Ethan Clarke
Sealing a plastic shower is an important task to prevent water damage and mould. Plastic shower surrounds are sealed with siliconized caulk, which prevents water from leaking through seams. Over time, caulking can become dry, rotten or mouldy, so it's important to replace it. This involves removing old caulk with a utility knife, cleaning the seams, and applying new caulk with a caulking gun. For cracks in the shower base, extra support may be needed, such as drilling holes and injecting spray foam or grout. Repair kits with epoxy paste and fibreglass cloth can also be used to fix cracks and holes. To seal a shower tray, old sealant must be removed, and the area cleaned and dried before applying new silicone sealant.
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What You'll Learn
Use a repair kit to fix cracks
If you have a cracked plastic shower, you can repair it using a tub and shower repair kit. These kits are typically available at your local hardware store and have everything you need to make a seamless repair. The repair procedure is not difficult or complicated, but before you undertake it, you must assess the likelihood of the crack spreading once you make the repair. If the crack is on the shower base, the likelihood of it spreading is high, so you'll want to add extra support to prevent that from happening. The danger of a crack spreading is small if it's on the shower wall and was caused by an impact or if it's a spider crack that hasn't penetrated all the way through the plastic. In that case, you can proceed with the basic repair procedure using your store-bought repair kit.
First, clean the area around the crack thoroughly using isopropyl alcohol and a rag. Then, transfer a small amount of paste filler from the kit into one of the provided mixing cups. If necessary, use the lightening or darkening toners to adjust the colour to match your shower. Add the catalyst agent to the paste in the ratio recommended by the manufacturer and mix the ingredients together thoroughly to form the activated filler paste. Apply the activated paste mixture to the repair area using the mixing stick provided in the kit, making sure to fully fill the damaged area. Overfill the patch area slightly; it will be sanded down later. Allow the paste to fully harden for at least one hour, or according to the kit instructions.
Once the paste has set, sand it flat with 400-grit sandpaper, which is typically included in most kits. Finally, restore the surface sheen by applying a small amount of automobile wax and buffing it up with a buffing cloth. Some epoxy products contain high concentrations of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), so provide plenty of ventilation and, if you're sensitive to VOCs, wear a respirator.
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Seal with siliconized caulk
Sealing a plastic shower with siliconized caulk is a straightforward process. It is important to note that caulking is essential when two different building materials meet along a joint, as there is often a gap between them. Siliconized caulk is ideal for this purpose because it is flexible, resists shrinkage and cracking, and is mould-resistant.
To begin the sealing process, you must first remove any old caulk or sealant. You can do this by slicing away the old caulk with a utility knife or a sharp knife, being careful not to scratch or damage the surface. After removing most of the caulk, use your finger or thumb to rub off any remaining small strands. Alternatively, you can use white spirit by dabbing a small amount on a cloth and rubbing it over the excess caulk until it comes off.
Once the old caulk is removed, clean the seams with water and allow them to dry. If the area is mouldy, use a mild solution of bleach and water. To ensure a neat application of the new caulk, apply a long, straight strip of masking tape or painter's tape along each side of the seam, leaving approximately a 1/8-inch gap between the tape lines.
Now, you can prepare the siliconized caulk for application. Puncture the tube's aluminium seal with the caulking gun's piercing rod. Insert the tube tip into the caulking gun, then push the metal rod until it contacts the back of the caulk tube. Place the tip of the caulk tube at one end of the seam and squeeze the lever until the caulk starts to flow. Slowly pull the caulking gun along the seam, maintaining steady pressure on the lever to ensure an even flow of caulk. When you reach the end of the seam, press the pressure relief tab to stop the flow of caulk.
Finally, use a damp sponge or your finger to lightly drag along the caulk, spreading it evenly into the seam. Remove the masking tape and make a second pass if necessary to smooth the caulk further. Allow at least 24 hours for the caulk to fully cure before using the shower.
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Prepare the area
To prepare the area, start by removing any old sealant or caulk. Use a sharp knife, chisel, utility knife, or Stanley knife to gently slice away the old sealant or caulk. Be careful not to scratch or damage the surface of the shower. You may need to use a flexible, plastic putty knife to scrape away any remaining sealant or caulk. If there is a lot of old caulk, you may be able to pry a section of it away from the seam and then pull off the rest by hand.
Once the old sealant or caulk has been removed, clean the area thoroughly. Use a damp cloth soaked in warm water and a mild detergent or liquid dish soap to wipe down the shower tray and tiles. If there is mould or mildew present, you can use a mild solution of bleach and water or isopropyl alcohol and a rag to clean the area. Remove any detergent with a damp cloth and then wipe the area dry with a paper towel or cloth. It is important to ensure that the shower tray and walls are completely dry before applying new sealant or caulk.
If you are repairing a crack in a plastic shower stall, you may need to add extra support to prevent the crack from spreading. One way to do this is to drill a series of 1/4-inch holes around the crack and inject spray foam or grout, which will expand and solidify to support the base. Be sure to wear protective clothing and use a high-density, non-expanding foam.
Before applying the new sealant or caulk, it is important to read the manufacturer's instructions. Some sealants may require the surface to be completely dry for a couple of hours before application, while others may have specific preparation requirements. It is also important to use the right type of sealant or caulk that is compatible with the materials used in your shower.
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Apply the sealant
To apply the sealant, start by reading the manufacturer's instructions. The sealant must be fully cured before it comes into contact with water. Ensure that the shower tray and walls are completely dry, and free from dirt and dust. If there is any moisture remaining, the silicone sealant may not adhere properly.
Next, cut the application nozzle on the sealant tube at a 45-degree angle. The nozzle will have marks indicating where and how to trim it, and a 5mm hole is typical for most applications. Place the tip of the tube at one end of the seam and apply gentle pressure to the trigger of the application gun. Slowly pull the gun along the seam in one long, continuous movement, using steady pressure to ensure an even flow of caulk.
Once you reach the end of the seam, press the pressure relief tab on the caulking gun to stop the flow of caulk. Lightly drag a damp sponge or wet finger along the caulk to spread it evenly into the seam, and make a second pass if necessary to smooth it out.
Remove the masking tape and use paper towels to clean up any excess sealant. The fresh silicone sealant should then be left to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before use.
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Smooth and dry the sealant
Smoothing the sealant is an important step in the sealing process. If the sealant beads aren't smoothed while still wet, this can cause uneven edges and gaps where water can intrude. It is best done carefully and only once to achieve the best results. Use a caulking tool, a remover and smoother tool, or a wet finger to smooth the bead. You can also use a lolly stick or a silicone shaping and finishing tool to create perfect smooth beads. Avoid using soap, as this can impact the sealant's integrity.
As soon as you finish an area, you should smooth the line. You won't want to wait too long before smoothing it as the sealant might begin to dry. Smoothing the bead helps it adhere to the surface and gives it a crisp finish.
After smoothing, carefully remove the masking tape from the walls and tray at a 90-degree angle while the silicone is still wet and has not begun curing. Allow the fresh silicone caulk seal to fully cure, which generally takes at least 24 hours until it is no longer tacky. Avoid water contact as the sealant cures.
Once the curing process is complete, carefully test the new shower tray seal by directing water onto the walls and edges around the tray. Use a detachable shower head to check for leaks and verify that water flows consistently into the drain with no cracks or openings at the tray corners.
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