Omar Khalid
ABS plastic is a popular material for 3D printing due to its quality, efficiency, and ability to make complex parts. However, 3D-printed parts made from ABS plastic are not as strong as solid plastic and may require reinforcement. One method of reinforcing ABS plastic is by using acetone to bond a layer of fiberglass to the plastic. Another method is to use epoxy resin and fiberglass fabric to create a strong, solid structure. Increasing the wall thickness of the 3D-printed part can also improve strength and watertightness. Additionally, annealing, which involves increasing the temperature of the 3D-printed part, can strengthen ABS plastic by reorganizing its crystalline structure.
Characteristics and their values for reinforcing plastic ABS 3D printing:
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Reinforcement Material | Fiberglass, Epoxy, Polycarbonate with Carbon Fiber Reinforcement |
| Techniques | Annealing, Acetone bath, Flame treatment |
| Strength Improvement | Up to 40% increase in strength with annealing |
| Wall Thickness | Minimum of 1.2mm, preferably 1.6mm or higher |
| Infill Density | 10% infill with a Cubic pattern for strength |
| Infill Pattern | Grid, Cubic (Honeycomb), Triangle |
| Nozzle Temperature | Increased temperature improves fusion |
| Extrusion Width | Greater width improves strength but reduces detail |
| Weight | Fiberglass reinforcement may increase weight |
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What You'll Learn
Use epoxy and fibreglass
One way to reinforce 3D-printed ABS plastic parts is to use epoxy and fibreglass. This method can strengthen the part and make it more durable. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
Prepare the Materials
Gather the necessary materials: epoxy resin, fibreglass fabric or threads, nylon, acetone (optional), and any tools you may need for application, such as brushes or rollers.
Surface Treatment (Optional)
Some sources suggest treating the ABS surface with a solvent like acetone to improve the bond between the plastic and fibreglass. Apply a thin layer of acetone to the ABS surface and then quickly press the fibreglass layer into the melted plastic. This method may require a jig to hold the parts in place while they dry to prevent warping.
Epoxy Application
Cut the fibreglass fabric to the required shape and size. Place the fibreglass fabric on a piece of nylon, as epoxy does not stick well to nylon. Apply epoxy resin to the surface of the fibreglass fabric. You can use brushes or rollers for this step, ensuring an even application.
Layering
Place the epoxy-coated fibreglass fabric onto the ABS surface and apply more epoxy on top. Repeat this process for each layer and on all sides of the part. It is important to ensure that the fibreglass fabric becomes transparent, indicating sufficient epoxy penetration.
Curing
Allow each layer to cure completely before moving on to the next side or applying additional layers. The curing process can take around a day or more, depending on the epoxy and environmental conditions.
Finishing
Once all sides are coated and cured, you can finish the part by sanding or adding any additional coatings or treatments. Drilling holes or creating grooves in the ABS plastic can also provide extra strength and holding points for the epoxy to cure within.
Reinforcing 3D-printed parts with epoxy and fibreglass can be a messy and time-consuming process, but it can significantly improve the strength and durability of the final product.
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Increase wall thickness
Increasing wall thickness is one of the best methods to reinforce and strengthen 3D prints. The wall thickness refers to the distance between one surface of a model and the opposite surface. It is typically measured in millimetres (mm).
The minimum wall thickness will depend on the material used and the application of the 3D print. For instance, parts that require high precision and fine details might need thinner walls, while those that need to bear significant loads or undergo mechanical stress should have thicker walls. Generally, the minimum wall thickness should be at least twice the nozzle diameter to ensure proper adhesion and strength. For example, if using a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, the recommended minimum wall thickness would be 0.8 mm or more.
For stronger materials like Alumide and Sculpteo plastic, a minimum wall thickness of 1.0 mm is recommended. These materials can handle thinner walls without compromising structural integrity. Softer materials, such as Sculpteo’s multi-colour material, require thicker walls of at least 2.0 mm to maintain stability and prevent deformation. For widely used materials such as PLA and ABS, a minimum wall thickness of 1.0 mm is sufficient to ensure solid and durable prints. However, some sources recommend a minimum wall thickness of 1.2 mm for ABS specifically, and for more strength, you can definitely go higher. Increasing wall thickness has the added benefit of improving overhangs and making 3D prints more watertight.
It is also important to understand the difference between supported and unsupported walls. Supported walls have structural backing or support structures to maintain their shape during printing, while unsupported walls do not have this additional support. Supported walls can be thinner as the support reduces the risk of deformation, whereas unsupported walls must be thicker to rely solely on their own integrity.
