Applying Plastic Wood To Stairs: A Diy Guide

how to apply plastic wood stairs

Applying plastic wood to stairs is a great way to upgrade your staircase without breaking the bank. This process involves installing hardwood flooring on top of your existing stairs, which can be done in just a few simple steps. First, you'll need to measure the length and width of each step, including the tread (where you place your feet) and the riser (the back of each step). After cutting your chosen hardwood to size, you'll use construction adhesive to attach the new treads and risers to the stairs, securing them with nails or screws. Once the adhesive has dried, you can finish the stairs with polyurethane for added protection and a smooth surface.

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Prepare the area by laying out a plastic drop cloth and setting up a flat surface for the stairs

Before applying plastic wood to your stairs, it is important to prepare the area thoroughly. Start by laying out a plastic drop cloth to protect the surrounding area. Choose a slip-resistant drop cloth designed specifically for stairs, as plain plastic sheeting can be slippery and dangerous. Look for products such as Trimaco's Stay Put Canvas Plus, Eliminator, or Stay Put Surface Protector, which are designed to conform to the shape of the stairs and have slip-resistant features. Alternatively, you can use a combination of Clean&Safe® and MDF board, as suggested by Stefan Rumancik from Designer Builders.

Once you have selected the appropriate drop cloth, carefully measure the width of the steps and the length of the staircase. Then, cut the plastic to the desired size, subtracting one inch from the width measurement and doubling the length. This ensures that the plastic fits snugly on your stairs. If you are using a roll of plastic, unroll it from the top of the stairs to the bottom, creasing the material to fit the shape of the stairs.

To secure the plastic drop cloth in place, start by applying painter's tape along the outer edge of the steps on each side of the staircase. Press the tape firmly against the tread (horizontal board) and the riser (vertical board) of each step, unrolling more tape as you move down the staircase. This creates a border that will hold the plastic in place.

Now, position the cut piece of plastic at the top of the stairs, centering it between the two pieces of tape attached to the floor. Bring the remainder of the plastic down to the second step and secure the top edge with another strip of tape. This process helps remove any air trapped beneath the plastic and ensures it stays in place.

After the plastic drop cloth is securely in place, you can set up a flat surface on top of it to place the stairs. This surface will likely get covered in polyurethane, so it is recommended to use a flat workbench or sawhorses that can withstand this coating.

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Sand the stairs with 100-grit sandpaper, then 150-grit, and finally 220-grit

Sanding your stairs with progressively finer grit sandpaper is an important step in achieving a smooth finish. Starting with 100-grit sandpaper, you can begin to smooth out any scratches, imperfections, or painted surfaces. This grade of sandpaper is considered medium grit, which is ideal for hand-sanding and orbital sanders. Using circular motions, sand the stairs with 100-grit sandpaper until the surface is even and any visible scratches are removed.

Next, you'll move on to 150-grit sandpaper, which is considered very fine. This grade is perfect for scuff-sanding lacquer and other finishes, creating an ultra-smooth surface. Continue to sand the stairs with circular motions, ensuring you cover the entire surface evenly. This step will help prepare the stairs for the next coat of finish.

Finally, you'll use 220-grit sandpaper, which is classified as fine. This grade is commonly used to smooth out surfaces between paint coats, ensuring a smooth finish. Sand the stairs with the same circular motions, paying close attention to any crevices or imperfections. By using progressively finer grit sandpaper, you'll achieve a smooth and professional finish on your stairs, ready for the application of your chosen finish.

Sandpaper grit is a crucial factor in achieving the desired results. Coarser grits, such as 40- to 60-grit, are used for heavy sanding and stripping, while medium grits, like 80- to 120-grit, are suitable for smoothing surfaces. The finer grits, ranging from 150- to 220-grit and beyond, are ideal for achieving ultra-smooth finishes and are often used for scuff-sanding and preparing surfaces for new coats of finish.

Remember to always sand in the direction of the wood's grain and work your way down the stairs, starting at the top. Additionally, it's important to remove any dust or debris between sanding sessions and before applying any finish.

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Mix mineral spirits with polyurethane for the first coat

When applying polyurethane to wood stairs, it is important to mix mineral spirits with polyurethane for the first coat. This is because mineral spirits will provide a more forgiving coat, helping to eliminate any bubbles in the finish before it dries. To mix mineral spirits with polyurethane, follow these steps:

Firstly, pour the polyurethane into a separate container. It is important to only mix enough for one coat, as you do not want to thin the polyurethane for subsequent coats. For the first coat, a good starting ratio is three parts polyurethane to two parts mineral spirits, or a 50-50 mix. Stir the mixture slowly, as stirring or shaking too vigorously can create air and more bubbles.

Before applying the polyurethane, dip a 2-inch natural-bristled paintbrush into the mixture and run it along the brim of the bucket to remove any excess. Start at the top stair and work your way down, using long, uniform strokes in the direction of the wood's grain. Be careful to back brush over any drips or pools of polyurethane.

Allow the first coat to dry overnight. The next day, sand the stairs with 200-grit sandpaper, then vacuum and clean the stairs with a tack cloth and denatured alcohol. You are now ready to apply the second coat of polyurethane, which should be thinner than the first.

