
Laying plastic land drainage pipes is a relatively simple process that can be done by following a few steps. The process involves digging a trench, laying the pipes, and then covering them. The type of pipes used can vary depending on the purpose, with perforated pipes used to collect water through small holes and unperforated pipes used to redirect water. The layout of the pipes is typically in a herringbone style with one central pipe and several branches. When installing the pipes, it is important to ensure that they are connected properly to another drainage system and to prevent blockages.
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What You'll Learn

Digging the trench
If your drainage system is designed to drain downhill from the side of a dry well, you will need to dig the trench deep enough to accommodate this. Look for a spot that is lower than the structure you are draining, such as a house, to drain excess water. If you are dealing with clay soil, be aware that this can be challenging to dig through.
Before you start digging, it is important to check for any underground services in the area, such as pipes or cables, to avoid damaging them. You can do this by contacting your local utility company or using a cable avoidance tool. If there is any risk of the soil collapsing into the trench, shore up the sides with plywood boarding and stout timbers.
Once you have dug the trench, line it with permeable geotextile fabric. This will help to prevent soil and debris from entering the drainage pipe.
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Laying the pipes
Laying plastic land drainage pipes is a relatively simple process that can be done in a few steps. Firstly, it is important to determine the layout of the pipes. They should be arranged in a herringbone style, with one central pipe and several branches coming out to ensure efficient drainage. The next step is to dig a trench for the pipes. The trench should be about one metre deep and 350mm wide, with a fall towards the outlet (a soakaway or surface water drain). It is important to run the trench with the contour of the land and use plywood boarding and stout timbers to shore up the sides if there is a risk of collapse.
Once the trench is dug, line it with permeable geotextile fabric and lay clean aggregate to a depth of 75mm, ensuring an even depth and following the fall. Then, lay the perforated plastic drainage pipe in the centre of the trench on top of the gravel bed, keeping it central and flat. Work down the trench, filling it with aggregate to within 200-300mm of ground level. After the pipe is laid, cover it with at least 3 inches of gravel and then landscape fabric to prevent silt buildup. Finally, backfill the trench with soil, tamping it to the surrounding grade.
If you are connecting two lengths of flexible land drain pipes, you will need a connector or Y junction. Most land drain coils come with a built-in coupler at one end, which is a simple push-fit application. It is important to note that land drain pipes should only be used for surface water drainage and never for foul water. Additionally, make sure you can rod the pipes in case of blockage.
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Connecting the pipes
When connecting land drainage pipes, there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly, land drainage pipes are typically arranged in a herringbone style, with one central pipe and several branches to ensure efficient drainage. This system is usually installed using the trench method.
If you are installing a land drain system, you will likely need to connect it to another drainage system to complete surface water removal. To connect two lengths of flexible land drain pipes, you will need a connector or Y-junction. Most land drain coils come with a built-in coupler at one end, which saves you from purchasing a separate one. These couplers are not watertight as they are not intended for foul water transportation. To connect land drain pipes to rigid pipes, a flexible coupler is required, which is a simple push-fit application.
For a paving drainage system, you can create a drainage channel by moulding a concrete strip using plastic guttering. First, place a length of timber at the required distance from the paved surface, slightly wider than the guttering. Hammer in wooden pegs at intervals and nail them to the timber. The channel should be at right angles to the fall of the paving. Next, mix concrete using four parts mixed aggregate to one part cement, and fill the channel with the mixture. Smooth it with a float and then press the guttering into the wet concrete to leave an imprint. Remove the guttering and smooth out any ridges.
Additionally, consider the use of a silt trap before connecting to prevent debris, and always refer to the manufacturer's installation manual for specific instructions.
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Covering the trench
Firstly, ensure that the trench is deep enough to accommodate the pipes and provide proper drainage. The depth of the trench may vary depending on local building codes, soil type, climate conditions, and the drainage system's purpose. However, a common guideline recommends burying drainage pipes at least 12 inches (30 centimetres) below the surface to protect them from freezing temperatures, vehicle traffic, and other potential hazards. In colder regions, it may be necessary to bury the pipes deeper to prevent freezing.
