Sofia Martinez
Threading plastic into a printer can be done in several ways, each with its own pros and cons. One common method is to use threaded inserts, which are small metal pieces that are melted into the plastic to create a strong bond. This can be done with a soldering iron, being careful not to overheat the plastic. Another method is to use self-tapping screws, which can be screwed directly into the plastic without any pre-drilling. For lower-volume applications, hand-tapping after printing is also an option, though it may not be as strong as using threaded inserts. The success of these methods will depend on the type of printer and plastic being used, as well as the desired strength of the connection.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of printer | FDM 3D printer |
| Type of insert | Heat-set threaded inserts |
| Insert material | Metal, commonly brass |
| Insert shape | Tapered |
| Insert installation | Melted with a soldering iron and pressed into the part |
| Plastic type | Thermoplastic |
| Plastic layers | 5 layers at 0.4mm (2mm total) |
| Plastic depth | Greater than the length of the insert |
| Soldering iron temperature | Melting point of the plastic |
| Soldering iron maintenance | Cleaned and tinned |
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What You'll Learn
Using heat-set inserts
Heat-set threaded inserts are perfect for thermoplastics in 3D printing. Metal threaded inserts provide a surefire fastening method for plastic parts. Threaded inserts are commonly made of brass with a pre-formed thread within them. They resist pull-out and torque-out loads with knurled external surface features designed to interface with the bulk material of the larger part.
Heat-set inserts are suitable for virtually all thermoplastics, that is, all materials that you use on an FDM 3D printer. When using heat-set inserts, the thermoplastic melts and reflows around the insert, making the plastic surrounding the insert locally stronger and establishing a secure bond between the metal insert and the thermoplastic. This in turn ensures a much stronger pull-out and torque-out rating of the resulting thread compared to other types of inserts.
To install heat-set threaded inserts, you will need a soldering iron, a screwdriver or tweezers, and a few other inexpensive tools. Before beginning, ensure that your soldering iron is properly cleaned and tinned so that nothing catches on the inner threads. Set your iron to the melting point of the plastic you're using, but avoid going higher than the maximum temperature for that material if possible. Larger inserts may take longer to heat up before they sink into the part. Once the insert exceeds the plastic melt temperature, it will start to descend into the part. Be careful to push the insert down straight into the hole, not at an angle. Keep the iron on the insert and ensure that it is flush with the top of your part before you extract the iron.
After embedding all the inserts, let them cool for a few minutes before use so that the plastic has time to set. You can also use this time to adjust any inserts with the iron if they have not seated correctly. Since threaded inserts store heat, you can still press them the rest of the way into the component with a tool such as a screwdriver or tweezers. It is recommended to melt the inserts only to about 90% of the depth with the soldering iron tip and do the last, short way with a tool.
For PLA, use a temperature of around 225 °C, for PETG 245 °C, and for ABS 265 °C. Since not every material is the same, the values may vary slightly. If you are using a regular soldering iron tip, press the insert in with the side of the tip rather than the point. For large inserts, you may not be able to get enough heat into the threaded insert quickly enough, making the installation process difficult.
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Tapping threads
To tap threads in plastic, start by drilling the correct-sized hole into the plastic to the right depth using a metal drill bit. Place the end of the tap into the drilled hole, ensuring it is at a 90-degree angle to the surface of the plastic. Then, turn the tap handle slowly clockwise a quarter turn, and then turn it counterclockwise to remove plastic shavings. Continue alternating between turning the tap clockwise and counterclockwise until the entire hole has been threaded. Finally, remove the tap by turning it counterclockwise and wipe away any remaining plastic shavings.
It is worth noting that tapped threads in plastic are easy to overload and strip out. For smaller screws, it may be preferable to use the screw itself to form its own threads as you drive it in, as this can provide a tighter and more secure fit. Additionally, if you need to hold a bolt that carries a load, you can create a nut trap by making a hexagonal cutout in the model and press-fitting a nut into the cutout.
For 3D printing, heat-set inserts are recommended. These are commonly made of brass and have a pre-formed thread within them. They are perfect for thermoplastics because the plastic melts and reflows around the insert during installation, creating a secure bond. To install heat-set inserts, use a soldering iron to heat the plastic to its melting point, being careful not to exceed the maximum temperature to avoid deforming the plastic. Then, press the insert into the plastic, where it will cool and lock itself into place.
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Using a self-tapping screw
Self-tapping screws are a common method for threading plastic into a printer. They are an economical method of joining two plastics or metals to plastic, and they allow for easy disassembly and reassembly. Self-tapping screws form or cut their threads when screwed into pre-drilled or moulded pilot holes in the plastic material.
