Sofia Martinez
Building a plastic water tank is a simple process that can be completed within a weekend. The process is known as rotational moulding, which involves using a heated hollow mould that is filled with a polymer powder. The mould is then rotated to allow the softened material to disperse and stick to the walls of the mould. This process can be used to create tanks of varying sizes, from small boats to large 4000-litre water tanks. Building your own plastic water tank can also be a cost-effective alternative to purchasing a commercial vessel, allowing you to customise the size and shape to suit your specific needs.
Characteristics and Values of Building a Plastic Water Tank
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Manufacturing Process | Rotational moulding |
| Mould Material | Metal |
| Mould Filling Material | Polymer powder |
| Mould Heating | Placed in an oven |
| Mould Rotation | Bi-rotational |
| Mould Cooling | Outside the oven |
| Mould Size | Up to 4000mm in diameter and 3900mm in height |
| Tank Capacity | 50 litres to 40,000 litres |
| Tank Material | Plastic |
| Tank Wall Thickness | Varies, affects manufacturing time |
| Construction Time | A weekend |
| Construction Cost | ~$34 for a 1,762-gallon tank |
| Construction Difficulty | Relatively little expense and effort |
| Tank Durability | Resistant to sharp objects |
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What You'll Learn
Sourcing materials
Firstly, you will need to purchase a metal mould, which will form the structure of your tank. This can be sourced from specialist mould manufacturers or, if you're feeling creative, you can attempt to make your own. The size of the mould will depend on your desired tank capacity. For context, a 3' x 10' mould can create a 1,762-gallon reservoir, whereas larger moulds can create tanks with capacities of up to 40,000 litres.
The next key material is the polymer powder, which will be filled into the mould. This can be purchased from chemical suppliers or plastic manufacturers. Ensure you buy a food-grade polymer if your tank is intended for potable water.
Additionally, you will need a large roll of plastic, such as the 4-mil black Visqueen plastic, to line your tank and help contain the water. This plastic should be durable and waterproof. You may also need a roll of organic asphalt roofing felt to provide an extra layer of protection for your tank.
Finally, you will require some welded wire, such as a 3' x 50' roll of 14-gauge, 2" x 4" welded wire, to provide structural support and help secure the shape of your tank. Don't forget to also pick up some basic tools like sand, a coat hanger or stiff wire, and any other fastening materials you may need during the construction process.
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Levelling the ground
Before you start building your plastic water tank, it is important to level the ground where you plan to set it up. This step is crucial and should not be taken lightly, as an uneven surface can cause the container's restraining wire to warp under the weight of the water. Begin by choosing a suitable location for your water tank, considering factors such as proximity to a water source, ease of access, and stability of the ground.
Once you have selected the location, remove any debris, rocks, or vegetation from the area to create a clear and level surface. Use a shovel or a rake to break up any large clumps of dirt or soil and smooth out any uneven patches. Ensure that the area is slightly larger than the base of your tank, giving yourself some room to work with.
If the ground is particularly uneven, you may need to excavate the site to create a more stable surface. Use a level tool to check the evenness of the ground as you work. Dig out any high spots and fill in low spots with dirt or gravel, packing it down firmly to create a solid base. It is important to take your time during this process to ensure that the ground is as level as possible.
After levelling the ground, consider adding a layer of sand or crushed gravel to create a stable base for your water tank. This will help with weight distribution and provide a flat surface for the tank to rest on. Use a rake or a flat piece of wood to smooth out the sand or gravel and ensure it is level.
Finally, once you are satisfied with the evenness of the ground, you can begin the next steps of building your plastic water tank. Remember that a sturdy and level foundation is key to ensuring the stability and longevity of your water tank.
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Constructing the mould
Constructing a mould for a plastic water tank can be done through a process called rotational moulding. This process involves a heated hollow mould that is filled with a shot weight of the polymer. The mould is then slowly rotated bi-rotationally, causing the softened material to disperse and stick to the walls of the mould. To begin constructing the mould, follow these steps:
First, purchase or create a metal mould that suits the desired size and shape of your plastic water tank. The mould should be hollow to allow for the filling and rotation of the polymer material. Ensure that the mould is made from a metal that can withstand high temperatures without warping or deforming.
