Sofia Martinez
Installing plastic on a hoop house is a straightforward process that can be done by two people, although more helpers are always better. The ideal time to install plastic on a hoop house is on a calm, windless, and warm day, preferably around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. This is because plastic expands and contracts with temperature changes, and installing it in warm weather reduces the potential for loose plastic when the weather gets cold. The first step is to pull the plastic over the top of the structure, followed by attaching the plastic on the ends and then the sides. The plastic should be pulled taut and secured with channel and spring wire, with at least one attachment every 12 feet.
Characteristics and Values Table for Installing Plastic on a Hoop House
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ideal Weather | Mild, sunny, and windless day |
| Plastic Type | Polyethylene, or poly, plastic |
| Plastic Size | Depends on the hoop house; order the right size in advance |
| Preparation | Place the plastic roll near the hoop house overnight to acclimatize to the temperature |
| Installation Process | Pull the plastic over the top of the structure, keeping it taut and securing it with channel and spring/wiggle wire; attach the ends, then the sides; cut off excess plastic |
| Tools | Nails, wood laths, hammer, duct tape, jumper hoses, inflation hose, manometer, broom or SnoBrum, stepladder, plastic water bottle, sock, rope |
| Crew | At least two people are required for installation |
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What You'll Learn
- Choose the right day: calm, warm, and sunny
- Prepare the plastic: roll out, cut, and fold
- Secure the plastic: use wiggle wire, staples, or locking channels
- Attach the plastic: pull taut and fasten with wood lath, nails, and a hammer
- Finishing touches: cut excess plastic, refit manometer, and attach hoses
Choose the right day: calm, warm, and sunny
Calm, warm, and sunny weather is ideal for installing plastic on a hoop house. Hoop houses are solar-heated structures that provide a warmer, calmer, and more controlled environment for growing plants.
Installing plastic on a calm day is crucial because high winds can make the process difficult and unsafe. Even moderate winds can exert a lot of force on a hoop house, so it is important to choose a calm day for installation. Additionally, installing the plastic in warm temperatures ensures that the plastic will be dry and have some stretch. Warm temperatures also allow for a tighter installation, reducing movement in the wind and minimizing wear and tear on the plastic.
Working on a sunny day is advantageous because sunlight can help identify any areas that need adjustment. The sunlight will reveal any sagging or uneven areas, allowing for proper coverage and airflow. Sunlight is also essential for the long-term performance of the plastic. Plastic from hardware stores can degrade in sunlight and tear within a year or two. Therefore, choosing a sunny day to install higher-quality, UV-protected plastic will ensure better thermal performance and a longer lifespan for your hoop house.
Overall, selecting a calm, warm, and sunny day for installation will facilitate the process and optimize the functionality and durability of your hoop house.
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Prepare the plastic: roll out, cut, and fold
When preparing the plastic for your hoop house, there are several important steps to follow. Firstly, ensure you have ordered the right size and type of plastic for your structure. Polyethylene, or poly, plastic is a durable and opaque option that is commonly used. Place the roll of plastic near the hoop house structure the night before installation, allowing it to acclimate to the outdoor temperature.
On the day of installation, unroll the plastic outside the hoop house. Choose a calm, windless day with warm temperatures for this task; a sunny day with around 70-degree weather is ideal as the plastic expands and contracts with temperature changes. If you can only work on a breezy day, do this task at dusk or dawn when the wind is typically calmer.
When unrolling the plastic, keep the surface that will be on the inside facing down, ensuring it stays dry. If the ground is damp, use the old plastic as a base to protect the new plastic. You can also fold the plastic in towards the centre and secure it with a rope, creating a smoother pull when you eventually stretch it over the structure.
After unrolling, cut the plastic to the required length, ensuring it will reach the ground on all sides. You can also cut the old plastic into 10' wide lengths for future low tunnels if desired. Once the plastic is unrolled and cut, it is ready to be installed on your hoop house.
