Alexei Volkov
Weathering plastic ship decks can be a challenging but rewarding endeavour. The process involves a range of techniques, from painting and mottling to sealing and varnishing, all aimed at creating a realistic and aesthetically pleasing weathered appearance. Whether working on a model ship or a full-scale vessel, understanding the function of deck equipment and the desired level of weathering is essential. Techniques such as airbrushing and stippling can be employed, and the choice between wood and plastic decks can significantly impact the final result. With careful planning, attention to detail, and creativity, weathering a plastic ship deck can bring a unique touch to any ship project.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Painting a ship model | Priming, pre-shading, primary colors & masking, post-shading, gloss, decals, washes, filters, pigments, final sheen coat |
| Techniques for a weathered look | Pre-shading, black-basing followed by a lighter mottled coat, opacity of primary paint |
| Reference photos | Essential to gauge how much weathering is enough |
| Paint application phases | Paint vertical surfaces, then stipple the deck by hand with thinned paint and retarder |
| Wooden decks | Seal with gloss varnish, especially if applying decals; precoat with oil-based clear lacquer if using water-based acrylic paint |
| Realistic weathering | RN ordered unpainted wood decks during WW2 to be left to fade to a natural light greyish shade |
| Plastic decks | Painting a plastic deck to look like wood is an art; a poorly painted deck detracts from the model |
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What You'll Learn
Painting techniques
Painting a ship model involves priming, pre-shading, primary colours and masking, post-shading, glossing, and applying appropriate washes, filters, pigments, and final sheen coats. Here are some painting techniques to weather plastic ship decks:
Brush Painting
Brush painting is a common technique for painting ship decks, especially for 1/700 ship decks. The details can be painted separately and glued on afterward. This method ensures that the weathering and washing will cover the inner and outer edges.
Airbrushing
Airbrushing is another option for painting ship decks. It can be used to paint the entire deck, and then the details can be repainted with the appropriate colour. This technique is suitable for larger surfaces, such as aircraft carrier decks.
Priming
Priming is an important step in preparing the surface for painting. For wooden decks, a thin coat of Pledge Floor Gloss (PFG) can be used as a primer. After curing for 24 hours, the desired deck paint can be applied, allowing the laser-etched deck planks to show through and suggest wear and tear.
Mottling
Mottling techniques, such as pre-shading or black-basing followed by a lighter mottled coat, can effectively give the hull a weathered look. The opacity of the primary paint can be adjusted to achieve the desired level of weathering.
Stippling
For small decks with vertical surfaces, such as those on the superstructure, stippling can be used to create a textured effect. The vertical surfaces can be airbrushed, and then the deck can be gently stippled by hand with thinned deck paint and a retarder added for leveling.
Non-Slip Finish
If you want to make the deck non-slip, you can add non-skid additives such as Interlux's InterGrip to the paint. This will provide a safer walking surface for the ship's crew.
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Priming and pre-shading
Priming:
Priming serves as the foundation for your paint job and ensures that the subsequent paint layers adhere properly to the plastic surface. It is recommended to use a primer specifically designed for plastic, such as the Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, which is widely regarded as one of the best primers available. This primer can be sprayed or brushed onto the plastic deck, creating a smooth base for the upcoming paint layers.
Pre-shading:
Pre-shading is a critical step in achieving a weathered look. It involves applying a base shade to the model before the primary colours are added. This step adds depth and realism to the final paint job. A light coat of grey or white primer can be applied at a 45-60 degree angle to simulate illumination from above. This step is optional but can enhance the overall appearance.
Additionally, mottling techniques can be employed for pre-shading. This can be done by using a black base and then applying a lighter mottled coat, creating a weathered effect. The opacity of the primary paint can be adjusted to dial in the desired level of weathering. Pre-shading products like Army Painter Quickshade or Minwax Polyshade can be used, depending on the desired effect.
Painting:
After priming and pre-shading, you can move on to painting the ship deck. It is essential to study references and photos of your prototype to gauge the appropriate level of weathering. Painting vertical surfaces with an airbrush and then gently stippling the deck by hand with thinned paint can create a realistic wood-grain effect. This technique saves time and adds texture to the deck.
Final Steps:
Once the painting is complete, it is advisable to seal the paint job with a topcoat or varnish to protect the finish. This step ensures that the weathering effects are preserved and adds durability to the model.
Remember, the key to successful priming and pre-shading is to take your time, experiment with different techniques, and always refer to photos of real ship decks to achieve the desired level of realism and weathering.
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![TAMIYA Weathering Master 6-Sets(A,B,C,D,E,F) [Japan Import] Model:](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/712LYKQcZyL._AC_UL320_.jpg)
Final sheen coats
The final sheen coat is an important step in achieving a realistic and weathered appearance for your ship model. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for applying the final sheen coats:
Firstly, it is essential to study references and prototypes of the ship you are modelling to gauge the desired level of weathering. This will guide the extent of the final sheen coats and ensure an accurate representation.
