Sofia Martinez
Plastic cove ceilings are a prominent feature in many older homes, and they can be a beautiful addition to a room. Remodelling plastic cove ceilings can be challenging, especially in older homes, as it involves a transition from a stable thickness (drywall) to a variable thickness (plaster). The process requires careful planning and execution to ensure a seamless finish. One popular method is to use pre-made cove pieces made of drywall or styrofoam, which are installed before the drywall goes up. Additionally, PVC is a common material used for remodelling cove ceilings, with VERSATEX Stealth Beadboard being a popular product.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Plastic, Plaster, Drywall, Styrofoam, Cement-based plaster, Cement |
| Techniques | Cutting, Sanding, Taping, Mudding, Painting, Sheetrocking, Plastering |
| Considerations | Transition from new to old, Thickness variation, Curve creation, Framing |
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What You'll Learn
Using pre-made coving
Remodelling plastic cove ceilings can be done using pre-made coving. This is a cost-effective and user-friendly way to improve the look of a space. There are various types of pre-made coving available, made from different materials such as wood, plastic, and polyurethane. Plastic coving, also known as PVC coving, is a popular choice due to its lightweight, durable, and moisture-resistant properties. It is commonly used in bathrooms, kitchens, and areas with high humidity.
When choosing pre-made coving, consider the design, style, and colour to ensure it complements the décor and suits the room's scale. The intended use and durability of the material are also important factors. For example, flexible coving is suitable for curved and irregular shapes, while rigid coving is better for straight edges.
Installation of pre-made coving is generally easy and can be done without professional help. Plastic coving often comes with pre-cut edges and adhesive backing, simplifying the process. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions. For rigid coving, screws and plugs may be required, while flexible coving typically uses coving adhesive.
Pre-made coving is an excellent way to enhance the beauty of a home, hide wires and cables, and cover imperfections in walls and ceilings. It provides a smooth transition between walls and ceilings, improving the aesthetic appearance and functionality of corners. Overall, using pre-made coving is a cost-effective, time-saving, and user-friendly option for remodelling plastic cove ceilings.
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Plastering or sheetrocking
First, you need to cut away some of the existing plaster near the wall-ceiling junction. This step ensures a smooth transition from the old surface to the new. It is important to create a gradual slope rather than a sharp edge to avoid any noticeable flat spots or ditches.
Next, you can use a piece of plastic, such as a cut-up joint compound bucket, to create a template that follows the desired curve. This template will guide your new plaster application and ensure a consistent curve. Mix a batch of easy-sand 90 or similar material, and apply it along the surface using a screed. This initial layer may not provide a perfect finish, but it will get you close to the desired shape.
Once this layer has dried, you can use a regular joint compound and mud knives to fine-tune the curve and create a seamless transition from the wall to the ceiling. This step requires careful work to blend the new plaster smoothly with the existing surfaces.
Alternatively, instead of plastering, you can choose to sheetrock the ceiling using a double layer of flexboard. Flexboard is a special type of drywall designed to easily bend and conform to curved shapes. This method may be easier than creating a perfect curve with plaster, as it relies on the flexibility of the flexboard sheets.
Overall, remodeling plastic cove ceilings with plaster or sheetrock requires careful planning and execution, but the end result is a beautiful, smooth curve that adds a unique touch to your space.
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Sanding after the first coat
Sanding a plastic cove ceiling after the first coat is an important step to ensure a smooth and professional finish. Cove ceilings, often found in older houses, feature a curved transition from the wall to the ceiling, creating a soft and elegant look. Here is a detailed guide on how to approach sanding after the first coat:
Preparation:
Before starting the sanding process, it is crucial to prepare the area thoroughly. This includes clearing the room as much as possible by removing furniture and covering the floor and remaining furniture with heavy-duty plastic sheets. It is recommended to tape the plastic sheets in place to prevent tripping. Cover electrical outlets and light fittings, and if possible, remove them to reduce the risk of electrical shocks. Don't forget to protect yourself as well by wearing eye goggles, a respirator mask, and protective clothing to avoid inhaling dust or getting it in your eyes.
Choosing the Right Sandpaper:
The type of sandpaper you choose will depend on the desired finish and the material of your ceiling. If you want to remove material quickly and are not concerned about scratches, coarse-grit sandpaper is a good option. However, if you want a smoother finish without scratching the plastic cove surface, opt for fine-grit sandpaper.
