Sofia Martinez
Plastic tub surrounds are a great way to update your bathroom without a full renovation. They are cost-effective, easy to install, and come in a variety of colours and patterns. You can choose from a range of materials such as ABS, PVC, thermal-plastic, or pressed-fiberglass. The installation process involves removing the old tub and shower, installing the new unit, and replumbing. You can also add decorative moulding to seal the edges of the panels and enhance the overall aesthetic. Painting your plastic tub surround is another option for updating its look.
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What You'll Learn
Painting a plastic tub surround
Prepare the Surface:
Start by giving the tub surround a thorough cleaning using your usual bathroom cleaner and an abrasive sponge. This will help ensure that the surface is free of any dirt, grime, or residue. Once the surface is clean and dry, use fine sandpaper to lightly sand the tub surround. Sanding will create a rough surface for the paint to adhere to, resulting in a more durable finish. After sanding, wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove any dust or grit.
Protect and Prime:
Cover any areas that you do not want to paint, such as taps and plug holes, with masking tape. You can also lay down newspaper or a drop cloth to protect the floor and surrounding areas from paint drips. Before painting, it is essential to apply a bonding agent or primer to the sanded surface. This will help the paint adhere better and create a smoother finish. Allow the bonding agent to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Paint Application:
When choosing paint for your plastic tub surround, opt for acrylic enamel paint, which is specifically designed for use on these surfaces. You can apply the paint with a small roller, brush, or spray bottle, depending on your preference and the product's instructions. Work in even layers, ensuring that you follow the paint manufacturer's instructions for drying time between coats. Typically, two coats of paint are sufficient, but you can add additional layers if necessary.
Finishing Touches:
Once you have achieved the desired coverage and allowed the final coat of paint to dry completely, you can finish the project with an acrylic top coat. This optional step will help seal in the paint, add extra shine, and enhance the overall durability of your new finish.
Alternative Paint Options:
While acrylic enamel is recommended for painting plastic tub surrounds, you can also consider using top-quality automotive paints or outdoor paint, as suggested by some DIY enthusiasts. Always make sure to follow the paint manufacturer's instructions and take the necessary safety precautions when working with any type of paint.
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Using solid-surface panels
Solid-surface materials have transformed kitchen and bathroom design by increasing durability, stain resistance, and ease of maintenance. Solid-surface panels are a great option for updating a plastic tub surround. They are available in various colours and patterns, allowing you to choose a style that complements your bathroom decor. Solid-surface panels are not only aesthetically pleasing but also practical. Their non-porous nature makes them resistant to mould and mildew, and they are easy to clean with regular household cleaners. Additionally, minor scratches or nicks can be easily buffed out, maintaining the surround’s appearance over time.
There are two options for installing solid-surface panels: hiring a professional or doing it yourself. A professional installation by a certified fabricator can cost between $500 and $1,500. Alternatively, you can purchase a DIY kit, which includes all the necessary materials, such as trim pieces and adhesives. These kits are a more affordable option, but you will need to install the panels yourself.
To install solid-surface panels, start by creating a cardboard template for the plumbing-end wall. This will ensure a perfect fit for your new panels. Measure and mark the locations for the showerhead, tub spout, and faucet handles on the template, then cut out the holes and test-fit the template. Next, apply silicone adhesive to the wall in a grid pattern, using a plastic trowel to spread the silicone evenly. Pay special attention to the top and bottom of the wall, applying a double bead for extra holding power.
Once the adhesive is applied, it's time to install the panels. After installing all the panels and trim pieces, let the adhesive dry for at least 24 hours before removing any tape or using the tub. This drying time ensures a secure bond and prevents any shifting or separation of the panels. Finally, reinstall your showerhead, tub spout, and faucet handles, using appropriate sealants to prevent water infiltration.
Solid-surface panels offer a cost-effective way to update your plastic tub surround, providing a durable and low-maintenance solution that can enhance the overall aesthetic of your bathroom.
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Installation of a new tub and plumbing
First, remove as much from the bathroom as possible to give yourself room to work. Take down any shower curtains or sliding shower doors. If your walls are tiled, remove and replace them. If your walls are covered by a plastic tub surround, remove it completely. Then, mark a horizontal level line on all of the drywall areas above the tub and cut along these lines with a drywall saw to remove the drywall. Be careful not to damage any pipes or wires and wear safety gear, including goggles and a dust mask.
Next, you will need to access the plumbing. In some homes, you may be able to access the plumbing from the room next to the bathroom. In other cases, you may need to cut a hole in the wall or floor to access the plumbing. Once you have accessed the plumbing, remove the old drain and overflow pipes. You may need to cut some of the existing plumbing and redo it to line up with the new tub. Remember to include a p-trap on this line to avoid sewer gas escaping into the house.
Now, you can install a ledger board to support the weight of the new tub and ensure it can be securely attached to the wall. Cut a 2x4 board to the length of the wall that the long edge of the tub will be placed against. Screw the ledger board to the studs in the wall so that the top of the ledger board is just below the flange when the tub is sitting level. You can use the manufacturer's instructions to determine the height of the ledger board.
