Sofia Martinez
Joining plastic water pipes is a straightforward process, but it requires careful preparation and the right tools. There are several methods for joining plastic pipes, including solvent welding, compression fittings, and electrofusion fittings. Solvent welding involves using a solvent cement to fuse two pieces of plastic piping together. This method creates a solid and waterproof bond, but it requires careful application and good ventilation due to the dangerous fumes produced. Compression fittings, on the other hand, involve tightening a threaded nut over a cone-shaped rubber washer to create a secure, watertight connection. Electrofusion fittings use electricity to melt a small amount of the pipe fitting and form a join. Before joining any pipes, it is important to prepare the pipes by removing any burrs or dirt and testing the fit. It is also crucial to use the correct type of solvent and fittings for the specific type of pipe being used.
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What You'll Learn
Using solvent cement
Joining plastic water pipes using solvent cement creates a solid and waterproof bond. This method is ideal for fusing two pieces of plastic piping of various shapes and sizes.
First, ensure you are wearing gloves, goggles, and a respirator mask, and that you are working in a well-ventilated environment. Using a pipe cutter, handsaw, or specialised plastic pipe cutter, cut your pipe. It is important that your pipe is cut square for the most snug connection. After cutting, use a piece of medium-grit sandpaper or a file to deburr the inside and outside of your pipe. This will get rid of any rough edges and make the fitting process easier.
Next, apply a liberal coat of solvent cement to the exterior of the pipe end. Ensure you apply beyond the fitting hub depth. Then, apply cement inside the fitting hub. Re-dip the dauber back into the cement and apply to the outside of the pipe end. Remember to apply cement within five minutes of priming, and stir or shake the cement before using.
Insert the pipe into the fitting, twisting the pipe a quarter turn as you push it into the fitting. Make sure the pipe end bottoms out inside the fitting hub and hold for 30 seconds to prevent push-out. Wipe off any excess cement that may squeeze out with a cloth.
Once the pipes are joined, they must be left undisturbed for at least 10 minutes. The solvent cement will be pretty much solid after one minute and fully cured within 24 hours, but this may vary depending on the manufacturer, temperature, and pipe diameter.
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Removing burrs
Identify the Burrs
Before you begin the removal process, it's important to identify the presence and location of burrs. Inspect the cut end of the plastic pipe, both inside and out. Small shards or protrusions of plastic indicate the presence of burrs.
Choose an Appropriate Removal Method
There are several methods for removing burrs from plastic pipes, each with its advantages and considerations:
- Manual deburring: This method uses simple tools like files, sandpaper, or grinding heads to remove burrs by hand. It is generally inexpensive and accessible but may not be suitable for complex burrs or large quantities.
- Die deburring: This method employs a production die and a punch to remove burrs. It offers better efficiency and results than manual deburring but may require additional costs for die production.
- Grinding and deburring: This approach includes techniques like vibration, sandblasting, and rollers. It is commonly used but may require subsequent manual processing to completely remove residual burrs.
- Freeze deburring: This technique involves quickly embrittling the burrs through cooling and then removing them by spraying projectiles. It is suitable for small burr wall thicknesses but may come with equipment costs.
- Hot blast deburring: Also known as thermal or explosion deburring, this method introduces flammable gas into an equipment furnace. The gas is then ignited, and the energy from the explosion dissolves and removes the burrs.
Remove the Burrs
Once you have chosen an appropriate removal method, carefully follow the necessary steps to execute the technique. For example, if using manual deburring with sandpaper, roll a quarter sheet of 80-grit sandpaper into a tube, flattening it slightly to match the curve of the pipe. Hold the sandpaper at an angle, and sand the inside and outside of the pipe until you create slightly beveled edges, free of burrs. Alternatively, you can use a utility knife, deburring tool, or a file/pocketknife to carefully remove the burrs.
Clean the Pipe
After removing the burrs, it is important to clean the pipe to ensure no debris remains that could interfere with the joining process. Wipe the pipe with a rag to remove any dirt or dust. You can also use steel wool, especially if you need to create a shiny surface for welding, as is the case with copper pipes.
Remember to take appropriate safety precautions during the deburring process, and always ensure you have the right tools and equipment for the chosen removal method.
