Ethan Clarke
Buttons have been made from a variety of materials throughout history, from natural materials like bone, shell, and thorns to metals, glass, porcelain, and early plastics. The switch to plastic buttons occurred gradually over time, with plastic buttons becoming widely available in the 1930s and replacing most inexpensive glass and pearl buttons by the 1960s. The decline of the mother-of-pearl button industry due to overfishing and the advent of cheap, mass-produced plastic substitutes also contributed to the increased use of plastic buttons. Today, plastic buttons are commonly used, along with metal, wood, and seashell buttons, while other materials are used for premium or antique apparel. Sustainable materials like wood, bamboo, and recycled plastics are also being used to create eco-friendly buttons.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Year plastic buttons became widely available | 1930s |
| First plastic used for buttons | Celluloid |
| Year plastic was first used for buttons | 1870s |
| Reason for switch to plastic buttons | Cheaper to produce than natural materials |
| Materials plastic buttons replaced | Mother-of-pearl, glass, metal, wood, bone, ivory, tortoiseshell |
| Current materials used for buttons | Plastic, metal, wood, seashell |
| Sustainable materials used for buttons | Wood, bamboo, recycled plastics |
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What You'll Learn
The Industrial Revolution and the proliferation of button designs
The Industrial Revolution mechanised button production, making buttons more accessible to a wider range of people. The availability of new materials, such as glass, porcelain, and early plastics, led to a wide variety of button designs, from simple and utilitarian to intricate and ornate. Buttons became a way for people to express themselves and showcase their personal style and keep up with societal trends.
The 19th century saw extravagant buttons as popular elements of fashion. Diemakers created complex designs featuring scenes from plays, novels, and nursery rhymes. Elaborate buttons were not just a luxury item reflecting wealth and status, but also a way for people to connect with the latest trends in applied aesthetics and the applied visual arts.
By the early 20th century, the prevailing style in buttons had become much simpler, reflecting the more sedate look of the growing white-collar class. In the 1910s, inexpensive matching shirt buttons for men and women were available in variety stores.
Plastic buttons, which first emerged in the 1870s, became widely available in the 1930s, though most shirt buttons were still made of seashells or other natural materials. Bakelite, invented in 1907, had replaced almost all other synthetics for accessories by the 1930s. It was a medium for some of the most extravagant buttons of the 20th century, but other plastics eventually replaced it. By the 1960s, inexpensive glass and pearl buttons had been largely replaced by plastic.
Today, buttons continue to be both functional and artistic, with high-fashion designers using them as focal points or statement pieces. Sustainable materials like wood, bamboo, and recycled plastics are now being used to create eco-friendly buttons.
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The impact of the zipper
The invention and popularization of the zipper, or zip as it is known in some parts of the world, had a significant impact on clothing and fashion, and by extension, on the use of buttons and the shift towards plastic ones. The zipper, an ingenious fastening device, revolutionized the way garments were constructed and worn, offering convenience, speed, and a sleek, modern aesthetic.
The zipper's invention is credited to multiple people over time, with the earliest version being created by Whitcomb Judson in 1891. However, it was the Swedish-American engineer Gideon Sundback who perfected the design, creating the 'Hookless Fastener No. 2' in 1913, which closely resembles the zippers we use today. This invention allowed for the mass production of affordable, durable, and easy-to-use zippers, and it quickly gained popularity in the garment industry.
One of the most significant impacts of the zipper was on outerwear and the emergence of activewear. Zippers provided a quick and secure way to fasten coats, jackets, and sportswear, making them ideal for athletes and those leading active lifestyles. The zipper's ability to securely fasten garments also meant that designers could experiment with new styles and silhouettes, creating form-fitting or body-hugging garments that were easy to put on and take off. This led to the rise in popularity of activewear and sports-inspired fashion, with the zipper taking center stage.
As the zipper became a staple in clothing construction, it naturally reduced the reliance on buttons, especially for more casual garments. Buttons still maintained their dominance in formal wear and dressier garments, but the convenience and speed offered by zippers could not be ignored. This shift in fastening technology also influenced the move towards plastic buttons. With zippers offering a more modern and streamlined look, buttons had to adapt to keep up with changing fashion trends. Plastic buttons, with their versatility in shape, color, and design, offered a more affordable and trendy alternative to traditional metal or natural material buttons. They could be mass-produced in a variety of styles, matching the evolving aesthetic tastes of the time.
The zipper also influenced the design and construction of garments, especially in terms of closures. Before its invention, buttons were often used decoratively as well as functionally, with rows of buttons adorning the front of garments. With the zipper taking over the practical aspect of fastening, buttons now had more freedom to be used as decorative elements, with designers playing with their placement and arrangement to create visual interest. This decorative use of buttons further encouraged the use of plastic, as it allowed for more intricate and detailed designs, opening up a world of creative possibilities for fashion designers and manufacturers.
