means you are moving away from a stud.
By following these tips and using a combination of tools and techniques, you can effectively locate the studs and proceed with installing your plastic low-voltage box.
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Outlining the bracket on the wall
First, use a stud finder to locate the studs in the wall. The bracket needs to be installed between the studs, not in front of them. Once you have located the studs, mark their positions on the wall. This will help you avoid drilling into the studs when installing the bracket.
Next, hold the bracket against the wall at the desired installation location. Make sure the bracket is level by using a torpedo level on the top edge and adjusting until the bubble is centred.
Now, you will need to mark the outline of the bracket on the wall. Poke a pencil through the reference holes near the corners of the bracket to make marks on the wall. Remove the bracket and connect the marks with straight lines, forming a rectangle. This rectangle will be your cutting line.
Double-check that the rectangle is level, especially if you are drawing around an uneven wall. Any slight discrepancies will be highlighted by the cover plate, which will sit askew if the lines are not level.
Finally, cut along the rectangle using a drywall saw. Be careful not to cut into any wires or pipes that may be hidden behind the wall. Once you have cut out the rectangle, you can fit the bracket into the hole and secure it with screws.
This process ensures that the bracket is securely attached to the wall and provides a neat and safe installation for your low-voltage box.
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Cutting the drywall
When installing a low-voltage electrical wall box, the first step is to place the front of the bracket against the drywall at the desired location. Adjust the box to centre the bubble on a torpedo level placed on its top edge. Poke a pencil through the reference hole near each corner and mark the wall. Remove the bracket and draw lines between the marks to form a rectangle.
Now, cut around the rectangle using a drywall saw. Be sure to use a stud finder to locate the studs before outlining the bracket on the wall—you cannot install it in front of a stud. Cut the drywall and remove the cutout. Fit the bracket into the hole and turn the screws in front clockwise with a screwdriver. As you do this, the mounting brackets will automatically align against the back of the drywall, and tightening the screws will secure the bracket in place.
The bracket doesn't have a back, so you can run the wires through it after installation. It does, however, have holes at the top and bottom for the screws for the cover plate. Double-check the level of the top and bottom lines. If they are not level, the cover plate will be askew.
Some people prefer to use metal low-voltage plates, bending the metal tabs at the top and bottom to capture the drywall and using drywall screws to secure the bracket. Plastic brackets, however, have certain advantages: they are more rigid, have a mechanical advantage in gripping the drywall, can be removed and replaced, and are non-conductive.
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Fitting the bracket into the hole
First, ensure you have located the studs using a stud finder. It is important to note that you cannot install the bracket in front of a stud. Mark the installation location on the drywall by placing the front of the bracket against it and using a torpedo level on the top edge to centre the bubble. Remove the bracket and draw a rectangle using the reference holes as a guide.
Use a drywall saw to cut along the lines you have drawn, creating a hole in the drywall. Fit the bracket into this hole, ensuring that the mounting brackets align against the back of the drywall. Secure the bracket in place by turning the screws in front clockwise with a screwdriver.
The bracket does not have a back, allowing you to run wires through it after installation. The bracket will have holes at the top and bottom for attaching the cover plate.
There are variations in the installation process depending on the type of bracket. For example, the Leviton Metal Old Work Low Voltage Bracket is secured by bending metal 'tabs' at the top and bottom to hold the bracket in place, followed by screwing drywall screws into the top and bottom. Plastic brackets with "flip-out wings" can be tightened to create a flush install, while some brackets may require additional steps such as running a 2x4 between studs to secure the bracket.
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Running wires through the bracket
To install a plastic low-voltage box, you'll need to run wires through the bracket. This bracket is anchored to the drywall and doesn't have a back, so you can run the wires through it after it's installed.
Firstly, use a stud finder to locate the studs. You cannot install the bracket in front of a stud. If you're placing the box next to an existing stud, you can use the nailing flange. If not, you can double up the stud with a short piece of 2x4 to create enough space to install the box.
Next, place the bracket against the drywall at the installation location. Adjust it so that a torpedo level placed on the top edge is centred. Poke a pencil through the reference hole at each corner and mark the wall. Remove the bracket and draw lines between the marks to form a rectangle. Cut around this rectangle with a drywall saw and remove the cutout.
Now, fit the bracket into the hole. Turn the screws at the front of the bracket clockwise to secure it in place. The bracket will automatically align against the back of the drywall as you do this.
Finally, run the wires through the bracket. The wires can be fed through the holes at the top and bottom of the bracket, which are usually used for the screws for the cover plate.
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Frequently asked questions
The main purpose of a 12-volt wall box is to support the cover plate. It is not really a box but a bracket that you anchor to the drywall. It can be used for phone, cable TV, and speaker wires, as well as wires for 12-volt lighting fixtures.
First, use a stud finder to locate the studs before outlining the bracket on the wall. Place the bracket's front against the drywall and adjust it to centre the bubble on a torpedo level. Mark the wall by poking a pencil through the reference hole near each corner, then draw lines to form a rectangle. Cut around the rectangle with a drywall saw and fit the bracket into the hole. Finally, turn the screws in front clockwise to secure the bracket.
Open-back low-voltage boxes use less plastic and are simpler to mould, yet they can be priced the same as closed-back boxes. They also don't limit the termination area's volume to the size of the box, which is beneficial when running structured cables directly to devices in the room.
