Sofia Martinez
Tiling a plastic tub is a do-it-yourself project that can be accomplished in a few days. It requires some basic skills, the right tools, and a step-by-step guide. Before tiling a plastic tub, it is important to note that the typical movement of a plastic tub when filled with water or when a person steps in or out can cause tiles to crack or pop off the wall. To prevent this, it is recommended to use epoxy adhesives, which are designed to bond tiles to plastic surfaces, and to maintain a consistent gap between the tub and the tile to allow for expansion and movement. Additionally, a stable base and proper waterproofing are crucial for a successful tile installation.
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What You'll Learn
Preparing the surface
Tiling a plastic tub is a do-it-yourself project, as the flexibility of the plastic surface means that the average adhesive won't work. The only adhesive that will bond tiles to plastic is epoxy.
Before you start tiling, you must prepare the surface. First, ensure that your tub is level in all directions. This is important because if your tub is not level, the tiles will crack under the pressure exerted by the tub's edges pressing upwards. If your tub is not level, you can try to set it in a bucket of drywall mud or a bag of quickrete to minimise flexing.
Next, you will need to install a moisture barrier. One way to do this is to install plastic sheeting over the wall studs before mounting the concrete underlayment. Alternatively, you can use cement board, but note that this is not waterproof, so you will need to install a vapour barrier behind the cement board or use a paint-on vapour barrier on top of the cement board.
Once you have installed your moisture barrier, you will need to install a backer board. Cut the backer board to fit your tub surround, leaving a 1/4-inch gap at the bottom to prevent water wicking. You can use HardieBacker (cement board) or a CBU product like wonderboard.
Finally, you will need to mark your layout lines. Start by marking the first layout line at the vertical edge of the tile next to the tub. Then, follow the order shown in the diagram to snap the rest of the lines.
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Choosing the right adhesive
Epoxy is the only adhesive that will bond tile to a plastic surface. Liquid nails and epoxy adhesives allow for adhesion to plastic, and if your tub is rounded, use mosaics, pebbles, or other small tiles to wrap the curves.
Before applying the adhesive, ensure you have a stable and waterproof base. Install plastic sheeting over the wall studs to create a moisture barrier, then mount a concrete underlayment over the sheeting. This provides a solid base for the tile installation and protects the wall studs from moisture.
Additionally, consider using a backer board such as cement board or CBU (wonderboard) to provide stability and prevent tile shifting. The backer board should be cut to fit your tub, leaving a gap to prevent water wicking.
After installing the backer board, caulk the joint between the tub and the backer board with silicone caulking. This step is crucial to prevent water leakage and allow for expansion and contraction of the materials.
Once the proper underlayment and waterproofing are in place, you can proceed with applying the epoxy adhesive and setting your tiles. Remember to maintain consistent grout lines and leave space for caulk between the tile and the tub.
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Spacing and layout
Tiling a plastic tub is a do-it-yourself project that requires careful planning and execution to ensure a durable and aesthetically pleasing result. Here are some detailed instructions for spacing and layout:
Before starting the tiling process, it is crucial to prepare the area properly. This includes ensuring that the tub is level in all directions and creating a moisture barrier to prevent water damage. One way to achieve this is by installing a cement board or a CBU (wonderboard) product around the tub, which provides stability and prevents water penetration.
The layout of the tiles is an important consideration. Mark the first layout line at the vertical edge of the tile next to the tub. From there, set full tiles along this line, working outwards towards the end wall and down towards the tub in a stepped pattern. Ensure that the tiles are flush with the horizontal and vertical lines.
When tiling, it is essential to maintain consistent grout lines. Many tiles have nubs to keep the spacing even, but if your tiles don't, use plastic spacers to achieve uniform spacing. The width of the grout joints can be adjusted according to your preference.
Consider the size of your tiles and the length of your space to avoid ending up with thin tiles on the sides. Planning the layout beforehand helps ensure a pleasing design and reduces the need for cuts. If you have a basic tile design, such as a subway tile pattern, the project will be easier with fewer cuts.
