Ethan Clarke
Retaining wall pins are used to ensure proper course set back and overall alignment. There are several types of retaining wall pins available, including Keystone pins and VERSA-TUFF® pins. VERSA-TUFF® pins are made from fiberglass-reinforced nylon and vary in size depending on the retaining wall unit being used. They provide improved performance and shear strength, quick and easy installation, minimal gaps between units, and easier placement of units and geogrid. When installing a retaining wall, it is important to first plan the layout and prep the area. This includes calling 811 to check for underground utilities, digging a trench, and tamping down the dirt to create a strong foundation. After installing a few rows of blocks, drainage must be added directly behind the blocks, and the last few rows will require concrete adhesive.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Planning | Determine the layout, number of blocks needed, and check local building codes and regulations. |
| Trench Preparation | Dig a trench 4-6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, or twice the width of the block. Check for underground utilities before excavation. |
| Foundation | Tamp down the dirt in the trench, fill with a paver base, and level it. Wet the base if dry. |
| Block Installation | Install the first course of blocks halfway buried in the trench, keeping the wall level. |
| Drainage | After installing a few rows, add landscape fabric and gravel behind the wall for drainage. |
| Adhesive | For the last two rows, apply concrete adhesive to the block tops before setting the next row. |
| Block Caps | Apply adhesive to the top row of blocks and place the caps. |
| Backfill | Fold the excess fabric and backfill with raised bed soil. |
| Pinning | Use pins for easy and secure assembly. Pins ensure proper course set back and overall alignment. |
| Pin Type | VERSA-TUFF® pins are made from fiberglass-reinforced nylon and come in different sizes. |
| Pin Installation | Slide blocks into position and then pin them for quick and easy installation. |
| Pin Advantages | Improved performance and shear strength, minimal gaps between units, easier placement, and consistent alignment and setback. |
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What You'll Learn
Planning your layout
Next, you should consider the design of your retaining wall. If it is against your house, keep soil and mulch well below the siding. Avoid positioning downspouts towards the wall. Marking the area will depend on your design; for a free-form layout, use a rope or hose to outline the desired shape.
Before you begin any work, check your local building codes and homeowners association regulations for any restrictions or requirements. A permit may be required in some areas. It is recommended to purchase 10% more blocks than your estimate to account for breakage and future repairs.
Once you have planned your layout, you can prepare the area by digging a trench for the first course or row. The trench should be 4-6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, or twice the width of the block. Ensure you call 811 to check for underground utilities before any excavation. If your trench slopes, you will need to create steps to keep the blocks level. Tamp down the dirt and fill the trench with a paver base, wetting it if it is dry. Now, you are ready to begin installing your chosen retaining wall system.
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Digging the trench
To install plastic retaining wall pins, you'll first need to plan your layout and mark out the area. Avoid positioning the wall directly in the path of downspouts and, if it's against a house, keep soil and mulch well below the siding. Use a rope or hose to outline a free-form layout.
Once you've marked out the area, it's time to start digging the trench. Before beginning any excavation, call 811 to check for underground utilities. Dig the trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, or twice the width of the block. If your trench slopes, you'll need to create steps to keep the blocks level. Use a torpedo level to ensure each section of the wall remains level.
Tamp down the dirt with a hand tamper to keep it level. Fill the trench with about 3 inches of paver base, spread it with a rake, and tamp it down again. Wet the paver base if it's dry and dusty. Tamping the base provides a strong foundation for your wall.
When the base is level, you can begin installing the first course or row of blocks. Bury this first row about halfway into the trench. If you're using a block system that works with pins, follow the manufacturer's instructions for wall height limits and assembly. Remember to purchase about 10% more blocks than your estimate to account for breakage and future repairs.
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Installing the first course
Before installing the first course of plastic retaining wall pins, it is important to plan the layout of your retaining wall and mark the area. Avoid positioning the wall such that downspouts point towards it, and if it is against a house, ensure that soil and mulch are well below the siding. Use a rope or hose to outline a free-form layout.
Once you have a plan and a layout, prepare the area by digging a trench for the first course of blocks. The trench should be about 4 to 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide, or twice the width of the block. Before beginning any excavation, call 811 to check for underground utilities. If the trench slopes, you will need to create steps with a torpedo level to ensure that each section of the wall remains level. Tamp down the dirt with a hand tamper to keep it level.
