Ethan Clarke
Wiring lights with a plastic box can be a simple task, but it's important to take the necessary precautions to ensure safety. Before beginning, ensure you have the necessary tools and materials, including a ladder, a non-contact voltage tester, and the light fixture with its mounting hardware. Turn off the electricity at the junction box or fuse box to cut the power supply to the circuit you'll be working on. Check for live wires with the voltage tester, and if your home was built before 1985, be cautious of newer light fixtures that may not be compatible with old wiring. Once you've confirmed safety, proceed to remove the existing light fixture by unscrewing and unbolting it, noting how the wires are connected. Then, install the new light fixture by connecting the wires, securing them with wire connectors, and fastening the fixture to the mounting bracket. Finally, restore power and test your new light.
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What You'll Learn
Removing the plastic box
Removing an electrical box can be a challenging task, and the process may vary depending on the specific setup of your lighting fixture and the placement of the plastic box. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to remove a plastic box for wiring lights:
Disconnect the Power Supply:
Before starting any electrical work, it is crucial to ensure your safety. Turn off the electricity supplied to the circuit by switching off the breaker in your fuse box. Double-check that the power is indeed off by attempting to turn on the light.
Remove the Light Fixture:
If you haven't already, remove the light fixture itself. This will give you better access to the plastic box and the wiring.
Disconnect the Wiring:
Disconnect the wires attached to the plastic box. Be careful not to damage the wires, as you will need to reconnect them to your new light fixture. You may need to twist wiring caps or disconnect wire connectors to safely separate the wires.
Deal with the Nails or Screws:
The plastic box is likely secured in place with nails or screws. If nails are used, you can use a pry bar or pliers to pull them out. If the box is attached with screws, use a screwdriver to loosen and remove them. In some cases, you may need to cut through the nails with an oscillating tool or a metal Sawzall blade if the box is nailed directly to a stud.
Remove the Plastic Box:
Once the nails or screws are removed, you can pull out the plastic box. Depending on your access to the box, you may need to go into the attic or basement to pull it through the wall from above or below. If you cannot remove the box entirely, push it out of the way or let it fall into the wall cavity and leave it there.
Patch the Hole:
After removing the plastic box, you will likely need to patch the hole left in the wall. Cut a piece of drywall slightly larger than the hole and screw it in place. Apply paper tape and a coat of joint compound to create a smooth finish.
Remember, electrical work can be dangerous if not done properly. If you are uncomfortable with any part of the process, it is always best to consult a professional electrician for assistance.
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Disconnecting the wires
Turn Off the Power Supply:
Before starting any work involving electrical wiring, it is imperative to turn off the electricity supplied to the circuit. Locate your fuse box or junction box and switch off the breaker to cut the power to the specific circuit you will be working on. Double-check by attempting to turn on the light; if the circuit has been successfully disabled, the light should remain off.
To begin disconnecting the wires, you will need to lower the fixture by unscrewing it from its mount. Allow it to descend a few inches so you can access the wiring. Typically, you will encounter three types of wires attached to the fixture: a hot wire, a grounding wire, and a neutral wire.
To uncouple these wires, twist the wiring cap (also known as a wire nut) in a counterclockwise direction until it comes free. This action will release the wires from each other. You may need to use your free hand to hold the fixture while twisting the wiring cap. Be cautious, as some junction boxes contain wiring from multiple circuits, and live wires may still be present even after turning off the power to the fixture.
Handling Different Types of Wires:
The process of disconnecting wires may vary slightly depending on the type of wires involved. Traditional fixtures often have three sets of electrical wires: black or red current wires, white neutral wires, and silver or copper ground wires. Newer fixtures, on the other hand, may have a simpler colour code with just black and white wires.
When disconnecting the wires, take note of their colours and how they are connected. This information will be crucial when you reconnect the wires for the new fixture. For older fixtures without colour coding, choose one fixture wire and connect it to the black supply wire, then connect the other fixture wire to the white ceiling wire.
Safety Precautions:
Always use a non-contact voltage tester or a circuit tester to check for live wires before proceeding. Touch each wire to the tester, and if the tester lights up or indicates voltage, the wire is live. Additionally, consider investing in a pack of assorted small connectors with metal threads to ensure a secure connection. These connectors can provide a better grip than the plastic twist-on connectors that come with most fixtures.
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Preparing the new fixture
Preparing a new fixture is a potentially dangerous task, so it is important to take precautions. First, turn off the electricity supplied to the circuit you will be working on at the junction box (also called a fuse box). Switch the breaker of your fuse box so the fuse for the circuit supplying electricity to your fixture reads "Off". It is always a good idea to double-check the flow of electricity by checking the light itself before moving forward—flick the light on, and if the circuit has been disabled, the light should stay off.
If your home was built before 1985, be aware that many new light fixtures cannot be connected to pre-1985 wiring because the insulation on the wiring cannot withstand the heat generated by the fixture. These fixtures carry a warning on the label: "Use wire rated for at least 90 degrees C". If you know your wiring was installed before 1985, you will need to choose a fixture that doesn't carry this warning. Hanging fixtures, for example, usually don't require newer wiring because they don't heat the wiring as much as fixtures that mount directly against the ceiling.
Next, spread the components of your new light fixture on a clean, flat surface. Assemble the parts that should be connected to the fixture. If your light fixture includes a chain, adjust the chain to your desired length. Use chain pliers or pliers with a screwdriver to open the link on the end of the chain. Attach the chain to the screw collar, then hold the light fixture up against it. Adjust the length of the chain to the link that best matches your desired length.
