
Plastic slate roofing is a popular roofing option for those who want the look of slate without the cost or weight. Synthetic slate roofing is made from a variety of materials, including recycled plastic, rubber, cellulose fibers, and mineral dust. It is lightweight, flexible, and often more affordable than natural slate. Installation of plastic slate roofing involves preparing the roof decking, ensuring proper drainage, and fixing the synthetic slate tiles with standard roofing nails or screws. Mixing the slates from different bundles is important to achieve a uniform appearance, as some synthetic slates may change color over time. The installation process may vary slightly depending on the specific type of synthetic slate selected, and it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations.
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What You'll Learn

Preparing the roof: slope and clear the roof deck
Before installing plastic slate roofing, it is important to prepare the roof deck properly to ensure a smooth and successful installation process. Here are the steps you need to follow:
Firstly, ensure that your roof decking is properly sloped for effective drainage. The roof deck should also be securely anchored to sound framing. This is an essential step to provide a stable base for your plastic slate roofing. Check for any foreign particles or debris on the interlocking areas and clear them away to ensure proper seating and to prevent moisture intrusion. This step is crucial to avoid future problems with your roof.
Next, determine the starting point of your installation. You can start from the left side, right side, or centre of the planned installation area. Cut a full slate to 3/4 size to create an eaves or starter slate. Locate the centre of the roof area that needs to be covered. Position the starter slates you have cut, and then use blue chalk to draw a horizontal line across the top of the starter slates. From each end of this line, you can then draw a vertical perpendicular line. This will guide your installation process.
For felt and board roofs, fix timber sheets to the rafters of the roof, ensuring you use a vapour-permeable underlay. Your first course of tiles and eaves course should be laid in a broken bond pattern, as illustrated in the diagrams. You will need to cut the tiles to start and finish every other course. When installing pre-formed hip and ridge slates, follow the pre-marked guides and fix the screws securely.
Additionally, when a ridge tile intersects with a hip tile, remember to weatherproof this area. Install a lead saddle to cover the intersection and provide protection. By following these steps, you will have a well-prepared roof deck that is ready for the installation of plastic slate roofing.
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Using plastic shingles: mixing and attaching them
Plastic slate roofing is a synthetic slate roofing option that is made from recycled plastic, rubber, cellulose fibres, and mineral dust. Synthetic slate roofing is a popular alternative to natural slate roofing because it is cheaper, easier to install, and lighter, requiring less reframing of the roof.
When using plastic shingles, it is important to mix the shingles from different bundles thoroughly, even if they appear to be the same colour. This is because the colour of plastic shingles can change after installation, and different batches will change colour differently over time. Mixing the shingles will create a more natural-looking roof with different shades, like a genuine slate roof.
To attach plastic shingles, standard roofing nails and pneumatic nail guns can be used. The nails should be stainless steel ring-shank nails that are long enough to accommodate the thickness of the shingles. For example, copper nails of 10-gauge thickness are typically used for slate roof tiles, with the required length being twice the slate's thickness plus one inch.
When attaching the shingles, it is important to ensure proper seating and to prevent moisture intrusion by clearing any foreign particles from the interlocking areas. The shingles should be nailed into place with the required lap, which should only ever be increased, not decreased. Head or shoulder fixing is only acceptable for small or heavy shingles, and if this method is used, it is recommended that every third course is nailed twice.
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Fixing slates: nailing, hook fixing, or slate hooks
There are two methods for fixing natural roofing slates: nailing and hook fixing. Slate hooks are also available, but they are not considered a separate fixing method. When deciding which method to use, you need to consider the roof's exposure level to driving rain, the pitch of the roof, and the size of the slate being used. Nails give a clean finish to the roof as each slate covers the nails on the slate underneath. Hooks are fixed in place, showing the end of the hook on each slate.
Slates can be supplied pre-holed, but if on-site holing is undertaken, the following methods should be used. The slate should be holed from the bed of the slate (its reverse), allowing the nail head to be located in the recess on the face of the slate. Each slate should be holed twice. The head of the slate should lay approximately halfway on the batten (25mm on the batten) and leave 25mm to nail into. Nails should be of a diameter and length appropriate to the thickness of the slates held down and the position of the slates on the roof.
Slate hooks attach to the batten by a spike at the upper end, which is driven into the batten. The opposite end from the spike should have the form of a curved hook into which the slate fits. The shank may be straight or crimped, with crimps in the same plane as the roof slope. Hooks with crimped shanks reduce the capillary rise of water at the perpendicular joints between slates. When fixing slates with hooks, all perimeter slates should be hook-fixed and nailed.