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Attaching couplings
Before attaching the coupling, ensure the bonding surfaces are clean and free of dust, debris, and any oil or water residue. Wipe the inside of the coupling and the outside of the pipe with PVC primer and let it dry for about 10 seconds. Then, apply an even layer of solvent PVC cement to both surfaces.
Now you are ready to attach the coupling. Insert the pipe into the coupling and turn it a quarter of a turn to ensure a strong joint. Hold the connection in place for about 30 seconds while the cement dries. You should then give the joint at least 30 minutes to cure before applying pressure or testing it with water.
Some other types of couplings include compression fittings, which join together by tightening a threaded nut over a cone-shaped rubber washer, and electrofusion fittings, which use electricity to melt a small amount of the pipe fitting to form a join.
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Applying primer
Before applying the primer, it is important to take the necessary safety precautions. Put on safety goggles, preferably with side shields, and protective gloves. The solvent vapours from the PVC primer and cement can be dangerous to your health and may cause dizziness. Therefore, ensure proper ventilation in your workspace or wear an approved organic vapour respirator. Additionally, cover your work surface with a tarp or towel to minimise cleanup in case of any drips or spills.
Now, let's get into the step-by-step process of applying the primer:
First, use the brush included with the primer or a clean brush to apply the PVC primer. You can also wipe it on if a brush is not provided. Apply the primer to the outside of the PVC pipe and the inside of the fitting. Make sure to cover all the connection points thoroughly. Primer softens the plastic and helps the cement adhere better, especially if the pipe surface is not perfectly smooth.
Second, after applying the primer, allow it to dry completely. This usually takes about 10 seconds. Do not proceed to the next step until the primer is dry, as it is crucial for ensuring a strong joint.
Third, once the primer is dry, you can proceed to apply the solvent cement. Follow the instructions provided with your chosen solvent cement or glue, ensuring it is suitable for the type of pipe you are using. Work quickly and efficiently, as the cement dries very fast.
Remember, the bond created by PVC primer and cement is permanent, so be cautious and precise during the application process. Additionally, always read the instructions and safety guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the products you are using.
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Using compression fittings
Compression fittings are a great, low-cost, and simple method for joining plastic water pipes. They are cheap, effective, and easy to use. You can join copper and plastic with many of the same fittings. A compression fitting works in the same way on a plastic pipe as it does on a copper pipe, except that you need to put in a liner to keep the end of the pipe perfectly round and protect the end of the pipe. The liner also prevents the square edge of the plastic from damaging the O-ring, which could cause a leak. Once you have inserted the liner, the nut goes over the end of the pipe, followed by the copper olive, and then the fitting itself. You can then hand-tighten this and then tighten with a spanner until it is crimped on, so the olive compresses onto the pipe.
It is important that your pipe ends are cut cleanly, so make sure you use a pipe cutter. Then, mark the depth of the joint on the cut ends of the pipes and push them fully home, and pull the fitting to test if it is secure. As the sharp metal teeth can cut into plastic and cause leaks, you should use a special protective insert when working with plastic pipe.
The end body of a compression-style MDPE pipe joint is formed to create a partial dish shape, which houses a cone-shaped rubber washer. Over the top of this washer, an MDPE threaded nut attaches to the threaded section of the joint, compressing the washer stack and causing it to expand laterally. So, connecting a compression joint to a pipe is simple: clean and deburr your pipe with wire wool to remove any dirt and residue.
If you are connecting two copper pipes with a length of plastic pipe, you must restore the continuity of the plumbing system's earth bonding by joining the copper pipes with a length of 4mm2 single-core earth cable, secured by earth clamps.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to join plastic water pipes, including solvent welding, compression fittings, and electrofusion fittings. The best method depends on the type of pipe and your specific needs.
First, prepare the pipe by removing any burrs and wiping it down with a rag to remove dirt and dust. Then, apply a coat of solvent cement to both the pipe and the fitting. Quickly join the pieces, twisting slightly to ensure an even spread of solvent. Hold the pieces together briefly to set the joint.
Compression fittings are tightened over a cone-shaped rubber washer to create a secure, watertight connection. When using compression fittings, it is important to ensure that the washer is properly seated and that the nut is tightened securely. It is also a good idea to have extra fittings on hand in case mistakes are made during the joining process.