In conclusion, the invention and widespread adoption of the zipper had a significant impact on the clothing industry, influencing not only the construction and design of garments but also the use and evolution of buttons. The zipper's convenience and modern aesthetic challenged the dominance of buttons, leading to the exploration of new materials and designs, with plastic buttons emerging as a popular and versatile alternative. This shift in fastening technology continues to shape the fashion industry today, with zippers and buttons coexisting and complementing each other in modern garment design.
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The invention of Bakelite
Baekeland's inventive genius was fuelled by his desire to find a synthetic alternative to shellac, a natural resin made from the secretion of lac insects. By experimenting with the reactions of phenol and formaldehyde, he discovered a condensation reaction that produced a hard, mouldable, thermosetting plastic with excellent electrical non-conductivity and heat-resistant properties. This new material, named Bakelite after its inventor, could be moulded and hardened into any shape, making it incredibly versatile.
Bakelite's commercial success was immediate and far-reaching. It found widespread use in the electrical and automobile industries, replacing natural materials like ivory and tortoiseshell. By the 1930s, Bakelite had replaced almost all other synthetics for accessories, and its colourful products, from jewellery to radios, brightened everyday life in the first half of the 20th century. The Bakelite Corporation, formed in 1922, aggressively marketed the material as ""the material of a thousand uses""", and it soon became a constant presence in the technological infrastructure.
Bakelite's impact extended beyond its practical applications. Its ability to be moulded into various shapes and colours made it a popular choice for creating extravagant buttons, contributing to the fashion trends of the time. By the 1960s, plastic buttons had largely replaced inexpensive glass and pearl buttons, and they continue to be the most common material for buttons today, alongside seashell, metal, and wood.
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The decline of the mother-of-pearl button industry
The button industry, particularly the mother-of-pearl variety, reached its peak in the late 19th century. During this time, billions of pearl buttons were produced for garments, shoes, and accessories. The mother-of-pearl shell was one of the many types of shells used to make buttons, alongside nautilus, abalone, oyster, mussel, and snail shells.
The town of Muscatine, Iowa, was known for its production of mother-of-pearl buttons, with over one-third of the world's pearl shell buttons sourced from the freshwater mollusk shells in the Mississippi River. The process of making these buttons involved collecting mussels, heating and opening them, and removing the meat and any irregular-shaped freshwater pearls. The shiny inner surface of the shells was then cut into blanks, which were further carved, drilled, and polished to create buttons.
However, the mother-of-pearl button industry began to decline in the 20th century due to several factors. The over-fishing of pearl shells and the end of imports during the world wars impacted the availability of raw materials. Additionally, the advent of cheap, mass-produced plastic substitutes and the rise of new fasteners like zippers, which were patented in 1903, provided alternative options for manufacturers and consumers.
Today, mother-of-pearl buttons are still produced, but in much smaller quantities, as plastic, seashell, metal, and wood have become the most common materials for button-making. The decline of the mother-of-pearl button industry can be attributed to changing tastes, technological advancements, and the depletion of natural resources, leading to the dominance of plastic buttons in modern clothing and fashion design.
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The rise of sustainable and ethical practices in button-making
Buttons have been used since ancient times, with materials ranging from metal and wood to silk and leather. In the modern era, plastic and metal are the most common materials used in button-making, with plastic buttons known to have been in use since at least the mid-20th century. However, with the rise of sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry, there is a growing trend towards more eco-friendly and socially responsible button-making practices.
Sustainable buttons are crafted from renewable, recycled, or biodegradable materials, reducing environmental impact and promoting ethical sourcing practices. For example, natural materials like wood, tagua nuts, and coconut shells are frequently sourced from cooperatives that provide fair wages and safe working conditions. These buttons offer a rustic, organic touch to garments and are often left in their natural state or minimally treated with eco-friendly finishes.
The use of sustainable buttons contributes to reduced plastic pollution and lower carbon emissions. By choosing natural or recycled materials, the volume of plastic waste ending up in landfills and oceans is decreased. Additionally, sourcing buttons from renewable materials reduces the energy-intensive processes involved in producing plastic and metal buttons.
When selecting sustainable buttons, it is important to consider material compatibility and durability. For instance, lightweight buttons like coconut or recycled polyester are ideal for delicate fabrics, while metal or wooden buttons pair better with heavier textiles. Recycled metals and tagua buttons are perfect for outerwear, providing both durability and sustainability.
The fashion industry's embrace of sustainability extends beyond fabrics to include accessories like buttons. By adopting sustainable and ethical practices in button-making, fashion brands can reduce waste, lower their carbon footprint, and promote ethical labour and sourcing practices. This trend towards eco-friendly fasteners contributes to a greener fashion future, ensuring that even the smallest details are mindful of the environment and social responsibility.
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Frequently asked questions
Plastic buttons were used as early as the 1870s, but they became widely available in the 1930s.
The production of cheaper plastic buttons became more popular in the 20th century, leading to the decline of the mother-of-pearl button industry.
Before plastic, buttons were made from natural materials like bone, shell, thorns, metal, glass, porcelain, and mother-of-pearl.
Sustainable materials like wood, bamboo, and recycled plastics are being used to create eco-friendly buttons.