After laying the pipes, the next step is to fill the trench with gravel or crushed stone. This layer should be at least 3 inches (7.6 centimetres) deep and evenly distributed to provide proper drainage and support for the pipes. The gravel or crushed stone helps to prevent soil erosion and ensures that water can flow freely around the pipes.
Once the gravel layer is in place, it's time to add a layer of landscape fabric or geotextile fabric. This fabric layer is essential for preventing silt and roots from clogging the perforations in the drainage pipes. It acts as a protective barrier, allowing water to pass through while keeping the pipes clear of debris. Make sure to use specific geotextile fabrics designed for drainage and avoid substitutes like weed barriers or visqueen.
After the fabric layer is securely in place, it's now necessary to backfill the trench with soil. Carefully pack the soil down firmly as you backfill to prevent settling and ensure a stable foundation. The soil should be compacted enough to completely cover the drainage system and restore the ground surface to its original level.
Finally, you can consider reseeding the surface or covering it with landscaping stone or decorative gravel. This step is particularly important if you plan to install turf or want to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the area. Regularly inspect and maintain the drainage system by keeping the inlet grate and outlet point clear of debris.
By following these steps for covering the trench, you can ensure proper drainage, protect your pipes, and seamlessly integrate your drainage system into your landscape.
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Preventing blockages
Firstly, it is important to understand the two types of land drain pipes: perforated and unperforated. Perforated pipes are used to collect water through small holes, allowing water to seep from the ground and be carried away or percolate back into the soil. Unperforated pipes, on the other hand, have no holes and are used to redirect surface water to a watercourse or a soakaway. Ensure you select the appropriate type of pipe for your specific drainage needs.
When installing the pipes, it is recommended to arrange them in a herringbone style with one central pipe and several branches to maximise efficiency. The trench method is commonly used for installation, and it is crucial to ensure the trench is deep enough to drain downhill. A gravel backfill is then added to the trench, with small stones being recommended. To prevent blockages, cover the gravel with a water-permeable filter fabric or a weed barrier to keep the pipes free from dirt, silt, and tree roots.
Additionally, ensure the drainage holes in the perforated pipes are pointed downward to facilitate effective water flow. Cover the pipes with gravel or crushed stone, followed by another layer of protection with the excess filter fabric. Regularly inspect and clean the inlet grate and outlet point to prevent debris buildup and keep the water flowing freely.
It is also important to consider the slope of the pipe, which is known as the "fall." The pipe system needs to be sloped to allow gravity to move waste along the pipe and prevent blockages. An invert depth calculation is crucial to determine the correct slope, which is done by subtracting the invert level (the level at which the water runs) from the cover level (the ground level when finished).
By following these guidelines, you can effectively prevent blockages when laying plastic land drainage pipes.
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Frequently asked questions
Land drain, also known as French Drain, is the name given to flexible coiled pipes that are laid underground to alleviate excess surface water. They are corrugated and can typically flex 90 degrees per 1m. They come in either perforated or unperforated coils.
Perforated land drains are used to collect water through the small holes located around the pipe. These holes allow water to seep from the ground into the pipe and be carried away or to percolate back into the soil. Unperforated land drains, on the other hand, have no holes and are used to redirect water to a watercourse such as a stream, river, water tank or soakaway.
Typically, land drainage is arranged in a herringbone style with one central pipe and several branches. This ensures the area is drained efficiently. Land drainage is installed using the traditional trench method. Dig a trench deep enough to drain downhill from the side of the dry well. Line the trench with permeable geotextile fabric and lay clean aggregate at the bottom. Then, lay the perforated plastic drainage pipe in the centre of the trench on top of the gravel bed. Cover the pipe with gravel, landscape fabric and spread topsoil over the trench.
If you are connecting two lengths of flexible land drain together, you will need to use a connector or Y junction. All land drain coils come with a built-in coupler at one end of the pipe. To connect land drain to rigid pipes, a flexible coupler is needed.











