Nailing and hook fixing both have their advantages and disadvantages. Hook fixing is more popular in areas with severe exposure to driving wind and rain, such as Scotland, Cumbria, Wales, Devon, and Cornwall. Hooks give much better resistance to wind lift as the hook secures the tail of the slate and locks them together more firmly.
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Weatherproofing: lead saddles for tile intersections
When installing plastic slate roofing, it is important to consider the intersection between ridge and hip tiles. This area needs to be properly weatherproofed to ensure the roof's longevity and protect the interior of the building. One effective method to achieve this is by using a lead saddle.
A lead saddle is a critical component that safeguards the intersection between ridge and hip tiles. It acts as a protective cover, shielding the joint from water intrusion and weather extremes. Proper installation of the lead saddle is essential for its effectiveness. The lead saddle should be fitted neatly, covering the intersection and creating a mitred joint. This joint should be straight and precise, ensuring no gaps are left between the lead and the tiles.
Before installing the lead saddle, it is important to prepare the area. The tiles should be cut to size, ensuring a precise fit. It is recommended to cut the tiles slightly larger than the intersection to allow for any minor adjustments. The tiles should be free of any debris or foreign particles that may hinder the adhesion of the lead saddle. Additionally, the roof decking should be checked to ensure it is properly sloped for effective drainage.
The lead saddle itself should be of adequate thickness and quality to withstand the elements. It should be flexible enough to conform to the shape of the tiles and the roof pitch. When fixing the lead saddle in place, it is recommended to use copper or stainless steel nails. These nails provide superior durability and resistance to corrosion, ensuring the long-term stability of the weatherproofing. It is important to space the nails appropriately, following manufacturer guidelines, to secure the lead saddle effectively.
In addition to nails, roofing professionals often use sealants to further enhance the weatherproofing. A high-quality silicone sealant can be applied along the edges of the lead saddle, creating a watertight barrier. This step ensures that no moisture can penetrate the intersection, providing an extra layer of protection.
By following these detailed instructions for installing a lead saddle, you can effectively weatherproof the intersection between ridge and hip tiles on a plastic slate roof. Proper preparation, precise cutting, and the use of appropriate materials, such as copper or stainless steel nails, contribute to a durable and reliable roof. Don't forget to consider additional sealant for even better protection against the elements.
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Maintenance and longevity: preventing curling and cracking
While slate roofing is incredibly durable and long-lasting, it does require some maintenance to prevent curling and cracking. Slate roofing is known for its longevity, with a lifespan of 75 to over 100 years when properly maintained. Here are some tips to ensure the longevity of your plastic slate roof and prevent curling and cracking:
Inspections and Maintenance
It is recommended to have your slate roof inspected at least once a year by a professional roofing company. Regular inspections can help identify potential problems and allow for prompt repairs. During an inspection, a contractor will examine the slate tiles, flashings, gutters, and downspouts, ensuring that any issues are addressed. It is important to fix problems as they occur to prevent further damage.
Cleaning
Clean your roof at least once or twice a year to increase its lifespan. You can use a soft brush or a low-pressure washer for cleaning. Large pieces of debris on your roof can cause cracks, so it is best to remove them as soon as possible. Additionally, remove moss and algae with specialised cleaning products to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to water damage and potential cracking during freezing temperatures.
Proper Installation
Ensure that your slate roof is installed correctly by hiring an experienced roofing contractor. Each slate tile is fragile and must be handled with care during the installation process. Proper installation is crucial to the longevity of your roof and can help prevent curling and cracking.
Handling with Care
Slate tiles are heavy and fragile, so it is important to take precautions when walking on your roof. Anyone accessing your roof should have the proper training to manoeuvre without breaking the tiles. Walking on a slate roof without caution can lead to cracked or broken tiles, resulting in expensive leaks.
Gutter Maintenance
Maintain your gutters and downspouts by regularly cleaning them to ensure they are clear of leaves and debris. Clogged gutters can cause water to back up, leading to moisture buildup on your slate roof tiles and potential water damage. Well-maintained gutters are essential in directing water away from your roof and preventing leaks.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step is to ensure that your roof decking is sloped for drainage and is completely anchored to sound framing.
The next step is to clear any foreign particles from the interlocking areas to ensure proper seating and to prevent moisture intrusion.
The final step is to cut the slates to the correct size, creating a neat mitred joint. Then, fix the slates using nails or hooks.











































