Maya Ellison
A watch bezel is the rim surrounding the watch crystal that frames the dial. While a bezel on a simple, time-only watch is usually plain, some bezels have functions. For example, divers use a watch bezel to measure elapsed time when they are in the sea. To set this up, the bezel is rotated until the zero position, usually marked by an arrow, aligns with the minute hand. Another type of bezel is the GMT bezel, which is used for indicating time zones. The GMT bezel has 24-hour markings, and the time zone can be adjusted by rotating the bezel.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Function | To measure elapsed time, especially for divers, or for counting up or down |
| Usage | Rotate the bezel until the zero position (usually an arrow) is aligned with the minute hand. |
| Identification | The rim surrounding the watch crystal which frames the dial. Can be made of metal, plastic, or ceramic. |
| Design | Can be plain or decorative with studs, screws, engravings, jewels, etc. |
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What You'll Learn
Identify the type of bezel
The bezel is one of the most widely varying and defining parts of a watch. It is the ring that surrounds the face of the watch, serving as a protective guard for the crystal and an aesthetic frame for the dial. Bezels can be fixed or rotating and can be plain or feature a variety of markings. They can be made of the same material as the case middle or caseback, or they can be made of a different material.
Fixed bezels are one of the most common types of watch bezels. They function as protection for the watch crystal and dial, adding to the aesthetics of the watch more than its utility. They are often embellished with precious stones or intricate designs.
Rotating bezels bring an interactive component to timekeeping. Unidirectional rotating bezels, commonly found on divers' watches, prevent accidental adjustment underwater, ensuring safety through accurate timing. They are inscribed with a 60-minute scale for setting dive times. Bidirectional rotating bezels, on the other hand, are versatile and found on pilots' watches for calculations and adjustments on the fly.
Tachymeter bezels are used to calculate speed over a fixed distance. They are popular among racers and those who appreciate a watch that can keep up with their pace.
GMT bezels allow you to track the hour in multiple time zones. They are marked with 24-hour indicators that can be rotated to correlate to any time zone in the world.
Compass bezels have markings indicating the cardinal directions and can be used in conjunction with the bidirectional center hand to point you in the right direction.
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Rotate the bezel to align with the minute hand
The rotating bezel is a functional and stylish element of a watch. It is the rim surrounding the watch crystal that frames the dial. To set your plastic bezel watch, you must first align the bezel with the minute hand. This is a simple process, but it must be done carefully to avoid misalignment.
To begin, locate the zero mark on the bezel. This is usually indicated by an arrow or a triangle symbol. Next, rotate the bezel until the zero mark is aligned with the minute hand. This is the starting point for measuring elapsed time. It is important to note that some bezels are designed to rotate only in one direction, typically counterclockwise, so be sure to check the instructions for your specific watch. Once the bezel is aligned, you can begin to measure the elapsed time.
The minute hand will point to a number on the bezel, indicating the number of minutes that have passed since you set the bezel. For example, if the minute hand is now pointing to the number 10 on the bezel, then 10 minutes have elapsed. This is a useful feature for divers who need to monitor their underwater time to ensure a safe ascent. It is also helpful for travellers and pilots managing time zone differences and flight planning.
It is important to periodically check that the bezel rotates smoothly and is not sticking or jumping. If it feels gritty, a small drop of machine oil can be applied to the mechanism, and any excess wiped away. Be careful not to use thick grease, as this may inhibit movement. Additionally, be mindful of potential impacts that could damage or misalign the bezel, and always handle your watch with care.
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Understand the GMT bezel for international travel
A bezel is the rim surrounding the watch crystal which frames the dial. While a bezel on a simple, time-only watch is usually plain and decorative, a watch with additional functions may have a specialised bezel. One such example is the GMT bezel, which is designed for international travel.
GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, which is often used for time zones. The GMT bezel has 24-hour markings around it, and on the dial is a GMT hand. To use a GMT bezel, first ensure that the time displayed on the dial reflects the time in your current location. Then, to find the time in your home country, identify the time difference. If your home country is ahead of your local time, rotate the bezel to the left; if it is behind, rotate it to the right. Each click of rotation represents one hour behind or ahead. For example, if the time at home is four hours ahead of your local time, you should rotate the bezel four clicks to the left.
The GMT bezel can usually be turned in both directions. There are two types of watches with a GMT function: first-generation GMT watches, in which the hour and GMT hands move simultaneously, and second-generation GMT watches, in which the hour and GMT hands move independently of each other. Second-generation GMT watches can be further divided into office GMT or caller GMT and true GMT or traveller GMT.