Before installing the new fixture, check for compatibility. In most cases, the mounting hardware for your new fixture will fit the bracket that's already installed. You'll need to hold the new light fixture up to the existing mounting bracket and compare fasteners and size to make sure you don't need to install a new mounting bracket. If you do need to swap in a new bracket, these are often included with the light. If not, you can look up the light information online by doing a general search of the name of the light fixture, which you can find on the box. Once you know the kind of bracket you need, you can find and purchase it at your local hardware store.
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Connecting the wires
First, ensure you have turned off the electricity supplied to the circuit you are working on at the junction box or fuse box. It is crucial to confirm that the power is indeed off by checking the light itself; it should remain off when the circuit is disabled. Additionally, use a non-contact voltage tester or a circuit tester to ensure there are no live wires in the junction box. Touch each wire's insulation with the tester; if the light glows, the wire is live. Safety should always be a priority when dealing with electrical installations.
Once you have confirmed that the power is off, it is time to disconnect the existing light fixture's wires. Lower the fixture and unscrew it, allowing it to descend a few inches below its mount. You will typically find three wires attached: a hot wire, a grounding wire, and a neutral wire. To uncouple these wires, twist the wiring cap (also called a wire nut) to free them from each other. The hot wire is responsible for delivering electricity to the fixture, while the grounding wire provides a neutral point, like the earth, for surge electricity to dissipate.
Now, you will prepare the new light fixture for installation. Follow the specific instructions provided with the fixture for assembling its parts. If your light fixture includes a chain, adjust it to your desired length using chain pliers or pliers with a screwdriver. Attach the chain to the screw collar and hold the light fixture up against it.
The next step is to connect the new light fixture's wires to the house wires. This process will depend on the type of fixture you have. Newer fixtures typically have colour-coded wires, with black or red current wires, white neutral wires, and silver or copper ground wires. Twist the bare ends of the matching colour-coded wires together and then twist on a wire nut to secure the connection. If your fixture does not have colour-coded wires, choose one fixture wire and connect it to the black or red supply wire. Then, connect the other fixture wire to the white ceiling wire. Don't forget to connect the ground wires as well.
Finally, carefully tuck all the wires into the junction box and screw in the crossbar, nipple, lock nut, and screw collar loop that supports the fixture. You may need to use a ladder to reach the ceiling, so be sure to have someone stabilize it for you.
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Testing the new light
Testing a new light is a straightforward process, but safety should always be the top priority when working with electricity. Before you begin, ensure you have the correct safety gear, such as gloves and safety goggles, and always work in a dry environment.
First, turn off the power by visiting your breaker box and switching off the circuit connected to the light fixture. This is an important step to reduce the risk of electric shock. Next, use a voltage tester to confirm that no electricity is flowing to the fixture.
Now, you can begin testing the new light. If you are testing a light fixture with multiple bulbs, such as a chandelier, each connection will need to be tested individually. You can do this by taking an extension cord, wiring it to the fixture, and plugging it in. If all the bulbs light up, your wiring is intact.
If you are testing a light socket, you can use a multimeter or a voltage tester. Set the multimeter to read AC voltage, and touch one probe to the brass power contact tab at the bottom of the socket without touching the sidewall. Then, touch the other probe to the silver shell where the bulb threads into it, again, without touching a power source. If the multimeter reads around 120V, the socket and circuit are working.
If there is no reading, the light socket is not receiving power, and the neutral wiring may be faulty. In this case, you will need to turn off the breaker and take the socket apart to check the wires connected to it. Attach the continuity tester clip to the hot screw terminal (black wire) and touch the probe to the socket's metal tab. If the tester doesn't respond, the socket must be replaced. Continue testing by clipping the continuity tester to the neutral metal screw terminal (white wire) and touch the probe to the socket threads. If there is still no reading, the light socket needs to be replaced.
For LED lights, you will need a multimeter with a diode setting. Connect the red and black test leads to the outlets on the front of the multimeter. Touch the black probe to the cathode and the red probe to the anode, ensuring they do not touch each other during the test. If the LED lights up, check the value on the multimeter's digital display. An undamaged LED light should display a voltage of approximately 1600 mV. If there is no reading, the LED light may not be working.
If you are unsure about performing any of these tests, it is recommended to consult a professional electrician.
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Frequently asked questions
First, turn off the electricity supplied to the circuit on which you will be working. Then, unscrew and lower the fixture, and uncouple the wires. You will likely see three wires: a hot wire, a grounding wire, and a neutral wire. Disengage the wires by twisting the wiring cap until it comes free.
If the plastic box is attached to the ceiling, you will need to remove it. Depending on your access to it from above, this may be difficult. You can use a hole saw to remove the middle of the box, then use an oscillating tool to cut it into sections.
If your light fixture includes a chain, adjust the chain to your desired length. Attach the chain to the screw collar, then hold the light fixture up against it. Connect the light fixture to the junction box. Screw in the crossbar, the nipple, the lock nut, and the screw collar loop that supports the fixture. Carefully tuck the wires into the junction box.
If your light fixture does not have a ground wire, you can still install it as long as the wires have been stripped and the bare copper is securely inserted under the screw before tightening. Give it a tug to ensure the wire cannot pull free.