Sanding Technique:
Once you're ready to start sanding, use a long pole with a sanding pad attached, which will help you reach the ceiling easily. Gently run the sander across the entire ceiling area, ensuring uniform sanding. Pay close attention to any bumps or ridges left after the first coat and focus on sanding those areas to create an even surface. If there are any noticeable imperfections after the first sanding, you may need to apply a second coat of paint or sealant, followed by another round of sanding.
Cleaning Up:
After you've finished sanding, it's crucial to clean the room thoroughly to remove any dust. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove as much dust as possible, and wipe down surfaces to ensure no dust remains. This step is important to prevent dust from affecting the next steps of your remodel, such as painting or wallpapering.
Additional Considerations:
If your house was built in the 1970s or 1980s, there is a possibility of asbestos in the drywall compounds used for textured ceilings. Asbestos is hazardous to your health, so it is recommended to test for it before starting any sanding work. If asbestos is detected, do not proceed with sanding and seek professional assistance.
Remember, sanding a ceiling can be a tiring and time-consuming process, so take your time and work patiently to achieve the best results.
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Transitioning from wall to ceiling
Transitioning from a wall to a ceiling can be challenging, especially when dealing with different thicknesses and materials. Here are some detailed instructions and tips to help you remodel plastic cove ceilings and achieve a smooth transition:
Planning and Materials
Before starting the transition, it is essential to plan the layout and choose the appropriate materials. Mark the starting point and ensure that the reveal established by the first board matches the final board on the opposite side. Consider using pre-made cove pieces made from drywall or styrofoam, which can provide a seamless transition if installed before drywall.
Cutting and Sinking
To ease the transition from the wall to the ceiling, cut away a portion of the plaster and sink the drywall slightly down the wall. This technique helps create a smoother finish by reducing the thickness difference between the wall and ceiling.
Template Creation
Create a template using a piece of plastic, such as a cut-up joint compound bucket. This template should smoothly transition from the flat wall to the curved ceiling. By mixing easy-sand compound and screeding along the surface, you can achieve a close approximation of the desired curve.
Finishing and Refinement
Once the template is dry, apply a regular joint compound using mud knives and carefully transition from the wall to the curve. This step may require some adjustment to achieve the desired smoothness. Remember that transitions are often not constant curves, so be prepared to adapt your approach accordingly.
Professional Guidance
For complex transitions, consider seeking professional guidance from contractors or experienced remodelers. They can provide valuable insights and techniques to ensure a clean and seamless transition from the wall to the ceiling, especially when dealing with unique ceiling shapes or challenging material transitions.
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Using plastic templates
Plastic cove ceilings can be remodelled using plastic templates. This method is useful when you want to replicate the look of an old coved ceiling, which features a curve that connects the walls to the ceiling instead of a 90-degree inside corner.
The first step is to create a template that will guide the transition from the flat wall to the curve. You can use a piece of plastic, such as a cut-up joint compound bucket, to create this template. This template doesn't need to be perfect, but it should get you close to the desired shape.
After creating the template, you can mix a compound such as easy-sand 90 and screed it along the surface, following the contours of your template. Once this layer dries, you can apply a regular joint compound with mud knives, carefully transitioning from the wall through the curve.
For a more seamless finish, it is recommended to install the cove before drywall goes up. You can use drywall or styrofoam for the cove itself, ensuring that you shim it out to match the thickness of your drywall.
Additionally, when working with plastic cove ceilings, it is important to consider the framing required to create the curve. You can use special drywall, such as flexboard, which is designed to navigate curves more easily. Alternatively, you can plaster the structure after installing it.
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Frequently asked questions
Cove ceilings are those that make a curve that connects the walls to the ceiling instead of a 90-degree inside corner. You can buy premade coves made out of plastic, drywall, or styrofoam.
You need to install the plastic cove before the drywall goes up to make a seamless transition. Make sure you shim it out to 1/2" or whatever your drywall size is.
You can use drywall or plaster to create a cove ceiling. The hardest part of creating the curve will be the framing required to do it. After the structure that forms the curve is installed, it can be plastered or sheetrocked using a double layer of flexboard (a special drywall that is made to go around curves).
The finishing will be difficult at the transition from new to old, as you are changing from a stable thickness (drywall) to a variable thickness (plaster). You can cut away some of the plaster and sink the drywall down slightly to make the transition easier.
Plastic cove ceilings are a good option for older homes, especially those built before the mid-1930s, as they replicate the architectural style of that time. They are also a good option for coastal environments as they can help combat expansion and contraction.
