Maya Ellison
A toilet flange, also known as a closet flange, is a pipe fitting that connects a toilet to the drainage system, securing it to the bathroom floor. It is essential to ensure that the flange is tightly connected to prevent leaks. When a toilet is leaking from the base, it may be necessary to replace the flange. This process involves turning off the water supply, draining the toilet, and removing the mounting bolts and screws. The old wax ring and any remaining debris should be scraped away before installing a new wax ring that fits the new flange. The new flange is then placed in the drain pipe, and the mounting bolts are inserted. Finally, the toilet is set on top of the flange, and the washers and nuts are tightened onto the bolts. It is important to be careful not to overtighten the bolts, as this can cause damage.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Step 1 | Turn off the water supply to the toilet |
| Step 2 | Drain the toilet by flushing it a few times |
| Step 3 | Disconnect the water supply hose |
| Step 4 | Clean the wax ring from the bottom of the toilet and base of the flange |
| Step 5 | Remove the mounting bolts and screws |
| Step 6 | Lift the flange from the outflow pipe |
| Step 7 | Install a new wax ring that fits your new flange |
| Step 8 | Place the toilet bowl atop the new flange, aligning the bolt holes |
| Step 9 | Place the washers and nuts onto the bolts on either side of the base |
| Step 10 | Reconnect the water supply hose and turn on the water supply |
| Step 11 | Flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks |
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What You'll Learn
Turn off the water supply and drain the toilet
To turn off the water supply to your toilet, locate the shut-off valve. This is usually located on the back left side of the toilet, connected to a pipe that leads from the wall or floor into the valve. A grey braided cable protrudes from the top of the valve into the toilet tank. The valve has a knob that is either oval-shaped or looks like a short handle. Turn this knob clockwise until it stops—this will shut off the water supply to your toilet. Be careful not to overtighten the knob, as some valves only need a quarter-turn to shut off.
If your toilet does not have a shut-off valve, or you are unable to locate it, you can turn off the water supply to the entire house. For warmer climates, look for an iron box in the ground, usually located near the street or on the side or back of your house. The shut-off valve should be located nearby. For colder climates or homes with basements, the shut-off valve will be in the basement.
Once you have turned off the water supply, you can drain the toilet by flushing it a few times until the tank no longer fills with water. You can also use a plunger to help drain the remaining water from the basin and use sponges or towels to clean up any remaining water.
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Remove the mounting bolts and screws
Before removing the mounting bolts and screws, ensure that you have turned off the water supply to the toilet and drained the remaining water from the tank. You can do this by flushing the toilet a few times until the tank no longer fills with water and using a plunger or sponges and towels to remove any remaining water.
Now, to remove the mounting bolts and screws, start by cleaning the wax ring from the bottom of the toilet and the base of the flange. You can use a putty knife or a paint scraper to scrape away the wax. Be sure to also remove any loose screws or washers that may be present.
Next, you will need to remove the mounting bolts. If your toilet is attached to the floor with anchor bolts, as is common with some closet flanges, you will need to remove these bolts as well. Keep in mind that if you have a gasket-sealed PVC flange, which is the most common type, you can simply lift it from the outflow pipe after removing the bolts. However, if the flange is metal or glued to the drain pipe, do not attempt to remove it yourself as you may damage the pipe. Instead, call a licensed plumber to remove it for you.
If you are able to lift the flange out, set the bolts and screws aside, as you may be able to reuse them. If you need to cut away the old flange because it is not sitting flush with the top of the floor, be very careful not to damage the pipe. This is a delicate task that often requires the expertise of a plumber.
Once the flange and bolts have been removed, you will need to prepare for installing the new flange. Measure the diameter of the exposed drain pipe, and choose a new flange that fits this measurement. You will also need to install a new wax ring that fits your new flange and the thickness of your floor.
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![Danco 88904 Toilet Flange Repair Ring, Steel, [Finish]<, For Use With 1/4 in or 5/16 in Closet Bolts](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61pR-8dbmkS._AC_UL320_.jpg)
Scrape away the wax ring and clean the flange
To switch out a plastic toilet flange, you'll first need to scrape away the old wax ring and clean the flange. This is an essential step when removing a toilet, as the wax ring creates a water and air-tight seal.
To begin, put on some gloves to protect your hands and get a putty knife or paint scraper. Scrape the old wax seal off the toilet's base and the toilet flange. Be sure to get into all the nooks and crannies to ensure that the surface is as clean as possible. After removing the wax, immediately plug the drain with a ball of rags or an old towel to prevent noxious sewer gas from entering your home.
Next, you'll want to inspect the toilet flange for any cracks or decay. If there are signs of damage, you may need to replace the flange or repair it. If the flange is in good condition, you can proceed to the next step, which is to install a new wax ring.
