Ethan Clarke
If you have a pair of old speakers with damaged foam surrounds, you can easily refoam them yourself. The process involves removing the old surrounds, cleaning the cone and frame, and gluing new foam or rubber surrounds in place. You can buy speaker refoam kits online, which typically include the necessary tools and materials such as glue, paintbrushes, shims, and speaker edges. The process is straightforward and can bring your old speakers back to life, saving you from having to spend a fortune on new ones.
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What You'll Learn
Removing the speaker from the cabinet
Removing the speaker from its cabinet is a delicate process that requires careful attention to avoid damaging the speaker or the cabinet. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Locate the screws holding the speaker in place: Typically, there are four to six screws holding the speaker in place, sometimes more, and they are usually Phillips head or Allen head screws. Carefully unscrew them, making sure not to strip the heads or damage the surrounding cabinet.
Pry the speaker gently: After removing the screws, you'll need to gently pry the speaker out of the cabinet. Use a flat-blade screwdriver or a similar tool, such as a putty knife, and work your way around the perimeter of the speaker, applying steady pressure. Be cautious not to damage the speaker or the cabinet during this process. It may take some effort as the speaker is often very tightly fitted.
Deal with the wiring carefully: As you pull the speaker out, be mindful of the wiring. Don't pull the speaker out too far, as it could damage the wires. Disconnect the wires carefully, taking note of their proper connections for reassembly.
Remove the plastic or cardboard ring: Around the rim of the speaker basket, there may be a plastic or cardboard ring covering the foam edge. Gently pry this away with a screwdriver or putty knife. Be especially careful with a plastic ring, as it is more delicate and prone to breakage.
Separate the speaker grille from the cabinet: If the speaker has a non-removable grille that needs to be separated from the cabinet, use two flat-head screwdrivers. Insert them into the elongated slots at the base of the grille and cabinet, and apply gentle upward pressure on the grille while applying downward pressure on the cabinet. This will help separate the grille without causing visible damage.
By following these steps carefully, you should be able to successfully remove the speaker from its cabinet, ready for the next steps in the refoaming process. Remember to take your time and be gentle to avoid any accidental damage to the speaker or cabinet.
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Scraping off old foam and adhesive
To begin the re-foaming process, you must first remove the old foam and adhesive from the speaker frame. This can be done with a utility knife, being careful not to damage the speaker cone. A rotary tool, wire brush, or chisel can also be used, but be cautious not to damage the speaker. You can use a flat blade cutter to scratch out the foam and glue remains, but be careful not to cut the cardboard cone.
The cone is relatively durable, but it is important to support it from below to prevent movement and potential damage to the voice coil. Rubbing alcohol can be used to help loosen the old foam and make it easier to remove. It is important to thoroughly clean the cone and frame before proceeding.
Once the old foam and adhesive have been removed, you can test fit the new foam edge. Some kits may need to be trimmed for a proper fit. It is important to ensure that the new foam edge is the correct size and type for your speaker. The inner and outer diameters of the bumping central stripe of the surrounds should be measured to ensure a proper fit.
If your speakers have vanity rings, you may need to use a hair dryer or heat gun to remove them. Take out all the drivers and ensure the leads are all in place. It is important to keep track of where each lead goes to avoid confusion when reassembling the speaker. While the drivers are out, it is a good opportunity to clean the cabinets.
When re-foaming, it is generally recommended to repair the woofer with the same type of ring used by the manufacturer. This ensures the woofer performs according to the original specifications. Foam, rubber, and fabric rings each have different properties and weights, so choosing the correct type is important.
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Measuring the speaker cone
To measure the speaker cone, you will need to remove the dust cover and any old foam or glue residue from the speaker. This can be done with a cutter or a knife, but be careful not to cut the cone itself.
Once the cone is clean, you can start taking the measurements. It is important to measure the foam only and not the frame or cone. Measure the inside and outside diameters of the original foam, even if it has disintegrated. You can imagine your speaker as a clock and measure from 9:00 to 3:00 across the centre of the speaker. If there is a gasket, remove it to measure the foam edge accurately.
When evaluating the measurements, remember that the inside edge of the foam will overlap the outside edge of the cone. If your foam mounts to the back of the cone, add at least 0.25" (6.35 mm) to each side of the inner diameter or 0.5" (12.70 mm) to the inner diameter of the foam.