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Use an infill pattern built for strength
The infill pattern is the internal structure of the object being printed. It serves as the internal support structure for the part, so without it, nothing would be holding the walls or shells together. The purpose of your print will determine the infill pattern you should use. If you want your object to be lightweight and not subject to much stress, a hollow design is generally preferred. This will also help you conserve materials and reduce production costs. However, if you need your object to be strong, a solid design is usually better.
When it comes to strength, people tend to use a Grid or Cubic (Honeycomb) pattern. The Triangle pattern is also good for strength, but you will need to have a good top layer thickness to get an even top surface. The Triangular infill is the strongest infill pattern because triangles are the strongest shape. They are the least likely to deform and provide the best support structure behind the walls of the part. This type of infill prints relatively quickly because the print head mostly travels in straight lines across the part. The strength and speed combined make triangular infill one of the best choices for infill in 3D printing.
The Cubic infill pattern is perfect for creating functional parts that need to withstand stresses. The Cubic sub-division pattern is similar to Cubic, but the middle section of your 3D prints is hollow. Compared to Cubic, this pattern saves material and time to 3D print the model, and it is ideal for large-volume 3D prints as it helps to improve strength-to-weight ratios.
The Octet infill pattern is another pattern that creates a strong internal structure in the design. It is made up of interconnected octagons in a cross-hatched pattern. It is efficient with the amount of material used as there are spaces left in the design, and it is also time-efficient to print.
In many cases, even 10% infill with a Cubic infill pattern works pretty well for strength. Gyroid is another infill pattern that is known to perform well at low infill densities, but it isn’t a very strong infill pattern overall. It is better for flexible filament and when you might use a dissolvable filament.
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Anneal the plastic
Annealing is a process of increasing the temperature of an object to improve its firmness, tensile strength, and heat resistance. It involves heating an object to a temperature at which its molecules are able to rearrange, making its structure firmer and more stable.
Annealing 3D-printed plastic parts can make them stronger and more temperature resistant. The process involves heating the plastic to a high enough temperature to allow its amorphous structure to change and morph into a much stronger, crystalline structure. This “reorienting and repositioning” of the crystals will cause the printed part to shrink and grow slightly. Parts tend to shrink in the X and Y dimensions but grow slightly taller in the Z dimension.
To anneal your 3D-printed plastic parts, you can use one of two methods. The first method is to use a hot air oven. Preheat your oven to the desired temperature, usually between 80°C and 130°C, and let it hold the temperature for about 10 minutes. Then, place your printed parts on a tray and leave them in the oven for 6 to 30 minutes. After the set time, turn off the oven but do not open the door. Let the parts cool down slowly for 5 to 10 minutes before removing them from the oven. You may notice that your parts have shrunk or changed shape slightly, so you may need to reprint them to account for the shrinkage and growth.
The second method is to encase the printed part in heated sand. First, find an oven-safe container that is larger than your 3D-printed part and add a couple of inches of fine sand to the bottom. Place your part on top of the sand and gently pour sand all around it, making sure it fills all the voids. By adding sand, you support your printed part on all sides, reducing warping or shrinkage. Then, follow the same heating instructions as in the first method.
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Use acetone to bond fibreglass to ABS
To reinforce ABS plastic in 3D printing, you can use acetone to bond fibreglass to it. This method can be used to reinforce the structure of 3D-printed model rockets, for example.
Firstly, prepare the surface by ensuring there is no debris or grease on it. Smooth out any uneven areas with sandpaper. Then, apply a thin layer of acetone to the ABS plastic with a brush or a piece of cloth. Acetone is highly volatile, so keep it away from sparks, hot surfaces, and open flames. It would be best to work outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Once the acetone is applied, the solvent will melt the top layer of the plastic. At this point, push a layer of fibreglass onto the melted top layer. The plastic will partially impregnate the glass. When the solvent evaporates, the fibreglass will be bonded strongly to the plastic.
Note that acetone will weaken thin ABS plastic greatly until it diffuses out of the part. It may also create a smooth surface, which could result in a poor bond.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several ways to reinforce your plastic ABS 3D printing. You can increase the wall thickness, use an infill pattern built for strength, or use annealing to increase the temperature for strengthening.
The minimum wall thickness should be 1.2mm, but for more strength, you can go higher.
The Cubic (Honeycomb) pattern is a good option for strength, as is the Triangle pattern.
Annealing is a method that increases the temperature of 3D prints to strengthen them. It causes an amorphous structure to reorganise into a crystalline form, which makes the print stronger.
Yes, you can use a solvent like acetone to bond a layer of fiberglass to your print, which will increase its strength. You can also use epoxy resin and fiberglass fabric to reinforce your print.