When it comes to the application process, it is recommended to work on the vertical surfaces first. You can use an airbrush to apply paint to these areas. For the decks, a stippling technique can be employed by hand, using thinned paint with a retarder to allow for proper leveling. This two-step approach ensures a natural and textured finish.
The choice between painting or sealing wooden decks is a personal preference. Some modellers prefer to seal wood decks with a varnish or lacquer to enhance the natural grain and texture of the wood. Others opt for painting the decks to achieve a specific colour or finish. It is generally advised to avoid water-based acrylic paints directly on wood, as they can cause swelling. Instead, consider an oil-based clear lacquer as a base coat before applying acrylics.
If you choose to paint the wooden decks, a light greyish shade is often used to replicate the natural weathering of wood. You can also experiment with different techniques, such as buff paint washed with an ink wash or applying wood varnishes and oils.
Lastly, when applying the final sheen coats, it is important to work in thin layers, building up the desired level of sheen gradually. This will allow you to control the final appearance and avoid overdoing the weathering effect. Remember to allow adequate drying time between coats.
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Using wood decks
When it comes to creating a wooden deck for a model ship, there are several methods and techniques to consider. Firstly, it is important to study references and photos of the prototype ship to understand the desired level of weathering and the specific details of the deck equipment. This research will guide your approach to simulating the deck's appearance and functionality accurately.
For wooden decks, one popular method is to use a false deck as a base. The false deck can be made from 2mm laser-cut plywood, and there are two common types: one where the bulkhead frames do not come above the deck, and another where they do, requiring notches in the false deck. On top of this false deck, you will lay the deck planks, which can be made from timber supplied in the kit or a decorative timber veneer like boxwood, silver ash, or tanganika. To achieve the caulking effect between the deck planks, gather them into bundles of 6 to 8, secure them with bulldog clips, and rub a soft lead pencil along their edges. Then, lay these bundles over the false deck to create a realistic caulking line.
Another technique for creating wooden decks involves airbrushing the vertical surfaces and then stippling the deck by hand with thinned paint and a retarder to allow for leveling. This method can be useful for smaller, miscellaneous decks. Additionally, you can enhance the overall appearance of your wooden deck by staggering the deck planks instead of laying them as full-length strips.
When it comes to finishing your wooden deck, opinions vary. Some modellers suggest sealing the deck with varnish, while others recommend using washes, which are essentially thinned-down stains. It is generally recommended to avoid using water-based acrylic paints directly on wood, as water can cause the wood to swell. Instead, consider pre-coating the wood with an oil-based clear lacquer before applying acrylics. If you plan to apply decals, a gloss varnish mist coat can be useful, followed by a matt coat.
Overall, using wooden decks can provide a more realistic and detailed appearance to your model ship, especially if you aim for historical accuracy. However, it is important to consider the scale of your model, as smaller scales may not be as wood-friendly, and the grain of the wood may appear overscale.
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Modelling sub-assemblies
Firstly, study references of your prototype to plan and refine your build. This will help you understand how the sub-assemblies will fit together and be installed. For example, if you are adding a flagstaff, you will need to drill a hole in the deck or hull and secure it with glue.
Next, decide on the details you will add and when you will add them. For example, if you are adding rigging, you will need to consider where you will install the holes and posts. If your model has an upper and lower half, test the fit to judge the quality of the join. Access to the undersides of decks during later build steps can be extremely convenient, but it may result in a visible waterline seam.
Then, consider the phases of paint application. Painting a ship model is similar to other models, involving priming, pre-shading, primary colours, masking, and post-shading. Mottling techniques can be effective in giving your hull a weathered look, and you can adjust the opacity of your primary paint to dial in the desired effect.
Finally, decide on the degree of weathering you want to apply. This will depend on the amount of weathering on your prototype, and it is best to defer the final stages of weathering until after extensive handling of the model is complete. Techniques such as airbrushing and stippling can be used to paint both vertical and horizontal surfaces, and small parts can be separated and mounted for easier painting.
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Frequently asked questions
It is important to study references of your prototype to plan and refine your build. It is also beneficial to understand the function of the various deck equipment and how they are installed, oriented, and weathered. Painting a ship model involves priming, pre-shading, primary colors, masking, and post-shading. Mottling techniques can be used to give the hull a weathered look.
It is important to study photos of your prototype to gauge how much weathering is enough. It is generally recommended to defer the final stages of weathering until after the need for extensive handling of the model is done.
For small decks, you can try airbrushing vertical surfaces and then gently stippling the deck by hand with thinned paint and retarder added to allow for leveling. If you are using wooden decks, seal them with gloss varnish, especially if you are applying decals. If you are painting a plastic deck to look like wood, paint any molded-on detail first and then carefully apply the wooden deck.
One common pitfall is not considering the function of deck equipment and how it affects weathering. Another is not planning the build sequence properly, which can make the painting process more difficult. Additionally, be cautious when using acrylic paints on wooden decks, as water-based acrylic paint can cause wood to swell.
