Omar Khalid
Painting a plastic motorcycle fuel tank can be a tricky task, with many people online debating the best methods to achieve a long-lasting finish. Some people suggest that it is impossible to paint plastic gas tanks, while others have shared their methods for successfully painting their tanks. This article will explore the various methods and considerations for painting a plastic motorcycle fuel tank, including surface preparation, the use of primers and fillers, and the potential impact of ethanol.
How to Paint a Plastic Motorcycle Fuel Tank
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Preparation | Empty the tank and let it dry. Remove the fuel cap and the fuel pump, or mask them with tape. |
| Degreasing | Use a degreaser to remove dirt, grease, and polish. |
| Sanding | Use sandpaper with a grit of 60-80 for the entire tank or 100-220 for spot sanding. Electric sanders are not suitable as they are too fast and can melt the plastic. |
| Decal Removal | Gently warm and remove decals with a hair dryer. Use a degreaser to soften any remaining adhesive. |
| Priming | Prime the spots where the plastic of the tank is visible with a plastic primer. |
| Filler | Apply a 2-pack filler and let it dry thoroughly. |
| Sanding (continued) | Sand with P500/600 dry or wet P1000 before painting. |
| Painting | Start applying the colours. |
| Clear Coat | Finish with a 2-pack clear coat. |
| Ethanol | Ethanol is generally not an issue. Keep the fuel inside the tank and wipe it off after filling up. Alternatively, coat the inside of the tank with a product like Caswell before painting. |
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What You'll Learn
Sanding the tank
Start with a 60 or 80 grit cloth-backed quality sandpaper. It is important to sand by hand, as electric sanders tend to be too fast and can melt the plastic. Work the sandpaper over the entire surface of the tank, ensuring that you get into all the curves and crevices. This initial sanding step should be done thoroughly and may require some elbow grease.
Once you have gone over the entire tank with the initial grit, move up to the next level of grit, such as 100, and repeat the process. Continue sanding until you reach a grit of 220, which will help create that desired "fur" texture. It is important to take your time during this process and ensure that the entire tank has an even and consistent texture.
After sanding, it is a good idea to degrease the tank again to remove any remaining dirt, grease, or polish. This will help ensure that the paint adheres properly and that the final finish is smooth and flawless. Additionally, it is worth considering using a small squeegee to maintain the curvy shape of the tank while sanding, as this will help prevent flat spots in the paint.
For difficult-to-reach spots, you can use Scotch-Brite (grey) to ensure that all areas of the tank are properly sanded and prepared for painting. It is important to pay attention to detail during this process to ensure the best possible outcome for your painted fuel tank.
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Removing decals
Warming the Decal:
Start by warming the decal and its immediate area. Use a hairdryer on a low setting or a heat gun on its lowest temperature to avoid damaging the paint. Keep the heat source at a distance and slowly move it across the decal until it is warm. This step helps soften the adhesive underneath, making the decal easier to remove.
Peeling the Decal:
Once the decal is warm, try to gently peel it off using your fingernails. Start from one edge and slowly work your way towards the centre. Be patient during this process, as rushing it may result in tearing the decal, leaving remnants behind. If the decal is particularly stubborn, use a small amount of dental floss to get underneath the edge and slowly work it back and forth to create a gap, then continue peeling with your fingernails.
Removing Residue:
After removing the decal, there may be adhesive residue left on the fuel tank. To remove this residue, use a product like WD-40 or Goo Gone. Spray the product onto the residue and let it soak for a few minutes to soften the glue. Then, gently rub or scrub the area with a rag or your thumb to remove the remaining adhesive. Avoid using sharp objects or metal tools, as these can damage the tank's surface.
Sanding the Tank:
Once all the decals and residue are removed, you may need to sand the tank to smooth out any imperfections or scratches. Use fine-grit sandpaper (such as P400 or P800) and gently sand the area until it feels smooth. It is important to maintain the curvy shape of the tank while sanding, so consider using a small squeegee to guide the sandpaper along the surface.
Priming and Painting:
After sanding, ensure the tank is clean and dry. Prime any spots where the plastic is exposed, using a suitable plastic primer. Once the primer is dry, you can start applying your chosen paint colour. It is recommended to use a 2-pack filler and a clear coat to achieve a smooth and durable finish.
It is important to note that some decals may be covered by a clear coat, and attempting to remove them may damage the paintwork. Always assess the condition of your fuel tank and choose the appropriate removal method.