Next, fill the trench with about 3 inches of paver base and spread it with a rake before tamping it down again. Wet the paver base if it is dry and dusty. When the base is level, you can begin installing the first course of blocks.
For the first course, bury the blocks about halfway into the trench. If you are using a block system that works with pins, follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembly. Ensure proper course set back and overall alignment.
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Adding drainage
Proper drainage is essential for maintaining a sturdy retaining wall. Without it, your wall may lean or even collapse. Here are some detailed, step-by-step instructions for adding drainage to your retaining wall:
Assess Site Conditions
The type of soil and its drainage capabilities are key factors in determining the necessary drainage system. Dry areas with sandy, well-drained soils require less drainage, while wet areas with poorly drained clay soils need more extensive drainage solutions.
Install a Footing Drain
Nearly every retaining wall should have a footing drain at its foundation. This involves using a perforated pipe or a solid pipe with a pipe leading out, allowing water to flow out from behind the wall. For maximum subsurface drainage, use a perforated pipe under or behind the wall. If you need to quickly carry water from the wall to a drainage site, opt for a solid pipe.
Add Angular Aggregate
Use clean, crushed stone or gravel between 1/2 and 3/4 inches as a base under the retaining wall and as backfill behind it. While the convention recommends at least 12 inches of gravel backfill, consider exceeding this amount to maximize drainage and structural integrity.
Compact the Soil
Use a compactor on the soil behind the wall after adding your gravel backfill. Compacting the soil makes it less permeable, reducing the potential water weight on your retaining wall.
Use Filter Fabric
Employ a permeable geotextile underlayment fabric, commonly known as filter fabric, between the soil and gravel surfaces. This fabric prevents dirt and debris from clogging the gravel, preserving the integrity of your retaining wall construction.
Address Surface Drainage
Once groundwater can exit the wall through weep holes, focus on rerouting water away from the wall. Use swales or ditches, and pipe gutters past the front of the retaining wall. If the ground slopes towards the top of the wall, install a ditch directly behind it and redirect surface water away as swiftly as possible.
By following these steps and paying close attention to proper drainage, you can ensure the stability and longevity of your retaining wall.
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Backfilling
Firstly, clear the area behind the retaining wall of any debris, rocks, or vegetation. Ensure the ground is level and free from obstructions. It is important to note that the width of the backfill area will vary depending on your specific project, but generally, you should expect to fill approximately 12 inches behind the back of the installed block units.
Secondly, select the right backfill material. It should be free-draining and compactable. Recommended materials include crushed stone or gravel. It is important to avoid using soil as backfill, as it can retain moisture and exert pressure on the wall. Clear stone is an important aspect of the aggregate, as it has been washed and is clear of fines.
Thirdly, begin the backfilling process. The rule of thumb is that the backfill should progress one wall block behind the wall construction. For example, if the wall construction is at two rows, the backfill should be at the level of the top of the first row. Use a mechanical compactor, such as a vibrating plate compactor or hand tamper, to level and settle the backfill material. Avoid using heavy ride-on compaction equipment within 3 feet of the wall.
For taller retaining walls or those supporting heavy loads, consider installing geogrid reinforcement. This reinforces the wall and prevents horizontal movement of the backfill material. Uniaxial geogrid, in particular, helps stabilize the backfill material and should be installed between two layers of the retaining wall block, extending into the backfill material.
Finally, continue adding layers of backfill and compacting until you reach the desired height. Compact each layer thoroughly, ensuring there are no voids or gaps in the backfill material. Leave a space at the top of the wall for topsoil and vegetation.
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Frequently asked questions
Plastic retaining wall pins ensure proper course set back and overall alignment. They also provide a positive mechanical connection to geogrids, even when there is little friction between units, such as in seismic events.
First, plan your layout and prep the area. Then, begin digging a trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide or twice the width of the block. Before beginning any excavation, check for underground utilities. After installing the first course, you will need to add drainage directly behind the block by laying down landscape fabric and filling in gravel as you build. For the last two rows, apply concrete adhesive to the wall block tops before setting the next row of blocks in place.
Determine how many blocks you'll need per row by dividing the total length of the wall by the length of the block. To see how many rows you'll need, divide the ideal wall height by the height of the block, accounting for the first row to be half-buried. Purchase 10% more blocks than your estimate to account for breakage and future repairs. Before buying materials or beginning work, check local building codes and regulations for any restrictions or requirements.