Attach the drain to the tub before placing it into position. Wrap the bottom of the strainer with plumber's putty and press it into the tub from the inside. Then, carefully lower the new tub into the space. Check that the tub is level and adjust the ledger board as needed. Attach the tub to the wall studs with screws in the pre-drilled holes in the upper flange of the tub.
Finally, connect the drain and overflow plumbing coming out of the tub to the rough-in drain outlet in your bathroom. Tighten the pipes down snugly, but do not over-tighten. Make sure the top of the flange lines up with your reference marks and attach the tub flange to the studs with roofing nails. Run the faucet and shower to ensure the water flows correctly through the drain and plumbing.
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Removing the old tub and surround
Planning and Preparation:
Before you begin, it is crucial to have a clear understanding of the project's scope and the materials involved. Measure the current bathtub alcove, including the shower walls, to determine the size of the new tub you will need. Most standard bathtubs are 5 feet long and either 30 or 32 inches wide. Additionally, identify the location of the tub's drainpipe, as this will determine the type of tub you need (left or right drain). Ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials, such as safety gear, channel lock pliers, penetrating lubricant, and replacement parts.
Disconnecting the Drainpipe:
Start by shutting off the water supply to your bathroom or, if necessary, the entire house, to prevent leaks during the installation of the new tub. Use channel lock pliers to disconnect the drainpipe below the tee, where the drain and overflow valve meet. If your bathtub drain fittings are made of galvanized steel, apply a penetrating lubricant to loosen the joints first. Once the nut is loosened, completely unscrew it by hand and lift out the entire drain assembly.
Removing the Tub Surround:
The tub surround, which could be drywall, tile, or a similar material, needs to be removed to access the tub. Cut out a section of the wall, approximately 6 inches above the tub, on all three sides and along the front of the tub. If you have a fiberglass tub surround, start by removing it. Wear safety gear, including gloves and safety glasses, during this process.
Detaching the Tub:
The tub is attached to the studs through a flange that tucks under the surrounding wall. Remove the material surrounding the tub back to the studs, typically by about 6 inches. You may need to cut and remove layers of sheetrock or drywall, being careful not to damage the underlying structure. The tub may be secured with fasteners or adhesives, so work carefully to detach it without causing unnecessary damage to the surrounding area.
Finalizing the Removal:
Once the tub and surround are removed, inspect the area for any necessary repairs or modifications. Ensure that all debris and old materials are cleared away, and the space is prepared for the installation of the new tub and surround. It is important to address any plumbing or structural issues before proceeding with the next steps of your bathroom renovation.
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Sealing the edges of the panels
Prepare the Surface:
Before sealing the edges, ensure that the surface is clean and dry. Remove any debris, dust, or residue from the edges of the panels and the surrounding area. This step is crucial for achieving a strong bond and a smooth finish.
Apply Adhesive:
Use a high-quality adhesive suitable for use in bathrooms, such as silicone adhesive. Apply a continuous bead of adhesive along the entire length of the panel edge, ensuring that it makes contact with both the panel and the surrounding wall or surface. Space the beads about 6 inches apart, and apply a double bead at the top and bottom of the panel for extra holding power.
Use a Trowel for Even Application:
To ensure that the adhesive is evenly distributed and that the panel adheres uniformly, use a plastic trowel with 1/8-inch-wide notches. Spread the silicone with the trowel in a grid pattern, moving horizontally and vertically across the surface. This helps to create a strong and consistent bond along the edges of the panels.
Smooth the Adhesive:
After applying the adhesive, use your finger or a small spatula to smooth out the adhesive. Work quickly, as the adhesive begins to set within 45 seconds. Smoothly and firmly press the adhesive into the gaps, ensuring that it fills any spaces between the panel and the wall.
Install Decorative Molding:
For an added layer of protection and a polished appearance, install decorative molding along the sealed edges. Apply silicone adhesive to the back of the molding and firmly press it against the wall, holding it in place with masking tape while the adhesive sets. Install both horizontal and vertical corner trim pieces for a seamless and refined finish.
Allow for Drying Time:
Once you have completed sealing the edges and installing the molding, allow sufficient time for the adhesive to dry and cure. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time, as it may vary depending on the type of adhesive used.
By following these steps, you will effectively seal the edges of the panels when updating your plastic tub surround, resulting in a durable, watertight, and aesthetically pleasing finish.
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Frequently asked questions
You can either replace the plastic tub surround with a new one or give it a makeover. Replacement options include glue-up surrounds, solid-surface panels, and acrylic tub surrounds. If you want to give your plastic tub surround a makeover, you can paint it.
First, remove the old plastic tub surround and any tiles. Then, cut and install drywall, and staple new insulation over it. Next, cut holes for the pipes and install the faucet plate and tub spout. Finally, caulk the edges and install decorative molding to seal the edges of the panels.
Yes, but only when the old tile area is smaller than the kit. You will also need to build up the surrounding wall to the level of the tile, usually with 1/4-inch drywall.
Yes, you can paint a plastic tub surround. Sand the surface to scuff it up, then apply paint with a roller. You can also paint over the grout lines to avoid having to clean them.
