Omar Khalid
The use of metal sequins can be traced back to ancient times, with gold sequins discovered in the tomb of King Tutankhamun in 1922. Metal sequins, known as spangles, were popular in Europe from the 17th to 19th centuries, especially among the nobility and upper class. In the 1920s, the discovery of King Tut's tomb sparked a wave of metal sequins on flapper dresses. However, by the 1930s, manufacturers began experimenting with gelatin sequins, which ultimately proved impractical due to their sensitivity to heat and water. During the same decade, Herbert Lieberman developed acetate sequins, which were more versatile and reflective but prone to cracking. In 1952, the invention of Mylar led to the creation of transparent polyester film sequins, marking the widespread adoption of plastic sequins. Today, modern sequins are typically made of plastic, offering a more durable and cost-effective alternative to metal sequins.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Metal sequins were replaced by | Plastic sequins |
| When did this happen? | In the 1950s, plastic sequins became widely available |
| Why did this happen? | Metal sequins were more expensive to produce than plastic ones |
| Were there any other reasons? | Metal sequins were heavier and less durable than plastic sequins |
| Were there any other materials considered? | Yes, gelatin sequins were developed in the 1930s but were impractical as they melted at low temperatures and dissolved in water |
| Who was involved in the development of plastic sequins? | Scientist Herbert Lieberman worked with Eastman Kodak to develop acetate sequins |
| What are plastic sequins made of? | Mylar, a transparent polyester film, or vinyl plastic |
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What You'll Learn
The use of metal sequins in ancient times
The use of metal sequins can be traced back to ancient times, with evidence of their existence dating back thousands of years. For instance, sequins made from nautilus shells have been discovered in Indonesia, dating back 12,000 years. Additionally, gold sequins were used as decorations in the Indus Valley during the Kot Diji phase, as early as 2500 BC.
The word "sequin" originates from the Arabic word "sikka," which means "coin." In ancient times, metal coins and ornaments were attached to clothing to display wealth, status, or to secure the item tightly. This practice was prevalent in various parts of the world, including Ancient Egypt, India, the Far East, and even Peru.
In the 13th century, gold coins produced in Venice were known as "zecchino," further influencing the use of metal sequins. Sewing precious metals and coins onto clothing served multiple purposes, including status symbols, theft deterrents, or spiritual guidance. For nomadic cultures, attaching coins to clothing ensured the safekeeping of valuables while also displaying wealth.
Metal sequins continued to be popular in the following centuries. During the 17th century, the modern sequin, a small thin metal disk known as a spangle, emerged in Europe. These spangles were made by punching out the desired shape from a thin metal sheet. They were commonly sewn into jackets, bonnets, and dresses, adorning the attire of European nobility and the upper class from the 17th to 19th centuries.
The discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 further influenced the popularity of metal sequins. Archeologists found solid gold sequins sewn into the royal garments inside the tomb, sparking a renewed interest in sequins during the 1920s, particularly among flapper girls who embraced the fashion statement.
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The shift to plastic sequins in the 1950s
The use of metal spangles as sequins continued well into the 19th century, adorning mostly women's clothing. Extravagant use of spangles was seen in the Edwardian Era, particularly on the gowns of French couturier Callot Soeurs. The discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 further popularised the use of sequins, with gold sequins found sewn onto the royal garments.
The history of sequins took a turn in the 1930s when manufacturers developed a process to create lightweight sequins using gelatin coloured with lead paint. These spangles, however, were not very practical as they melted at low temperatures and dissolved in water. This was followed by the development of acetate sequins by scientist Herbert Lieberman, who worked in film production for Eastman Kodak. These sequins were more versatile and less fragile, but they still ran the risk of cracking like glass.
By the 1950s, plastic sequins became widely available, marking a shift from metal to plastic sequins. This new material allowed for a range of colours and increased the accessibility and affordability of sequins. The shift to plastic sequins also meant that they could be produced on a larger scale, catering to the growing demand for flashy and glamorous costumes and partywear.
The use of plastic sequins has continued, and they remain a popular choice for fashion and costuming, often associated with rebellion and glamour. Despite the environmental concerns related to micro-plastics, plastic sequins are still favoured for their durability, versatility, and low cost.
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Plastic sequins and micro-plastics pollution
The use of sequins in clothing can be traced back to ancient times, with gold sequins discovered in Indonesia dating back 12,000 years. Solid gold sequins were also found in the tomb of Tutankhamun, and sequins were used in costumes during the Tudor period in England. The modern sequin, a small thin metal disk known as a spangle, appeared in Europe by the 17th century. During the 1920s and 1930s, sequins made from gelatin and plastic began to emerge, but these early plastic iterations were prone to melting and dissolving in water. It wasn't until the 1950s that plastic sequins became widely available and rose in popularity.
Today, sequins are almost always made of plastic with a metallic reflective coating. While they add sparkle to our lives, they also contribute significantly to plastic pollution. The problem starts with the manufacturing process, which involves punching out shapes from plastic sheets, resulting in plastic waste. When sequined clothing is discarded, the sequins can end up in landfills, where they remain indefinitely. Liquid waste from these landfills can carry microplastics into the environment, and researchers have found that landfill sites are potential sources of microplastic pollution.