For a tub surround, it is recommended to install the backer board and tile at least 12 inches above the tub. If you desire a high-end look, you can extend the tile all the way to the ceiling.
Additionally, remember to leave a gap of at least 1/8 inch around the perimeter of the tub where the underlayment meets the horizontal surface of the tub top. This gap is crucial for allowing movement and expansion, preventing tiles from cracking.
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Caulking and sealing
Caulking is an essential step in tiling a plastic tub to ensure a waterproof seal and prevent mould and mildew. Here is a step-by-step guide for caulking and sealing:
Surface Preparation:
Before caulking, it is crucial to prepare the surface by removing any old caulk or grout. Use a paint scraper, razor blade scraper, knife, or high-grit sandpaper to scrape and clean out the old material. Ensure that you clean the joint thoroughly, removing any mould or mildew with a bleach and water solution. Wipe the area with a damp cloth and allow it to dry completely.
Caulking Application:
Load the caulking gun with a high-quality tub and tile caulk, preferably with a colour that matches your grout. Apply the caulk at a 45-degree angle, keeping the tip of the caulking tube close to the surface. Slowly apply a smooth bead of sealant along the seam, ensuring you fill the gap completely. Do not create a large caulk ramp or bead; a thin pin-strip of caulk is sufficient.
Smoothing and Finishing:
Use an applicator tool or a plastic spoon to press the caulk into the seam and smooth it out. Avoid using your finger, as it can create a concave shape that takes longer to dry and may trap water. Create a straight finish with a 45-degree gradient to help the sealant dry faster and extend its longevity. Remove the painter's tape before the caulk dries to achieve clean, straight lines.
Sealing:
After caulking, you may consider applying a sealant to further enhance the waterproof barrier and protect against mould and mildew. However, it is essential to allow the caulk to cure first before applying any sealant. For the best results, use a sealant specifically designed for tile and bathroom surfaces, such as the 511 Impregnator sealant.
By following these steps for caulking and sealing, you can ensure a durable and long-lasting finish for your tiled plastic tub.
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Waterproofing
Firstly, it is important to create a moisture barrier. This can be done by installing plastic sheeting over the wall studs before mounting the tile. This will protect the underlying materials and provide a stable base for the tile installation.
Next, you'll want to use a waterproof backer board. Cut the backer board to fit your tub surround, leaving a small gap at the bottom to prevent water wicking. This gap can be sealed with waterproof banding material or sealant and tape. For example, you can use products such as Redgard, Kerdi-fix, or Schluter.
After applying the waterproof membrane, you'll need to address the seams and screw holes to ensure they are also waterproof. Use self-adhesive backer board tape over all the seams and along the edges of the wall, around any windows, and inner corners. Then, apply mortar over the tape and seams, ensuring a smooth finish without any gaps or holes.
Additionally, consider using a latex additive with your grout to add elasticity and help accommodate the movement of the tub when it is filled with water or when someone steps in or out.
Finally, remember to caulk the joints where the tile meets the tub. Use silicone caulking or acrylic caulk that matches the colour of your tiles. This will not only provide a finished look but also help with waterproofing.
By following these steps, you can effectively waterproof your plastic tub before tiling, ensuring a durable and long-lasting installation.
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Frequently asked questions
Only epoxy will bond tile to a plastic surface, but you can also use liquid nails and epoxy adhesives. Before you begin, ensure you have a moisture barrier in place. You can use plastic sheeting or cement board.
If your tiles don’t have nubs, use plastic spacers to maintain consistent grout lines. You may need to cut tiles to fit around corners, fixtures, and at the edges. Plan the cut by holding a full tile in place and marking where it overlaps the last full tile already on the wall.
The joint between the tub and the first row of tile should be caulked with 100% silicone. Fill the tub with water before caulking to allow for expansion and movement.
