Omar Khalid
Weathering a plastic model can add a sense of realism to your creation. It can be as simple as using two paints to create a base coat and a metallic worn effect. You can also use pencils, chalks, powders, and washes to weather your model. If you're using chalks and powders, you may want to use a flat lacquer fixative to help them adhere to the plastic. If you're new to weathering, it's a good idea to practice on an old or inexpensive model first.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Basic supplies | Spray paint, hobby paint, paintbrushes, pastel pencils, weathering powders, washes, matte fixative spray |
| Preparation | Use clear coat spray paint before and after applying other paints |
| Techniques | Drybrushing, using a wash, airbrushing, applying a gloss coat, using a matte varnish |
| Realism | Refer to images of similar vehicles to accurately determine areas that should have a worn or rusted look |
| Safety | Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a properly rated respirator |
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![TAMIYA Weathering Master 6-Sets(A,B,C,D,E,F) [Japan Import] Model:](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/712LYKQcZyL._AC_UL320_.jpg)
What You'll Learn
Using pencils, chalks, powders and washes
Weathering is a basic modelling skill that can be used to bring a sense of authenticity to any finished model. It can be used to add details such as dirt, rust, chipped paint, water streaks, and bare metal.
Pencils, chalks, powders, and washes are some of the most common tools used for weathering. When using pencils, it is recommended to use pastel pencils or AK weathering pencils, which are filled with dense grease paint. These pencils can be used for a variety of techniques, including dry-brushing, heavy chipping, and washes. They can be applied directly to the model, allowing for more control and precision when adding small scratches or worn-down effects.
When using chalks and powders, it is important to apply them sparingly and carefully, especially on porous surfaces such as wood and cardstock, as they can be difficult to remove or blend once they sink into the pores of the surface. To achieve a rusted appearance, you can use a Dremel to wear away the plastic of the model, creating a bubbling effect that resembles rusting metal. You can then use a toothpick to pop holes and apply a rust-colored paint before covering it with masker fluid.
Washes are also commonly used for weathering and can be created using various paints and washes. For example, to paint gold, you can use a base of GW Shining Gold or Gehenna's Gold, along with a dark brown wash and two other washes, such as Seraphim Sepia and Agrax Earthshade.
To ensure the best results, it is recommended to practice on old or inexpensive models first and to work in a well-ventilated area when using paints, aerosols, lacquers, and varnishes. Additionally, using a clear coat before and after applying paint or weathering can help protect the model and ensure a flawless finish.
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Applying a base primer
To start, it is crucial to prepare the surface of your plastic model thoroughly. Use a mild detergent or a specialised plastic cleaner to remove any dirt, grease, mould release agents, dust, or oils that might hinder the primer's adhesion. Gently scrub the surface with a soft cloth or brush, being careful not to scratch or damage the plastic. This step is essential, as neglecting proper surface preparation can lead to poor adhesion and a subpar finish.
Once the surface is clean and dry, it's time to choose the right primer for your plastic model. Consider the specific characteristics of the plastic material and your desired finish. For light-coloured plastic models, a white or light grey primer is recommended, while dark-coloured plastic models benefit from a black or dark grey primer. If you're unsure, a neutral grey primer is a versatile option that works well with most plastic models. Acrylic primers are easy to use and compatible with most plastics, while enamel primers provide a durable finish but take longer to dry. If you're looking for a quick-drying option, lacquer primers offer excellent adhesion but require proper ventilation due to their strong fumes.
When applying the primer, there are a few techniques you can use. One method is to apply thin layers gradually, building up coverage. This technique helps achieve a smooth and consistent finish. Another technique is to apply a mist coat, a light and even layer of primer that provides a smooth base for subsequent layers. If you're using an airbrush, ensure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions for thinning the primer and adjusting air pressure for the best results.
After applying the primer, allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions. Depending on the type of primer and the environmental conditions, drying times can vary. Once the primer is dry, you can proceed with painting and weathering your model, following the specific techniques and effects you desire. Remember, always work in a well-ventilated area when using paints and primers, and consider wearing a respirator for additional protection.
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Creating rust
To create a rusted look on a plastic model, you can use a few simple techniques and paint colours. Firstly, paint your model with a base colour. Black is a good option for pronounced rust, but you can also use grey primer or a lighter, more faded blue. Make sure to use spray paint that is not water-soluble so that your rust effects don't remove the base coat. A glossy or semi-gloss base coat will cause the wash to wander into the deepest cracks and recesses, avoiding the high points. A flat sheen base coat will result in a more even layer of rust.
