Alexei Volkov
Replacing a plastic water valve is a relatively simple task that can be completed in a few hours. Before beginning, it is important to identify the type of valve you are working with, such as a ball valve, gate valve, or shut-off valve, as well as the connection type, which could be threaded, soldered, or compression-fitted. Once you have identified the type of valve and connection, you can gather the necessary tools and follow the specific steps for that type of valve replacement. The basic process involves shutting off the water supply, draining the pipes, removing the old valve, and installing the new valve, ensuring a watertight seal.
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What You'll Learn
Identify the type of valve connection
Identifying the type of valve connection is crucial to ensure optimal valve and system performance. There are several types of valve connections, each with its own advantages and considerations:
Threaded connections are one of the most common types of valve connections. They provide a compact and streamlined connection between the valve and the pipe. Threaded connections can be either female or male, and it is important to ensure that the valve and pipe adhere to the same standard to create a proper connection. Tapered threads form a fluid-tight seal without the need for an o-ring or flat washer, while straight threads require a soft seal.
Welded connections are commonly used in piping systems, particularly in high-pressure and high-temperature operations such as power plants and chemical plants. Butt welded connections are often used in these applications, while socket welded connections are more common in small-bore pipework and low-pressure systems. Welding creates a permanent bond and is known for its high strength and reliability.
Compression fittings are another type of valve connection, which provide a tight seal by applying a compressive force to hold the component ends together. Compression fittings typically include a compression nut and a ferrule, ring, or sleeve that is installed over the pipe. Metallic and plastic compression connections are available, making them versatile.
Flange connections are also used in valve applications and can improve system design and operation. Understanding the specifics of each type of connection can help in selecting the most suitable connection for your specific application.
Additionally, when identifying the type of valve connection, it is important to consider the overall context of the valve's usage. Factors such as the size of the valve, the flow rate, the pressure and temperature ratings, and the desired level of safety and reliability all play a role in determining the best valve connection type.
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Shut off the water supply
Shutting off the water supply is the first step when replacing a plastic water valve. This is done to drain the existing water pressure in the pipes. If you are working on a hot water supply line, turn the gas water heater to the pilot setting and turn off electric water heaters.
The next step is to identify the type of connection used in your home. If you have an older home with galvanized pipes, it is recommended to hire a plumber to do the switch. If your home is plumbed with PEX or plastic pipe, some instructions may not apply.
After identifying the connection type, you can determine the best method to shut off the water supply. There are three basic options:
- SharkBite valve: This method is suitable for novice DIYers.
- Compression valve: This method is also suitable for novice DIYers.
- Traditional soldering or the ProPress method: This method is more advanced and may be better suited for plumbers or experienced DIYers.
Once you have chosen the appropriate method, follow the specific steps for shutting off the water supply. For example, if you are using a compression valve, you will need to hand-tighten the nut onto the valve, ensuring it slides squarely and snugly over the ferrule/compression ring.
It is important to note that you should not overtighten the nut, as this can lead to over-compression of the ferrule. These steps will vary depending on the specific type of connection and valve you are working with.
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Remove the old valve
To remove the old valve, start by shutting off the water supply. If you are working on a hot water supply line, turn the gas water heater to the pilot setting and switch off electric water heaters.
Next, open the faucet to drain the remaining water from the line. Place a bucket under the old valve to catch any water that flows out.
Now, determine the type of valve connection. If it is a threaded connection, you will see visible threads where the fitting connects to the pipe. The pipe will be made of copper or galvanized material. For a solder-type valve, you will notice discoloured pipes and fittings. A compression-type valve will have a compression nut that fits around the pipe.
If you have a threaded or solder-type valve, cut the supply line with a pipe cutter, leaving enough room for the new valve fitting. If there isn't much space to cut, heat the fitting with a propane torch until it's loose. Protect any flammable surfaces with a heat shield.
Once the connection is loosened, pull the valve off the pipe, gently twisting it with a pair of pliers if necessary. For a compression-type valve, loosen the compression nut with an adjustable wrench. Use a second wrench to steady the valve if it turns with the nut. Push the nut away from the ferrule, then cut the ferrule with a hacksaw.
