Maya Ellison
Painting plastic model airplanes is a rewarding and fun process that can elevate your hobby to the next level. There are several factors to consider, such as the type of paint and application method, as well as the preparation and finishing techniques. The two primary decisions are the choice of paint and the method of application. The paint types commonly used are enamels, lacquers, and acrylics, each with unique characteristics and application methods. The application can be done through brush painting, spray painting, or airbrushing, with the latter being popular for small-scale models. Proper cleaning and preparation of the model before painting are crucial to ensure a successful paint job. Finishing touches, such as clear coats and decals, add depth and realism to the final product.
How to paint plastic model airplanes
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cleaning | Wash the model with warm water and soap before painting to remove dust, debris, oils, and chemical agents. |
| Paint types | Acrylics, enamels, and lacquers. |
| Paint application | Brush painting, spray painting, or airbrushing. |
| Primer | Use primer for models made of multiple materials or to achieve a uniform color. Spray primer 10-12 inches away from the model with quick, even strokes. |
| Paint mixing | Mix paint for 20-30 seconds before pouring onto a palette, as it may separate in the bottle. |
| Base coats | Use as few strokes as possible. |
| Multiple colors | Use masking to limit overspray. |
| Clear coats | Apply a gloss clear coat before water slide decals. For a realistic look, apply a flat clear coat after decals for a flat or semi-sheen surface. |
| Drying | Allow 24 hours for primer to settle before painting. |
| Brushes | Use synthetic brushes to avoid fraying. |
| Assembly | Paint the whole model or assemble sub-assemblies and paint them separately. |
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What You'll Learn
Cleaning the model
Firstly, it is important to understand why cleaning is necessary. Plastic model airplanes are manufactured using injection moulds and a special oil called a "mould release" to ensure a perfect finish. While manufacturers do wash the kits before packaging, some oil residue remains, making the surface slippery and oily. This oil needs to be removed because it will prevent paint from adhering properly to the model's surface.
Now, let's discuss the cleaning process. The first option is to use an ultrasonic cleaning machine, which is ideal if you have multiple large models to clean. This machine uses water pulsing and vibration scrubbing methods to clean the models. To use it, simply fill the tub with water and soap, and then place the models inside. However, be aware that this method produces toxic fumes, so ensure the area is well-ventilated.
If you only have a few models to clean or prefer a more hands-on approach, you can opt for manual cleaning. Here's what you need to do:
- Disassemble the model: Before you begin cleaning, it is recommended to disassemble the model into its individual parts. This will ensure that you can thoroughly clean all the surfaces and details.
- Prepare a cleaning solution: Fill a bowl with lukewarm water and add a mild soap or dish detergent to create a soapy solution. Avoid using hot water, as it can warp the plastic, and cold water may not be as effective at removing the oil.
- Scrub the parts: Using a soft-bristled toothbrush or a similar small brush, dip it into the soapy solution and gently scrub each piece of the model, paying attention to fine details and crevices. This will help remove the mould release oil and any other contaminants.
- Rinse and dry: Once you have finished scrubbing all the parts, rinse them with lukewarm water to remove any soap residue. Gently shake or tap the parts to remove excess water, and then allow them to air dry completely before proceeding to the next step.
As a final note, if you plan to use alcohol-based paints, such as Tamiya acrylics, enamels, or lacquer paints, you can skip the cleaning process as these paints adhere well to the plastic. However, if you use water-based acrylic paints, cleaning is crucial to ensure the paint job lasts.
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Choosing the right paint
Acrylic paints are a popular choice for indoor painting as they are easy to work with and do not produce harmful vapours. They are also highly durable once dry. When using acrylics, it is recommended to use a primer, as it helps the paint adhere better to the plastic surface. Wet sanding the model before the first coat can also help create a smooth surface for the paint to adhere to. Some popular brands of acrylic paint include Tamiya, Vallejo, Italeri, and Gunze Sangyo.
Enamel paints, on the other hand, are known for their colour accuracy and ease of use. They are often sold as colour-matched paints, eliminating the need for time-consuming colour mixing. Enamels require adequate ventilation during application due to the vapours they produce. Testors Model Master paints are a well-known brand of enamel paint.
Lacquers are the third type of paint commonly used in modelling. They are known for their quick-drying properties, as the solvent in lacquer evaporates without any curing. Lacquers are suitable for creating a glossy finish and are often used for bare metal finishes. Similar to enamels, lacquers require proper ventilation when used indoors. Tamiya spray lacquers are a popular option in this category.
When choosing the right paint for your plastic model airplane, consider factors such as the painting environment, the level of durability required, and the desired finish. Additionally, think about the number of colours needed for your project and whether you require colour accuracy or custom colour mixing. By taking these factors into account, you can select the most suitable paint type from acrylics, enamels, or lacquers to achieve the desired results for your model airplane.
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Using an airbrush
There are two types of airbrushes: single-action and double-action. A single-action airbrush maintains a constant air pressure at the nozzle when the trigger is pressed, and the air pressure is adjusted at the compressor or regulator. On a single-action airbrush, the paint flow is adjusted by moving the paint nozzle in or out of the airstream. A Paasche single-action airbrush, for example, allows you to adjust the paint nozzle by screwing it at the tip.
Double-action airbrushes allow you to regulate airflow and paint flow with the same trigger. By pressing down on the trigger, you increase the air pressure released through the nozzle, up to the pressure level set on the regulator. By sliding the trigger rearward, you can increase the paint flow into the airstream. With practice, a double-action airbrush allows you to easily switch between covering large areas and creating fine lines for details like camouflage.
