
Sewing in plastic boning is a great way to add structure and support to garments. Boning is a thin strip of plastic or metal that is sewn into a garment to provide support or give it a special structure. Plastic boning is most commonly used in the construction of corsets, bustiers, and other garments that require added structure and support. It is flexible, lightweight, and highly resistant to washing detergents and other fluids. Before sewing, it is important to prepare the boning by cutting it to the correct length and finishing the ends. When sewing, it is important to use a heavy-duty needle suitable for thick or rigid materials and to sew alongside the boning to securely hold it in place.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Boning, fabric, sewing machine, matching thread, sewing pins, fabric pencil, tailor's chalk, heavy-duty needle, scissors |
| Preparation | Flatten the boning, cut the boning to the correct length, finish the ends of the boning, iron the seams open, lay the boning down on the center of the seam, mark the seam length on the boning |
| Installation | Sew the seam, lay the boning on top of the open seam, fold the garment back, stitch the boning to the seam allowance only, stitch the other side of the seam allowance to the other side of the boning |
| Finishing | Sew another row of stitching parallel to the seam allowance to create a casing for the boning |
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What You'll Learn

Preparing plastic boning
Choose the Right Boning
Select the appropriate type of boning for your project. Plastic boning is available in various forms, such as pre-cased boning commonly used in bras and bustier tops, and rigilene boning, which is firm yet flexible and can be cut to any length without fraying. Consider the level of support and structure your garment requires.
Gather Your Materials
Ensure you have all the necessary materials, including the boning, fabric, a sewing machine, matching thread, sewing pins, and a marking tool such as tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. You will also need sharp scissors or wire cutters designed for cutting boning to achieve precise cuts.
Mark the Fabric
Use your fabric pencil or tailor's chalk to mark the areas where the boning will be inserted. These marks will serve as a guide during the sewing process, ensuring that the boning aligns correctly.
Cut the Boning
Measure and cut the boning pieces according to your pattern or desired length. If you are using rigilene boning, cut the ends into a curve. You can use a flame to melt the ends together to prevent them from poking out of the casing.
Flatten the Boning (for Pre-cased Boning)
If you are using plastic pre-cased boning, it may arrive bent into a round shape. Before using it, you must flatten it. Place the boning on an ironing board, turn up the heat on your iron, and use steam to iron the boning flat. Ensure the boning remains inside the fabric casing while ironing to avoid melting the plastic.
By following these steps, you will have prepared plastic boning that is ready to be sewn into your garment, providing structure and support to your sewing project.
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Cutting plastic boning
Before cutting, you should mark the desired length of the boning with tailor's chalk or a pencil. This will guide you as you cut the boning to size. Once you have cut the boning, you will need to trim the plastic part of the boning to ensure it fits into your garment without causing any tears in the fabric. This will also prevent the boning from poking you while wearing the garment. To do this, gently push the fabric casing down to expose the plastic tip of the boning, then trim off about a centimetre. Use your scissors to cut the corners and shape the boning, giving it a more rounded form. Repeat this process for both ends of each piece of boning.
It is important to note that the ends of the boning may be sharp after cutting. To address this, you can use a metal file to sand them down. You can also dip the ends in a special enamel or use PTFE tape to prevent rust and provide a smoother finish. Alternatively, you can melt the ends together over a flame to prevent them from poking through the casing.
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Stitching techniques
Before you begin stitching, ensure that you have all the necessary materials, including the boning, fabric, a sewing machine, matching thread, and sewing pins. It is important to select the right type of boning for your project, such as steel or plastic boning, depending on your fabric and desired outcome.
When sewing plastic boning, it is crucial to use a heavy-duty needle designed for sewing through thick or rigid materials. You may also need to adjust the stitch length on your sewing machine to accommodate the thickness of the boning. A straight stitch or a zigzag stitch is recommended to securely hold the plastic boning in place. Additionally, reinforcing the stitching with multiple rows or using a double stitch can provide extra strength.