It is important to note that some people have experienced issues with using mineral spirits to thin polyurethane, particularly with odourless varieties. If you encounter problems, you may need to use a different thinner such as acetone or a lacquer brand's recommended proprietary thinner.

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Apply the first coat of polyurethane with a paintbrush, working from the top stair down

To apply the first coat of polyurethane with a paintbrush, start by mixing two parts mineral spirits with three parts polyurethane finish in a clean bucket. Only mix enough for the first coat, as this is the only coat that needs to be thinned to penetrate the wood better. Dip a 2-inch natural-bristled paintbrush into the mixture, then run the brush along the brim of the bucket to remove any excess.

Apply a thin coat of polyurethane to the stairs, working from the top stair down. Use long, uniform strokes, moving the brush in one direction only—following the direction of the wood's grain. Back brush over any drips or pools of polyurethane. Leave the first coat to dry overnight.

Once the first coat has dried, sand the stairs smooth with 200-grit sandpaper. You can then vacuum the stairs and clean them with a tack cloth and denatured alcohol. Apply a second coat in the same manner, using a clean brush. Do not thin the polyurethane for this coat. Allow the second coat to dry overnight as well.

If necessary, you can sand, clean, and apply a third coat. A fourth or fifth coat may be needed to achieve the desired appearance. Just remember to always sand and clean the wood between coats, except after the final coat. Do not sand the final coat of finish.

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Apply additional coats of polyurethane, sanding between coats, until you reach the desired finish

When applying polyurethane to wood stairs, it is important to note that polyurethane is a clear, plastic finish that is durable and ideal for protecting the wood from damage and enhancing its appearance. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on applying additional coats of polyurethane, ensuring a smooth and desirable finish:

Prepare the Work Area and Materials:

Before applying the second coat of polyurethane, it is crucial to prepare the work area and materials properly. Start by setting up a flat surface, preferably outdoors, and cover it with a plastic drop cloth. Place your sawhorses on top of the drop cloth and set up the stair treads on a flat surface on top of the sawhorses. Ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials, including polyurethane, a foam brush or air gun, 220-grit sandpaper, a hand sander, a vacuum, a tack cloth, and denatured alcohol.

Sanding and Smoothening:

Once the first coat of polyurethane has dried overnight, it's time to sand the surface. Use 220-grit sandpaper and a hand sander to smooth out the surface of the tread, ensuring you smooth out all the crevices left by the polyurethane. It is important to always sand in the direction of the grain of the wood. This process will help create an even and smooth base for the next coat of polyurethane.

Applying the Second Coat:

After sanding, use a foam brush to apply the second coat of polyurethane. Ensure that this coat is thinner than the first one. Work with the grain of the tread and apply a generous amount of polyurethane to the surface, covering the top and bottom of the bullnose or nosing and the entire surface of the tread. Make sure to keep the brush wet during application to avoid any dryness or clumps.

Drying and Sanding Again:

Allow the second coat of polyurethane to dry overnight. After it has dried completely, repeat the sanding process using 220-grit sandpaper. Smooth out the entire surface of the tread, removing any imperfections or uneven areas. This step is crucial to ensure a desirable final finish.

Applying the Final Coat:

Once the tread has been smoothed out to your satisfaction, it's time for the final coat of polyurethane. Apply this coat thinly and ensure that it is as smooth as possible. Follow the grain of the wood and cover all the necessary areas, just as you did with the previous coats.

Final Drying and Completion:

Allow the final coat of polyurethane to dry overnight. Do not sand this final coat. Your stairs should now have a desirable finish that is smooth, durable, and protective. This process of applying multiple coats of polyurethane, sanding between coats, and ensuring proper drying time will result in a high-quality finish that enhances the appearance of your stairs and protects them from stains, water damage, scuffs, and scratches.

Frequently asked questions

First, you need to measure each step of your stairs separately: the tread (where you place your feet) and the riser (the back of each stair). If your stairs are uneven, you may need to trim the largest riser. Next, cut the overhang with a circular or reciprocating saw. Work your way up the staircase, cutting any overhang from each stair tread so that they are flush with the riser.

You can use construction adhesive and screws to secure the new finish. Apply a generous amount of construction adhesive under each tread and riser, then screw from the back to secure. You can also use nails in spots that will be hidden, like the top edge. Repeat this process for each step, working your way up the stairs.

Mix two parts mineral spirits and three parts polyurethane finish into a clean bucket. Dip a 2-inch natural-bristled paintbrush into the mixture and apply a thin coat of polyurethane onto the wood stairs. Start at the top stair and work your way down, using long, uniform strokes in the direction of the wood's grain. Allow the first coat to dry overnight, then sand the stairs smooth with 200-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the stairs and apply a second coat in the same manner.

Yes, you will likely need to apply at least two coats of polyurethane. You can apply the second coat in the same manner as the first, allowing it to dry overnight. If necessary, you can apply a third coat, but be sure to sand and clean the wood between each coat. Do not sand the final coat.

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