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Prepare the pipe for a new valve
Before starting any plumbing work, it is important to prioritise safety and use the right tools and materials. The first step is to turn off the main water supply to avoid accidental flooding or water wastage during the installation process. If working on a hot water supply line, turn the gas water heater to the pilot setting and turn off electric water heaters. Open the faucet to drain the line and place a bucket under the old valve.
Next, determine how the valve is connected to the pipe. It may be connected using solder, a compression fitting, or a threaded fitting. Soldered connections are often marked by discoloured pipes and fittings, while threaded connections are marked by visible threads where the fitting connects to the pipe. Compression-type valves can be identified by a compression nut.
If the valve is a solder-type valve, cut the supply line with a pipe cutter, leaving enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to allow for installation of the new valve fitting. Deburr the pipe with a deburring tool. If there is not much room to make a cut, heat the fitting with a propane torch until it is loose. Protect any flammable surfaces with a heat shield and pull the valve off the pipe, gently twisting it with a pair of pliers.
If the valve is a compression-type valve, loosen the compression nut with an adjustable wrench. Use a second wrench to steady the valve if it turns with the nut. Push the nut away from the ferrule and cut the ferrule with a hacksaw.
If the valve is a threaded-type valve, simply unscrew it from the pipe.
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Install the new valve
Before installing a new valve, it is important to determine the type of connection used in your home. If you have an older home with galvanized pipes, it is recommended to hire a plumber to replace the valve. If your home is plumbed with PEX or plastic pipes, different instructions may apply.
If you are installing a compression-style valve, thread the valve into the compression. Ensure that it slides squarely and snugly over the ferrule/compression ring. Hand-tighten the nut onto the valve. Finish tightening the nut using one adjustable wrench to hold the valve squarely and another to turn the nut. Do not overtighten the nut, as this will over-compress the ferrule.
If installing a threaded valve, thread the valve onto the pipe and hand-tighten. Use a pipe wrench to secure the pipe and tighten the valve using an adjustable wrench. Do not over-tighten, as this could crack the valve or damage the threads.
If you are installing a SharkBite valve, you will need to compress the plastic piece on the end of the SharkBite to release the teeth that are gripping the pipe. With the pipe fully in the valve, tighten the nut onto the valve over the ferrule, pressing the ferrule together with the pipe to create a water-tight connection.
If you are installing a sweat valve, you will need a torch, flux, solder, emery cloth, wire brushes, and a flame protection cloth to shield the wall. Clean and flux the end of the stub-out pipe and the inside of the fitting using a sand cloth, open mesh, or emery pad with paste flux. Push the valve onto the pipe, then align the valve so the outlet is facing the end connection point. Finally, apply heat and solder. Do not move the valve until the solder connection has hardened.
Once the new valve is installed, turn on the main water supply and open the newly installed valves. Let the water flow through the faucet to clear air from the lines. Check for leaks by feeling the fittings by hand or using a paper towel. Tighten as necessary.
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Frequently asked questions
If the valve is not operating correctly, you may need to replace it. Check if the valve is stuck, leaking fluid, corroded, or overheating. If you notice leaking while opening or closing the valve stem, you can try tightening the packing nut with pliers.
There are a few options for replacing a plastic water valve. You can use a SharkBite valve, a compression valve, or traditional soldering or the ProPress method. If you are a novice DIYer, the SharkBite or compression valve methods may be best.
The tools you need will depend on the type of valve you are installing. For a compression-style valve, you will need an adjustable wrench. For a threaded connection, you will need a pipe wrench. For a sweat valve, you will need a torch, flux, solder, emery cloth, wire brushes, and a flame protection cloth.
First, shut off the water supply and open a faucet to drain the line. Place a bucket under the old valve and remove it. Install the new valve by threading it into the compression or onto the pipe, depending on the type of valve. Hand-tighten the nut onto the valve, then finish tightening with an adjustable wrench. Do not overtighten. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.