With a traveller GMT, the hour hand for the local time can be set in both directions by turning the crown in the second position, while the GMT hand remains fixed. In the third position of the crown, all hands move together, so to set the new local time after arriving in a different time zone, only the hour hand for the local time needs to be set, while the GMT hand, which indicates the home time, stays the same.
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Learn how to attach and remove a bezel
To attach and remove a bezel, you will need to use the correct tools to minimise the risk of scratching or damaging the watch. Here is a list of tools you may need:
- Watchmaker's loupe or magnifying glass: This will allow you to closely examine the bezel edges and clips.
- Soft cloth or pad: Place the watch face-down on a soft cloth or pad to protect the watch face and case from scratches.
- Rubber gloves or finger cots: These will help you maintain your grip and prevent oils from your fingers from contaminating the internal components.
- Plastic pry tools: Non-metallic tools such as plastic or nylon pry tools are ideal for reducing the risk of scratching delicate finishes.
- Case knife or case opener: Use a thin, flat blade carefully to lift the bezel without scratching the surface.
- Rubber ball: A sticky rubber ball can be used to twist off threaded or friction-fit bezels.
- Tweezers: Fine-point tweezers can assist in handling small components once the bezel is removed.
Before attempting to remove or attach a bezel, it is important to understand the type of bezel and the specific attachment method. Some bezels may be snapped on, while others may be screwed or secured with clips. Rotating bezels are typically found on sports watches and can be easily removed. If your bezel does not snap on with your fingers, you can apply extra leverage by gently pushing the bezel face down on a watch placed on a towel spread over a sturdy surface.
To remove a bezel, use a specialised tool such as a bezel removal tool with a forked or pointed end to gently pry the bezel away from the watch case. You can also use a case knife to carefully lift the bezel. Place a cloth or tape around the perimeter of the bezel to prevent scratches on the watch case. Press the edge of the knife between the bezel and the body of the watch, wiggling the blade slightly to release the bezel from the spring. Then, carefully pull up the bezel.
To attach a bezel, first, place the inner ring on the watch. Then, insert the spring into the hole in the case, gently tucking the long part into the slot along the raised round part of the watch. Align the notches in the spring ring with the grooves in the watch to ensure proper ratcheting. Next, take the bezel (with the insert removed) and line it up with the case, starting at the spring. Apply even pressure with your fingers as you work your way around the bezel until you hear a distinct click, indicating that it has snapped into place.
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Explore the different types of bezels and their functions
Watch bezels can be divided into two main categories: fixed and rotating. Fixed bezels are immovable and often serve a decorative purpose, although they also protect the watch crystal and dial. They can be embellished with jewels or patterns or feature additional information such as a pulsometer or telemeter scale.
Rotating bezels, on the other hand, bring interactivity to timekeeping. They can be unidirectional, meaning they rotate in one direction, or bidirectional, rotating in both directions. Unidirectional rotating bezels are commonly found on divers' watches, as they prevent accidental adjustment underwater, ensuring safety through accurate timing. Bidirectional rotating bezels are versatile and are used on pilots' watches for calculations and adjustments on the fly.
Within these two main categories, there are several types of bezels, each with its own unique function:
- Count-up and countdown bezels: Count-up bezels are common on divers' watches, allowing them to track how much time they spend underwater. Countdown bezels, on the other hand, count from 60 to 0 and are used to measure the distance a runner or swimmer can cover in a certain amount of time.
- GMT bezels: These bezels allow travellers to track the hour in multiple time zones. They are marked with 24-hour indicators that can be rotated to correlate to any time zone.
- Compass bezels: These bezels feature markings indicating the cardinal directions and are popular among adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. They can be used to orient oneself when paired with the hour hand of the watch.
- Tachymeter bezels: Tachymeter bezels are used to calculate speed over a fixed distance. They are often used by racers and those who require precise speed measurements.
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Frequently asked questions
A watch bezel is the rim surrounding the watch crystal that frames the dial. It is usually made of metal but can also be made of other materials such as plastic or ceramic.
To set the time on your plastic bezel watch, simply rotate the bezel until the zero position, usually marked by an arrow, aligns with the minute hand.
GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time and is used for indicating time zones. The GMT bezel has 24-hour markings, and the dial has a GMT hand. To use it, first set the current time on the dial. Then, if your home country is ahead of your local time, rotate the bezel to the left; if it's behind, rotate it to the right. Each click represents one hour.
There are several types of watch bezels, including the plain bezel, which is purely decorative, and the GMT bezel, which is useful for international travellers. Another type is the countdown bezel, which is used by runners and racers to count down from 60 to zero. Divers use a similar type of bezel to measure elapsed time when they are in the sea.