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Secure the plastic: use wiggle wire, staples, or locking channels
When it comes to securing the plastic on your hoop house, there are several methods you can choose from, each with its own advantages. Here is a detailed guide on using wiggle wire, staples, or locking channels to secure the plastic:
Wiggle Wire
Wiggle wire, also known as spring wire, is a popular choice for securing greenhouse plastic. It is made of galvanized steel and sometimes features a PVC coating to protect it from the elements and prevent tearing of the plastic. The main advantage of wiggle wire is that it provides a continuous and tight attachment to the structure without the need for screws or staples, which can tear the plastic. To install wiggle wire, first secure the lock channel to the baseboards, hip boards, and end wall hoops. Then, use the wiggle wire to tack the plastic into the channel, creating a secure hold.
Staples
Staples are another option for securing the plastic to your hoop house. While they provide a sturdy hold, they do have some drawbacks. Staples must be attached every few inches, and removing them can result in tears or holes in the plastic. If you opt for staples, be sure to use high-quality staples specifically designed for this purpose.
Locking Channels
Locking channels, also referred to as Poly Lock Channels, are an industry-standard method for securing greenhouse plastic. They are typically made of aluminum or galvanized steel and can be secured to lumber or steel tubing. The locking channel works in conjunction with spring wire to hold the plastic firmly in place. This method is simple, economical, and allows for easy adjustments without damaging the plastic. Locking channels come in various sizes, including single, double, and deep channels, each designed to accommodate different layers of spring wire and material thicknesses.
When choosing between wiggle wire, staples, and locking channels, consider the advantages of each. Wiggle wire and locking channels offer a more secure and adjustable hold, while staples provide a traditional but less flexible option. Remember to follow manufacturer instructions and take the necessary precautions to ensure a safe and successful installation.
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Attach the plastic: pull taut and fasten with wood lath, nails, and a hammer
When attaching the plastic, it is important to pull it taut and fasten it securely with wood lath, nails, and a hammer. This process should be done in mild, sunny weather, ideally with winds below 5 mph. If you are working in a breezy environment, consider doing this task at dusk or dawn in the summer when winds are calmer. Pull the plastic down towards the ground until it is taut at the end wall. Secure it in place by pressing a wood lath strip against the film on the structure's wood base framing. Use a hammer to nail the lath to the framing, with at least three nails for a secure hold.
Repeat this process, adding wood lath pieces and nails until the entire end wall is attached. Then, pull the plastic down towards the ground on the opposite end wall and secure it with wood lath and nails. Continue to pull the plastic down the structure's sides, fastening it with wood lath, nails, and a hammer. Make sure to pull the plastic tight to reduce movement in the wind and potential wear and tear. Cut off any excess plastic at ground level for a neater appearance.
If you prefer a different fastening method, you can use staples instead of nails and wood lath. However, staples may tear into the plastic over time, especially in windy areas. Another option is to use locking channels, which hold the film securely but also allow for simple detachment, preserving the structural integrity of the plastic. Spring Wire Poly Lock Channels are a popular choice for hoop houses and high tunnels, providing the flexibility to make adjustments to your top cover.
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Finishing touches: cut excess plastic, refit manometer, and attach hoses
Once the plastic has been pulled over the hoop house, it's time to make the finishing touches. Cut any excess plastic with scissors at ground level to achieve a better final appearance. Be sure not to cut the outer plastic when you make the hole for the tubing.
Now, you can refit your manometer. You can do this before turning on the blower, or later, but if you choose to do it later, be careful not to cut the outer plastic when making the hole for the tubing.
Finally, work in pairs to attach your jumper hoses and inflation hose. You won’t be able to access the outside after you put the outer plastic on, so be sure to start with undersized holes in the plastic and stretch them to fit.
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Frequently asked questions
It is best to install plastic on a hoop house on a calm, warm, and sunny day. Avoid windy days as the film will not stay in place and may cause injury.
The general order of operations for any plastic installation is as follows: get plastic on your tunnel, attach the plastic on the ends, then attach the plastic on the sides.
There are several ways to attach plastic to the metal framing of a hoop house, including:
- Spring Wire Poly Lock Channel
- Double Channel Poly Lock
- Snap Clamps