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Priming the tank
Once the tank is sanded, it's time to prime. The spots where the plastic of the tank is visible must be primed with a plastic primer. You can use a 2-pack primer for this. It is important to address any bare plastic before priming. This will ensure that the paint adheres properly and prevents peeling. After priming, apply a filler, preferably a 2-pack filler, and let it dry thoroughly. Sand again with P500/600 dry or wet P1000 to prepare for the colour coat.
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Painting the tank
Painting a motorcycle fuel tank can be a tricky process, but with the right tools and preparation, it can be done successfully. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Start by emptying the tank and letting it dry completely. Remove the fuel cap and the fuel pump, or mask them with tape if you prefer. It is important to thoroughly degrease the paint at this stage, as dirt, grease, and polish can be deep in the scratches. You can use a degreaser to soften any sticky residue left by decals, and then rub it off with your thumb.
Next, you will need to sand the tank to create a surface that the paint can adhere to. Use a small squeegee to maintain the curvy shape of the tank and ensure that the sandpaper follows the surface correctly. This will help you avoid flat spots in the paint. For hard-to-reach spots, you can use Scotch-Brite. Start with a lower grit sandpaper, such as 60 or 80 grit, and gradually move up to a finer grit, stopping at around 220 grit. The goal is to create a white "fur" texture on the surface of the plastic.
Once you have finished sanding, it is time to prime the tank. Any spots where the plastic of the tank is visible must be primed with a plastic primer. After priming, you can apply a filler to smooth out any imperfections. Let the filler dry thoroughly, and then sand it again with a finer grit sandpaper, such as P500/600 dry or wet P1000.
Now you are ready to start applying the colour. Choose a paint that is suitable for plastic surfaces, such as a two-component paint or a normal 2K paint. Apply the paint carefully, following the instructions on the product you have chosen.
Finally, finish with a clear coat to protect the paint job and give it a glossy finish. A two-pack clear coat is a good option for this.
With these steps, you can successfully paint your plastic motorcycle fuel tank and give it a new lease of life. Just take your time, work carefully, and always ensure that the tank is clean and properly prepared before moving on to the next step.
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Finishing with a clear coat
Once you are happy with the colour coats, you can finish with a clear coat. This will help protect the paint job and ensure its longevity.
Firstly, you will need to decide on the type of clear coat to use. A two-pack clear coat is often recommended for painting plastic motorcycle fuel tanks. This type of clear coat is durable and provides a high-quality finish. However, other options, such as fibreglass resin, can also be used and may be preferable if you are looking for a solid finish that won't bubble.
Before applying the clear coat, it is essential to prepare the surface properly. This includes ensuring that the tank is thoroughly dry and that any previous coatings, such as clear coats or decals, have been removed or sanded down. Use a fine grit sandpaper, such as P400 or P800, to gently sand the surface and create a smooth base for the clear coat to adhere to. It is important to take your time during this step and ensure that all imperfections are sanded out.
Once the surface is prepared, you can apply the clear coat. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific product you are using. Typically, you will want to apply several thin coats rather than one thick coat. This will help to avoid drips and ensure a more even finish.
After applying the clear coat, it is important to allow sufficient drying time before handling the tank or reassembling it onto the motorcycle. Refer to the product instructions for the recommended drying time. Once dry, you can admire your handiwork and enjoy the new look of your motorcycle fuel tank!
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Frequently asked questions
First, empty the tank and let the inside dry. Remove the fuel cap and the fuel pump, or mask them with tape, and thoroughly degrease the paint. Sand the tank with P400 or wet P800 sandpaper, and then gently sand off the clear coat. To maintain the curvy shape of the tank, use a small squeegee so the sandpaper follows the surface correctly. Next, prime the tank with a plastic primer. Apply a filler, let it dry, and sand again with P500/600 dry or wet P1000. Start applying the colours and finish with a 2-pack clear coat.
No, it is not necessary or beneficial to strip the tank. You can simply sand it, colour coat, and then clear over that, leaving the factory prime intact.
Gently pull off the decals. If there is sticky residue remaining, use a degreaser to soften it and then rub it off with your thumb.
You can use normal 2K paint. If you are painting Polyethylene or Polypropylene gas tanks and motorcycle parts, start with a 60 or 80 grit cloth-backed quality sandpaper. Sand the surface until you achieve a white "fur" texture, and then move to the next grit, perhaps 100, then 120, and stop at 220.