Additionally, you will need to measure the external diameter of the cardboard cone and the inner diameter of the steel frame to choose the right size for your speaker's surrounds. You can choose between foam or rubber edges.
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Gluing the foam to the cone
When gluing the foam to the cone, it is important to centre the cone. To do this, you will need to obtain access to the central steel core. It is usually covered by a cardboard plate, which you will need to take off. Once you have removed the dust cover, you can use spacers to hold the cone centred in the coil.
Before gluing, you will need to remove the old foam and adhesive from the cone. You can use a utility knife to scrape the old foam and adhesive off the speaker frame. You can also use a rotary tool, wire brush, or chisel, but be careful not to damage the speaker cone. To remove the old foam and adhesive from the cone, use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. The cone is relatively durable, but you should support it from below to keep it from moving too much and damaging the voice coil.
After the newly cleaned cone and frame have dried, test the fit of the new foam edge. Some kits need to be trimmed to fit properly. Apply a 1/8" bead of the speaker adhesive to the top edge of the speaker cone. You can use any vinylic glue, but check that it will become completely transparent, as some remain white after drying. Add glue all around both the frame and cone, trying to pour the right amount and to diffuse it uniformly. Now, add the foam edge, pushing it gently over the glue. Avoid forcing the cone to one side or the other, as it needs to remain centred. With your finger, spread any excess glue—don't worry if it appears to be too much, as when the glue dries, any excess will disappear.
After gluing, you will need to exercise the cone. After waiting one hour for the adhesive to fully cure, push the cone in and out of the voice coil to get a feel for the speaker. If the speaker is not lined up properly with the voice coil, they will rub against each other, and the speakers will not work properly.
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Trimming the foam
Removing the Old Foam
Start by carefully removing the old, deteriorated foam from the speaker. Use a utility knife to scrape away the old foam and adhesive from the speaker frame and cone. Be cautious not to damage the cone during this process. Rubbing alcohol can be used to loosen the old foam, making it easier to remove. Additionally, clean any glue remains and dust from the cone and frame to achieve a smooth surface.
Selecting the Correct Size
Choosing the right size for the new foam edge is critical. Measure the external diameter of the cardboard cone and the inner diameter of the steel frame. These measurements will help you select the appropriate size for the new foam edge. Remember that the inner and outer diameters of the full rubber or foam piece may vary slightly.
Once you have the new foam edge, test its fit on the cleaned cone and frame. If it requires trimming, focus on the outside edge. The outer trim is less crucial than the inside fit (roll to roll), which must be precise. Carefully trim the foam edge to match the dimensions of your speaker, ensuring that it aligns perfectly with the cone and frame.
Gluing the Foam
After trimming the foam to the appropriate size, it's time to glue it into place. Apply a bead of speaker adhesive to the top edge of the speaker cone and the area between the foam and the frame. Use a small amount of glue and distribute it evenly. Gently push the foam onto the cone, ensuring it remains centred. Remove any excess glue with your finger, as it will disappear when dry.
Centering the Cone
During the gluing process, pay close attention to centring the cone. Access the central steel core by removing the protective cardboard plate. Use shims or strips of paper to hold the voice coil in place while gluing, preventing uneven tension. This step is crucial, as improper tension can cause the voice coil to abrade and short-circuit.
Drying and Testing
Allow the adhesive to cure for about an hour. After it has dried, exercise the cone by pushing it in and out of the voice coil to ensure proper alignment and smooth movement. If your speaker requires a dust cover, remove it before testing. Reinstall the dust cover and speaker, and test the sound.
Remember that the sound of refoamed speakers may change over time. The new foam or rubber surround will become more flexible, resulting in increased bass weight and a less bright sound delivery.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step is to remove the old foam and adhesive from the speaker frame and cone. You can use a utility knife or a rotary tool to scrape off the old foam and adhesive. Be careful not to damage the speaker cone.
It is recommended to use a slow-drying white glue, such as PVA, as it allows for adjustments before the glue sets. Quick-drying glues or contact glues should be avoided as they can damage the rings.
To centre the cone, you need to access the central steel core by removing the protective cardboard plate. Ensure the surfaces are clean and free of dust and iron filings, as they can obstruct the gap around the magnet and affect the cone movement.
It is recommended to repair woofers in pairs, as a refoamed woofer will sound slightly different from woofers with deteriorated surrounds. Additionally, if one surround has deteriorated, the other is likely to fail soon.