It is important to avoid sewing directly through the plastic boning, as this can weaken or damage it. Instead, sew alongside the boning, ensuring that the stitches are close enough to hold it securely. Mark the areas where the boning will be inserted using a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk. These marks will guide you during the sewing process and ensure proper alignment.
When working with pre-cased boning, which is commonly used in bras and bustier tops, you may need to remove the boning from its casing. After removing the boning, edgestitch the casing to the fabric layer underneath and then reinsert the boning. Alternatively, you can create channels or casings from the garment's fabric and insert the boning.
To finish the ends of the plastic boning, you can purchase rubber end tips or use scrap fabric. Another method is to melt the ends together over a flame to prevent them from poking out of the casing.
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Sewing machine settings
When sewing plastic boning, it is important to use the right sewing machine settings to ensure a strong and secure stitch. Here are some key considerations for your sewing machine setup:
Needle Type and Size: Use a heavy-duty needle designed for sewing through thick or rigid materials. The needle size should be suitable for the specific type of boning and fabric you are using. For example, a larger needle may be required for thicker plastic boning. After sewing through the boning, consider changing the needle as it may become jagged and can damage delicate fabrics.
Stitch Type and Length: Select a stitch type that will securely hold the boning in place, such as a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch. Adjust the stitch length to accommodate the thickness of the boning. A longer stitch length will help the needle penetrate thicker boning, while a shorter stitch length is suitable for thinner boning.
Reinforcement: For added strength, reinforce the stitching by sewing multiple rows or using a double stitch. This will create a more durable hold for the boning.
Speed and Pressure: Consider adjusting the sewing machine's speed settings to have better control, especially when sewing over the boning. Additionally, ensure that the presser foot pressure is set correctly. You may need to apply more or less pressure depending on the thickness and flexibility of the boning.
Feeding Mechanism: Depending on your sewing machine model, you may need to adjust the feeding mechanism. Some machines have settings that allow you to engage or disengage the feeding mechanism to better control the fabric and boning as you sew.
Needle Position: Pay attention to the needle position relative to the boning. Avoid sewing directly through the centre of the boning as this can weaken or damage it. Instead, sew alongside the boning, ensuring that the stitches are close enough to securely hold it in place.
By adjusting these sewing machine settings, you can effectively sew plastic boning into your desired garment or project, creating a secure and durable finish.
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Finishing touches
Once you have sewn in the boning, there are a few final steps to complete your project. Firstly, it is important to finish the ends of the boning to prevent them from poking out of the casing and poking the wearer. You can buy rubber end tips for this purpose, or you can melt the ends together over a flame, as recommended for rigilene or poly boning. Alternatively, you can file back the ends to smooth them off with a normal nail file or sandpaper.
If you are using a sewing machine, you may want to adjust the stitch length to accommodate the thickness of the boning. It is also important to use the right type of stitch; a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch will hold the boning in place. Reinforcing the stitching with multiple rows or using a double stitch can provide extra strength.
Finally, check that your garment has the desired level of structure and support. Plastic boning is commonly used to provide flexible support and prevent the rolling of garment materials. If you require more strength and rigidity, you may want to consider using metal boning instead.
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Frequently asked questions
Boning is a thin strip of plastic or metal that is sewn into a garment to provide support or structure.
Plastic boning is used to create light shaping and form for bodices, swimwear, dresses, stuffed toys, and other structured textiles.
You will need a heavy-duty needle, a sewing machine or sewing supplies for sewing by hand, matching thread, sewing pins, fabric, and an iron.
First, flatten the boning if it is bent into a round shape. Then, cut the boning to the correct length, leaving about 5mm at the top and bottom of the seam. Finish the ends of the boning with rubber end tips or by filing them back with a nail file or sandpaper.
Sew alongside the boning, ensuring that the stitches are close enough to securely hold it in place. Use straight or zigzag stitches, reinforcing with multiple rows or a double stitch for extra strength.









































