Maya Ellison
There are several ways to join plastic together, including melting and gluing. One method is to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together. Another option is to use epoxy or glue, such as super glue or a product like Bondic, which stays liquid until activated by UV rays. For 3D printing, a glue can be made by melting ABS with acetone to form a slurry, which can then be painted on to join plastic pieces. Other methods to join plastic include overmolding, hot plate welding, infrared welding, and laser welding.
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Epoxy and glue
When it comes to joining plastic together, the right type of glue is essential. Different types of plastics require different adhesives, and some glues may not form permanent bonds with certain plastics. For instance, ordinary white glues, wood glues, and common adhesives are not suitable for hard, high-density plastics, such as polyethylene and polypropylene.
To identify the type of plastic you are working with, look for the recycling symbol, which usually consists of three arrows forming a triangle with a number or code in the middle. This information will help you choose the right glue for the job. For instance, plastics marked with a 6 or "PS" are polystyrenes, and a poly cement such as Loctite Plastic Bonder is recommended. For gluing tough industrial or construction plastics, such as drainpipes, try the Loctite Plastics Bonding System, which creates a powerful bond with just one drop.
If you are working with hard plastics, such as buckets, crates, or containers, the Loctite Plastics Bonding System, a two-part cyanoacrylate adhesive, is recommended for the strongest bond. For plastics in categories 1, 2, 4, and 5, which include polyethylene and polypropylene, it is challenging to find a suitable adhesive, but you can look for glues designed for these plastics. Category 3 plastics are typically PVC, and a two-part primer and PVC solvent cement can be used for gluing.
For category 6 plastics, which are polystyrenes, you have several options, including poly cement, epoxy, or cyanoacrylate. Category 7 is a miscellaneous category, including polycarbonate and acrylic. For polycarbonate, an epoxy is the best choice, while acrylic requires an acrylic solvent adhesive or, in some cases, cyanoacrylate. Category 9 is for ABS plastics, and while ABS solvent adhesives are available, they can warp the plastic. For optimal results, an epoxy is recommended.
Epoxy is a two-part adhesive consisting of an epoxy polymer and a hardener. It creates an extremely durable bond, fills gaps, and withstands temperature changes without shrinking. To use epoxy, follow these steps:
- Cut the end of the plunger to your desired bead size.
- Tilt the syringe upwards and push the plunger to remove excess air.
- Dispense the desired amount of resin and hardener onto a disposable surface.
- Mix the two components thoroughly for at least 60 seconds or as directed by the manufacturer.
Before applying any adhesive, it is crucial to prepare the plastic surface. Clean the plastic with soap, a specialized plastic cleaner, or isopropyl alcohol. Dry it thoroughly, and avoid touching it with bare hands to minimize oil residue. To create a rough surface for better adhesion, sand the plastic lightly with sandpaper, steel wool, or emery cloth.
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Soldering iron
Plastic is remarkably malleable and can be easily melted and reattached with a soldering iron. While the repaired object may not look exactly as it did originally, with practice, you can make smooth welds that are not cosmetically obvious.
To begin, sand the edges of the plastic so that they are not jagged. Plug in your soldering iron and wait a few minutes for it to warm up. Push the two pieces of plastic together and hold them in place as you run the soldering iron tip along the seam, partially melting the plastic. Adjust the pieces while they are still hot so that they fit together well.
You can reinforce the weld by adding small pieces of plastic, preferably in the form of thin strips, to the seam. Then, fully melt these strips of plastic by pressing them with the soldering iron tip until they are liquefied. Smoothly distribute the liquefied plastic along the seam. Finally, go over the seam and the surrounding plastic with swift, smooth strokes of the soldering iron.
It is important to note that the repaired joint will likely not be as strong as the original plastic. Additionally, the process may require some experimentation to determine the appropriate temperature and duration of contact with the soldering iron.
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Hot plate welding
To achieve good-quality welds, it is important to ensure that the components are firmly positioned in the holding fixtures before initiating the welding cycle. The surfaces to be heated should be flat and free from distortion. The hot plate temperature ranges from 400 to 550 °C (752 to 1,022 °F), and the weld surfaces are typically placed within a few millimetres of the hot plate.
Non-contact hot plate welding is a variant where the weld surfaces are melted without touching the hot plate through convection and radiation heating. This method is only suitable for small parts with dimensions not exceeding 100 by 100 millimetres. Another variant is hot wedge or hot shoe welding, used for joining thin sheets with lap seams.
The final step in hot plate welding is the joining phase, where the components are mechanically assembled and cooled under axial load. This process ensures that the welded joints are strong and secure.
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Laser welding
When preparing to use laser welding, it is important to consider the following:
- Compatibility of Plastics: The plastics being joined should have similar melting points to ensure they mix well in the weld pool and provide mechanical strength to the joint. For example, engineering plastics melt at around 480°F (250°C), while other plastics like polyether ether ketone (PEEK) have much higher melting points, ranging from 660° to 750°F (350° to 400°C).
- Chemical Compositions: Some plastics are difficult or impossible to weld together due to their chemical compositions. For instance, it is challenging to weld high-density polyethylene (HD-PE) with polypropylene (PP). However, it is possible to weld low-density polyethylene (LD-PE) to PP, despite both being polyethylenes.
- Light Transmission and Absorption: Laser beams used in plastic welding are typically in the near-infrared and infrared regions, with wavelengths ranging from 800 to 2,000 nm. The plastics being welded must have suitable transmission and absorption properties within this range.
- Part Geometry: Parts to be welded should be shaped to fit closely together without gaps at the joint. Laser welding struggles to transmit heat across air gaps. Lap welds are easier to achieve, while good laser butt welds require tight tolerances and precise beam targeting. Large or complex parts may need to be pressed together during welding for a successful join.
- Laser Transmission Welding for Clear Components: Traditional transmission welding struggles with clear components, but LPKF offers a patented ClearJoining procedure that enables laser light absorption in clear plastics, creating clear-clear joints without additives.
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Plastic overmoulding
One example of its application is in creating a soft finish for a hand-grip on a tool, such as a drill, while maintaining a robust structure for the tool housing. It is also useful when a metal substrate needs to be combined with a plastic or rubber overmoulding material. In this case, recesses or holes are machined into the metal to allow the overmoulding material to flow and form a locking shape when cooled.
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