Next, prepare a wash of Burnt Sienna and cover the object. Use a paper towel to sop away any puddle spots. If you want a more severe rust effect in some spots, you can apply the Burnt Sienna full strength in key areas. You can also add in some Burnt Umber for a darker, brownish type of rust. For a more subtle sheen, you can dry-brush a thin layer of silver acrylic across the surface to create a metallic effect.
You can also use water-based acrylics to create a rust effect. To help the acrylics stick to the plastic, use an acrylic lacquer-based primer. You can also use PanPastel, which offers a variety of earth tones to simulate rust, including Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, and Red Iron Oxide. For a more textured effect, you can dilute alcohol and pastel on the surface, causing it to settle into the depressions.
Remember, you can always experiment and build up the effect slowly to your liking.
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Using spray paint
Spray paint is an excellent method for painting plastic models, offering a clean and precise finish. Here is a detailed guide on how to use spray paint to achieve a weathered effect on your plastic model:
Preparation:
Before you begin, ensure you have a well-lit workspace and a stable surface to work on. Cover this surface with old newspapers or similar materials to protect it from the paint. Additionally, gather all the necessary accessories, including masking tape, primer, and your chosen spray paint.
Masking:
Use masking tape to cover any areas of the model that you do not want to paint. This step is crucial to achieving a precise finish. Take your time and carefully apply the tape to the desired areas.
Primer:
Primer is essential for ensuring the paint adheres well to the plastic surface. Choose a primer colour that suits your needs: white primer for light colours and grey primer for dark colours. Spray primer dries quickly and evenly, creating a smooth base for your paint.
Spray Painting:
Now, you're ready to apply the spray paint. Always test the paint application first on an inconspicuous area or a plastic cup. Ensure the spray can is at room temperature and maintain a minimum distance of 30 cm from the model when spraying. Begin with light colours, working in one direction to apply the first layer. Repeat the process three more times, working evenly and at a steady pace to prevent the formation of colour noses. Allow 30 to 60 minutes of drying time between each coat.
Weathering Effects:
Once the paint is dry, you can start adding weathering effects. To create a rusty appearance, use a Dremel to wear away the plastic where you want the rust to appear. The thinning plastic will bubble, simulating rusting metal. Pop holes with a toothpick, then cover them with masker fluid. Before applying the masker fluid, don't forget to spray paint the rusted areas with a rust-coloured paint.
You can also create a dirty, worn look by sprinkling salt on wet paint chips. Use a soft-bristled brush to gently move the salt into the desired areas, then apply a top coat. Once dry, brush off the salt to reveal a chipped paint effect.
Final Steps:
After achieving your desired weathering effects, you may want to add a gloss coat, which can enhance the overall appearance and protect your work. Finally, display your model proudly, knowing you've mastered the art of spray painting and weathering!
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Dry brushing
To begin dry brushing a model, you will need the following materials: acrylic paints in assorted colours (white, Venetian red, raw umber, burnt sienna, buff titanium, and neutral grey make a great starting point). Artists' acrylics from shops like The Range or similar are ideal for dry brushing.
Apply a thin coat of light-coloured acrylic paint to the model. You can use a rattle can or airbrush for this base coat if you prefer. Remember, the dry-brushing technique might seem wasteful as you will wipe off most of the paint, but it is fun and easy to do once you get the hang of it.
Apply further coats of different colours as required. For example, you could add a bit of Burnt Umber for a subtle effect. Remember to brush in the direction of the wood grain, rain/water flow, etc., for the best effect. For larger architectural components like garage doors, you can get more creative as you have more room to work with. You can also choose to weather the individual components before assembly or paint them once assembled.
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Frequently asked questions
Basic tools and materials include pencils, chalks, weathering powders, and various washes. An airbrush can also be useful.
Spray the plastic with Testors Dullcote or a similar flat lacquer fixative product. This will help the powders adhere to the plastic.
Make a wash using watered-down acrylic black paint. Brush over newspaper and if you can still read the print, it’s watered down enough.
Thin the plastic with a Dremel where you want the rust to be. As the plastic thins, it will bubble, giving it the effect of rusting metal. Pop holes with a toothpick, then cover with masker fluid. Paint the area with a rust-coloured paint before applying the fluid.
You can use acrylic paint, or hobby metallic paint. Citadel’s “Chainmail” is recommended.