It is important to note that anytime you replace a wax seal, you should also replace the bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. If you plan to reuse the existing bolts, ensure they are in good condition and centred with the toilet flange opening.
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Install a new wax ring and flange
To install a new wax ring and flange, start by turning off the water supply to the toilet. You can do this by turning the supply knob, usually found on the wall behind the toilet unit, closer to the floor. Drain the toilet by flushing it a few times until the tank no longer fills with water. You can use a plunger to help drain the remaining water from the basin. Disconnect the water supply hose from the toilet and lay a tarp, towels, or newspaper down to protect your floors.
Next, remove the nuts from the mounting bolts that hold the tank onto the bowl. There should be one on each side of the tank, and there may be one in the middle. Set them aside to reuse later. Carefully lift the tank off the bowl and place it out of the way. Remove the two anchor bolts attaching the toilet to the floor and move the toilet aside. Plug the drain pipe with an old t-shirt or a ball of rags to prevent noxious sewer gas from entering your home.
Now, scrape off the old wax from the drain pipe, toilet, and base of the flange using a putty knife or paint scraper. If you are installing new toilet bolts, put them in place now. If you are keeping the existing bolts, make sure they are in good condition before placing the wax into place. Ensure the bolts are centred with the toilet flange opening and parallel with the finished wall behind the toilet tank.
Once the old wax has been removed, you can put the new flange in the drain pipe and insert the mounting bolts. If your local plumbing codes require you to glue the flange to the drain pipe, carefully apply the glue to the bottom of the flange and the inside of the pipe. If your flange has a stainless steel ring around the outside, simply spin the ring so that the bolts are in the correct positions.
Now, install a new wax ring that fits your new flange. The thickness of your floor will dictate the required thickness of the wax ring. You can either rest the toilet bowl on its side and attach the replacement wax ring to the bottom of the bowl, or you can centre the wax ring over the flange before lowering the bowl into place. Some instructions recommend sticking the wax ring to the toilet horn first, but others find it easier to stick it to the flange first.
Place the toilet bowl atop the new flange, aligning the bolt holes in the base of the bowl with the flange bolts. Hold the bowl by the inside rim to get a better grip and lower the bowl down, applying pressure to set the seal. Hand-tighten the washers and bolts in the order and location they were removed, alternating from side to side until the toilet bowl is sitting firmly and evenly on the floor. Do not overtighten the bolts, or you could damage or crack the toilet bowl. If the bolts are too long, trim them with a hacksaw.
Finally, reconnect the water supply hose and turn on the water supply. Hand-tighten the nut at the end of the metal supply hose onto the connection point on the underside of the toilet tank. Turn the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on. Flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks. If the floor around the base of the toilet stays dry, you're done!
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Reconnect the water supply and check for leaks
Once you have finished replacing the toilet flange, you can reconnect the water supply and check for leaks. Begin by reconnecting the water supply hose. Then, turn on the water supply by turning the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise. The nut at the end of the metal supply hose should be tightened onto the connection point on the underside of the toilet tank. Plastic couplings usually only need to be hand-tightened, while metal ones can be tightened with a wrench or pliers. An adjustable wrench can also be used to finish tightening the coupling if needed.
Next, flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks. Carefully inspect the floor around the base of the toilet. If the floor remains dry, you have successfully replaced the toilet flange. However, if you notice any water seeping out, you will need to remove the toilet and try again, or call a plumber.
It is important to ensure that the flange is tightly connected to prevent leaks. The flange should be installed on top of the finished floor to prevent leak paths. If you are unable to install the flange on top of the finished floor, spacers can be used to mount on top of the existing flange. Alternatively, kits are available that allow you to install spacers under the toilet flange during installation to ensure the bottom of the flange is flush with the finished floor.
Additionally, if you are using a plastic flange, choose one with a stainless steel outer ring to prevent rust and provide extra strength. Make sure to follow your local plumbing codes to determine if you need to glue the flange to the drain pipe.
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Frequently asked questions
A toilet flange, also called a closet flange, is a pipe fitting that connects a toilet to the drainage system, securing it to the finished floor. It is usually made of PVC, rubber, copper, brass, stainless steel or metal and can be secured in place with bolts or screws.
If your toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace the flange. A leaking toilet could also be due to a broken flange, in which case, you can use a flange repair ring to reinstall the toilet. If the flange is cracked beyond repair, you will need to replace it.
Before replacing a plastic toilet flange, turn off the water supply to the toilet and drain the remaining water from the tank by flushing. Disconnect the water supply hose and keep a bucket or towels nearby to catch any water that may drain. Lay down a tarp, towels or newspaper to protect your floors.