When using an airbrush, it is important to use paint specifically designed for plastic models. Regular car paint or other types of paint may react poorly with the plastic, potentially melting or damaging the surface. There are various brands of model paint available, including Humbrol, Tamiya, Xtracolour, AeroMaster, and Gunze Sangyo.
Additionally, consider using an enamel-based primer as it tends to adhere better to bare plastic than water-based primers. Once the primer layer is fully dried, gently sand it with fine-grit sandpaper and water to create a smooth base for your paint.
To achieve a bare metal airplane finish, you can use a special paint called Alclad 2, which is airbrushed over a black-painted surface. For a typical World War 2 airplane look, a flat or semi-sheen finish is desired, so a flat clear coat is applied after the decals.
Remember that the quality of your tools matters. Invest in a good compressor and airbrush, and consider getting an air regulator with a pressure gauge and a water trap to prevent water vapour from mixing with your paint.
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Paint application techniques
Painting plastic model airplanes is a highly rewarding and fun process. Here are some paint application techniques to help you achieve the best results:
- Cleaning the Model: Before painting, ensure you clean the model to prevent dust or contaminants from getting sealed under the paint. Use warm water with a few teaspoons of dish soap, and brush the model with a clean toothbrush for a couple of minutes. Rinse and dry the model with a clean cloth.
- Primer: The use of primer depends on the material of your model. If your model is made of multiple materials, such as plastic, wood, or metal, use a primer to achieve a uniform colour. A white spray primer is a good option, sprayed from a distance of 10-12 inches, with quick, even strokes. Let the primer settle for 24 hours before proceeding.
- Mixing Paint: Before painting, mix your paint thoroughly for 20-30 seconds using a mixing stick or spare brush. Enamel and acrylic paints tend to separate over time, so proper mixing is essential.
- Base Coats: When starting to paint, use as few brush strokes as possible for the base colour. Work from the largest coats of paint down to the smallest details.
- Layering: Use a combination of brush painting and spray painting to layer colours. For spray painting, use quick bursts of colour to apply coats evenly.
- Brushes: Opt for synthetic brushes to avoid fraying. Synthetic sable or fox hair brushes are good choices, as they hold their shape well and are less likely to split with small brush strokes.
- Airbrushing: Airbrushing is a popular technique for small-scale airplane models. It offers excellent control over pressure and paint volume, allowing for fine lines and various effects.
- Masking: For models with multiple colours, use masking techniques to prevent overspray. Spray painting outdoors is also recommended to reduce overspray.
- Clear Coats: Apply a gloss clear coat before adding any water slide decals. After applying decals, a flat clear coat is recommended for a realistic finish, especially for World War 2 airplane models.
Remember, practice makes perfect, and with time and patience, you'll be able to produce elegant and detailed plastic model airplanes.
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Finishing touches
The final touches to your model airplane are all about the small details and ensuring that the paint job is complete and consistent. Here are some steps to follow for the finishing touches:
Paint Touch-ups and Buffing
Firstly, inspect your model for any areas that need touching up. These could be spots where the paint has chipped or areas that you missed during the initial painting. Use a small brush or airbrush to carefully apply paint to these areas, ensuring that you don't get paint on the surrounding areas. Once the touch-ups are dry, gently buff the painted surfaces to smooth out any rough patches and improve the overall appearance. Use a soft cloth or an old t-shirt for buffing, and be careful not to apply too much pressure to avoid removing the paint.
Applying a Gloss Coat
After buffing, apply a gloss coat over the entire model. This adds shine and depth to the paint job. Make sure to mask off any windows, open interiors, or areas that you don't want to get gloss on. You can use clear lacquers or clear acrylics for this step. Apply the gloss coat evenly and let it dry completely before proceeding to the next step.
Simulating Glass and Lights
Use a small amount of gloss cote on a toothpick or fine brush to add details to the model, simulating glass, lights, and dial faces. This step requires precision and patience to ensure that you don't accidentally get gloss on unwanted areas.
Final Assembly
Once all the paint and gloss details are complete and dry, it's time to assemble the final parts of the model. This includes affixing the fuselage halves together and adding any remaining small details, such as antennas or grab handles.
Detailing the Cockpit
The level of detail you add to the cockpit depends on your preference and the visibility of the cockpit in the final model. You can highlight boxes and panels with a lighter shade of grey or add colour to knobs, hydraulics, wires, and cables. Seatbelts are typically painted in light brown or beige. You can also add a gloss coat to seal in the details before washing the interior with an oil-based colour if desired.
Remember, these are just general guidelines, and you may need to adapt them based on your specific model and personal techniques. Experimentation is a key part of the model-making process, and you'll develop your own preferred methods over time.
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Frequently asked questions
The three essential types of paint for modelling are acrylics, enamels, and lacquers. Acrylics are the standard paint of choice for most model enthusiasts as they are easy to work with and can be thinned with water. Enamels and lacquers are also popular choices.
First, clean the model with warm water and soap to ensure there is no dust or residue that could prevent the paint from adhering. Then, assemble the model. You can either paint the entire model once it is fully assembled or paint the parts before assembling them. Use a combination of brush and spray painting to layer colours, working from the largest coats of paint down to the smallest details.
Not cleaning the model before painting can cause the paint to not adhere properly and start peeling off. Another mistake is not using primer, which helps the paint adhere to the model and reduces the tendency to peel. However, primer can fill in intricate engravings and make the model thicker, so it may be skipped if the model is made of a single material.
