Chloe Zhang
Moving a plastic aquarium can be a challenging task, especially if it's a large tank. It requires careful planning and preparation to ensure the safety of the fish and the integrity of the tank. The process involves removing tank decorations, plants, and fish, as well as draining and storing the water to maintain water conditions and minimise stress on the fish. It is recommended to use containers, buckets, or bags to transport the fish and to keep the tank on its original support unit during the move. Additionally, it is crucial to consider factors such as floor support, electrical supply, and doorway width at the new location.
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What You'll Learn
Plan ahead and prepare equipment
Planning is key when moving a plastic aquarium. It is recommended to start organising the process at least a week in advance.
Firstly, check the weather and avoid moving the aquarium during extreme heat or cold. Make sure the floor in the new location can support the weight of the aquarium and that there is an electrical supply nearby. For large aquariums, ensure doorways and stairwells are wide enough, and you have sufficient turning space in tight corners.
Next, gather the equipment you will need. You will require clean, sealable containers for your fish to travel in, such as plastic tubs or buckets with tight-fitting lids. You will also need a siphon hose, fish nets, a wire strainer or colander, and tarps or other floor protection. If moving in extreme temperatures, use insulated containers to maintain a stable environment for your fish.
Before moving the fish, perform a 25% water change and lightly vacuum the substrate two weeks before the move. Lightly clean the filter but do not disturb the biological media. Instead, keep it wet by placing it in aged aquarium water or a sealed container.
On the day of the move, set up clean, conditioned water in the new location, and refrain from feeding the fish. Remove the fish from the tank using a net, and place them in their temporary containers. Fill the containers one-third with water and two-thirds with air, or 50% water and 50% pure oxygen. Double bag to prevent punctures and lay the bags on their sides to increase swimming space.
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Drain water and remove contents
Before draining the water, it is important to remove the fish and any other aquatic organisms from the tank. This requires great care, as fish tend to get frightened and may become tangled in the nets. Choose the correct net size so that your largest fish will fit inside. Even if the nets are large enough, you'll still need to be cautious so that the fish do not get injured during the transfer. Use two fish nets to catch your fish within the tank. If you are having trouble catching the fish, you can try draining off a little bit of the water first. Working in a shallower tank will make it easier to herd and catch the fish.
Once the fish have been removed, disconnect any power sources from the tank. Whether it's a filter, heater, or just an overhead light, you do not want any active electricity going to your tank when you start to empty the water. A plugged-in electricity source could cause electrocution if it gets wet. This can cause serious injuries which may even be fatal. Once you've unplugged each device, you can move it out of the aquarium so that it is not in the way.
Next, remove all objects from the tank. Taking everything out of the tank before you drain the water will make it much easier to complete the draining process. Remove artificial plants and decorations (like toys or sunken objects) from the aquarium. Leave them in the sink to be cleaned. Doing this before you drain the water will allow any stirred-up debris to settle before you begin emptying the tank.
Now, you can begin to drain the water. There are two main methods of draining an aquarium: siphoning the water out using a hose or a gravel cleaner that simultaneously drains water (such as The Python or Aqueon). If siphoning off the water with a hose, dip one end into the tank and begin filling the other end with water from a tap. Then stop filling the tap end and let it drain out; once water starts draining, it will continue to draw water out of the tank. If using a gravel cleaner, activate the device and submerge the intake end all the way down into the gravel. You'll need to lift and reposition the device periodically as it drains, but it can be much easier and less messy than using a siphon hose.
Finally, remove the gravel or sand. Use a net, wire strainer, or colander to remove the gravel and pack it in buckets or water-tight containers. Gravel should be kept wet to keep important nitrifying bacteria alive. Do not rinse or wash the gravel, as this could remove the helpful bacteria living there.
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Clean and pack contents
Before you start, it is important to assemble the equipment you'll need to move your fish tank at least a week before the actual move. You will need a siphon hose, fish nets, containers to transport water, livestock, gravel, décor and equipment, such as clean buckets or plastic tubs with secure lids, coolers or Styrofoam shipping containers with liners, individual fish bags and rubber bands, a wire strainer or colander, a water conditioner/slime coat replacer, a battery-operated aerator/air pump, and tarps or appropriate floor protection.
Now, you can begin to clean and pack the contents of your plastic aquarium. Firstly, remove all the tank décor and aquarium plants. Check the crevices in any ornaments, as some fish may be seeking refuge in there. Gently lift the ornament just above the water level, and most fish will swim out. Never shake your ornaments. If they do not want to leave their hiding place, place the ornament inside a large-sized fish bag filled one-third with water from your aquarium and try to seal in as much air as possible with a rubber band.
Next, remove 75-80% of the water from your tank and place it into your water containers. You will want to keep this water to avoid the need for large water changes at the other end, which may stress your fish. For a saltwater tank, bringing as much of this water as possible is ideal since it helps maintain a stable tank ecosystem and prevents die-off.