There are two types of self-tapping screws: thread-forming and thread-cutting. Thread-forming screws deform the plastic material to flow around the screw threads, creating high internal stresses. The thread engagement and thread profile angle are crucial for this type of screw. Thread-cutting screws, on the other hand, have a sharp cutting edge that cuts into the plastic, forming a threaded joint. They produce reduced internal stresses compared to thread-forming screws, making them suitable for stiffer plastic materials.
When using self-tapping screws, it is important to select the appropriate screw type and size for your specific application and material. The thread profile angle and diameter of the screw should match the range of flexural modulus and tap drill size of the plastic hole, respectively. For smaller holes, the required torque to seat the screw increases, and there is a higher risk of the screw not seating properly or stripping the threads.
To convert a standard machine screw into a self-tapping screw, you can use a Dremel-type device to grind the end of the screw into a pointed shape. This allows the screw to self-centre and pull itself into the plastic hole. When screwing the self-tapping screw into the plastic, ensure that the walls of the hole are thick enough to withstand the depth of the thread to avoid breaking through.
Self-tapping screws are a convenient and effective method for threading plastic into a printer, offering a strong and secure connection.
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Metal threaded inserts
When installing metal threaded inserts, it is important to use a tapered cavity of a specific size. The insert vendor will typically provide recommended cavity dimensions. During installation, the insert will melt and displace some plastic from the surrounding part, so the taper allows the molten plastic to fully envelop the knurled surface of the insert. It is also important to ensure that the depth of the hole is greater than the length of the insert, with a hole for air to escape through. The print should have enough outer layers so that the insert is going into mostly solid plastic.
To install metal threaded inserts, a soldering iron can be used. It is important to set the iron to the melting point of the plastic being used, without exceeding the maximum temperature for that material. This can cause deformation or make the plastic too viscous, causing issues with the insert. For PLA, the recommended temperature is around 225 °C, while for PETG it is 245 °C, and for ABS, it is 265 °C. The soldering iron tip should transfer heat well into the brass, and special soldering tips can improve heat transfer.
After embedding the inserts, it is important to let them cool for a few minutes before use to allow the plastic to set. This also provides an opportunity to adjust any inserts that may not have seated correctly. The strength of the connection can be improved by placing the inserts on the opposite side of the part, so that when loaded, the taper of the insert meshes with the taper of the counterbore, distributing forces applied to the bolt.
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Hand-tapping plastic parts
When hand-tapping plastic parts, it is crucial to use the appropriate tools and techniques. Some common tools used for hand-tapping plastic include a soldering iron, pliers, and self-tapping screws. It is recommended to use a soldering iron set to the melting point of the plastic to heat the screw head while pushing it into place with pliers. This method helps to create a secure bond between the screw and the plastic.
Another technique is to use self-tapping screws, which are commonly used in plastic products. Self-tapping screws can either cut a thread path or deform the plastic to create a permanent thread. It is important to select the right type of screw based on the plastic's properties and the desired thread strength.
Additionally, when hand-tapping plastic, it is important to consider the thickness, length, and number of screw threads required for your specific application. Some plastics may expand during processing but then contract to their original size when tapped, so accurate measurements are crucial. It is also recommended to add chamfers into the hole before tapping to prevent tearing or cracking of the plastic.
While hand-tapping plastic parts is a viable method, it may be less efficient and more time-consuming than using a CNC machine for tapping. CNC machine tapping offers faster and more consistent results, especially for high-volume production. However, with the right tools and techniques, hand-tapping plastic parts can be a useful skill for creating threaded holes in plastic components.
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Frequently asked questions
Threaded inserts are commonly made of brass and have pre-formed threads within them. They are stronger and more wear-resistant than tapped or printed plastic threads, providing a better connection over time.
Heat-set threaded inserts are perfect for thermoplastics in 3D printing because the thermoplastic melts and reflows around the insert during installation. This makes the plastic surrounding the insert locally stronger and establishes a secure bond between the metal insert and the thermoplastic.
The insert is heated with a soldering iron and pressed into the part. The locally melted plastic flows around the insert to provide a robust grip once it cools. Make sure to set your iron to the melting point of the plastic you are using and clean your iron so that nothing catches on the inner threads.
Self-tapping screws can be inserted into a negative feature with no preparation work done to the part. Screwing directly into a 3D-printed part can also be preferable for speed and simplicity.