The microplastics from sequins can contaminate water sources, with studies finding microplastics in drinking water samples worldwide. These tiny plastic particles can also enter our food chain, with an estimated average intake of 4,000 particles through drinking water annually. The synthetic nature of sequins, often containing toxic chemicals, poses a danger to the environment, whether they end up in the air, water, or soil.
To address this issue, some companies have started developing biodegradable sequins, but these eco-friendly alternatives are not yet widely available. Consumers can play a role in reducing plastic pollution by avoiding purchasing sequined items or opting for second-hand or borrowed pieces. Mending and rewearing sequined clothing can also help prevent plastic trims from falling off and contributing to microplastic pollution.
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Metal sequins in the 17th century to 19th century
The use of metal sequins has a long history, dating back thousands of years. Metal sequins, known as "spangles", were used as early as 2500 BC in the Indus Valley during the Kot Diji phase. Solid gold sequins were even found inside the tomb of Tutankhamun. In Europe, the use of metal sequins became prominent in the 17th century, where they were popular among the nobility and upper classes. These sequins, also called "spangles", consisted of small thin metal disks punched out of reflective metal sheets. They were sewn into jackets, bonnets, and dresses, adding a touch of luxury and glamour to the attire of the elite.
During the 17th century, the use of metal sequins continued to flourish, with examples found on men's waistcoats and frock coats, as well as women's clothing from the early 18th century through the Empire period. The "Plimoth Jacket", an early 17th-century garment adorned with over 10,000 metal spangles, stands as a remarkable testament to the popularity of metal sequins during this time.
In the 18th century, the use of metal sequins remained prevalent, with London goldsmiths supplying "spangles" and "oylets" of silver and gilt for the coronation of Henry VII of England in 1485. Metal sequins continued to be in vogue during the Edwardian era, with haute-couture designers like Callot Soeurs creating evening dresses entirely covered in sequins of various colours, forming intricate and dazzling patterns.
By the 19th century, the use of metal sequins was still prevalent, although they were more commonly found on women's clothing rather than men's, as male attire became more austere. During this time, 19th-century sequins were primarily made of shiny metal, continuing the tradition of using metal for these decorative ornaments.
The early 20th century marked a shift in the production of sequins, as they began to be mass-produced using materials like gelatin and acetate, making them more affordable and accessible to the general public. However, these early plastic sequins had their drawbacks, as they were susceptible to heat and water damage. It wasn't until the 1950s that plastic sequins truly became a widespread alternative to metal, when Herbert Lieberman sandwiched acetate sequins in mylar, creating washable, non-melting, and durable sequins that could compete with their metallic predecessors.
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Plastic sequins in modern times
Plastic sequins have become a common material in the fashion and costuming industries, as well as in high-visibility, performance-based events like parades and stage shows. They are also worn during holiday parties and New Year's Eve celebrations.
The history of sequins dates back thousands of years, with materials ranging from solid gold in Ancient Egypt to metal coins in the 13th century. In the 1930s, sequins were briefly made from gelatin derived from animal carcasses, but this material was prone to melting with heat and dissolving in water. During World War II, scientific inventions led to more durable sequins, and by the 1950s, plastic sequins became widely available. This marked a shift towards lightweight and mass-producible sequins that were more suitable for day-to-day wear.
The development of plastic sequins can be attributed to pioneers like Herbert Lieberman of the Algy Trimmings Co., who collaborated with Eastman Kodak to create sequins from acetate, a type of plastic material called cellulose acetate. These acetate sequins, however, were fragile and prone to cracking like glass. Subsequently, DuPont invented Mylar in 1952, leading to the adoption of transparent polyester film by the Lieberman-owned company. This marked another significant advancement in the production of plastic sequins.
In modern times, plastic sequins continue to be a popular choice for fashion and special occasions. They offer a lightweight and cost-effective alternative to metal sequins. The use of plastic sequins has also been associated with self-expression and glamour, particularly during the disco era of the 1970s. Icons like David Bowie and Michael Jackson further popularized sequins through their experimental and iconic fashion choices.
However, the widespread use of plastic sequins has also raised environmental concerns. Research suggests that millions of sequined items are discarded after the holiday season, contributing to textile and plastic waste. The non-biodegradable nature of plastic sequins poses a significant environmental challenge. To address this issue, some individuals are encouraged to borrow, rewear, or purchase second-hand sequined garments instead of constantly buying new ones.
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Frequently asked questions
Metal sequins, known as spangles, have been used since ancient times. Solid gold sequins were used as decoration on clothing in the Indus Valley as early as 2500 BC, and gold sequins were discovered in the tomb of King Tutankhamun, dating back to 1323 BC.
The use of metal sequins continued into the 19th century, and they were particularly popular during the Edwardian era. In the 1920s, after the discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb, metal sequins experienced a surge in popularity due to Egyptomania. However, by the 1930s, manufacturers began to experiment with creating sequins using gelatin and lead paint, and scientist Herbert Lieberman developed acetate sequins, marking a shift towards plastic alternatives.
Plastic sequins were widely available by the 1950s and became a symbol of glamour and rebellion. They were popularized by icons like David Bowie and embraced by the party culture of Studio 54.
Metal sequins were replaced by plastic sequins due to practicality and cost. Metal sequins were more expensive, and gelatin sequins, though introduced as an alternative in the 1930s, were impractical as they melted at low temperatures and dissolved in water. Plastic sequins offered a more durable, versatile, and affordable option.