Next, prepare the polymer material that will be used to create the plastic water tank. This typically involves using a polymer powder, which can be purchased from specialist suppliers or created by grinding or shredding plastic pellets or particles. The amount of polymer material needed will depend on the size and thickness of your desired water tank.
Before loading the mould with the polymer, ensure that the mould is clean and free of any debris or residue that may affect the final product. Preheat the mould to a temperature suitable for the polymer you are using, following the manufacturer's instructions or industry guidelines to ensure safety and effectiveness.
Once the mould is heated, carefully load the polymer into the mould. Use a scoop or funnel to evenly distribute the polymer powder onto the mould's surface. It is important to use the correct amount of polymer, as too little may result in a thin or uneven tank wall, while too much can cause excess material and waste.
After loading the polymer, slowly rotate the mould bi-rotationally. This can be done manually or using specialised equipment. Ensure that the rotation speed and direction allow for even distribution of the polymer onto the mould's surfaces. Maintain the temperature of the mould during this process to keep the polymer softened and pliable.
Finally, allow the polymer to cool and harden within the mould. This step is crucial, as removing the mould too early can cause the polymer to sag or deform. Once the polymer has cooled and set, carefully remove the mould to reveal your completed plastic water tank.
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Rotational moulding
The process of rotational moulding for water tanks can be broken down into four stages: loading the mould, heating and rotation, cooling, and removal from the mould. During the loading stage, the metal mould is filled with a polymer powder, typically polyethylene, and then moved into an oven. Polyethylene is a durable and flexible material that can withstand impact and vibration, making it ideal for water tanks.
The second stage involves heating the mould and rotating it bi-axially or bi-rotationally. This rotation ensures that the polymer powder melts and coats the walls of the mould evenly, preventing sagging or deformation. The mould continues to rotate during the heating phase to maintain even distribution. The heating and rotation stage can take anywhere from 20 minutes to more than 3 hours, depending on the size of the tank and the desired wall thickness.
Once the polymer has fully coated the walls of the mould, the third stage of cooling begins. During this stage, the mould is removed from the oven, and the plastic tank cools down and solidifies into its final shape. The cooling process is crucial to ensuring the integrity of the plastic and can also vary in time depending on the size of the tank and wall thickness.
Finally, during the removal stage, the mould is opened, and the plastic water tank is taken out. The rotational moulding process results in a seamless, one-piece construction without any welded joints, screws, or bolts. This construction method enhances the strength and durability of the water tank, as there are no weak points or parts prone to damage.
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Finishing touches
Once you've collected the materials and levelled the area, it's time to start assembling your plastic water tank. Begin by placing the first piece of plastic in the tank, centring it accurately. The next step is to cut a second piece of plastic to the full roll width and a length of 17 feet. Place this second section in the tank over the first piece, ensuring it is centred as well.
Now, you can start filling the tank with water. Before the water level reaches one inch, go around the container and carefully remove any major creases from the liner's bottom, working from the outside. When the water is about two to three inches deep, gently push a few inches of soil against the tank's outer wall and tamp it down with moderate pressure. Be careful not to force the felt wrapping away from the wall.
As the tank fills with water, pull the plastic sides up to keep the pleats smooth and vertical. When the tank is nearly full, cut the liner material, leaving a three- or four-inch skirt above the top of the wall. Finally, fold this extra plastic border over the felt and tuck it neatly between the asphalt skin and the welded wire wall, or between two layers of felt if you've used more than one layer.
Your homemade water tank is now complete, and with proper care, it should serve you well for many years. This DIY project not only saves you money but also provides the flexibility to design a tank that suits your specific needs and terrain.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a 3′ X 50′ roll of 14-gauge, 2″ X 4″ welded wire, a roll of 3′-wide, 30-pound organic asphalt roofing felt, a 20′ X 100′ roll of 4-mil black Visqueen plastic, washed sand, and a short length of stiff wire or a coat hanger.
You can make your water tank almost any capacity up to 3,500 gallons.
First, level the area where you intend to set up your tank. This step is important because if the ground isn't flat, the container's restraining wire could warp under the weight of the water.
After levelling the ground, begin by cutting a piece of plastic to the full roll width and 17 feet in length. Place it in the tank, centering it accurately.
The process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to more than 3 hours, depending on the size of the tank and the thickness of the walls.
