Differentiating Ivory Grips From Plastic: A Quick Guide

how to tell ivory grips from plastic

Ivory grips are expensive and highly sought after, but alternatives are available for those who want the look of ivory without the cost. Synthetic ivory, bone, and wood are all used to create imitation grips, but how can you tell if they are real ivory? One way is to heat a needle until it is cherry red and then touch it to the back of the grip. If it melts, it is plastic or polymer. If it smells like burning hair, it is ivory. Another way to differentiate is to look for Schreger lines, which are visible in the end grain of real ivory.

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Real ivory yellows with age

There are several other ways to differentiate real ivory from plastic. One of the most well-known methods is the hot pin test. This involves heating up the point of a needle until it's red-hot and then pricking the material in question. If the needle goes in, it's plastic; if not, it's probably ivory or bone. However, this test is not without its drawbacks. Firstly, it is destructive, and if the item being tested is valuable, this could reduce its worth. Secondly, it is not foolproof, as plastic can sometimes be hard enough to pass the test.

A less invasive test involves examining the material under a magnifying lens. Plastic is non-descript under magnification, whereas ivory will have a unique pattern of cross-hatching, known as Schreger lines, which can be seen when looking at the cross-section of an elephant tusk. These lines are rows of microscopic tubes and have never been duplicated in artificial plastics or resins. However, it should be noted that the absence of these lines does not necessarily mean a substance is not ivory, as they may not always be obvious, depending on how the ivory was cut.

Another test involves using your sense of touch. Plastic will usually feel warmer than ivory. You can also look and feel for the seam that is often detectable in a piece of molded plastic. Ivory also has circular rings, not unlike the rings of a tree, that can sometimes be seen with the naked eye.

Finally, plastic is usually lighter than ivory, so you can try to get a feel for how much the item should weigh.

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Schreger lines are unique to ivory

Schreger lines are a unique pattern of cross-hatching that appear in cross-sections of elephant tusk. These lines are rows of microscopic tubes, and where they intersect, they form what are known as Schreger angles.

Schreger lines can be divided into two categories: outer and inner. The outer Schreger lines are the easily seen lines closest to the cementum, while the inner Schreger lines are the faintly discernible lines found around the tusk nerve or pulp cavities. The intersections of these lines form angles that appear in two forms: concave and convex. Concave angles have slightly concave sides and open to the medial (inner) area of the tusk, while convex angles have somewhat convex sides and open to the lateral (outer) area of the tusk.

Schreger angles can be used to determine whether ivory is from present-day elephants or extinct elephants, such as mammoths. Elephant ivory has Schreger angles of more than 115°, while mammoth ivory has angles of less than 90°.

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Plastic is harder to stain

Some plastic grip materials can be coloured using an alcohol-based dye, but this will only be superficial and will wear off. The colour of plastic grips is usually moulded into the plastic and is quite durable.

In contrast, bone grips can be stained, and some people believe they look more authentic than fake ivory. Tea and coffee can also stain ivory, but the colour will not last.

One method to age fake ivory grips is to apply a stain or darkening agent to the entire item, then polish back the areas of friction to their original colour.

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A needle test can differentiate between ivory and plastic

Differentiating between ivory and plastic can be challenging, but a needle test is one way to help distinguish the two materials.

The hot needle test has been used for as long as plastic has been made to look like ivory. Collectors of ivory frequently use this method: heat a needle to a cherry-red temperature on a stove and touch the point to the back of the material in question. If the needle goes through, it is plastic. If the material smokes and smells like burning hair, it is ivory. This test is considered foolproof by some, but it is destructive and can reduce the value of a piece, especially if it is vintage plastic jewellery.

There are other ways to differentiate between ivory and plastic, which can be used in conjunction with the needle test to confirm the material. One way is to use a black light test. Plastics and resins fluoresce blue or blue-white under long-wave black light, whereas genuine ivory usually fluoresces white. However, this can vary depending on the patina of the ivory, and bone and glued-together ivory dust can also react like genuine ivory under black light.

Another method is to examine the grain of the material. Grain in natural ivory is random, whereas artificial ivory usually has a repeating pattern with uniform, even lines.

Other tests include examining the weight, patina, texture, and colour of the material, as well as looking for seams that are often present in moulded plastic. Using a magnifying glass or loop can help to identify these differences.

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Plastic is more durable

Plastic grips are harder than 'Poly-Ivory' and will resist scratches better. They are also easier to maintain and less prone to discolouration over time. While ivory develops a deep cream yellow colour with age and handling, plastic will retain its original colour.

The durability of plastic grips can be further enhanced by using a hard plastic material, such as acrylic plastic, which has a high shine and is more scratch-resistant. However, it is important to note that all plastic grip materials are still quite easy to chip.

In terms of customisation, plastic grips can be coloured using an alcohol-based dye, although the dye is superficial and may wear off over time. Staining plastic is more challenging and requires breaking down the substrate with acetone before soaking in coffee or tea. Even then, the stain may not be permanent.

Overall, plastic grips offer a more durable, affordable, and customisable option compared to ivory grips, making them a popular choice for gun enthusiasts.

Frequently asked questions

Ivory grips are made from elephant tusks and are known to be expensive. Plastic grips, on the other hand, are more affordable and can be made to look like ivory. However, they often lack the natural texture and colour variation of real ivory. One way to distinguish between the two is to observe the presence of Schreger lines, which are visible in the end grain of real ivory. Another test is to heat a needle until it's cherry red and touch it to the back of the grip. If it melts, it's plastic; if it smells like burning hair, it's ivory.

Ivory tends to yellow or darken with age and handling, especially when kept in the dark. This colour change gives ivory its characteristic deep cream yellow hue.

Staining plastic grips can be challenging due to the various plastic compositions. While some have suggested using tea, coffee, or dye, others recommend breaking down the plastic substrate with acetone before staining and then rebuilding it with an oil-based polyurethane.

There are several alternatives to ivory grips, including bone, wood, and horn. Bone grips, such as camel bone, giraffe bone, and Cape Buffalo bone, are known to be tough and can be stained to resemble aged ivory. Wood grips made from American Holly are also an option and are praised for their looks. Horn grips made from elk horn or Cape Buffalo horn are another affordable and aesthetically pleasing choice.

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