Now, you can start to catch your fish. This task will be made easier if you firstly remove (and save) some of the water from your aquarium, as there will be less room for the fish to swim and evade your net. Place your fish in temporary containers, such as a clean, never-before-used pail with a lid or in plastic bags designed for fish transport, but make sure to leave room for air. Keep aggressive fish species separate to avoid injuries.
With the fish safely removed, you can now scoop out the majority of the substrate (e.g. sand, gravel, etc.) and place it in plastic buckets. This waterlogged substrate will be extremely heavy, so pack it in several containers to spread the load. Do not be tempted to wash your gravel as this will remove or kill your useful bacteria.
Finally, pack the rest of your equipment into empty buckets. Heaters, the filter container, etc. If the tank is small, you may be able to leave the sand. If it's big, it'll be too heavy, so get a flat-bottomed scoop that holds about 4 cups, the kind for dog food, and scoop out the sand into buckets.
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Move the empty aquarium
Moving an empty plastic aquarium is no small feat, but with proper planning, it is feasible to safely move an empty aquarium from one room to another, across town, or even across the country. Here are some detailed instructions to help you prepare for and execute the move:
Plan Ahead:
Start preparing for the move at least a week in advance. Assemble all the equipment you'll need, including a siphon hose, fish nets, containers for transporting water and decor, buckets or plastic tubs with secure lids, coolers or Styrofoam shipping containers, individual fish bags, rubber bands, a wire strainer or colander, a water conditioner, a battery-operated aerator or air pump, and tarps or floor protection.
Prepare the Aquarium:
Two weeks before the move, perform a 25% water change and lightly vacuum the substrate. Lightly clean the filter but avoid disturbing the biological media. Keep the biological media wet by placing it in aged aquarium water or a sealed container. Set up clean, conditioned water at the new location—at least 25% of your tank's volume. Refrain from feeding the fish 24 hours before the move.
Moving Day:
On moving day, start by unplugging the heater and allowing it to cool for 30 minutes before removing it from the aquarium. Check the heating tube for algae and mineral deposits and remove them while the heater is still wet. Remove filtration equipment and circulation pumps. Siphon the tank water into transport containers, then gently remove decor items and artificial plants and pack them appropriately. Wrap the empty aquarium in bubble wrap, old towels, or blankets to protect it during transport. Make sure to have at least one helper to keep the tank level when carrying it.
Transporting the Aquarium:
When transporting the empty aquarium, ensure it is in a secure position in the vehicle and cannot move around too much. Plan a direct route with minimal stops to reduce travel time, as this is better for the health of any fish you may be transporting.
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Set up the aquarium in its new location
Now that you've successfully moved your plastic aquarium to its new location, it's time to set it up. Here are some detailed steps to guide you through the process:
Prepare the new location:
Before placing the aquarium in its new spot, ensure the floor can support the weight of the filled tank and that it is level. Make sure there is an electrical supply nearby for any equipment that needs power. Check that the aquarium is positioned away from extreme temperatures and direct sunlight. If the tank is large or uniquely shaped, ensure it can fit through doorways and has sufficient turning space in tight corners and stairwells.
Unpack and assemble:
Carefully unpack the aquarium and all its components, being mindful not to damage any parts. Place the empty aquarium on its original support unit, such as a cabinet, stand, or table, if possible. If the tank must be lifted and moved, use a piece of sturdy, flat material, like 3/4-inch plywood, and carry it with at least one helper to keep it level.
Refill and condition the water:
Reconnect any filtration equipment and circulation pumps. Refill the aquarium with water, aiming to use about 75%-80% of the original tank water to maintain biological balance and minimise stress on your aquatic pets. For saltwater aquariums, using the existing saltwater is crucial for ecosystem stability. Treat the new water with a water conditioner to ensure it is safe for your fish.
Reintroduce aquatic life:
Before releasing your fish into the tank, allow them to adjust to the new water temperature. Gently net your fish from their temporary containers and release them into their new home. If you have live plants, carefully unpack them from their protective bags and reintroduce them to the tank. Ensure any decorations or structures are securely placed and stable before releasing your fish.
Monitor the aquarium:
After setting up the aquarium, closely monitor the water conditions and the behaviour of your aquatic life. Check water parameters such as pH, temperature, and ammonia levels to ensure they are stable and optimal for your fish. Observe your fish for any signs of stress or illness, and be prepared to make adjustments as needed.
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Frequently asked questions
First, remove all the tank decor and plants. Then, remove and save some of the water from the aquarium, as this will make it easier to catch the fish. Next, gently catch the fish with a net and place them in temporary containers. Now, drain the remaining water into clean, sealable containers. Finally, pack everything into your vehicle for the journey, ensuring the aquarium is wrapped in bubble wrap and secured in a stable position.
You will need: a siphon hose, fish nets, containers to transport water (such as clean buckets or plastic tubs with secure lids), individual fish bags, a wire strainer or colander, a water conditioner, a battery-operated aerator/air pump, and tarps or floor protection.
It is important to transport the fish in spacious and secure containers, such as bowls or bags, with room for air. For less sensitive freshwater fish, you can mix tank and fresh distilled water. For marine aquariums, use the existing saltwater.
